ElJayBird

Agreed - those posts are exactly the reason I sent the Sports back and ordered the Super Sports.

NOTICE TO ANYONE ELSE ON THE FENCE ABOUT THIS: Don't do it - your car will ride like ***. Go with a mild drop or coilovers. The people saying it's as good as stock are high.

victort

the ride also depends on where you're from also. I recall reading something about you driving on la roads and there's no way it is going to ride like stock on our roads. however, I notice most highways on the east coast are much smoother than here so there probably wont be much of a difference

caligreenzzz

you should have, but even then you would prob find something else to complain about...

ElJayBird

That's doubtful. I have only two complaints. My car is slow. It rides like ***. That is all. But if you just enjoy being a dick, hey that's cool too - have fun.

Sportstick

Both of you...step back before this escalates.

ElJayBird

Honestly, I was blessed (cursed?) with an unreasonably sarcastic sense of humor...it doesn't always translate well in text.


...or in person for that matter.

Domm

Nice save

Sportstick

Humor is fine. Name calling is an instant disqualifier....

Let's move on......

rb23lb

would have never done it if i didn't hear so many "go with the Super Sport!!! You won't regret it!!" type responses...

figured coil overs would only give better performance and not really much more comfort....

whatever. I always get it right in the end... just another setback/learning experience

agedog2gt

Why am i not surprised? Here he goes with his 4x4 tactic again..

kevink2

Originally Posted by kevink2 (Black)
Reply by rb23lb (Red)
Reply2 by kevink2 (Blue)

I think the problem is either:

1) running out of downward shock travel, or

How do I run out of downward shock travel if I am doing what others did and using SS on stock shocks? Do you mean that the installation was botched and this is not normal?

You CAN run out of downward shock travel, as oem shocks have the total travel about centered on the installed shock. When you install low-rider/drop-springs, the oem shock is now centered about 1.5" lower than before, taking up some/most of the downward motion capacity oft the oem shock. Bilsteins are designed to allow 30mm lower ride height, and are made for drop-springs.

2) riding too hard on the bump stops.

How do I not "ride hard"? Do you mean put back the 13mm instead of the 8mm?

The 13mm helps a bit. You ride hard on the rubber stops if they are compressed during normal running, instead of having the normal gap that delays contact until the springs are compressed about an inch or so.

Both have been mentioned before by others, I recall. Adding spacers would help both problems, sacraficing some drop but keeping the very stiff springs.

How do "spacers" sacrafice drop? Don't spacers just widen the wheel base? I was thinking about adding 5mm spacers to the rear just so they sit more flush...

My bad. By spacers, I meant the upper contoured cushion that the spring is seated into (and not wheel spacers). These come in various thicknesses, and by increasing the thickness, you are effectively "lifting" the car a bit, based on the added thickness.

Also, check with H&R if they have a suggested method of shortening (cutting) the bump cushions. They may be mounted on the body, or on top of the struts. Before you dropped it, there was a gap to these rubber, cylindrical cushions during normal ride. But if you rode over a dip or mild pothole, these cushions had a soft initial spring rate to work with the springs (in parallel) to absorb the bump.

I watched my friend put the new REAR H&R spring right back into the new bump stop 5mm cushion, right where the old one was... What do you mean, before it was dropped, there was a "gap"???

Actually, it would be impossible to see this gap, since the bump cushion is located on the rear shock shaft, which is covered by the upper sleeve of the shock. See related parts in this link, and bumper #2 is inside of shield #3.

>> http://www.mercedespartscenter.com/p...iagram=5777384

Same pic of front suspension (bump cusion also not visible) :

>> http://www.mercedespartscenter.com/p...iagram=5777184




Official DIY install thread:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...g-springs.html

H&R Spring Listings for C300, C350 (same sets)

>> http://www.hrsprings.com/scripts/app...ind3&MakeID=25


A quick way to see how close you are to overloading these bump cushings due to loss of upward wheel motion:

1) make four stacks of three or four 1"x6" x 10" boards.
2) use a floor jack to place each stack under each wheel
3) using a floor jack and a 2X4" x 8" pine board, gently lift under the lower control arms as close to the ball joint(s) as possible. If you can't get much higher than normal ride height before it lifts at another wheel, then you are crushing the bump cushions too soon.

.

kevink2

The 30K+ miles on the oem tires(?) would leave you with minimal tread to absorb small irregularities on the flat road. And the rubber bump cushions were not trimmed with these super-drop springs, perhaps limiting his rebound capacity with a false max rebound.

I also think the installer did not let the suspension settle in the laden condition before torqueing rubber-bushed pivots, locking in torsional preload.

