trout2000

Originally Posted by todderobert View Post
Read the posts on pump system, replaced pump this morning, nothing. Checked the level switch, shows continuity with fluid in the reservoir. Checked the ground (brown wire) from pump to post ground up and inside motor compartment, five or six brown wires there, continuity. Had a continuous 10 volts or so across the pump connector, and when the switch was pushed, no change in voltage. Switch inside feels like it is functioning properly. No other electrical problems in the car system, so could it be the SAM. SAM sounds expensive!!

Washer pump won't work. Did everything that Todderrobert did before I found his post. Ran a jumper from battery to pump and pump works. Pump's Brown wire has continuity to negative battery cable. Tried to trace the White/violet wire with a toner and could not locate where the wire went to. Using a VOM, there is 11.0volts at the pump connector whether the vehicle is on or not and the combination switch has no effect on the 11,0v. voltage. Everything else on the combo switch works fine. After finding todderobert's post, I decided to stop looking for the problem. Can anyone confirm that replacing the combo switch sounds like the most likely solution to the washer pump not working?

5by5

Yes. It’s a common problem due to a design flaw in the switch. The wire breaks easily where it enters the stalk.

Here’s a picture of the switch I replaced on my 2003 C230 showing the problem.


The job wasn’t too bad, just a little fiddly. Except the steering wheel nut—that was a bear. Had to buy a HF Earthquake XT electric impact wrench to get it off. Pneumatic impact, breakers bars, nothing would budge it.

giannisae86

I had the same problem. Its an medium difficulty fix if you are diy guy. See a tutorial for the way to take out the switch. You should pay attention to the angle sensor. Take photos to rememeber how cables goes. Here are some photos from my repair

giannisae86

IMPORTANT TIP
Because its a litlle tricky to insert the three cables back, thought the switch, before you take off the last cable, tie with tape another cable to use it as a driver.

Z71Man

I wanted to give this thread a bump back from history as it's now my turn to deal with this problem. Thanks giannisae86 and 5by5 for the nice pictures to describe the steering column work.

My question is about the best troubleshooting steps to take to address the pump not working. In my case, the pump doesn't run when commanded but the wipers do work. Just as trout2000 did, I have 11V at the connector to the pump whether the vehicle is on/off or whether the pump is commanded on or not. If I jumper the pump directly to power it runs fine. Does anyone know of any other troubleshooting steps prior to tearing into the steering column and stalk switch wiring? It seems a little intimidating! Thanks!

slammer111

If the wire is broken, it's broken. To verify, you can physically see the snapped wire. Move the stalk into the R signal position.

See this thread for more information. Also make sure the steering wheel shroud has been modified. The dealer didn't do this during the 1st replacement, and the shroud eventually sliced through the wiring.

There's a good chance the clicky bits (the parts that keep the stalk in the signalling positions) are worn out by now. If this is the case, you might as well just replace the entire switch. The plastic parts wear very quickly on these things unfortunately. Personally I'm on my 3rd stalk.

As a reference, here are the PNs.

Pre facelift - A000-545-23-10
Facelifted - A203-545-03-10 (OP's PN has been superseded)

Z71Man

Thanks for the response. Looking into the little opening for the stalk. I can see the 3 wires coming out of the stalk and they don't look damaged. I even made a little wire hook to pull on each one of them and they didn't move. That doesn't prove they have connectivity, though. It seems like I'll just have to start pulling the column apart to find out for sure.

fizyxdude

Just replaced the washer pump on my 2006 C230. It's about $8 for the part on Amazon. I did notice that there was 11V at the connector when I pulled the old one off with key off, key on and pump switch both off and on. Tested old and new motor with battery voltage. New one worked, old one did not. Installed the new one and everything is good to go. I haven't looked at the circuit diagram, but it seems to be normal to have 11V at the pump.