C-Class (W203) 2001-2007, C160, C180, C200, C220, C230, C240, C270, C280, C300, C320, C230K, C350, Coupe

Spark plug change, use a metric tool set correct?

Old Aug 12, 2020 | 01:22 AM
  #1  
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2005 c230 kompressor
Spark plug change, use a metric tool set correct?

I have an SAE tool set in front of me, tried it for my 2005 c230k, when I lifted the engine cover, i saw these star like screws.It doesn't fit. I should get what's called a metric set correct? They're screwed on pretty tight, should I get a long bar ratchet or something like that for the leverage? I don't feel like spending a lot of money on power tools. There's a video of a guy that changed his spark plugs on his w203 here:


Unfortunately he's not as detailed as chrisfix, he uses powertools. Last I saw those are like 130 to 200 bucks.
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 04:47 AM
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You need an external Torx set. You may get away with using a hex socket if the torque required is very low, but anything more and you will round the bolt heads.

If you plan on keeping your car, this tool set is absolutely needed. 70% of the fasteners on the car use these bits, especially around the engine.

Last edited by slammer111; Aug 12, 2020 at 06:47 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 07:03 AM
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You will not need power tools.
I just added to a lengthy m271 post...
STF: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...nt-m271-3.html

You will need (as Slammer stated) a set of E Sockets to pull the coil packs. 1/4” drive, by hand.
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Old Aug 12, 2020 | 04:56 PM
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Thanks y'all, last night got myself e torx pack, set of 11. I read on that thread you needed an e8, so I bought the best set, best price that includes the e8. Will be waiting for it tomorrow.
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Old Aug 14, 2020 | 09:12 PM
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Ok, got the torx set, ratchet, unscrewed it, but I found out the new one is not as long as the old one. Will it still work? I have not installed it yet. Have a look at the pic:



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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 04:53 AM
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Definitely do not fit shorter ones. They are a certain length for a reason. If you were to take off your cylinder head the tip of the plug would just be showing. The shorter ones would be recessed so slowly damaging the exposed threads in the head.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 07:04 AM
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Please reference the link I provided in my previous post.
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Old Aug 15, 2020 | 04:45 PM
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Yea, I read through that thread through and through. Some folks go different types than the stock. Some swear by stock only. When I went on amazon, I typed my type of car, and then the ones I bought showed up. So I bought those. But looking at it now, i say f** it, not gonna put that in my car. I just bought the exact model number as what was in my mercedes, the bosh fr6mpp332. The one on amazon says double platinum, so that's considered great I'm thinkng.
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Old Aug 17, 2020 | 09:48 PM
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I just changed the spark plugs, now the car won't start. What do you all think can be the problem? It has to be the spark plugs because it worked before. Is it not tight enough? Wires not tight enough?
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 08:46 AM
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Does the car crank? If so, it's not an electrical problem.

The car should obviously just fire right up. If you have the time, start putting the old plugs back in one at a time.

Did you buy the plugs from a reputable source? (personally I wouldn't buy any critical parts from Amazon)

Last edited by slammer111; Aug 18, 2020 at 10:31 AM.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 10:09 AM
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Mine fired right up.
No hick ups.

Dealer plugs.
Visual inspection and offset vacuum before pulling old. (There was a stink bug in my 4th cylinder!) Tiny never seize on new threads. Install, compress washer, torque. Replace coil pack until firmly down, rebolt. Fire it up.
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 03:59 PM
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Ok, you won't believe it, but it was so simple. The battery was dead. Right after I changed the spark plugs, there you go. It starts now, but it still has the same problem. When I am stopped, whether at a light or just need to stop, the car is really shaky, wants to jump forward. Same thing with reverse, it is really shaky, wants to jump backwards. I ordered some new coils. I read your thread here, and the description sounds exactly like mines:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...converter.html
Your post # 2

Also this guy's description sounds exactly like mines as well: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...dle-drive.html

Post # 16

I seriously hope it's just this simple. The car still looks so pretty.





Originally Posted by slammer111
Does the car crank? If so, it's not an electrical problem.

The car should obviously just fire right up. If you have the time, start putting the old plugs back in one at a time.

Did you buy the plugs from a reputable source? (personally I wouldn't buy any critical parts from Amazon)
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Old Aug 18, 2020 | 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BF_JC230
Mine fired right up.
No hick ups.

Dealer plugs.
Visual inspection and offset vacuum before pulling old. (There was a stink bug in my 4th cylinder!) Tiny never seize on new threads. Install, compress washer, torque. Replace coil pack until firmly down, rebolt. Fire it up.
Yup, got mine original Bosh, same part number. Got it on amazon. Same length etc, the works.
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Old Sep 2, 2020 | 02:09 PM
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Could it be the famous alternator overrun pulley / sprag bearing?
(Just prowling the forums catching up on what's up)
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