All this with dual rate springs (aka progressive), with a near oem rate before they bind into a much stiffer spring. Eibach has a nice video about sport drop vs super drop springs, similar to the H&R spring options:

http://performancesuspension.eibach....t_vs_sportline

.

RLE

...How do "spacers" sacrafice drop? Don't spacers just widen the wheel base? I was thinking about adding 5mm spacers to the rear just so they sit more flush.....

We are having terminology problems here.

Spacers are mounted on the hub to widen the track which is the distance between the rear tire centers.

The rubber pads atop the rear springs are spring pads, not spacers.

The distance between the front and rear wheel centers is the wheelbase.

Cosworth2000

I have had springs installed with my of my cars. The last was my Mazda 6 and with many people lowering their cars I decided what I really wanted when it came to drive control and appearance.

That being said, I know that in the industry H&R springs are one of the lowest drop springs on the market for all cars. If you want to lower a car without pushing the limits of the stock components I would normally go with eibach

I did this for my 6 where I was on eibach pro kit and Koni yellow controlled dampers.

It seems that H&R is not a good fit for our cars (MB) ... who is running a eibach setup with stock shocks?

I know that in my 2012 C350 the dampers are self adjusting so I was wondering if putting on lower springs with cause any undue stress to the system?

I would like my ride to be lower as it does not look as low as others C350 that I have seen. :-(

As for ride comfort...you will have less shock travel and it will be a harder ride but you may only feel this harder ride when you hit surface bumps on the road.

If you are bouncing, you need to do an outside bounce test.

Stand outside your car, and bounce on it. See if it absorbs or if it continues to keep going. If after you bounce on it and it levels out after 2 returns then your suspension is fine.

All in all H&R are softer springs in the industry but also the lowest in the industry.

Eibach is by far a better quality spring with one of the best spring rates in the industry.

caligreenzzz

really??? im loving my H&R Super Sports....

itsLoonie

Different strokes for different folks

Sportstick

A shock absorber joke! Strut your stuff Loonie! Well done, sir!

kevink2

Good to hear. A few Q's:

1) what's your full name and current place of residence <---- just a joke


1) what size wheels/tires
2) did you change shocks from oem
3) did you change shocks well before, during, or well after spring install
4) how many miles on odo when SS springs installed.
4) if oem shocks, did you modify/cut the rubber bump-stop bushings on the shocks ( hidden by front bellows and rear outer dust shield )

5) did you change thickness of front or rear spring top cushions
6) what installed thicknesses of F&R cushions

Just need to find out what a happy H&R SS rider had done. Thanx for your reply.


Also, at 424 posts, you and others on this thread (with even less posts) are considered "newbies", and need to clarify your situation so others know your point of reference:




______________ *** All Members, New and some Old *** _______________

please click on User CP at the top left of page, just below the thread title. Then add the following to either Profile and/or Signature , selecting buttons on the left side of that page:

year, model, if it's a diesel, Sport or Lux, 4MATIC or RWD, Location (city & state), and non-US country if applicable.

This helps others respond to issues, like tires, spring options, part sales, etc. Thanx

.

caligreenzzz

i would agree, maybe its the crappy roads???

Scat01

[QUOTE=ElJayBird;5262234]Honestly, I was blessed (cursed?) with an unreasonably sarcastic sense of humor...it doesn't always translate well in text.


...or in person for that matter.[/QUOTE


Maybe so, but he is a little turd, a majority of his posts are some sort of negative knock on someone...so you were right...

Sportstick

[quote=Scat01;5263206]Scat01: This is unacceptable language. Please do not repeat using derogatory names, no matter what you think of another poster. Further use of name calling will require an escalated response.

kevink2

This is the drop-spring install details for a Mazdaspeed6, which has a similar strut front and remote shock rear suspension, including bump stops.

If the H&R Super Sport springs were not installed with extra travel shocks or modified bump stops, a nasty ride as described by the OP will follow.

http://forum.mazda6club.com/speed6-s...ml#post2838608

.

tanktube67

If your suspension feels bouncy you need new shock.

kevink2

As I just said, new shocks OR modified bump cushions. I bet the installers did not look at the instructions, that should have noted this cutting of the stops.

rb23lb

Wow! I had my buddy just follow these instructions:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...g-springs.html

Nowhere did this "trusted" DIY mention that you need to "cut any bump stops"

For all of you scores and scores of people that installed the H&R super sport springs.... Did you ALL cut your bump stops????

If this is really what needs to be done to fix the problem and everybody else did it... Then I will just do this instead of buying coil overs or new shocks....

Can anybody please verify or weigh in if the majority of people actually did cut their bump stops?? In all the threads I read, nowhere did I find anybody talking about this....