maro112

Hey,
I got this code p0522 which means "diagnosis of tumble flap (intake manifold). Open circuit of sensor lines / tumble flap shafts stick in the nonactuated position. (P2006)"
My mechanic is going to check it up. Any suggest?
Most often I have a "check engine" light on but sometimes it dissapears for 1-2 days and then again it's on. I DON'T feel any power loose.
Any now, since it's been pretty cold outside ~0°C it is really hard to start up the engine. It starts ONLY if I am hitting gas pedal and it takes anyway 1-3s so it is not normal. Without gas pedal I can keep the ignition on all day long but it will never start. Also, if I have a bigger problem with starting the car even with hitting the gas - there is much smoke from the exhaust when car is finally running.

Is it a p0522 fault? Or we have to check up something else also?

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Hello,

Whatever happened with this? I'm getting the same code, along with a couple of others. Seems like it could be several or at least a couple of different issues.

Thanks,
Mike

MBENZTECH

Just replace the intake manifold assembly. You can find new units online made by PIERBURG, which is the original company that makes them fro mercedes.

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Why not just replace this part? http://www.agatools.com/part/mercede...throttle-lever

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Never mind... I see the manifold has plastic pieces all inside and outside of it. Better to just replace the entire thing. I'm ordering from FCPEuro this afternoon.

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Okay, new development... I pulled the plastic covers off of the engine just now and took a peek down the front of the intake manifold to see what the damage is before I order a replacement. Low and behold, the lever is not broken at all! But the arm going to that middle connector on the lever, the one that drives the whole mechanism, has popped off of the ball joint. I could move the lever around by manipulating the smaller lever that controls the plastic flaps on the passenger side of the engine, but I could not get that arm to pop back on. First of all, the arm would have to come up about a half inch, but it's spring loaded. I couldn't find a tool that would both fit in the tiny slit of space in there and could also grip the arm with enough force to pull it up and hold it in place.

So, here's what I'm thinking... I still need to pull out the damn intake manifold to get that ******* on there (I mean, I could probably take it to a shop and see if they could do it, but that ball part on there looks pretty worn out), so I'm thinking that I go ahead and just replace that lever with the nice aluminum one that is referenced earlier in this post. When I have the manifold off I can tell if it looks like it is in bad shape, right? I mean, it's really clean under the hood (no leaky oil) and the flaps move freely and smoothly as they are right now. So, I"m thinking the manifold is probably okay.

How does that plan sound? I mean, worst case, the manifold does go south a few miles down the road... at least I've got experience with removing/replacing it already, and I can take off the fancy aluminum lever and put it on the new manifold.

OR

Should I just go down to the auto parts store and pick up a needle nose pliers with a slanted tip that would probably allow me to grab and move that arm and reattach it? That would be a super cheap fix, but I'm not sure how long that sucker will stay attached. As I said, it looks a little beat up.

Thanks for your input!


This arm popped off of the lever

RedGray

Dup post, see below.

RedGray

That's where to start.
You should also replace all of the vacuum actuators, since they've been know to have the arms break, and the ball-ends enlarge to fall off.
I strongly suggest getting them directly from a MB dealer, or get the OEM manufacturer parts.


This is the specific part/manufacturer that I suggest that you you buy:
https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/795...Kit-103K10152/
Mercedes-Benz Intake Manifold Repair Arm Kit - eEuro 103K10152
$76.23
Warranty: eEuroparts for Life [ info ]
SKU: 103K10152

Product Description
eEuroparts has developed a solution to the common failure point on the variable intake runner system on Mercedes Benz V6 and V8 engines. Often the cause of rough idle and CEL codes P2187 & P2189. The plastic actuator arm snaps, previously rendering the whole intake manifold useless. This repair kit includes an billet aluminum, CNC-machined lever arm and all metal retaining clamps and included shoulder bolt to make a lasting repair. Lifetime guarantee and made in the USA.





https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/1692...manifold-woes/

https://www.eeuroparts.com/blog/4486...ld-repair-diy/






Imho, the following are pure cr*p, do not buy!
The play in the metal side arms, because of the cheap pin and cotter-pin setup, can cause the end valves to vibrate/wiggle. That might break the flaps internally, and "boat-anchor" the engine after any flap pieces meet with the valves, piston, rings, etc.For 2006-2011 Mercedes-Benz SLK RK5858 Metal Intake Manifold Air Flap Runner Repair Kit w/Bearing & Arms Set 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011
by CF Advance
Dorman OE Solutions 615-905 Intake Manifold Repair Kit








The following graphic, has some good points:





Good Luck!

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Thank you for the info, @RedGray ! I have already ordered the machined aluminum part and gaskets from AGA Tools and it'll be here in a couple of days. I would love to replace the parts you mention, but am unable to find them on any OEM parts site. Specifically, I'd like to replace the one attached to this lever, which I've seen referred to in the documentation as the Swirl valve switchover diaphragm. Since the ball has already slipped off of the current lever, I'm wondering if it'll just do the same on a new lever. I would hate to have to remove the intake manifold twice in a short period of time.

This brings to mind a question... the complete manifold, brand new, would run me about $600. If I plan on keeping this vehicle for another 100,000 miles, at least, would it pay to just replace the entire manifold at this point? You're the second person to mention pieces of the plastic internal flaps breaking off and going into the engine, destroying it. I'm unsure what the life expectancy is of this intake manifold. Once removed, if I don't see a layer of motor oil inside of it, would that be a good indicator that there's lots of life left in it?

Thanks again for your input!

