dave2001auto

typo 15W-40 not 45 as originally typed.

For most good oil, better will be engine dependent and emission control dependent. Best for one car may ruin another car.

In a nut shell, use the approved oil that includes brand, formulation and weight, not just approved brand and weight.

See
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevoli...ets-sort1.html
and to see which ones are MB approved.
Beware mfg do change their formulation. Look on the bottle to see if they still met the MB specifications.

Pete7874

Yup. That's why I wrote...

What I meant by it was to use 229.5 approved oil if you have a gasoline engine and 229.51 approved oil if you have a diesel engine.

loudbimmer

quick question, on 2011 c300, how many quarts of oil does it take?

I went to advanced auto parts, and their computer showed that it needs 7.2 quarts, but this guide is saying that it needs 8.5.

dave2001auto

Your owner manual should list the oil capacity (how much) and viscosity needed.

Pete7874

RWD cars take around 8.5 qt. 4Matics take about 7.5 qt.

milltek

Hi,
Just wanted to add some information about my recent oil change. First, this thread is really a great help when you go to change the pile for the first time.

Anyway, using a MightyVac MV7400 I was only able to get around 4 - 4.5 liters out before it started sucking air. No matter how hard I pumped it just kept sucking air.

I re-examined this thread and saw that several people had made adaptors to seal the top of the oil dipstick tube to the MightVac plastic pipe. I ended up taking about three inches of Duct Tape and wrapping around the top of the dipstick tube and squeezing it tight to the thinner MightyVac tube.

A couple of quick pumps on the handle and all the rest of the oil came out. Worked a treat!!!

dave2001auto

How much more did you get out?
Try a 10 mm or 3/8" tanny/oil hose. It should fit snuggly into the dip stick tube and some silicone tape. The newer MBZ is designed with the DS tube all the way to the bottom of the oil pan, so a larger vacumn tube can be used to make the job faster.

milltek

I got another 3 - 4 liters out. Sorry about the somewhat vague numbers but I did not mark where the initial extraction stopped so I'm guessing a little.

Critter

Personally I like to drain mine under the car into a radiator tub with spout, when all the oil is finished dripping out then I replace the crush washer on the plug and tighten, then go to the cooler at the front of the car and drain out the rest from the drain, replace crush washer and tighten. Replace the filter while everything is draining and then pour 9.5 liter into the engine. Using the rad tub I pour the old oil into the used jugs that were just emptied and this gives me an idea of how much oil the car is burning. No guess work, simple. So far minimal oil consumption maybe 1/2 liter @ 5K mile oil change intervals, usually less than that.

Cillys

I bought this on Amazon. Even comes with an adapter that fits the dipstick tube with a rubber seal. Plus works great for other cars too utilizing their dipstick tube. Comes with various other adapters and tubes.

dave2001auto

Cillys. Amazing price over half off. A profession grade tool for under $250 What type of suction hose is used? Any reinforcing to prevent tube collapse from vacuuming the hot oil? Looks like it's fast with the large hose.

Cillys

Actually you hook it up to an air compressor and it creates a vacuum in the tank and then you open the valve and it sucks the oil from the dipstick tube. It discharges under low pressure. The hoses don't fail under the hot oil. It's very similar to Fluid Evacuators that purportedly the MB dealers use.

nyca

So you have to run your compressor to charge it, then use it to evacuate? Too much work, my marine unit that runs on 12V power is a one piece, compact unit that does it all - runs a pump off your battery, sucks the oil into a container using a diptube adapater shown elsewhere on this thread. So far, for what it costs, I have yet to see a setup that beat that for the occasional DIY user. IMHO of course.

dave2001auto

Lots of equipment in a garage is run off compressed air. The vacuum in the tank is created by air driven aspiration pump (a lot cheaper than a tradiational vacuum pump). After a few oil drains, the compressor is used to pressurize the tank and force the used oil out into a larger holding tank or drums. It's a really nice set up for large volume usage. It's not yet at my price point for a purchase.

nyca

I do 3 changes a year, which is more than the norm. But many people just do one change a year, so a compressor PLUS an evacuation unit is alot of gear for a DIYer for someone who does one change a year.

timham40

I bought The Man filter HU 514 X and the O-Rings were not correct. I had to stop what I was doing and head out to the MB dealer and bought the OEM version. This had the correct rubber O-Rings.

IF you care to see in the picture the Mann O-Rings are thicker the smallest of the 3 broke when I tried to put it on the


Any thoughts?

nyca

That's not the oil filter for the C250 - use the auto parts finder on amazon.com, it says that isn't the one.

C0d3Sp4c3

Ouch... for C250 it should be Mann HU514y and not HU514x

GMTK

Great read (took 2 hours). Thanks to all who contributed.

Two questions:

1. What is the proper torque for the drain plug?
2. What oil is recommended for South Texas during the summer?

I understand the suck vs. drain oil argument and don't want to re-hash it.
Also, I will change the oil again this fall, but want to make sure I have the proper oil for the summer, in Texas... (highs of 110 degrees...)

Pete7874

You can use something like M1 0w-40, regardless if you're in South Texas or Alaska, regardless if it's Summer or Winter.

Using different oils for summer/winter made sense some 30+ years ago. Nowadays, with the availability of high quality multigrade oils, there is no need.

harryh38

A cheap hand pump from e-bay,and old container, takes about 30 minutes to change the oil and filter on my C280 2008
The tolal cost for best 10-50 oil and filter £73 + pump £8
An easy and clean way to do an 8lt oil change via the dip stick access
Any body know why the EML comes on now and again if I delay the oil change but after the change it does not show? the oils not low and the car runs perfect.

DJ BIS

Some of the 4matic guys mentioned that the manual trans C300 was different when it came to sucking out the oil with a MityVac. In my experience I dealt with the same issue on a 2009 Manual RWD C300. I believe I was only able to draw about 7+ quarts by inserting the "straw" inside the stick and pushing/wiggling it in as much as I could.

So, no different than the 4matic engines. The straw still hits bottom or gets caught somewhere keeping it from extracting all the oil.

Need to read more so I can find an "over the tube" adaptor...

DJ BIS

THis is a perfect fit on a 2009 C300

superangrypenguin

This link is dead

http://www.fluidevacuators.com/mercedes.html

Where can we buy an adapter?

Thanks

Demvang

Here it is
http://www.fluidevacuators.com/produ...adapter-detail
Save yourself some $$$, use the rubber telescoping hose connector that comes with your fluid extractor. One end for hose, the other smaller end for dipstick tube.