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Aftermarket Bodykit and Headlights Questions/Opinions
Hello,
So I am new to the Mercedes owners club. I just bought a 2005 C230 Kompressor for pretty cheap. Everything on it works great and it runs like a champ. However, the front bumper has some damage to it so rather than replacing it with the OEM bumper I was thinking of getting a body kit for it.
My main question was which body kit would look the best, so far from my searches these two kits look the nicest to me and also preserve the original look of the car while adding a little extra to the original: https://www.magnatuning.com/en/produ...03-A2-Body-Kit https://www.magnatuning.com/en/produ...Style-Body-Kit
My other question was if these headlights would work with this car: https://www.protuninglab.com/lhp-bw2...RoCGtgQAvD_BwE
It says it will not fit on HID models but I have no idea how to tell if I have an HID model or not. The reason I was thinking about upgrading the headlights is the current ones have that haze to them that make them look super old, as well as having the LED running lights would give this already clean car a nice modern touch.
Also thinking about this grill with the logo in the grill like the newer model to also give this beauty a facelift
I have that grill.
I think it does make the car look more up to date. I was aware of the information Red Gray shared with you before I bought my car. You do need to factor it into your decision making. If you are willing to DIY maintenance and repair work that will be an advantage.
Especially the link to Benzworld!
Also, read that whole thread. That's just one thread, of many just like it.
Yes, your car was cheap. That's because people that know used cars, know that it's a POS with the engine waiting to grenade!
Yeah I have definitely read a lot about the engines blowing and costing upwards of 7000 to fix which would be way out of my budget. Thankfully I have a friend who works as a mechanic and we hooked it up to a scanner and he checked the timing and everything was to spec which I would assume means the timing chain is still good.
The car has 175k miles on it so it already has a lot of miles on it and is still running well. Next, I gotta put it on the dyno and see how much the horespower has degraded. All in all the car seems to be in great mechanical shape except for the tie rods, they need to be replaced but I am not too worried about that. I also bought it from the second owner, and he did the proper maintenance on it, he gave me the log book, and a bunch of tips on the car.
Yeah I have definitely read a lot about the engines blowing and costing upwards of 7000 to fix which would be way out of my budget. Thankfully I have a friend who works as a mechanic and we hooked it up to a scanner and he checked the timing and everything was to spec which I would assume means the timing chain is still good.
The car has 175k miles on it so it already has a lot of miles on it and is still running well. Next, I gotta put it on the dyno and see how much the horespower has degraded. All in all the car seems to be in great mechanical shape except for the tie rods, they need to be replaced but I am not too worried about that. I also bought it from the second owner, and he did the proper maintenance on it, he gave me the log book, and a bunch of tips on the car.
That just means it hasn't failed yet and you're going to be sucker paying for it when it finally goes.
That just means it hasn't failed yet and you're going to be sucker paying for it when it finally goes.
I mean you are right eventually it will fail. Nothing lasts forever. But if it fails im only out 500 bucks so as long as it lasts me 6 months its worth it. However, i feel like it will last a bit longer than that
Yeah I have definitely read a lot about the engines blowing and costing upwards of 7000 to fix which would be way out of my budget. Thankfully I have a friend who works as a mechanic and we hooked it up to a scanner and he checked the timing and everything was to spec which I would assume means the timing chain is still good.
The car has 175k miles on it so it already has a lot of miles on it and is still running well. Next, I gotta put it on the dyno and see how much the horespower has degraded. All in all the car seems to be in great mechanical shape except for the tie rods, they need to be replaced but I am not too worried about that. I also bought it from the second owner, and he did the proper maintenance on it, he gave me the log book, and a bunch of tips on the car.
Fwiw, I actually like those headlights.
And, those body kits/etc are fine (to my tastes).
However, you're talking $$$ for those parts.
And, for ~$1000 (or much less - depending if DYI/etc) in preventative maintenance, you can have a car/engine that will be "fixable" and "typical repair costs" as far used cars that age go.
