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DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures
05-14-2013, 06:12 PM
#426
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S212 2011 Wagon and Wife's 2014 C350 sedan.
Mercedes Oil Service, Drain vs Suck method
I have a 2014 C 350 Sedan on order and in looking through the W204 site found this thread. I read the entire thread and found it very interesting.
A few years ago, I had a Passat diesel and always changed my own oil by sucking it out through the dip stick. After 50,000 miles no problems.
In 2011 I purchased an E350 W212S 4matic wagon. It now has 48,000 miles on it. Here in Minneapolis we have three MB dealers and they always have oil service specials, $69-$89 for Mobil 1 5W40, so I have them do it.
When I bring the car in they always tell me "they DRAIN" the oil out. I just confirmed with each dealer's service manager if they do that for just the E Class or for both the C Class and E Class. Each said they do it for both. I asked about Evacuating the oil using the dip stick and only one said they used to do it that way but stopped three years ago. he did not know why.
In the thread, it was mentioned that Mercedes engineered the engine to have the oil changed using only the dip stick to save time during routine maintenance.
I wonder why the local dealers here have not adopted that procedure?
I seems members are able to evacuate 7.5 or 8.5 qts. depending on model through the dip stick.
A few years ago, I had a Passat diesel and always changed my own oil by sucking it out through the dip stick. After 50,000 miles no problems.
In 2011 I purchased an E350 W212S 4matic wagon. It now has 48,000 miles on it. Here in Minneapolis we have three MB dealers and they always have oil service specials, $69-$89 for Mobil 1 5W40, so I have them do it.
When I bring the car in they always tell me "they DRAIN" the oil out. I just confirmed with each dealer's service manager if they do that for just the E Class or for both the C Class and E Class. Each said they do it for both. I asked about Evacuating the oil using the dip stick and only one said they used to do it that way but stopped three years ago. he did not know why.
In the thread, it was mentioned that Mercedes engineered the engine to have the oil changed using only the dip stick to save time during routine maintenance.
I wonder why the local dealers here have not adopted that procedure?
I seems members are able to evacuate 7.5 or 8.5 qts. depending on model through the dip stick.
05-28-2013, 06:30 PM
#428
MBWorld Fanatic!
I use this one:
It's also called Pela PL 6000.
The pump does not come into contact with oil => no seal deterioration like is possible with some MityVacs (AFAIK)
The pump does not come into contact with oil => no seal deterioration like is possible with some MityVacs (AFAIK)
05-28-2013, 06:51 PM
#429
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'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
I use this one: Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor OIL01 : Amazon.com : Automotive
It's also called Pela PL 6000.
It's also called Pela PL 6000.
The pump does not come into contact with oil => no seal deterioration like is possible with some MityVacs (AFAIK)
Mityvac 7201 has the pump on the outside as well.
05-28-2013, 06:56 PM
#430
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09-20-2013, 09:32 AM
#431
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2011 C300 Sport 4MATIC
oil change ...
I just changed my oil yesterday using the John Dow evacuator. Sucked the oil out in under 3 mins. I bought it because it includes the MB adapter and probes for the various cars out there. and it is also has a 6gallon capacity. Changing oil has never been so quick and clean.
10-26-2013, 05:56 PM
#434
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'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
01-06-2014, 12:20 AM
#436
Senior Member
OK, I recently reread this thread in its entirety and now understand that all this talk about a discrepancy in the capacity/# of quarts used only relates to the 4Matic models, whereas for the RWD models (which is what I have), it is unquestionably 8.5 quarts
Just did my first oil change last night, so I'll make a few observations...
I used the MityVac 7201. Initially, I wasn't very impressed in that it took some time (approximately 45 minutes) to extract 8.5 quarts... HOWEVER, I did realize midway through the process that the rubber adapter I used between two different size hoses was not sealed properly (I could hear it seeping air). I should also mention that I tried to get every last drop of oil out, which may have added to the total time to extract it all.
