Cruel-Merc

How much oil the SC takes? Should i empty it from oil first? Ill be using the gear oil i got from Mercedes Benz few months ago.

jkowtko

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...il-change.html

Cruel-Merc

Thanks jk

jkowtko

Over the last couple of months:

* Replaced cam magnets ... one was starting to leak again
* oil change, air filter
* power steering fluid change ... got rid of some shudder that was starting to develop
* New brakes & rotors ... Zimmerman drilled + Akebono ... nice
* replaced parking brake shoes & springs
* pulled valve cover, checked timing chain tension and replaced valve cover gasket.
* brake fluid flush today

dboyrusky

In the last 10k miles all DIY :
New
Oil change and filter x3 (Mbil1 0w40)
Air filter
Cabin filter
Spark plugs
Valve cover gaskets
Vacuum pump gaskets
Camshaft magnets
Engine and transmission mounts
Powersteering fluid change + Lubrizol additive
New continental contact as front tires
Transmission plug
Transmission fluid change +filter + gasket
Rear differential fluid change
New xenon headlight bulbs + new fog light
Clear marker lights
CXP tint 15% all around
New battery
Stereo upgrade + subwoofer
Lubricate sunroof with good MB paste))
Fuel filter

To do:
Transmission flush (maybe)
New chain tensioner (maybe chain if noise doesnt go away after tensioner change)
Rotors and brake pads (all around)
Brake flush and bleed
Switch to Mobil 1 5w40 Formula M oil
Coolant flush
New thermostat (maybe still not sure if current one failing)
Parking brake shoes
Fix footwell flaps (aac)
Super charger oil change /add
New rear tires
Rims repair (curb rash) or new rims
New speakers
New dual ac vent
New door handles
ECU and TCM flash update

slammer111

^ That's an awful lot of oil changes.

Car is currently at 184k km.

As for stuff done on my car in the past year, (mostly DIY)
- replaced leaky brake booster vacuum pump
- greased the sunroof with that liquid unicorn water and butter
- repaired driver's side IR sensor
- transmission (full) flush, filter change, replace leaky (V2) pilot bushing connector (to new V3). Actually quite easy with hoist access
- replaced defective control arm - old (2 years) one slid out of the bushing. Totally didn't see this one coming
- replaced EGR hose (cracked), vacuum lines from EGR hose to wherever (all the long pieces had cracks too)
- replaced spark plugs, compression test (dealer said I had compression problems, but a few tanks of Chevron (with Techron) later and the indie didn't find any problems)
- replaced serpentine belt (original belt still looked great, but might as well)
- had timing chain inspected (180k, ~4 degrees stretch), indie says to come back around 250k as it's not critically stretched (5-6 degrees is the upper limit before replacement is needed apparently; she looks at quite a few M271s)
- replaced (seized) alternator pulley

Future
- engine, transmission mounts
- differential fluid change
- replace (slightly leaky) rear main seal
- timing chain, tensioner
- alternator (any idea how long these last? Already replaced the VR once)

RWDlifer

Yup...too many
There is zero benefit to be gained from too frequent oil changes. All that hoopla we used to be sold about changing oil every 3 k miles was for the benefit of oil companies and those who make a living doing oil changes. A good synthetic oil will provide protection past 10k miles

Roger161

Car: 2005 C230 Sport Kompressor (Miles 146,000) : In the process of changing out motor mounts, tranny mount, thermostat housing ( due to a small leak from the front o-ring ), changing out two breather hoses underneath the intake manifold, and replacing all gaskets and o-rings that's linked to the intake manifold. Also, clean out the throttle body since it'll be off the engine. Lots of work ahead and looking forward to it for tomorrow. Hopefully, we'll get it done by Friday afternoon.

Other items done in the past:
- alternator
- serpentine belt
- both cam magnets
- various brake pad / rotor changes
- tranny fluid / filter / gasket
- fuel filter
- spark plugs
- coolent flush
- intake hose
- air filter and cabin filter
- various 5000 miles or up oil changes ( Mobil 1 synthetic )
- tires
- windshield washer pump
- windshield wipers
- driver side door handle

dboyrusky

I am aware unfortunately i have to comply with my warranty contract that requires 3k oil changes..

dboyrusky

I didnt know theres different versions of the transmission plug, i bought one recently and it looked identical to the old one but it wouldnt go in so i just used the old one with new seals..

180k miles or km? I checked my chain at 93k miles ~6 degree stretch, i was told that at 10 degree and higher replacement is needed.. Hows your gears?

dboyrusky

Whats your mileage? Any timing chain work /issues?

slammer111

MB is notorious for having several different versions of the same part. Good that they're continuously working out the kinks, but bad if one doesn't stay on top of things.

There are 3 versions of the pilot bushing, confirmed by my service records. V1 came with my car, V2 was installed under recall, and I found out about V3 when my indie noticed the connector was leaking and needed replacement (again). The newest one is part number A203-540-02-53. Not sure if the plastic part is exactly identical, but the O-rings are definitely different from previous versions. The rings can't be purchased separately, so might as well change out the entire assembly for a few bucks.

Mileage is in km (I'm in Canadaland ). Photos show my 4 degree offset, as well as the condition of the chain. Unfortunately I don't have a photo of the sprockets themselves (forgot to take one during all the excitement), but the indie said they were fine, and they did indeed look fine to me as well.

