thanks Acapulco Bill. I didnt realize the 60.9 were better speakers, I opted for 62.9 cause I saw others had used them and I have a terrific base box, boston acoustic G2 10" dual subs in a sealed boston box, with 1000 watts. It rocked in my 2008 w the HK system. I chose the 62.9 thinking they were better, plus had tweeters to give more highs to the mix. Im either gonna do another amp 4 channel to the highs or maybe do 60.9 in front and change the rear 62.9i to a different brand of 2 ways. Not having the HK is brutal once you've had it. Since others in your family have it you know what I mean. Im wondering what did u use in your rear doors for speakers? You did 60.9 in front and mounted the tweeters in the stock location?

also what sucks is teh 2011 does NOT have parametric equilizer in the engineering menu, there is nothing you can change for volume or any settings in it, this car has audio 50 which the dealer said is bose but the speakers were no name and the rear doors had same speakers as in teh pics in teh DIY that audio 20 owners had.

 

Hey Bill, where did you mount the X-over for the 60.9 speakers? I see they are pretty big in the pics on their site, Im curious as to your install

 

The dealer did the install, (of course I watched) hot-glued the xover into the bottom of the door frame under the woofer. It is large and weights more than the OEM speakers. Remember to leave the Xover on 0 db (NOT minus 6dB). You will have to take a Dremel tool and grind out the A-post front tweeter hole a bit to get the 60.9 tweeters to fit. I would leave the 62.9's in the rear, although the 6032si shallow mounts fit better. The 62.9 are supposedly 2 dB more sensitive than even the 60.9's.

Get your sub installed, and the 60.9's. Then wait about a week for the drivers to loosen-up. At least. This is NOT as surround system but a damn good two-channel. You will spend another $130 for the 60.9 at Amazon, but give them a try. The alternative of outboard amps (and then what speakers?, probably the 60.9 anyway), and just the amps plus the hassle of the install will run $800 for anything decent.

This underlines my point of looking for the best PRODUCT regardless of the BRAND.

 

I'd like to follow up that I had my install of the 60.9cs and 6032si with the Bass1500 done yesterday. The sound quality with the Infinity's is really a drastic improvement over the paper stock speakers. Huge difference, HUGE!

The Bass1500 however I'm not so pleased with. After fiddling with the adjustments for hours I found that if I turned the bass up to a point where you could actually hear it, my rear deck would rattle like mad. I mounted in the same place Bill did... I will probably look into something else.... such as a separate amp and 10" sub with a box.

 

Anyone know, but will the Infinity 6032cf fit the rear doors? (not the shallow mount)


Also, has anyone figured a better way to mount the aftermarket 60.9cs, which out cutting the factory speaker to bits, to get it to fit?

 

this new car has folding seats, the backing of them is thick and I had to remove the foam under the rear deck to get the bass as loud as my last C350. The sound comes in thru the grill on the rear deck in front of the power sunshade. I have 2 10" boston G2 with 1000w boston amp. Its just enuff to hit hard, I would need 4 boss things to be satisfied w that...

Acapulco Bill what did you use in your rear doors? Ive been looking around past 2 days and there are some nice 6.5 inch speakers out there and components that will let you mount the tweeter over the woofer if necessary. Im thinking of throwing the 62.9s in the spare pile and going with the 6090s or something like it.

 

I started messing with the EQ settings and now I cannot get back to the 2300 hz, it only goes up in 1000 at a time now. Anyone figure it out?

Also I was messing with the cross over, but it really didn't seem to work. I was just playing with it to filter out 300hz and below to see if it would remove the bass and it didn't.

When you guys did the 60.9cs upgrades, was the tweeter too bright? or not matched well due to it being up near the mirrors? What eq settings did you use?


Last question.
When you did the 60.9cs upgrade and the 6.5 shallows in the back. Did you loose all the base you had with the paper cone speakers.

 

@ccumato & jimmythegreek: The front woofers are factory installed with no consideration of an aftermarket replacement. Just pull (rip, actually) them out including the black foam surround and make sure the 60.9 woofers are well sealed in the mounting hole. Remember the phase and make a note of which lead goes "hot" for when you replace the rear speakers.

The tweeters of course you will need a Dremel to grind out a little of the black plastic to make them fit behind the mesh window grill. Well worth the effort though. Once broken in, and cranking them up until the soft clipping begins, my favorite tunes sound just like I remember them (in some cases as I actually engineered them for Columbia Records).