Speaking of the rubber adapter... My MityVac came with 2... Both of which are flared (wider on one end compared to the other (see 1st pic below)).
Pic #1 Attachment 212439
And since I was one of the unfortunate ones not to receive any response from fluidevacuators, I decided to try it with the rubber adapter. I did take some measurements (See pictures 2 & 3 below) of it as well as of the dipstick plug, and although the rubber plug measured wider than the dipstick plug, I can only assume that the dipstick opening (at the top of the dipstick pipe) is wider at the top and flares down towards the bottom because that rubber adapter did fit inside and is felt like it made a good seal.
Pic #2Attachment 212440
Pic #3Attachment 212441
Point is, if you have a MityVac, chances are you don't need the fluidevacuators adapter.
I did check the oil prior to starting (last oil change was at the dealer) a number of times (over the past few days) and it looked to me like it was a hair or two over the MAX level.
After all was said and done, I did actually pull a bit more that 8.5 quarts (probably 8.75 and I'm guessing I could have pulled 9 Qts but it was getting late and I decided "enough is enough"). And replaced it with 8.5 quarts. Checked it a few times since last night and it seems to be a bit below the MAX level... That's good enough for me!
I used Mobil-1 0W-40 (bought 3 cases @ Napa during their most recent sale), I had ordered a Mann HU 718/5 X Metal-Free Oil Filter from Amazon.com.
For those who were wondering, yes, I did replace 3 O-rings (one large one and 2 small ones at the bottom of the filter holder...
I had a difficult time finding the right size tool to remove the filter cover, finally settled on the OEM/76 mm. dia. oil filter "B" cap wrench from Autozon, and though it seemed to fit fine at the store, once I got home and tried to use it, it was slipping... Ended up having to wrap some tape around the top of the filter housing, and managed to get it loose, but when I went to tighten it, (even with the tape still there), I couldn't get it past 15 N.m (whereas the cap has "25 N.m" engraved on it)... needless to say it is hand tight and have checked it and found no leaks so far. Point here is the "B-Type" and/or 76mm oil filter cap wrench/tool is too big. I'm going to try and find a 74.5mm one that has been mentioned in this thread.
Thank you to all who contributed to this thread so far.
Just did my first oil change last night, so I'll make a few observations...
I used the MityVac 7201. Initially, I wasn't very impressed in that it took some time (approximately 45 minutes) to extract 8.5 quarts... HOWEVER, I did realize midway through the process that the rubber adapter I used between two different size hoses was not sealed properly (I could hear it seeping air). I should also mention that I tried to get every last drop of oil out, which may have added to the total time to extract it all.
Speaking of the rubber adapter... My MityVac came with 2... Both of which are flared (wider on one end compared to the other (see 1st pic below)).
Pic #1 Attachment 212439
And since I was one of the unfortunate ones not to receive any response from fluidevacuators, I decided to try it with the rubber adapter. I did take some measurements (See pictures 2 & 3 below) of it as well as of the dipstick plug, and although the rubber plug measured wider than the dipstick plug, I can only assume that the dipstick opening (at the top of the dipstick pipe) is wider at the top and flares down towards the bottom because that rubber adapter did fit inside and is felt like it made a good seal.
Pic #2Attachment 212440
Pic #3Attachment 212441
Point is, if you have a MityVac, chances are you don't need the fluidevacuators adapter.
I did check the oil prior to starting (last oil change was at the dealer) a number of times (over the past few days) and it looked to me like it was a hair or two over the MAX level.
After all was said and done, I did actually pull a bit more that 8.5 quarts (probably 8.75 and I'm guessing I could have pulled 9 Qts but it was getting late and I decided "enough is enough"). And replaced it with 8.5 quarts. Checked it a few times since last night and it seems to be a bit below the MAX level... That's good enough for me!
I used Mobil-1 0W-40 (bought 3 cases @ Napa during their most recent sale), I had ordered a Mann HU 718/5 X Metal-Free Oil Filter from Amazon.com.
