View Poll Results: FrankW's Obsidian Obsession
FTW
69
100.00%
FTL
0
0%
Voters: 69. You may not vote on this poll
Frank's C32 Obsidian Obsession
04-20-2009, 07:08 AM
#1276
Super Moderator
+1 - 22% is quiet a jump but 56% on the back is huge.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 04-20-2009 at 07:12 AM.
04-22-2009, 05:46 AM
#1281
Super Moderator
Hey guys - It's easy to check the bushings.
See cracks:
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
See cracks:
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
04-22-2009, 08:22 AM
#1284
Super Moderator
Frank - Those looked worse on the car with the cracks pulled open - But yes my service manager agreed to change them FOC before they leaked because my service plan was running out.
Mu - just make sure he does not trash your car LOL - railtracks indeed
Gonna cost you guys beers !
Mu - just make sure he does not trash your car LOL - railtracks indeed
Gonna cost you guys beers !
04-22-2009, 09:25 AM
#1286
Super Moderator
BTW - Those bushes from my car photographed above had done 28,000 miles / 45,000Km when changed - Car now done 51,000Km & new softer bushes are perfect so far.
04-22-2009, 01:09 PM
#1288
Super Moderator
04-22-2009, 03:55 PM
#1289
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2002 c32 AMG 2012 c250 Coupe
has any body came across a company that makes aftermarket polyurethane bushings for the w203..? they will last longer than rubber but also create a lot more noise and vibration to the driver and vehicle from the engine and transmission..
04-22-2009, 05:13 PM
#1290
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sounds terrible unless you are racing.
04-22-2009, 09:14 PM
#1291
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white and whiter
some minor update pic.
ghetto-fied engine cover is done. should've sand down all the grain pattern on the cover, but got lazy. and a pic of the rotor after installed.
ghetto-fied engine cover is done. should've sand down all the grain pattern on the cover, but got lazy. and a pic of the rotor after installed.
05-12-2009, 04:27 AM
#1297
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white and whiter
Glyn, John, Phil, Ed,...need some of your feedback here.
just for the past tank of gas in the C32 I've started noticing rough idles and tonight right when I just started the car and giving it a very light rev when the rev drops the interior light flickers and the engine almost feels like sputtering. After a drive about 5min giving the same test the lights no longer flickers.
now, I have a few possibility of the cause in my head just want to see if you have better idea to narrow it down.
1. rough idle: maybe a miss fire or dirty injector. This past tank I've run on Chevron and the Chevron injector cleaner which should take care of the idle issue, but oddly only started after adding the injector cleaner.
2. rough idle + light flicker: possibly the battery is dying, but I have no issue with engine starts even when parked like 5 out of 7 days a week. The quick check voltage using the hvac seems normal. 13.8 and holding after a short drive. now this leads me to thinking maybe the alternator is starting to go. I certainly hope not, but bad alternator doesn't seem to explain the rough idle. but engine sputter/choking on start up does seem like a reasonable cause for light flicker as on cold start the battery is used to start and then while the engine is running it's charged back and the sputter/choking sort of disrupt the charge.
3. rough idle maybe due to a loose spark plug wire? which has happened. I haven't checked it out yet since it's dark out, but that doesn't explain the light flicker/dimming.
under full throttle the engine seems to run fine and everything else seems normal.
but I am feeling as if there's some what a power loss.
let me know what you all think.
thanks
just for the past tank of gas in the C32 I've started noticing rough idles and tonight right when I just started the car and giving it a very light rev when the rev drops the interior light flickers and the engine almost feels like sputtering. After a drive about 5min giving the same test the lights no longer flickers.
now, I have a few possibility of the cause in my head just want to see if you have better idea to narrow it down.
1. rough idle: maybe a miss fire or dirty injector. This past tank I've run on Chevron and the Chevron injector cleaner which should take care of the idle issue, but oddly only started after adding the injector cleaner.
2. rough idle + light flicker: possibly the battery is dying, but I have no issue with engine starts even when parked like 5 out of 7 days a week. The quick check voltage using the hvac seems normal. 13.8 and holding after a short drive. now this leads me to thinking maybe the alternator is starting to go. I certainly hope not, but bad alternator doesn't seem to explain the rough idle. but engine sputter/choking on start up does seem like a reasonable cause for light flicker as on cold start the battery is used to start and then while the engine is running it's charged back and the sputter/choking sort of disrupt the charge.
3. rough idle maybe due to a loose spark plug wire? which has happened. I haven't checked it out yet since it's dark out, but that doesn't explain the light flicker/dimming.
under full throttle the engine seems to run fine and everything else seems normal.
but I am feeling as if there's some what a power loss. let me know what you all think.
thanks
05-12-2009, 06:43 PM
#1299
Super Moderator
Frank
- any codes?
- There is the slightest chance that Techron might have dislodged some **** in an injector & caused a dribble. This will go away as the deposit disolves. Techron works best during stationary heat soak periods.
- The dimming lights are a dead giveaway - Must be battery or alternator - Have the system tested under load.
- You would know plugs, coilpacks, leads & misfire codes, clogged filters - must check
- How old are your O2 sensors?
- Presume engine mounts OK?
Good luck - start with electrics & codes
- any codes?
- There is the slightest chance that Techron might have dislodged some **** in an injector & caused a dribble. This will go away as the deposit disolves. Techron works best during stationary heat soak periods.
- The dimming lights are a dead giveaway - Must be battery or alternator - Have the system tested under load.
- You would know plugs, coilpacks, leads & misfire codes, clogged filters - must check
- How old are your O2 sensors?
- Presume engine mounts OK?
Good luck - start with electrics & codes
05-12-2009, 08:38 PM
#1300
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white and whiter
thx glyn, mike,
checked all the ignition wires and found the third wire from the back on the passenger side is loose. fixed that and started the car and the rough idle is fixed, so it was just a misfire from the ignition coil being loose. cleaned the air-filter while I'm at it as well.
will test out the alternator and battery again for the light dimming issue on start up again. Have the uptima red top for about two year only. if anything this thing should be life time warranty by the company. hope it's not the alternator giving out. looks to be a pain in the a$$ DIY. lol
02 sensor is pretty old. no issue with it tho.
engine mount was replaced under warranty few years back and I believe it was replaced with a newer engine mount design. took a look peek at it and they look as new as they can be.
oh yea, I checked the price on the control arms. the new design with the updated part number is about $420 with my hook up. I might just get the ones from the ebay with the older design for $260.
checked all the ignition wires and found the third wire from the back on the passenger side is loose. fixed that and started the car and the rough idle is fixed, so it was just a misfire from the ignition coil being loose. cleaned the air-filter while I'm at it as well.
will test out the alternator and battery again for the light dimming issue on start up again. Have the uptima red top for about two year only. if anything this thing should be life time warranty by the company. hope it's not the alternator giving out. looks to be a pain in the a$$ DIY. lol
02 sensor is pretty old. no issue with it tho.
engine mount was replaced under warranty few years back and I believe it was replaced with a newer engine mount design. took a look peek at it and they look as new as they can be.
oh yea, I checked the price on the control arms. the new design with the updated part number is about $420 with my hook up. I might just get the ones from the ebay with the older design for $260.
Last edited by FrankW; 05-12-2009 at 08:42 PM.
