crappyc230

Ok guys this is my first post but I've been scouring this forum for months if not the past year. I slowly started removing interior from my car to install a huge stereo and have come across MANY obstacles so far. Most of them just being minor fixes that I've learned how to do here. Brake light switch, door switch, trunk release mechanism, 02 sensor, and the alt for starters. After putting my new head unit in the dash and wired up, I went to move my car and the key would not work anymore. I started with changing the batt in the remote and seemed like the fix. It let me use the central locking system again which was another thing that just got fixed but did not solve the ignition prob. I checked the battery and got 12.2 volts so its not that. The key is only 6 years old as I bought this one when the last one went out doing the same thing. The lights at the end of the key work when using a camera to see. I tried to take the key apart to see if the chip has a loose connection on the coil but it seemed to be glued together and I could not find a video to show me how to open it w/o breaking it.
After researching I have come up with 3 possible probs.

1) The key is bad. Only the part that makes the "handshake" with the ignition tho as the doors all work. $200 plus from the dealer
2) The EIS is bad---this especially worries me because if this will cost me several hundred dollars, I will not do it. The car is barely worth $1500 as is...and that's if it was able to start!!
3)The ESL is bad- I have no idea what this would cost to fix

Am I on the right track here? I also found some TSBs for my car which I also had one done for the leaking of oil on the main harness which i thot affected my 02 sensor. They fixed that pigtail connector for free but not my 02 sensor as they said it did not affect it. I found a TSB for the key and ignition but not much info on peopling using it to fix their ignition.
P-80_57-12 AUG 01 Smart Key(R) - Intermittently Inoperative
P-80_57-11 AUG 01 Ignition System - Electronic Ignition Switch Replacement

With my car sitting in the carport with windows stuck down, I have no way of even taking it to the dealer. They want $180 to diagnose if its not the TSB prob. $250 to tow it to them if I don't have them perform the work. This car is barely worth anything. I'm only holding on to it because I've invested a **** load of hours redoing the interior, running stereo wires, and laying sound dampener. I even put in insulation for the headliner I recovered. All that and one prob like this can ruin my project.

Do I just sell this thing for parts or what?? I'm beyond beaten down by this car. It's taken me to my wits end. It's recently smogged and runs great, just not right now. What should I do??

crappyc230

Today I found my old key and tried that but of course it did not work. I took it apart and ordered some new batts but wasn't worried about that as it doesn't need them to start the car. I noticed that my old key case had already been changed out once before. I have a 4 button chip (unlock, lock, trunk, panic) but it seems someone only used a 3 button case to replace it. Now I know why I never had trunk release from the remote. I ordered a new 4 button from ebay for $10 just to see if it works on the trunk. I blew out the old case and chip with compressed air and was surprised by the amount of lint, dust, and hair that was in it!! I could not see any cracks or foul marks around the welds or on the coil. The chip looked ok but I'm not sure what to look for. I reassembled w/o batts and tried it again. No luck but the filler flap made a noise and the center console lit up like it would with my newer key. It did not do this on the 1st attempt with my old key.

Now I took my newer key and tried again. Same as before, filler flap noise then console lights up but I can hear some clicking coming from the ignition. I did it 3 times to see if it was replicating and it was. it went click click short pause click click short pause click long pause click then noting. Not sure if this helps but I hope it might.

Any ideas from anyone would be greatly appreciated. I'm debating on purchasing a AAA roadside membership just to tow my car to MB instead of using their RA and getting nothing else from it at twice the cost. I'm also debating on getting a new key. $210(that's what I paid 6 years ago)doesn't seem that bad even tho I just spent $210 on a new OEM Bosch alt which I thot was crazy to find that cheap. But I guess if I order the new key and it doesn't work then I know its the EIS. Does that mean my 2nd key would still start the vehicle like it did before if the EIS gets replaced?

I've seen conflicting info on whether or not DIY is possible for the EIS. Do all the parts need replaced or can you only swap out what is bad? How would I know if its my ESL or not?

crappyc230

I just found this TSB a few mins ago. Does this mean I can get it replaced for free? It's exactly what would help me save this car I think lol

crappyc230

One more update if anyone is watching lol. I put in my newer key again a few more times tonight and got the headlights and entire dash to light up for a second instead of only the info screen. I'm wondering is that the EIS sensing the key for a split second?

C230 Sport Coup

1st rule of mechanics (according to father)- Don't force it
2nd unofficial rule from my many years as a field engineer- If a new problem crops up while performing a repair, ALWAYS GO BACK TO THE LAST THING YOU DID BEFORE IT BROKE.

Remove the head unit, restore to the state it was before the problem with the EIS started.
These cars are finicky, you must have nicked a canbus wire or something.

Good news is that there is someone out there who will change the chips in the EIS so you can
send yours and a used one, they swap the car specific stuff for a few bennies and save you a fortune,
you'd have to search on that, if it comes to that.