For those who were wondering, yes, I did replace 3 O-rings (one large one and 2 small ones at the bottom of the filter holder...
I had a difficult time finding the right size tool to remove the filter cover, finally settled on the OEM/76 mm. dia. oil filter "B" cap wrench from Autozon, and though it seemed to fit fine at the store, once I got home and tried to use it, it was slipping... Ended up having to wrap some tape around the top of the filter housing, and managed to get it loose, but when I went to tighten it, (even with the tape still there), I couldn't get it past 15 N.m (whereas the cap has "25 N.m" engraved on it)... needless to say it is hand tight and have checked it and found no leaks so far. Point here is the "B-Type" and/or 76mm oil filter cap wrench/tool is too big. I'm going to try and find a 74.5mm one that has been mentioned in this thread.
Thank you to all who contributed to this thread so far.
01-06-2014, 09:22 PM
#437
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2009 C350
As a first time "sucker" I thought I would add some thoughts on my experience with my '09 C350.
With the great advice from this thread, I purchased the dipstick tube adapter and oil filter removal tool. I already had the Motive Model 1708 fluid extractor.
I used Mobil 1 0/40 European blend and an OEM filter.
This is by far the cleanest oil change ever for me. No matter how hard I try, I typically manage to make a huge mess when draining the oil from the sump!
Things I learned.
#1. Make sure the oil is fully warmed up!
There must be some restriction where the bottom of the dipstick tube sits in the sump. I didn't get the oil warm enough and only got 4 quarts out initially. Of course, this meant that there was too little oil left in the engine to start it and warm everything up properly. After a little pondering, I figured out that I could suck it up a little at a time. In other words, wait 10 minutes, pump the extractor, wait for the "sputtering" to stop, wait 10 minutes, pump the extractor, wait for the "sputtering" to stop, wait 10 minutes, pump the extractor, wait for the "sputtering" to stop...
I had all day to complete the job, so it was no big deal. Had I warmed the oil up properly, I'm sure it would have been a pretty quick job!
#2. Don't get too much vacuum in the extractor. In my enthusiasm, I thought "more is better" so pumped the vacuum up a lot. All this did was pull a tiny bit of oil, then suck air past the (cold) oil in the extractor tube. Took me a while to figure out what was going on, contributing to my full day getting the oil out. Once I had figured out that 8-10psi of vacuum was sufficient, I was able to pull the cold oil out of the engine at about 1/8 qt per "suck".
All in all easy DIY. Clean, effective (if you warm the oil up properly). I have never enjoyed changing oil, mainly because of the mess I always end up making, but his time it was actually quite fun!
With the great advice from this thread, I purchased the dipstick tube adapter and oil filter removal tool. I already had the Motive Model 1708 fluid extractor.
I used Mobil 1 0/40 European blend and an OEM filter.
This is by far the cleanest oil change ever for me. No matter how hard I try, I typically manage to make a huge mess when draining the oil from the sump!
Things I learned.
#1. Make sure the oil is fully warmed up!
There must be some restriction where the bottom of the dipstick tube sits in the sump. I didn't get the oil warm enough and only got 4 quarts out initially. Of course, this meant that there was too little oil left in the engine to start it and warm everything up properly. After a little pondering, I figured out that I could suck it up a little at a time. In other words, wait 10 minutes, pump the extractor, wait for the "sputtering" to stop, wait 10 minutes, pump the extractor, wait for the "sputtering" to stop, wait 10 minutes, pump the extractor, wait for the "sputtering" to stop...
I had all day to complete the job, so it was no big deal. Had I warmed the oil up properly, I'm sure it would have been a pretty quick job!
