View Poll Results: FrankW's Obsidian Obsession
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Frank's C32 Obsidian Obsession
#1376
MBWorld Fanatic!
My guess....
...the noise is definitely coming from the driver side valves. giving it some gas and the noise speed up and gets less noisy and after about a min the noise completely went away. while there was the loud tapping the idle is rough and after the noise stopped the idle was better...
#1377
MBWorld Fanatic!
this car just hates me more and more.
was adjusting the driver side camber and decide to move her out of the way of the pepper tree with leaves falling all over the place.
started her up and hear the loudest tapping noise I've heard ever from her. pop the hood put my ear down on all possible things (passenger bank valves, TB, driver side bank valves, purge valve) and yup...the noise is definitely coming from the driver side valves. giving it some gas and the noise speed up and gets less noisy and after about a min the noise completely went away. while there was the loud tapping the idle is rough and after the noise stopped the idle was better.
soooo on top of everything that are possible causes for the recent events this leads me to think maybe because the car wasn't firing properly for a while due to ignition wires dying and because the car is tuned to run slightly rich the misfire caused built up in the valves etc.
so far I've eliminated the wires, plugs, and possibly the coils (running two coil packs from the CLK to replace the one that was questionable. the CLK runs fine and the 32 still doing what it's doing).
next on the list are MAP, EGR, and dirty valve.
was adjusting the driver side camber and decide to move her out of the way of the pepper tree with leaves falling all over the place.
started her up and hear the loudest tapping noise I've heard ever from her. pop the hood put my ear down on all possible things (passenger bank valves, TB, driver side bank valves, purge valve) and yup...the noise is definitely coming from the driver side valves. giving it some gas and the noise speed up and gets less noisy and after about a min the noise completely went away. while there was the loud tapping the idle is rough and after the noise stopped the idle was better.
soooo on top of everything that are possible causes for the recent events this leads me to think maybe because the car wasn't firing properly for a while due to ignition wires dying and because the car is tuned to run slightly rich the misfire caused built up in the valves etc.
so far I've eliminated the wires, plugs, and possibly the coils (running two coil packs from the CLK to replace the one that was questionable. the CLK runs fine and the 32 still doing what it's doing).
next on the list are MAP, EGR, and dirty valve.
#1378
Super Moderator
this car just hates me more and more.
was adjusting the driver side camber and decide to move her out of the way of the pepper tree with leaves falling all over the place.
started her up and hear the loudest tapping noise I've heard ever from her. pop the hood put my ear down on all possible things (passenger bank valves, TB, driver side bank valves, purge valve) and yup...the noise is definitely coming from the driver side valves. giving it some gas and the noise speed up and gets less noisy and after about a min the noise completely went away. while there was the loud tapping the idle is rough and after the noise stopped the idle was better.
soooo on top of everything that are possible causes for the recent events this leads me to think maybe because the car wasn't firing properly for a while due to ignition wires dying and because the car is tuned to run slightly rich the misfire caused built up in the valves etc.
so far I've eliminated the wires, plugs, and possibly the coils (running two coil packs from the CLK to replace the one that was questionable. the CLK runs fine and the 32 still doing what it's doing).
next on the list are MAP, EGR, and dirty valve.
was adjusting the driver side camber and decide to move her out of the way of the pepper tree with leaves falling all over the place.
started her up and hear the loudest tapping noise I've heard ever from her. pop the hood put my ear down on all possible things (passenger bank valves, TB, driver side bank valves, purge valve) and yup...the noise is definitely coming from the driver side valves. giving it some gas and the noise speed up and gets less noisy and after about a min the noise completely went away. while there was the loud tapping the idle is rough and after the noise stopped the idle was better.
soooo on top of everything that are possible causes for the recent events this leads me to think maybe because the car wasn't firing properly for a while due to ignition wires dying and because the car is tuned to run slightly rich the misfire caused built up in the valves etc.
so far I've eliminated the wires, plugs, and possibly the coils (running two coil packs from the CLK to replace the one that was questionable. the CLK runs fine and the 32 still doing what it's doing).
next on the list are MAP, EGR, and dirty valve.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 07-12-2009 at 07:14 AM.
#1379
MBWorld Fanatic!
Frank - You must stop driving the car until this is diagnosed. You are going to damage something - valve hit piston etc. It could just be a dirty valve but you need to know. You might still have a broken valve spring - valve assemblies rotate constantly & that might be why the noise comes & goes. Depends on the orientation of the springs. Please compression test & I advise getting that head off for full inspection. I'm not saying it's not build up on the valve tulip - American fuel is not great & we don't know the condition of the valve guides & stem seals - but if you are using Techron - running slightly rich should not cause problems. It should help clean the inlet tract. Build up on the tulip is usually a combination of fuel crap & burnt on VI improver from the oil leaking down the guide. If you continue to run with excessive clearance on one valve you will wear a flat on that cam lobe. You might have a damaged valve collet - Good luck!
#1382
Super Moderator
Don't even think of selling it - If it's just head work - fix it - not a major train smash - It's when you loose a block on these engines that you have to wonder whether repair is worthwhile - then better to find a secondhand engine.