RedGray

Summary:
If it was my car, *I* would buy the new intake.
Since you will also have an better lever, *I* would also replace the lever.

Fwiw, I did buy a new intake for my M271 engine, with ~85K miles. But, my intake was cheaper. And, the intake was lined with oil, because the M271 has a supercharger (similar things happen with a turbo). And, I didn't want to "wash it out". When I did the timing chain as maintenance, I put on a new cylinder head, new supercharger, got professional porting for the super charger, new inter-cooler, new header, etc, etc. So, I wasn't going to put on a dirty, or semi-dirty intake, on my nice clean air intake path.
So, yes, I do put my money where my mouth is.
And, like you, I plan on having my Super Sexy Red Coupe 2005 C230K for a long long time.
My Mustang is over 30 years young. And, now shares being driven on good Spring/Summer/Autumn days with the C230K.




More Details
It's hard to say if the internal flaps may break. Some of the issues are the materials, quailty, and design of the parts.


================
Trying not to get on a soapbox, and a long discussion....
It's 100% possible to design a variable length intake that will last a very long time. Toyota and Honda have been doing it for a long time.

Starting around the year 2000, MB made the decision to be "more like GM" in the design of it's cars. Specifically, the parts are purposely reduced to save cost.
Every part/sub-assembly, etc, has cost/reliability values/ranks. In general, many parts are designed to last between roughly 70,000miles/7years and 120,000miles/12 years.

Make no mistake at all. MB knows very well the parts that are likely to fail, and their rough failure rate.
The business targets buyers that are going to trade-in/sell their vehicle before the warranty expires.

There have been many professional articles/publications about MB and GM over the years (and most other vehicle manufactures).
Again, this is a business decision.
I am not a blind fan boy of any manufacture. Far from it.
I most often work on very high reliability "items".
However, I also have worked on items, where the reliability was "pretty good", but not anywhere near great. Imho, many cell phones are in the "pretty good, but not great area".
It all comes down to the market for each item, and the requirements.
================


So, given the above, we know from experience, that the lever and the actuators are "under designed" for a long use vehicle.
In MB engineering and management, that will come to no surprise of anyone that worked on, or was familiar with, that assembly.

***
But, we, the public, as of 01/2018, do not know if the reliability of the inside flaps should be a cause of concern for an older engine, or an engine with a lot of miles.
***

We also know from the M271 POS timing chain, the POS M272 balance shaft, and a few other engines, that MB is willing to risk critically damaging an engine, to save money on some parts.
Fwiw, GM has been doing that since the early 80's. GM went bankrupt for many reasons. A big one was because every division had at least one engine that was a flaming POS. And, imho, not much has changed. Imho, GM relies heavily on "there's a sucker born ever minute".
Fwiw, since I was 17, I've owned at least two GMs at the same time. I now own three GM cars. But, like my 2005 C230, I know their weak areas, and I can fix them (or, I'm willing to pay for a replacement to be done - like maybe a tranny, if I don't feel like screwing around doing another tranny replacement).


So, the point of all of the above, is that I can not honestly say that the internal flaps will not break apart.
My guess, is that since *I* haven't read about any such failures yet, it maybe unlikely?
But, that is assuming that the internal flaps are fully controlled, and not banging around because of a broken linkage or poor linkage design.


Fwiw:
Imho, I think that a new MB may be a good choice for someone that wants a new car, and is going to get rid of it, before the warranty expires. And, the same is true for anyone that was looking back on 2001.

Imho, if someone has the mechanical ability, an older MB, or a GM, may be a reasonable choice.


Fwiw, I don't just play engineer on the interweb. I've been a Principal+ level engineer since the 90's. And, I taught engineering for a few years.


I hope that answered your question.
I don't play favorites with any design or vehicle. In real life, there are always trade-offs. And, at the same time, there are real people behind any product. Real people may make bad/stupid/best-only-for-themselves decisions.

Good Luck.

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Dang @RedGray that was quite the post! Ha! Thanks for the info. I was thinking about this last night while I was trying to go to sleep and I came to the same conclusion... I've never actually heard of anyone having pieces break off of anything inside of this manifold and destroying their engine. Only that "it's a possibility". So, based on that, I'm going to just replace the lever. If the inside of the manifold is all oily, I'll replace the oil separator and probably the entire intake manifold. This is on the assumption that prolonged contact with motor oil will weaken the plastic parts. Again... just an assumption, but as I plan on keeping this vehicle for many years, it's probably worth the $600 investment.

Thanks again!

C230 Sport Coup

Damn manifolds are junk. Just replace it.
Yes, you can fix one thing at a time, but flaps inside are made out of
potato chips and get sucked into engine and then the whole engine is fubar.
Your can get the Pierburg for ~500 or less.
We had to do balance shaft, and intake man on ML350 same engine, but 3,5L.
Intake was just shot! Flaps were fuuking gone...I mean gone...
holes in the damn thing...rods broken. Junk junk junk!
Compression test showed valves were ok and engine repairable.
Gawd knows where all that crap went.
Well, I mean it went right through the engine and then to who knows where.

Lucky we found a good former dealer mechanic trained on balance shaft who did
balance shaft and everything else while the engine was out for a fairly reasonable price.
Runs like a top now.

SeaMonkeyGLK350

Okay, we're finally looking to trade in our 2010 GLK 350 for a 2015 GLK 350 (my wife just really likes this body style). I'm pretty sure it's the same engine in the 2015 as it is in the 2010, but does anyone know if they did a better job with this while manifold flapper deal? I don't wanna have to do this again on a newer car. Ha!
TIA!
Mike