2002 C240 transmission issue?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
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From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
2002 C240 transmission issue?
Hi, I am new to this forum and hope to gain some knowledge by being here.
I own a 2002 C240 with 116k miles that I hoped to keep for some time. But, now, I'm not sure I want to.
Over the last few weeks, the car, randomly, would not go into park. First time was at a gas station. It freaked me out, I won't lie. But when I took my foot off the brake, it slid right in. It has done that several times. I've never had an issue putting it into gear, only putting it into park. Last week, I left the grocery store and the car seemed to stay in a lower gear. I got it home, albeit slow, and determined it was in "limp mode".
A quick internet search revealed I should look at TCM fuses, transmission fluid level, conductor plate or issues with not enough electricity reaching the transmission.
Yesterday, I took it to the local AAMCO to see if they could diagnose the issue.
Their tests came back with a number of codes that I have looked up but really don't seem to scream transmission problems, per SE.
They initially said I needed a bushing in the shifter which was cheap and I okayed. Then they said I needed a whole new "shifter". As of 5pm today, they were still pricing.
My gut tells me this won't fix the problem so I'm hoping for pearls of wisdom from this group.
Thanks, in advance, for any advice!
I own a 2002 C240 with 116k miles that I hoped to keep for some time. But, now, I'm not sure I want to.
Over the last few weeks, the car, randomly, would not go into park. First time was at a gas station. It freaked me out, I won't lie. But when I took my foot off the brake, it slid right in. It has done that several times. I've never had an issue putting it into gear, only putting it into park. Last week, I left the grocery store and the car seemed to stay in a lower gear. I got it home, albeit slow, and determined it was in "limp mode".
A quick internet search revealed I should look at TCM fuses, transmission fluid level, conductor plate or issues with not enough electricity reaching the transmission.
Yesterday, I took it to the local AAMCO to see if they could diagnose the issue.
Their tests came back with a number of codes that I have looked up but really don't seem to scream transmission problems, per SE.
They initially said I needed a bushing in the shifter which was cheap and I okayed. Then they said I needed a whole new "shifter". As of 5pm today, they were still pricing.
My gut tells me this won't fix the problem so I'm hoping for pearls of wisdom from this group.
Thanks, in advance, for any advice!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
When you say you can't put the car into P, are you saying the stick physically gets stuck in the R position, or you can move the stick into P but the car still thinks it's in R?
The electronics in the shifter are known to go bad. Not common, but it can happen. My understanding is that it's not the components that go bad, but cold joints (ie cracks) in the solder.
Depending on how dirty you want to get your hands, this can be DIYed with some hand tools and some soldering equipment. The cold joints can be identified by hand and resoldered, or if you want, you can either a) bake the entire PCB in a toaster oven to reflow all the joints, or b) replace the PCB with one from a wrecker.
The electronics in the shifter are known to go bad. Not common, but it can happen. My understanding is that it's not the components that go bad, but cold joints (ie cracks) in the solder.
Depending on how dirty you want to get your hands, this can be DIYed with some hand tools and some soldering equipment. The cold joints can be identified by hand and resoldered, or if you want, you can either a) bake the entire PCB in a toaster oven to reflow all the joints, or b) replace the PCB with one from a wrecker.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
When you say you can't put the car into P, are you saying the stick physically gets stuck in the R position, or you can move the stick into P but the car still thinks it's in R?
The electronics in the shifter are known to go bad. Not common, but it can happen. My understanding is that it's not the components that go bad, but cold joints (ie cracks) in the solder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-0l7-I2z6Y
Depending on how dirty you want to get your hands, this can be DIYed with some hand tools and some soldering equipment. The cold joints can be identified by hand and resoldered, or if you want, you can either a) bake the entire PCB in a toaster oven to reflow all the joints, or b) replace the PCB with one from a wrecker.
The electronics in the shifter are known to go bad. Not common, but it can happen. My understanding is that it's not the components that go bad, but cold joints (ie cracks) in the solder.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-0l7-I2z6Y
Depending on how dirty you want to get your hands, this can be DIYed with some hand tools and some soldering equipment. The cold joints can be identified by hand and resoldered, or if you want, you can either a) bake the entire PCB in a toaster oven to reflow all the joints, or b) replace the PCB with one from a wrecker.
As an update, although AAMCO said it probably needed a new shifter, they reported it also gave a bunch of other codes and I wasn't convinced the shifter would fix so I decided to have the car towed to a shop that specializes in electronic stuff. Well, as of this morning, they reported a ton of other codes and advised maybe the car wasn't worth being fixed. And I am beside myself!