Also never ever disconnect the battery with the key in the EIS. Never.

C230 Sport Coup

Just read the TSB. It's for the dealers instructing them to perform an SDS diagnostic in a different fashion
than previously done, from 2008, and also some blah blah about how the paperwork must be submitted for them
to get paid on a warranty claim 10 years ago.
Pretty useless info. I'm sure SDS has been updated since then as well.
If you have iCarsoft you can read the codes from EIS.

crappyc230

That was the 1st thing I did was remove the HU. Played around with some wires that I tucked away but nothing happened. The original state was a bunch of wires pouring out of the dash and thats how it is again. It was only about 20 mins that I last inserted the key before it wouldn't work again. That was at the point where I had connected all the wires again and made sure it was all tucked away and began screwing the dash kit in.

I thot I remember seeing that somewhere about an EIS swap and it was a small company that was in GA? I was under the impression that only MB dealers could perform that kind of repair tho?

crappyc230

Yeah I was hoping it would help but it seems as just you described. I don't have a iCarsoft but I did read about them in other posts. Would I want the MBll version? Like this? I have cheapy ODBll scanner that works on it already but this one would give me more detailed info?

EDIT: I looked that up and wow that does do alot of stuff. I prob need this first before I buy anything or take it anywhere. It says it plugs into the OBDll port but does it need the key to be in the acc position to work? Have you used one on yours before?

C230 Sport Coup

I have the mbII. Not sure if you get anything more than the less expensive models. Just got it and only used it once, but clears srs which is great!

crappyc230

Does the key FOB need to be turned to acc position to work tho? I'd like to get it because I was never able to clear the SRS code since I bought the car. Just not sure in this situation if it would help immediately since I am not able to turn the key in my ignition. After I get thru this prob tho, I'm sure it will come in handy for only $160 shipped.

I'm kinda stuck right now deciding what action to take next. If the MBll works w/o needing to be in the acc position that I will buy that 1st to diagnose the EIS and key. If not, I might just get AAA and have it towed to the dealership for a diag.

If the EIS is faulty then I need to find the info on the company that will swap out parts inside with a used one. Does anyone remember this company? Was it from GA?

Newtome

I just sent my EIS to these guys. They just "rebuild" yours but keep the original vehicle coding. donnor EIS not required, It would be advantageous to have all new components, but more money to have MB just program a new one. As I have not got mine back yet, I can't comment on the quality of their work

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MERCEDES-BEN...-/152705110474

It seems that the proprietary software that MB uses to reprogram is becoming more readily available. That happened with Volvo and their chip key software, which some locksmiths now can reprogram.

crappyc230

Awesome man that looks like what I need! I read in the small print that they will test keys as well. I think I will remove my EIS and send them both. How long ago did you send yours in and did they give you any time frame for completion?

Did you make an offer or just buy it now?

C230 Sport Coup

Seems to me, before doing that, it would be prudent to get an SDS printout.

crappyc230

I guess I should just bite the bullet and have it towed to the dealer first. Hate having to use them but it seems the best way to figure out how to fix it w/o stabbing in the dimly lit darkness. I just paid for AAA membership to get my car towed there and back. Not bad for $185 including adding my daughter and gf for the whole year. I'll still have 2 more tows so well worth it.

crappyc230

I received my new key FOB case in the mail tonight. Put it together from my old key and viola...the trunk button works. I knew they sold me the wrong key based off what I found inside. The dealer parts guy told me I didn't have auto trunk release...on an 02 Merc?? Now I need a new key that has the 4 buttons when I get this thing fixed.

Newtome

230 Coup is of course correct! If you have access to diagnosis, that is far better than throwing money at guesses. I do not have a dealer nearby, the vehicle is not insured or registered, For $200 (make an offer) it is wroth it to me to eliminate the EIS and key as potential problems. My car also starts works correctly once in a while, so it is something intermittent, Intuitively to me that sounds like the EIS key interaction but i have no history with these cars and the electronics is akin to voodoo to me.

I should know in a week or so once the rebuilt EIS is reinstalled

crappyc230

That's the plan now. Just waiting the 2 days for the towing to kick into effect and then schedule a time at the dealer to drop it off and get checked out. It's less than 10 miles from me.

I hope the EIS fix works for you. Ihave a feeling it is only your key tho. Just like mine lol

C230 Sport Coup

I just noticed you are in Roseville.
I know a guy in Sunnyvale that rents out the SDS for a weekend, OR
he'll read the codes for you, (not practical in your case) OR just bite the bullet, buy the
iCarsoft before doing anything, see what that turns up, and then if it's still a mystery,
you could theoretically rent the SDS. The i980 is only like around 100 bucks, and seems to be as good as the MBII, not
really sure? Either way it's something you will want to have, if you plan to keep the vehicle, or own mercedes.
They are upgradable too, so it will always be able to read any year or model.
Comparison between models. Interesting. Well the i980 is fine for the w203 230.
The extra features aren't applicable. The brake retraction feature is cool, if I ever get
my E55, that would come in handy. But not needed on 203. And DPF whatever is for diesels.
Or ****.