#2. Don't get too much vacuum in the extractor. In my enthusiasm, I thought "more is better" so pumped the vacuum up a lot. All this did was pull a tiny bit of oil, then suck air past the (cold) oil in the extractor tube. Took me a while to figure out what was going on, contributing to my full day getting the oil out. Once I had figured out that 8-10psi of vacuum was sufficient, I was able to pull the cold oil out of the engine at about 1/8 qt per "suck".
All in all easy DIY. Clean, effective (if you warm the oil up properly). I have never enjoyed changing oil, mainly because of the mess I always end up making, but his time it was actually quite fun!
Last edited by graememwl; 01-06-2014 at 09:24 PM.
01-06-2014, 10:37 PM
#438
Super Member
Originally Posted by IGB
Speaking of the rubber adapter... My MityVac came with 2... Both of which are flared (wider on one end compared to the other (see 1st pic below)).
....
....
........
Point is, if you have a MityVac, chances are you don't need the fluidevacuators adapter.
....
....
........
Point is, if you have a MityVac, chances are you don't need the fluidevacuators adapter.
MVA6006 Extended Tube Kit (scroll down to about midpage)... You can find it on Amazon for approximately $25 which is not cheap..... (simply Google "MVA6006 Extended Tube Kit")
02-01-2014, 04:23 AM
#440
Super Member
02-01-2014, 05:36 AM
#441
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06 s65 BiTurbo V-12
Mercedes Approved Oil Evacuation EquipmentMB DIY Techs, I am the owner of the Scavenger oil evacuation equipment from BDM engineering. I plan on releasing the product again after several years of relaxation. We have techs in Mercedes Benz dealers that have bein using the system since 1997. They are solid units made of stainless steel. Please visite the internet port called wayback machine and findwww.oilsucker.com*1998 to get a better view. You can contact me at 18583817923 David. The price is 349.00 pluse 16.00 shipping. They are 4.9 gallon units. Using 2.2 cfm of air with an included regulator you can use a tire air compressor. The system will suck cold diff fluid and will suck your engine oil in about 2-3 minutes faster than you can change the filter. I personally have 16 years as a diognostic tech for MB USA and this system was built for the abuse of a line tech. The first unit I still own put 7500 gallons of oil threw it every month for 6 months. You can not find a better unit almost 17 years later. This unit was made the correct way.*
02-02-2014, 05:53 PM
#446
Senior Member
Metal canisters allowed removal of fully warmed oil, that may damage the plastic extractors. There are lots of steel canistor extractors out there for commerical garages. I'm just a home DIY.
My INDY is doing the MBZ OFL with a car wash for $90 on my car using M1 ESP 229.51 approved oil, so it's no longer worth it do do OFL myself.
For my old 84 300D, I may need to do it myself, since I already have the oil and filter.
02-02-2014, 06:01 PM
#447
Senior Member
It's really hard to know what is really in synthetic oil with all the hype and what they can call synthetic.
Except in the extremes, I would rather have an excellent formulated reasonalble priced dino/isosyn oil than a similar priced group IV oil.
02-02-2014, 07:57 PM
#448
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'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
But what does that have to do with my question?
Also, focus more on the mfg performance specs that an oil meets rather than on what group its made of.
Also, focus more on the mfg performance specs that an oil meets rather than on what group its made of.
02-03-2014, 01:07 AM
#449
Senior Member
Pete, I am essentially agree with you. The formulation of the oil will be a big factor in the quality of the oil. Even a great quality oil may not be good for a particular enginee. MB 229.51 spec has 5W30 is a very thick 30 SAE oil and the 229.51 is a very thin 40 SAE oil - both with very low SAPS and zinc. Old engines that have an old 15W-45 spec. would not likely like the 229.51 5W-40 oil (even though this oil is about 3x the price of 15W-45 and the low SAPS and zinc. Also the claim of better than M1 is very general. M1 makes about a dozen different sub-brands with very different specs on actual viscosities and SAPS level.
02-03-2014, 09:27 AM
#450
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'08 C300 4Matic Sport, '02 530i
Also, 15w-45? Never heard of such a thing.