The car doesn't smoke, does not leak any fluids on my driveway or make any weird noises but they are telling me it's toast. I don't get it.
I wish I was a DIYer, but I'm not. I'm a 65 year old, widowed Social Worker that hoped to keep this car for some time.
Maybe I'm being naive, but my gut tells me my car can't be as bad off as they are saying.
That's why I joined this group. I don't know much about cars but I'm good at researching and finding solutions to problems.
I'm in the DC area so if you have any advice or know someone in my area that might be able to assist, please let me know. Thanks.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
For stuff such as cars, often it is a single bad component that causes a cascade of other problems. The trick to DIY is to identify and replace only the bad component(s). Anything else is basically throwing money at the car and hoping the problem goes away.
A car is technically "totalled" when the cost of an upcoming repair exceeds a certain % of the market of the value of the car. Personally I don't agree with this definition at all, but most people in general also cannot be bothered to take the time to figure out what's wrong with the problem. A problem can often be DIYed for a fraction of the cost for those who are able and inclined to do the repair (therefore saving a car from being totalled), but definitely isn't for everyone. I understand that DIY isn't an option for you, so at this point your best bet is to start replacing parts. FYI this is why dealerships often just throw parts at cars. It costs too much to pay a technician to diagnose.
In your case, the car clearly drives fine, so there is nothing wrong with the transmission (a lot of transmission "error" codes don't affect driveability and can safely be ignored). It's the last part where the car doesn't want to go into P. Based on this, I would advise replacing the shifter module. If this doesn't fix the problem, I would next look at the sensor that tells the car if the brake pedal is depressed. I think the entire assembly is sold as a single PN. In other words, the electronics are not sold separetly from the housing with the shifter stick.
A car is technically "totalled" when the cost of an upcoming repair exceeds a certain % of the market of the value of the car. Personally I don't agree with this definition at all, but most people in general also cannot be bothered to take the time to figure out what's wrong with the problem. A problem can often be DIYed for a fraction of the cost for those who are able and inclined to do the repair (therefore saving a car from being totalled), but definitely isn't for everyone. I understand that DIY isn't an option for you, so at this point your best bet is to start replacing parts. FYI this is why dealerships often just throw parts at cars. It costs too much to pay a technician to diagnose.
In your case, the car clearly drives fine, so there is nothing wrong with the transmission (a lot of transmission "error" codes don't affect driveability and can safely be ignored). It's the last part where the car doesn't want to go into P. Based on this, I would advise replacing the shifter module. If this doesn't fix the problem, I would next look at the sensor that tells the car if the brake pedal is depressed. I think the entire assembly is sold as a single PN. In other words, the electronics are not sold separetly from the housing with the shifter stick.
Last edited by slammer111; Sep 11, 2022 at 07:38 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
For stuff such as cars, often it is a single bad component that causes a cascade of other problems. The trick to DIY is to identify and replace only the bad component(s). Anything else is basically throwing money at the car and hoping the problem goes away.
A car is technically "totalled" when the cost of an upcoming repair exceeds a certain % of the market of the value of the car. Personally I don't agree with this definition at all, but most people in general also cannot be bothered to take the time to figure out what's wrong with the problem. A problem can often be DIYed for a fraction of the cost for those who are able an inclined to do the repair (therefore saving a car from being totalled), but definitely isn't for everyone. I understand that DIY isn't an option for you, so at this point your best bet is to start replacing parts. FYI this is why dealerships often just throw parts at cars. It costs too much to pay a technician to diagnose.
In your case, the car clearly drives fine, so there is nothing wrong with the transmission (a lot of transmission "error" codes don't affect driveability and can safely be ignored). It's the last part where the car doesn't want to go into P. Based on this, I would advise replacing the shifter module. If this doesn't fix the problem, I would next look at the sensor that tells the car if the brake pedal is depressed. I think the entire assembly is sold as a single PN. In other words, the electronics are not sold separetly from the housing with the shifter stick.
A car is technically "totalled" when the cost of an upcoming repair exceeds a certain % of the market of the value of the car. Personally I don't agree with this definition at all, but most people in general also cannot be bothered to take the time to figure out what's wrong with the problem. A problem can often be DIYed for a fraction of the cost for those who are able an inclined to do the repair (therefore saving a car from being totalled), but definitely isn't for everyone. I understand that DIY isn't an option for you, so at this point your best bet is to start replacing parts. FYI this is why dealerships often just throw parts at cars. It costs too much to pay a technician to diagnose.