Some well recorded material can actually sounds better, the tweeters are so close and the sound is not dulled by reflections that a livingroom system always suffers. I use (and highly recommend) Apple lossless format or original CDs, as MP3 is a highly quality-compromised format, even maxed at 192 kbps.

As for the rears, the Infinity 6032si are shallow-mount and go right in, NOT the 6032cf which has a basket and magnet that's too deep. One could just leave the stock speakers in, but the timbre characteristics are very different, and I was glad to get the rears installed when adding the selfamplified subwoofer. But for jimmythegreek, if you already have the 62.9's in the rear, you can just leave them there, make sure the tweeter switch is at 0 dB and tilt the tweeters up as far as the mount will allow.

Here is the link on Amazon for the 6032si...
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Refer...4865043&sr=8-1

 

Thanks for all this feedback guys! Very helpful!

To the person who just had this installed with the Boss 1500, have you tried listening to the sytem without the Boss sub installed? How is the "bass" from the infinti speakers vs the stock paper speakers? I find that the stock paper speakers are pretty good as far as loudness or boominess goes, just wish it had a better frequency response range (if this is what it is called). Do the infiniti speakers lose this boominess and cause the system to sound "weak" unless I get an aftermarket sub?

Also @ Bill. I am a bit confused, I thoght it was reccommended to get the woofers with the tweeters in the center for the back doors (62.9i I believe) or is the general concensus now that the 6032si shallow woofers would be better? Don't shallow woofers not have as good of a sound?

 

hey ccumato, Im wondering where did you find EQ settings in your system? Im guessing you have audio 20 without the popup screen? In my 2011 with multimedia there is NO EQ settings or anything in the engineering mode. I played with it for hours and couldnt find anything. I saw teh pics put up way back in this thread and its not there. Can u tell me if and where the settings are in your 2011 and what head unit you have. (the pop up MM screen or the fixed one?) thanks again

 

@jctevere: Please get the 6032si for the back. shallow mount and go right in. Tilt the tweeter up and leave the switch on "0 dB".

Bass - now this is a whole thing. Most people mistake "bass" for second-harmonic distortion. The stock OEM speakers have lots of this distortion in the 150 - 600 Hz range, and although some may prefer this kind of sound, it is, frankly, just distortion.

The Infinity speakers, both the Infinity 60.9's and the 6032si, have very low bass distortion. The 60.9's in particular (I have a set sitting here in front of me as I write this) have a cone and dome manufactured from a sophisticated material, woven-glass-fiber with rubber surround, with a mesh-like imprint which both stiffens the cone and prevents waves traveling along the surface reducing both harmonic and phase distortion. Pretty neat, actually.

The 62.9's use the same woofer material, but may be too deep to put in the rear door easily. The 6032si has a polypropylene woofer where the material itself prevents resonances, however it is not as stiff as the woven-glass fiber. Both the 60.9 and the 62.9 are higher quality speakers than the HK Logic 7 system uses, even though Infinity is part of the HK group.

The upshot is that if you prefer audiophile-quality accurate, distortion free bass, then these speakers are for you. If you like the meaty, busy, "full" sound of the stock paper-cone speakers with a magnet structure the size of a half-dollar, then perhaps you would only be happy completing the setup with a subwoofer.

In any case, the highs the Infinity speakers provide are far superior: accurate, detailed, extended range and distortion free.

jimmythegreek wrote that he was unhappy with the 62.9's. For the FRONT they are NOT the speaker of choice because it is coaxial and the tweeter fires right into your ankle and thigh. The 60.9's have a separate tweeter which goes behind the mesh on the window frame, and are essential to obtaining good system performance, firing just inches from your face. For the rear, the 62.9 may actually be superior to the 6032si as they are 2 dB more efficient, although I have not heard them myself.

 

Thanks for the great information. I definitely want to upgrade speakers, I was just wondering if the sound from the new speakers would sound "tin-like" without a separate subwoofer (which I hate) or if it was well balanced without a separate sub. I fully intend on adding an aftermarket sub, but might not do it for a short while after I get the kappa's installed, and I don't want to be annoyed by the sound system during those couple of months.

Pretty much I just want loud, crisp, and good bass feeling (not to be heard from 1/2 away, but enough to feel the vibrations in your seat (which the stock paper speakers do) but I want better frequency response than the stock speakers (espcially lower).