Note the ~$1000 is my rough guess for an independent. For a dealer, make that $2000++.
Specifically, for your 2005 C230 with an M271 engine, at a minimum,:
1) NEW TIMING CHAIN - period.
The timing chain is ~$30 (IWIS - same as MB).
For that many miles, also a new timing chain adjuster (~$50?)
2) New idler pulley
3) New Tensioner Pulley
4) Make sure you have the wiring extensions on the cam adjusters. They aren't expensive, if you don't have them.
With the preventative maintenance above, you then have "just the typical BS" of an older car.
EXCEPT for the intake valves getting carbon deposits from the Super Charger.
A proper mechanic-done intake valve cleaning is often less than $1000.
Some people take the chance, and take the added wear/stress, of using Seafoam.
The CAT is not cheap. But, they aren't cheap on many vehicles. Figure ~~$800-$1000.
Fwiw, the pulleys are cheap POS pulleys!
They are even cheaper cra*p that the cr*p that GM uses. That is bad!!
These cheap *ss pulleys have a tendency to just go - with very little or no warning.
If that happens, then a lot damage can happen in the engine bay.
Plus, no water pump or cooling.
The pulleys are not expensive.
But, they take time to replace. At ~$200+/hr for a Dealer, that's ~$400+ in just labor charges. Dealers charge a "fixed" rate for a part install. And, if the two+ parts share a lot of similar overhead time, then many Dealers will still charge the full time for each part (or do only a slight time reducing).
Fwiw, measuring timing chain stretch while it's installed on the car is semi-bs.
When independents/etc talk about looking at how much the cam adjusters are off, that's assuming that "going by what they've seen/heard", x-amount is "okay".
However, just like "no one ever had a bad vacation", if a timing chain did have less, then broke soon afterwards, "it's forgotten/ignored/lied-about".
To be fair to the independents, they are trying their best to look out for their customers. And, to not have their customers to repairs/maintenance too often.
If the adjuster is past ~85%max, the timing chain is junk - period. However, on just about every car/engine, it's hard/impossible to easily see/determine the adjuster position.
That's why most manufactures suggest timing belt/chain changes are specific mileage intervals.
Expect the timing chain and pulleys to last 70K+ miles.
Imho, if they get replaced at 70K miles, then there's no/very little worrying.
So, with the correct preventative maintenance, and typical maintenance (cats, sensors, alternators, and other BS) , these cars can last a very long time!
Fwiw, imho, putting any mods on the car while there is a good chance of significant engine damage (no preventative maintenance) is foolish.
People have been dumping these cars, because their mechanics have been warning them.
Or, there's a potential costly problem, and they dump the cars.
Iirc, you need to take off the bumper cover for the headlights. So, you may want to do those at the same time.
If you are referring to my headlights, those are OEM Bixenons that I bought from a wrecking yard. I also picked up a set of new covers on an auction site. Here's a picture of the car before I changed the grill and the lights. I'll let everyone else judge which look they prefer.
Regarding RedGray's comments and suggestions about the M271 engine - I agree.
However, each buyer has to decide for himself or herself which trade offs to accept in auto ownership. I bought a used 2006 Honda Civic (EX model with a 5 speed manual) for my daughter and I think it provides a fair benchmark to which to compare my 05 C230. The Honda is a good car and it is fairly fun to drive. It is also more economical to operate because it is achieves higher mileage and uses regular gas. The Honda does not handle as well as my C230, the ride isn't as comfortable and it is slower. The C230 is quieter and while the interior of the Honda is well constructed, the C230 interior is just better. To cite just one example, the leather-wrapped sport steering wheel in the C230 is one of the nicest I've used. I also prefer the styling of the C230, but that is subjective.
The low purchase cost of W203's does help compensate for the higher maintenance and repair costs but overall I expect to spend more per mile to operate the C230 than the Civic. To me, it is worth it. In JonnPhillip's case, he only spent $500 for his car, so his risk is minimal. If it was the last $500 he had, that would be another story, but it doesn't sound like he's too worried.
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