In your case, the car clearly drives fine, so there is nothing wrong with the transmission (a lot of transmission "error" codes don't affect driveability and can safely be ignored). It's the last part where the car doesn't want to go into P. Based on this, I would advise replacing the shifter module. If this doesn't fix the problem, I would next look at the sensor that tells the car if the brake pedal is depressed. I think the entire assembly is sold as a single PN. In other words, the electronics are not sold separetly from the housing with the shifter stick.
So AAMCO originally said I needed a shift bushing and a brake light switch. Then they said, upon inspection, I needed a new shifter. The part was reasonably priced. Are you saying this might be all I need?
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Correct. That would be my guess for your situation. Talking about the entire plastic thing located underneath the trim panel, with the shifter stick and circuit board attached. Basically the thing in the video in post #4. Good luck.
Last edited by slammer111; Sep 11, 2022 at 07:36 AM.
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C240
A couple of days after I installed the license plate LED's with the resistors -which seemed to work fine- my shifter got stuck in park(C240 2004).
I don't know if they are related or if it has something to do with the rear SAM or if you would know
if there is a known thing connected to these two issues-the stuck in park and the "number plate bulbs"??
I have watched so many videos and read so many posts.
Also, I have seen it is possible that the triangle piece might be broken in the shifter, or it could be a relay
or it could be something in the transmission- but I thought I would ask you
just because I saw your name in the above posts and you were nice to help me with the LED's. Thanks
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
^ There is no correlation between the plate bulbs and the stick problem you're experiencing, unless you managed to somehow also short out the plate light circuitry with the brake light which I imagine you didn't. The fact your shifter problem showed up a few days later instead of immediately leads me to that conclusion.
There's some barrier mechanism (no idea what it looks like, I assume it's a hinged piece attached to a solenoid) that unlocks the shifter stick when the brake pedal is depressed and the brake light turns on. It might simply be that the brake light switch has gone bad, which would cause your car to think the brake pedal wasn't depressed and therefore keep the shifter stick locked. That's where I would look first. The barrier mechanism isn't known for failing. Let us know what you find.
There's some barrier mechanism (no idea what it looks like, I assume it's a hinged piece attached to a solenoid) that unlocks the shifter stick when the brake pedal is depressed and the brake light turns on. It might simply be that the brake light switch has gone bad, which would cause your car to think the brake pedal wasn't depressed and therefore keep the shifter stick locked. That's where I would look first. The barrier mechanism isn't known for failing. Let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
For stuff such as cars, often it is a single bad component that causes a cascade of other problems. The trick to DIY is to identify and replace only the bad component(s). Anything else is basically throwing money at the car and hoping the problem goes away.
A car is technically "totalled" when the cost of an upcoming repair exceeds a certain % of the market of the value of the car. Personally I don't agree with this definition at all, but most people in general also cannot be bothered to take the time to figure out what's wrong with the problem. A problem can often be DIYed for a fraction of the cost for those who are able and inclined to do the repair (therefore saving a car from being totalled), but definitely isn't for everyone. I understand that DIY isn't an option for you, so at this point your best bet is to start replacing parts. FYI this is why dealerships often just throw parts at cars. It costs too much to pay a technician to diagnose.
In your case, the car clearly drives fine, so there is nothing wrong with the transmission (a lot of transmission "error" codes don't affect driveability and can safely be ignored). It's the last part where the car doesn't want to go into P. Based on this, I would advise replacing the shifter module. If this doesn't fix the problem, I would next look at the sensor that tells the car if the brake pedal is depressed. I think the entire assembly is sold as a single PN. In other words, the electronics are not sold separetly from the housing with the shifter stick.
A car is technically "totalled" when the cost of an upcoming repair exceeds a certain % of the market of the value of the car. Personally I don't agree with this definition at all, but most people in general also cannot be bothered to take the time to figure out what's wrong with the problem. A problem can often be DIYed for a fraction of the cost for those who are able and inclined to do the repair (therefore saving a car from being totalled), but definitely isn't for everyone. I understand that DIY isn't an option for you, so at this point your best bet is to start replacing parts. FYI this is why dealerships often just throw parts at cars. It costs too much to pay a technician to diagnose.