As mentioned before, my indie suggested replacement at 5-6 degrees. I really don't know what the maximum offset is, and really do not wish to find out firsthand. Maybe someone who has had their chain blow up on them can comment on this one.

Preet

how can you check the 5-6 degrees marks

slammer111

^ No worries, I didn't know how to do this either to be honest. My indie showed me how it was done. She earned my money that day.

In the 1st photo, the cam timing marks are lined up. Look for the triangle "arrow" (one for each cam, they're pointing "down"). The point of each arrow is pointing to a "line" on each sprocket. The lines are tiny but visible in the photo. Once those are lined up, the 2nd photo shows the offset caused by chain stretch. (notice the marker on the engine block pointing to ~4 degrees on the harmonic balancer, which is the pulley with the markings).

While doing this, one should also check to see that the harmonic balancer doesn't need replacement. This balancer is made of 2 major components (the outer ring and the inner part with the spokes), with a rubber layer in between that joins that joins the two. If the ring spins around freely while the engine is off, the balancer needs replacement. If the offset is at some wacky angle (say 50 degrees), then it's obviously broken. But by coincidence it might happen to be lined up when inspected.

tjts1

I really don't like the 4 spoke steering wheel on my C320 wagon so I replaced it with the 3 spoke wheel from an early C230. The spokes are too fat with a sharp edge right where your thumbs go over and then the button placement is just dumb. Also the leather at the top was falling apart.

Before


Side by side. I know they're trying to match the interior but the grey steering wheel is ugly.


With used steering wheels and airbags all over ebay these days, I think this is one of the best bang for your buck upgrades you can make to a pre 2005 C240 or C320. The whole thing cost me $90. All the buttons work perfectly and everything was plug and play. The 3 spoke steering wheel was an option on the early sedans and wagons outside the United States. Mercedes just didn't offer it here.


One last point. This is NOT a Takata airbag. Both airbags were manufactured by "Autoliv". The W203 Takata airbags were 05 and up which aren't compatible with early cars AFIK.

EDIT: Moderators, make this thread a sticky. It would encourage contributions and could become as a useful reference.

jkowtko

Replaced the water pump yesterday. At 132k miles it wasn't leaking, but it had a very slight amount of play in the bearings, so better to be proactive than have the car run out of coolant on the road. Psychologically the engine feels a bit smoother now

I am on a quest to eliminate the bearing noises coming from the front of the engine. Although not loud, I can still hear them.

The AC compressor pulley clearly has some play in it (movie clip attached), and the PS pump also has the slightest amount of play. Those two are up next.

The alternator still feels solid and smooth, as does the supercharger snout pulley despite the noise coming from the compressor blades in the main body (so SC is on the list as well).

Tension pulley has been replaced once but if I can remove that rear bolt when the AC compressor is out I will replace that again at the same time.

VVF

Hey John,

How intricate/long was the water pump replacement for you? I've been postponing that one forever now

Also, what sound do you hear from supercharger and which area of the engine?
I have like a scraping sound, but cannot really pinpoint the source.
Belt off would at least tell if it's in the engine or an 'accessory', but been to lazy to test that

jkowtko

I added a new thread here for the DIY: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post7192737

The supercharger sound to me is like a whine from a high frequency rubbing/scraping of the blades. So the engine has a bit of a whine to it that is RPM dependent.

There is another sound like a "scratch" that I get about once every time the belt makes a full revolution. I looked at the belt and can't see anything on it ... it's also fairly new.

Since the car is 12 years old and over 100k miles, I figure if these engines are supposed to last 200k+, might as well replace everything I can on it, spend maybe $2-3k, and expect another 10 years out of it?

VVF

Cool, thanks.
Ok.. my sound is different. Might be vacuum pump even. Too many sounds all around the engine bay

I think these engines are starting to get cheap at junkyards. The issue is - who knows how they were maintained. But perhaps a nice low-mileage SC can be had from a junkyard.

Since the car is 12 years old -- is it not time to upgrade soon? I am unsure if I should just drive it as is for another couple years (with regular maint+whatever pops up needing immediate attention) and then get something newer, or start 'fixing'/prev-maint stuff and keep driving for another 5-7 years...
Just refreshed the whole front end about 8mo ago.

jkowtko

I would have upgraded this car at 80-90k before I started doing all these DIYs, if I had liked the new body styles. But I like the w203 over the w204/w205 so I decided to keep my current car and work with it. If a future model comes out that I like I would consider upgrading then.

In the meantime I will assume that I am keeping this car for another 10 years, which justifies replacing all major components with new parts, even MB genuine parts when appropriate.

But I agree with you, that if you are going to keep the car for only a few years more, just replace as needed. I brought the car to a local MB mechanic who is a really nice guy and doesn't pressure you to give him business. He had high praise for the w203s and said the w204s are built even better. He said these are great commuter cars, and the most cost effective way to deal with them is to replace parts as they go out. He said you shouldn't have sudden unnanounced catastrophic failures with these cars ... there should be plenty of warning in terms of noises from the engine or the check engine lights going on.

(Btw he was not a fan of the new FWD models -- he thought the parts are getting cheap and said better to get Japanese as their FWD is tried and true.)