 

The 62.9i went in easily into the back doors. I left the stock surround on and hacked out the stock speaker and remounted into the stock ring. I 3M taped the crossover to the bottom of the speaker magnet and theres room for the glass. you can use any 6.5 speaker in the back, I dont think shallow mount is necessary. Now I listen to mainly pop, r and b, hip hop, so I like bass. At 3/4 volume the system sounds good with 62.9 in both doors and the bass bumps. But I had HK audio in my last car and could turn it to full volume and it was perfect and crisp, and louder too actually. My subs have plenty of bass, so I went coax in both doors and left the stock tweeters in too, trying to make alot of highs to balance the subs bass. I feel like the crossover is garbage in the 62.9i cause its too boomy, its not punchy bass its boomy, it should be cutting that low bass out and leaving it to the subs. The 62.9 have a pigtail w Xover attached so there was no way to hack it or adjust in favor of another. I been looking around and theres other 2ohm 6.5" speakers out there that are better than infinity but theyre 300+. I got the 62.9 for 160 for 2 pairs from a guy here in NJ that wholesales so I didnt sweat it. I didnt realize the 6090 was 2X the price and better, I would of went with that. After some research I see even an efficient 4ohm speaker can be as good and loud, so Im gonna try something different up front maybe. I would prefer to not modify the tweeter housing so I may go w a true 1" tweeter component set up front, and change out the backs too. Now that my system is wired I could change just teh speaker out in 10 min, the interior is easy to pull once you do it......

 

@jctevere: Recommend spending the $190 on the 60.9 plus 6032si first. Break them in for a week or two (40 hours of use is the norm) and use the standard tone controls and afterwards the parametric equalizer to tune the bass (but know what you are doing).

If thats not enough, another $150 will get you a number of subwoofers, someone just asked me about this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Bassl...4873085&sr=1-1

BUT at 14 x 17 x 18 inches it is 5 times the size of the Boss Bass600 or even the Boss Bass1500. Plus you would drive the sound into the trunk as it has a woofer plus a passive radiator. Huge sound, but yes down the block, not into the cabin of the C.

The same would be true of a Bazooka, only the Boss subs fit so neatly under the rear shelf.

 

@jimmythegreek: First the 62.9s fire the tweeter into your thigh NOT YOUR EARS. You are missing the highs and spatial stereo references in the front, the 60.9's have a separate tweeter that go where the factory tweeter is located behind the mesh in the window frame. Highs right in your face, nice and clean. 60.9's $130 a pair from Amazon. Two woofers, two tweeters and two huge crossovers, hot glue them to the bottom inside of the door.

The 62.9's from Amazon run $126 for TWO pairs (sorry!). Keep the 62.9's in the rear, Crutchfield says they dont fit, but now we know they do, thanks. They are a superior speaker to the 6032si. maybe I will get a pair of the 62.9's and swap them out.

Read my above post #164 about subwoofers.

 

Funny you should ask, the bass from the Infinitys is great. The Bass1500 doesn't add pretty much anything, and even with it disconnected the door speakers (front & rear) provide plenty of clean bass (just not SUPER seat rattling bass). The frequency response is not even comparable to the stock POS speakers.

In my opinion the Bass1500 was a total waste of money... All it does is vibrate my deck and adds almost nothing.

 

@mwaldron: jimmythegreek states that the Infinity 62.9 coaxials will fit in the rear doors. They are a superior speaker to the 6032si and may match better with the 60.9's.

As for the question "how much bass is enough?", I feel that it´s like SALT. Just enough enhances the flavor, too much and it's ruined. The smaller Boss Bass600 balances the 60.9's/6032/62.9 bass nicely but gives that extra "texture" and "oomph" on that last 2 octaves from 25-100 Hz. Its OK for me.

The Boss Bass600 (and Bass1500) has both a low pass AND a high pass filter, perhaps they were set wrong - for maximum bandwidth set the high-pass filter to 20 Hz and the low-pass filter to 150 Hz.

 

Wait, INSIDE the door, or beneath the woofer on the skin of the door? The area inside the door gets really wet...

 

DrTodd, think about all the electronics and speakers inside your doors, your speakers would rot away if it was wet in there.