OR buys his SDS, he wants to sell it, complete, but that's gonna be well over 500 bucks.
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts...564304917.html
I had him read my codes once, but of course I was able to drive there.
He's been trying to sell this thing for years!
I think the iCarsoft could've accomplished the same thing,but SDS gives more info.
Also see one in SF on craigslist.

OR find an indie mechanic, get the codes read. You'll never get the car away from those shysters.
You talking the dealership on Howe? Or I see there's a dealership in Rocklin now...
Which one are you thinking? I went to the one on Howe once, claimed they did work, I don't think they did, like I paid for a
trans service, but then 30K miles later it was like the tranny was failing, and I did a full flush myself and it was fixed.
Also sway bar bushings, but I have AMG parts and they listed the standard part numbers as replaced (under warranty).
Guess what was in there when I had the occasion too look? The AMG ones that I put in.
Replaced the AMG rear sway with the HR. Got rid of the understeer.

Also took the car to 3 different dealerships for ESP errors including Howe, kept coming back, until
I replaced the yaw sensor myself, once they became available on ebay for 30 bucks instead of
1000 at the dealership. They don't call 'em stealers for nothin'

I have an idea, get the iCarsoft, and read the codes before getting it read by SDS, don't clear anything, and give us a report if you
think the SDS was still necessary....that would be good info to have.
And then return it if it's not up to snuff?


The big difference is you can't do any programming with iCarsoft, it just reads and clears codes, but
it does pickup the Mercedes specific stuff..
That being said, I used it and one code was unknown.
I sussed it out myself, was the recirculating air valve for the SC.
Still way better than just OBD.
And way better (and cheaper) than the old Carsoft 7.4 which I have too....
what a PIA, and hacked software with viruses to boot.

crappyc230

I actually had the MBll on order last week but cancelled it due to it needing to be in the acc position to read anything. I looked at a PDF of the manual and it said they key needed to be turned on. Sooo I still want to buy it as I'm going to keep this car and maybe even buy another used Merc but it won't help immediately so I thot to save the money for something else.
The SDS is interesting as I have looked them up recently. I hear there is a steep learning curve to them tho? I'm sure I could get the hang of it after a few weeks of manual reading and fiddling. It would be a great investment and has me really contemplating on buying that instead of towing it to the dealer which yes would be in Rocklin. Its about 7 miles from me. I've been using that location for a few years now. Kinda pissed that they didn't have my purchase info on their computer when they sold me the wrong key at a cheaper price. Conveniently doesn't go back that far... Only looked at cars on the Howe spot. Plus...I just never trust the stealer. As you have clearly seen with your own car lol. I never think what they are telling me is honest for 1 and 2, not in my benefit. They give a good wash tho lol. Hmmm I will shoot that guy an email and see if this could work out. I'd feel much more comfortable spending $600 on a new machine than $200 at the dealer. So if looking at it from long term value stance, I would be using only paying about $250 more for the SDS than if I got the diag and MB ll. Plus the $90 I already paid for the roadside assistance but I needed that anyway.

What do you think about that plan? Get the SDS and figure it out. He said he can help the person learn the software which is good too. MB ll would be great but it won't work w/o the acc on.

C230 Sport Coup

So, read my EIS just now, check it out.... this is similar to what you might see if you could turn the key! Arrgh!
I wonder if I am close to a failure? One time error could be anything.
Had tons of undervoltage readings, cleared them.This doesn't give dates or times either.
Supposedly you can print using the USB port, but the instructions don't say how.
Dealer won't be able to read codes either without the key on FYI.

crappyc230

Damn I tried to look up that code but it had several different things not seeming to link together. I did see quite a bit about under voltage for that code tho. You don't have any probs with the EIS or key FOB?

Ok so wait...the stealer can't even access the data w/o my key on? So would the SDS even work either? How do they find out what's wrong?

crappyc230

I got word back from the guy selling the SDS and it also needs the key in the ACC position to work. Damn so it looks like my only option is to buy another key?? Dealer can't look at it either. Well at least I have a direction to go in now. I'll report what happens when I get the key.

MacVidMB-V8

Hold on to bad one, it may still be EIS.

And if it is bad, it can probably be fixed.

crappyc230

I've saved all my keys. I will have 3 now. I even have a spare mechanical key that I need to cut

crappyc230k

I think I'm having the same issue with the same year and model. The key no longer unlocks/locks/panic remotely, when I insert the key the electronics come on and somewhat work, however when I try to start it the car it doesn't crank or turn over. I'm also unable to move the car from park (pressing brake) to any other position. I've replaced the 2025 batteries and the red LED flashes when pressing a button so it seems to be charged. I've also purchased a new battery today just to be safe. Sorry for hijacking this thread but it seemed very similar. Thanks.