In your case, the car clearly drives fine, so there is nothing wrong with the transmission (a lot of transmission "error" codes don't affect driveability and can safely be ignored). It's the last part where the car doesn't want to go into P. Based on this, I would advise replacing the shifter module. If this doesn't fix the problem, I would next look at the sensor that tells the car if the brake pedal is depressed. I think the entire assembly is sold as a single PN. In other words, the electronics are not sold separetly from the housing with the shifter stick.
As of this afternoon, they are advising they cannot find a shifter replacement. Is this possible? I am so, over this.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
Yes it is completely possible. The shop people don't know what they're doing. Just order one online or from your local dealer. Or you can also go the wrecker route.
Where are you located? You might want to add your location in your signature.
Where are you located? You might want to add your location in your signature.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
I am in northern Virginia, 5 minutes from DC.
If you know someone who can fix my car, please advise.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,275
Likes: 236
From: BC, Canada
2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
^ You may want to put your location in your avatar profile, underneath where you listed your car year and model. (take a look at my profile as an example) That way anyone here from the same area may be able to point you in the right direction. Also there are several versions of the car, depending on the country where it was sold.
In the modern era it's hard for someone to be a specialist in all cars. I'm guessing AAMCO is probably a specialist in domestics, which is why you're running into problems. Your best bet is actually a local MB or German specialist, if you want to avoid dealer prices. Dealer will be able to fix it but they will also be the most expensive.
The dealer parts department or a website like MBOEMParts will have what you're looking for. Be sure to do your homework (ie go by your VIN when looking for the part, not just year and model) so you don't order the wrong part. The good news is you're in USA where it's super easy to obtain parts.
Good luck.
In the modern era it's hard for someone to be a specialist in all cars. I'm guessing AAMCO is probably a specialist in domestics, which is why you're running into problems. Your best bet is actually a local MB or German specialist, if you want to avoid dealer prices. Dealer will be able to fix it but they will also be the most expensive.
The dealer parts department or a website like MBOEMParts will have what you're looking for. Be sure to do your homework (ie go by your VIN when looking for the part, not just year and model) so you don't order the wrong part. The good news is you're in USA where it's super easy to obtain parts.
Good luck.
Last edited by slammer111; Sep 20, 2022 at 07:36 AM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
AAMCO called me today and advised they received the 3rd shifter they ordered and it "was bad". They are giving me attitude and saying they have to pay re stocking fees for parts they ordered that don't work.
I took your advice and looked at the MB oem website and got nothing, even after submitting my VIN.
I've got a gift basket for anyone that can find the freaking part I need to get my car back.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,265
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
OK, so shifter gives a very specific code that is easy to look up.I will find it and post later. It is NOT an inexpensive part. Last I looked Best price I found was $700 + on Amazon! Dealer was $1500!
$200 for a used one on ebay. I also have 2002 and 2002 connections are different than later years.
I know these things from experience.
In the end I managed to get the correct shifter from a Picknpull for $30 after waiting some months for a 2002 to show up anywhere near my then home of San Jose.
I ended up driving to Richmond to get it, and later I managed to aquire a spare so I won't have to go through this again.
$200 for a used one on ebay. I also have 2002 and 2002 connections are different than later years.
I know these things from experience.
In the end I managed to get the correct shifter from a Picknpull for $30 after waiting some months for a 2002 to show up anywhere near my then home of San Jose.
I ended up driving to Richmond to get it, and later I managed to aquire a spare so I won't have to go through this again.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Oct 15, 2022 at 03:52 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,265
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
OK the code is P0705 for the shifter.
If you aren't seeing that it's not the shifter.
What codes did Aamco get?
How many miles on your vehicle?
Here's my old thread with instructions for removing and replacing.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...314-p0705.html
I see someone added a video to the thread about baking the circuit board in an oven to fix it.
Interesting idea.
Search P0705 in any of the forums using 5 speed trans and you will find
lots of info.
At the time, dealer told me to use one of these part numbers for 2002.
"The P/N 2032678824 is the latest P/N for your car.
The older P/Ns are 2032672124 , 2032672724 , and 2032674924"
If you aren't seeing that it's not the shifter.
What codes did Aamco get?
How many miles on your vehicle?
Here's my old thread with instructions for removing and replacing.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...314-p0705.html
I see someone added a video to the thread about baking the circuit board in an oven to fix it.
Interesting idea.
Search P0705 in any of the forums using 5 speed trans and you will find
lots of info.
At the time, dealer told me to use one of these part numbers for 2002.