And yes Bill, the 62.9 fit fine into the rear doors using the stock mount the factory speakers are in. You just got to hack the factory speakers and mount inside of them. Theres a DIY in the DIY thread list. They dont sound half bad at 3/4 volume, but even w the bass set at -4 they bump too much with the factory Xover and the sub box can do that work, they need to work on midrange and highs, not low end bass, thats where they get really sloppy. Im thinking about going with JL audios up front and in back, or maybe the 6090s, and if it doesnt get cleaned up Ill get an amp and bite the bullet

 

Haha seriously? Ok take off your door panel, pull the woofer out, put a paper towel or something in there, close the door, and spray the bottom of the window real good with the hose, simulating a hard rain. Then tell me I'm wrong

 

On to the next question.

I have a fuse box in the back right of my trunk. Does this mean that I can tap in there somewhere to get a power wire for my amp/sub? Also I have the base model without folding rear seats. How can I run left and right rear channel to get them into the trunk?

 

@jimmythegreek: the Jl Audio C2-650 have separate tweeter, woofer and xover. However this speaker is less efficient and would require double the amplifier power (not available in the Audio20) for the same output as the 60.9's and triple the amplifier power for the same output as the 62.9. The consideration is to maximize the sound with the 20-25 WPC available in the Audio20 headunit.

Question: are you using original CDs, or an MP3 player? You may actually be hearing the compression distortion created with MP3 encoding, more apparent in the bass, and exposed with a quality driver like the 62.9. I have found no distortion at any frequency of the 60.9s and 6032si, the Audio20 begins soft clipping long before these speakers are capable of mechanically distorting.

 

I have a good friend that runs CDTAUDIO.com. They are very high end speakers and have used their high end with an amp, and won a couple SQ competitions.

I called ken today, and he recommended the CL-62 PRO. 4 Tweeters and 2 MID

1 pr CL-6 6.5” mid woofer
1 pr EX-484 24dB 4th/5th order 2-way crossover
1 pr TW-25 1” silk tweeter
1 pr WS-100i 1" upstage tweeter
Power handling: 180 watt RMS @ high-pass 120Hz.
Frequency response: 55Hz-20.000Hz
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Sensitivity:92.3dB
Mounting depth 6.5” woofer 2 3/4”
Flush and surface tweeter housings

I explained that we only had about 20Watts RMS and he said it would sound better than the infinity 60.9cs

 

I'm surprised to hear that the 2011 does not have the parametric equilizer. From personal experience I can say it made a major difference in tailoring the sound to one's preference. I started this thread and posted all of my experiences with the Infinity install and could not be happier with them. The highs are clean and crisp and the bass is clear and strong (not boomy).

 

@ccumato: personally I dont like soft dome tweeters, especially in automobile sound applications because the temperature and humidity conditions are so extreme.

Power handling vs frequency response: CDT says the speakers run down to 55 Hz (missing an octave, don't you think?) and THEN they say that their power is rated only ABOVE 120 Hz. Never heard of that. Ever.

Good efficiency at 92 dB. However, the impedance is 4 ohms, versus the Infinity's impedance of 2 ohms (which effectively gets 40 - 50 watts out of the Audio 20) plus they are slightly more efficient. Meaning that the Infinity 60.9 will play 4dB louder than the CDT, and anyone who has double-blind listener-tested speakers knows that just a 1 dB difference will be perceived as "better". In fact, this was demonstrated on a sound stage with three pairs of speakers, but only one pair was connected. Listeners were asked to vote for "A", "B" or "C" as their favorite, thinking they were listening to three different speakers. In reality they were all listening to speaker "B" played at -1, 0 and +1 dB differences. Of course EVERYONE chose the +1 speaker. Imagine with +4 dB?

Besides the CDT woofer cone material is still just coated paper. How stiff will that be in six months after rainwater collects in the bottom of the door? The Infinity use woven glass fibre, its waterproof & mildew proof.

And the crossover. A 4th order crossover is a Linkwitz–Riley, and a 5th order is something else. Which is it, 4th or 5th? Anyway, at 24 dB/octave, it means that the CDT tweeter can't handle much excursion below its crossover point. 18 dB/octave should be sufficiently steep. And it looks like the installer has to grind off the flange around the tweeter for the W204. The 60.9 tweeters are completely cylindrical.

Besides the CDT's price, why shell out $350. That's enough for almost three pairs of 60.9's from Amazon.

IMO.