#1384
MBWorld Fanatic!
#1385
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white and whiter
it only made me change the wires that I wanted to change for a while anyway.
and when asked when did I change out the plugs was a very good question because I thought I only did it 20k miles ago, but searching around I think it was more around 35-40k miles ago.
so so far i've only spent on necessary maintenance items.
#1386
MBWorld Fanatic!
#1387
MBWorld Fanatic!
airline tickets too expensive man...lol
it only made me change the wires that I wanted to change for a while anyway.
and when asked when did I change out the plugs was a very good question because I thought I only did it 20k miles ago, but searching around I think it was more around 35-40k miles ago.
so so far i've only spent on necessary maintenance items.
it only made me change the wires that I wanted to change for a while anyway.
and when asked when did I change out the plugs was a very good question because I thought I only did it 20k miles ago, but searching around I think it was more around 35-40k miles ago.
so so far i've only spent on necessary maintenance items.
#1388
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white and whiter
ran STAR. misfire on #4. all electrics checked out. the readout shows something 5.6-6.7 in the "smooth engine running" menu in the STAR.
suspect it's the valve sticking or not closing (valve spring probably died). erratic vacuum read. did not have time to do compression test.
suspect it's the valve sticking or not closing (valve spring probably died). erratic vacuum read. did not have time to do compression test.
Last edited by FrankW; 07-13-2009 at 08:40 PM.
#1391
Super Moderator
Damn. You already know about the compression/leak down tests.
A borescope can also reveal if the valve(s) and piston have made contact.
I sure hope not…
A borescope can also reveal if the valve(s) and piston have made contact.
I sure hope not…
#1394
Super Moderator
Frank - I don't think you've had a hard touch if at all. If you had bent valves you would know - big noise!!! & terrible running. Damn I bent a lot of Alfa valves in the old wild days.
I don't have a manual or procedure - sorry - This is all I have for the C32. Let me know if you need pics of front chain case & all.
Good Luck
I don't have a manual or procedure - sorry - This is all I have for the C32. Let me know if you need pics of front chain case & all.
Good Luck
#1395
MBWorld Fanatic!
Does this mean you verified a broken valve spring? I've heard of similar valve spring replacements being done without removing the head. They used air pressure to keep the valve in place while compressing the spring and installing the collets (or is that how everyone does it now?). How about subscribing to All Data for the tech info? However you do it the information will be better at hand.
#1396
Super Moderator
Replaced valve springs on Detroit iron in situ without too much effort.
MB’s procedure…
MB’s procedure…
Last edited by splinter; 10-06-2010 at 07:00 AM.
#1397
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white and whiter
I'll ask around to see how much repair will be. already got one quote.
thanks glyn for the graph as well.
on my older bro's 97 528 we had a broken valve spring too and we were able to DIY it without much trouble, but everything on this M112 seems over engineered to a point you are asking ...WHY? lol
BMW made the same power with a 3.0L inline 6 on single spark 4 valve design and it is more fuel efficient as well. why the heck did MB's engineer decide to go twin-spark and 3 valve. lol in truth not very efficient and cost grip to repair and replace parts.
glad on the M272 they made it simpler.
Last edited by FrankW; 07-16-2009 at 03:58 AM.
#1398
Super Moderator
[QUOTE=splinter;3624347]Replaced valve springs on Detroit iron in situ without too much effort.QUOTE]
Yep - Achieved the same with Italian ALUMINUM when I had bent nothing. Bloody Alfa had dual valve springs to add to the angst.
Yep - Achieved the same with Italian ALUMINUM when I had bent nothing. Bloody Alfa had dual valve springs to add to the angst.
#1399
Super Moderator
At the time the 112 was developed they were determined it enjoy LEV (low emission vehicle) status in Europe. Hence the twinspark. Kraut engineering for the sake of engineering if you ask me sometimes.
Their auto trannys are a masterpiece in simplicity - especially the 7G for what it achieves I think cost is driving simplicity in the new DB regime & that is good.
#1400
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Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
thanks john. that looks like PAIN to DIY.
I'll ask around to see how much repair will be. already got one quote.
thanks glyn for the graph as well.
on my older bro's 97 528 we had a broken valve spring too and we were able to DIY it without much trouble, but everything on this M112 seems over engineered to a point you are asking ...WHY? lol
BMW made the same power with a 3.0L inline 6 on single spark 4 valve design and it is more fuel efficient as well. why the heck did MB's engineer decide to go twin-spark and 3 valve. lol in truth not very efficient and cost grip to repair and replace parts.
glad on the M272 they made it simpler.
I'll ask around to see how much repair will be. already got one quote.
thanks glyn for the graph as well.
on my older bro's 97 528 we had a broken valve spring too and we were able to DIY it without much trouble, but everything on this M112 seems over engineered to a point you are asking ...WHY? lol
BMW made the same power with a 3.0L inline 6 on single spark 4 valve design and it is more fuel efficient as well. why the heck did MB's engineer decide to go twin-spark and 3 valve. lol in truth not very efficient and cost grip to repair and replace parts.
glad on the M272 they made it simpler.