Washer pump won't work. Replace the combo switch?
Read the posts on pump system, replaced pump this morning, nothing. Checked the level switch, shows continuity with fluid in the reservoir. Checked the ground (brown wire) from pump to post ground up and inside motor compartment, five or six brown wires there, continuity. Had a continuous 10 volts or so across the pump connector, and when the switch was pushed, no change in voltage. Switch inside feels like it is functioning properly. No other electrical problems in the car system, so could it be the SAM. SAM sounds expensive!!
Washer pump won't work. Did everything that Todderrobert did before I found his post. Ran a jumper from battery to pump and pump works. Pump's Brown wire has continuity to negative battery cable. Tried to trace the White/violet wire with a toner and could not locate where the wire went to. Using a VOM, there is 11.0volts at the pump connector whether the vehicle is on or not and the combination switch has no effect on the 11,0v. voltage. Everything else on the combo switch works fine. After finding todderobert's post, I decided to stop looking for the problem. Can anyone confirm that replacing the combo switch sounds like the most likely solution to the washer pump not working?
Here’s a picture of the switch I replaced on my 2003 C230 showing the problem.
The job wasn’t too bad, just a little fiddly. Except the steering wheel nut—that was a bear. Had to buy a HF Earthquake XT electric impact wrench to get it off. Pneumatic impact, breakers bars, nothing would budge it.
My question is about the best troubleshooting steps to take to address the pump not working. In my case, the pump doesn't run when commanded but the wipers do work. Just as trout2000 did, I have 11V at the connector to the pump whether the vehicle is on/off or whether the pump is commanded on or not. If I jumper the pump directly to power it runs fine. Does anyone know of any other troubleshooting steps prior to tearing into the steering column and stalk switch wiring? It seems a little intimidating! Thanks!




See this thread for more information. Also make sure the steering wheel shroud has been modified. The dealer didn't do this during the 1st replacement, and the shroud eventually sliced through the wiring.

There's a good chance the clicky bits (the parts that keep the stalk in the signalling positions) are worn out by now. If this is the case, you might as well just replace the entire switch. The plastic parts wear very quickly on these things unfortunately. Personally I'm on my 3rd stalk.
As a reference, here are the PNs.
Pre facelift - A000-545-23-10
Facelifted - A203-545-03-10 (OP's PN has been superseded)
Last edited by slammer111; Sep 1, 2022 at 07:21 PM.
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My question is about the best troubleshooting steps to take to address the pump not working. In my case, the pump doesn't run when commanded but the wipers do work. Just as trout2000 did, I have 11V at the connector to the pump whether the vehicle is on/off or whether the pump is commanded on or not. If I jumper the pump directly to power it runs fine. Does anyone know of any other troubleshooting steps prior to tearing into the steering column and stalk switch wiring? It seems a little intimidating! Thanks!
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