"The P/N 2032678824 is the latest P/N for your car.
The older P/Ns are 2032672124 , 2032672724 , and 2032674924"
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; Oct 15, 2022 at 03:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
OK, so shifter gives a very specific code that is easy to look up.I will find it and post later. It is NOT an inexpensive part. Last I looked Best price I found was $700 + on Amazon! Dealer was $1500!
$200 for a used one on ebay. I also have 2002 and 2002 connections are different than later years.
I know these things from experience.
In the end I managed to get the correct shifter from a Picknpull for $30 after waiting some months for a 2002 to show up anywhere near my then home of San Jose.
I ended up driving to Richmond to get it, and later I managed to aquire a spare so I won't have to go through this again.
$200 for a used one on ebay. I also have 2002 and 2002 connections are different than later years.
I know these things from experience.
In the end I managed to get the correct shifter from a Picknpull for $30 after waiting some months for a 2002 to show up anywhere near my then home of San Jose.
I ended up driving to Richmond to get it, and later I managed to aquire a spare so I won't have to go through this again.
So, I bit the bullet, had the shop order a new shifter and got it done. It was $1000, out the door. Car seems to be shifting fine now.
You mentioned Richmond. Do you, by any chance, live in the DC area? I sure could use a friend/ear/mechanic type to help me navigate keeping this old girl on the road a while longer!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,265
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
No sorry, Richmond CA.
In the future you can read your own codes, and post them here, using something like
this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29527460807...IAAOSw3J1iAMgg
Free program called "Torque" for Android will read the codes from this, and likely other programs for Apple as well.
You can email yourself a report then cut and paste.
Easy peasy!
Best of luck with your car.
So how many miles on it?
In the future you can read your own codes, and post them here, using something like
this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29527460807...IAAOSw3J1iAMgg
Free program called "Torque" for Android will read the codes from this, and likely other programs for Apple as well.
You can email yourself a report then cut and paste.
Easy peasy!
Best of luck with your car.
So how many miles on it?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Washington, DC, USA
2002 Mercedes C240
No sorry, Richmond CA.
In the future you can read your own codes, and post them here, using something like
this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29527460807...IAAOSw3J1iAMgg
Free program called "Torque" for Android will read the codes from this, and likely other programs for Apple as well.
You can email yourself a report then cut and paste.
Easy peasy!
Best of luck with your car.
So how many miles on it?
In the future you can read your own codes, and post them here, using something like
this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29527460807...IAAOSw3J1iAMgg
Free program called "Torque" for Android will read the codes from this, and likely other programs for Apple as well.
You can email yourself a report then cut and paste.
Easy peasy!
Best of luck with your car.
So how many miles on it?
The only code I'm getting now is for the purge control valve. That doesn't look like a hard fix but who knows. This car has worked my last nerve!
I'm a 65 y/o, retired Social Worker. Not a DIYer, by any stretch but I try to educate myself so I can make sound decisions and not get screwed. I actually had the car towed to an "electrical specialist" shop while waiting for AAMCO to find a part. They told me the car was throwing so many codes it would cost thousands to diagnose and maybe the car wasn't worth fixing.
The car has 116,000 miles.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 7,265
Likes: 169
From: So. Oregon Coast
C230 Sport Coup + 2006 W164 ML350 + 99 Ford Escort RIP
So many codes THEY couldn't read is more like it.
That's funny. As I was typing I was wondering if you meant Richmond, Ca. I used to live in the Bay area, still have family there.
The only code I'm getting now is for the purge control valve. That doesn't look like a hard fix but who knows. This car has worked my last nerve!
I'm a 65 y/o, retired Social Worker. Not a DIYer, by any stretch but I try to educate myself so I can make sound decisions and not get screwed. I actually had the car towed to an "electrical specialist" shop while waiting for AAMCO to find a part. They told me the car was throwing so many codes it would cost thousands to diagnose and maybe the car wasn't worth fixing.
The car has 116,000 miles.
The only code I'm getting now is for the purge control valve. That doesn't look like a hard fix but who knows. This car has worked my last nerve!
I'm a 65 y/o, retired Social Worker. Not a DIYer, by any stretch but I try to educate myself so I can make sound decisions and not get screwed. I actually had the car towed to an "electrical specialist" shop while waiting for AAMCO to find a part. They told me the car was throwing so many codes it would cost thousands to diagnose and maybe the car wasn't worth fixing.
The car has 116,000 miles.
