You'll only need one sensor so its fine

Only one sensor is required (one each for the front and rears), I ordered Akebono EUR pads and they came with two sensors. BTW the Akebono pads are great, very little brake dust, and they stop on a dime. Good luck....

Awesome write up!!! Just wanted to add one thing didn't see it in your DIY. Don't know if you left it out for simplicity or if aftermarket doesn't supply it. There are two metal clips in the cradle that the pads slide into they should be replaced also the pads should be snug. My friend made it a point to tell me this cause he sees it all the time at the dealership . When they are not the pads move and sweak or the back pad can crack. He only deals with oem and says it only takes a second when you have the pads out so why wouldn't you unless they don't come with the other ones? You can see one in pic 5 and both in pic 8

Great DIY. One thing to note that may affect some.
When retracting your calipers, you should remove the cap on the brake master cylinder to allow the fluid to push back easier. If you are doing all four wheels or if someone has "topped off" the brake fluid you may need to remove a bit of brake fluid to keep from overflowing all over everything. Use a turkey baster or something similar. Don't remove too much yet (down to the max line) as it will take some fluid to push the pads back against the rotors the first time out.

its normal

can the rear brakes disc on a c350 fit on a c300 sport please someone help me with this because the rear brake disc on a C300 sport sucks

fwiw when you remove the calipers, try zip ties to hang them from the springs or other suspension component. It prevents you accidently knocking them over while maneuvering the rotors.

Doing my front brakes on my '12 250, bought the Akebono's and Centric drilled rotors. What is the best break in procedure?

Anybody offer impressions of these rotors if you have used them?

@theruleslawyer, thanks for the zipty tip.

Typical bedding procedure is something like-
Take 4-5 45-5mph runs in a parking lot. Brake hard, but don't come to a complete stop. You should probably get the the point where you feel the brakes starting to fade. After you do this you need to let the brakes cool. Either you can drive at a high speed (highway, etc) where you won't have to stop or you can park it. If you park it don't use the brakes to come to a complete stop. Shift to N at low speed and apply the parking brake to stop. Once your brakes are cool you can use them normally. The point of not stopping completely is it can leave a ridge of semi-melted pad material on the rotor that will cause pulsing. It's important to plan where you are going to let it cool before starting so you don't end up having to stop.

@theruleslawyer, thanks again..

Great write up

Just a couple quick questions.

1) Usually rear brakes last a lot longer than the front. Is this the case with the C250? My "check brake pad" light just came on and am wondering if it's just the fronts or both.

2) I've got ZERO shimmy when braking, will I still need to replace the rotors? Usually when I need brakes my rotors are warped but since this isn't the case I thought I'd check.

Sorry to ask these questions but am guessing I'll have to order these parts on line and want to get the order right the first time.

My fronts wore out, and the rears still almost look new. (maybe an issue there) My front rotors had a bit of a lip around the outide. It was measurable, so that was a good indicator to change them out. You can see what I purchased in my post above, and I love them.

Is there 1 sensor for each wheel?

I don't know if it's different for your car, but for a 2008 c300, only two sensors are required... one sensor for the front and one for the rear.


Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open?

On other cars i have changed my own brakes on I don't open the bleeder valve, i take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, opening the bleeder valve without hooking up a hose with brake fluid in it might actually cause it suck in air.

Yea, opening the bleeder valve will definitely suck in air. To avoid bleeding the brake lines you would just compress the caliper pistons without opening the bleeder valves. I was just wondering if people don't open the bleeder valves on these cars when compressing the piston because of not wanting to bleed the lines or if it just really doesn't make a difference.

I just don't want to run the risk of damaging the abs unit on my mom's car.

one thing when you remove the reservoir cap and compress the calipers your reservoir may overflow. make sure you wash it off before it destroys your paintwork

Changed my front pads and rotors today. And only the passenger side had a sensor. The Akebono pads i ordered came with 2 sensors so i guess i have an extra one now.

I used Centric Rotors and Akebono Ceramic Pads.

remove the cap on the master cylinder ...

I have a C300 4Matic (4-door). Are front and back Rotors are different? I want to get the Drilled version but it's getting really confusing.
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though).

Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)?

I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled).

Rear rotors are not ventilated and thus are much different from the front ones
drilled rotors are not necessary
Here are the part numbers of non sports/amg model rear rotors
124 423 0512,
124 423 0612,
124 423 1012,
201 423 0512,
210 423 0412,
210 423 0912,



Have a look here http://www.rexbo.eu/mercedes/c-class...e-discs-100626

Check out TireRack.com, i bought some there before. they are reasonable, and shipping is pretty quick.

where is a good source to buy front rotors for 2008 C350 sport? tirerack only has the left and says they are uni-directional. Looking for a place that has both front rotors and pads together.

Hi All,

I bought a set of brake pads and rotors for my 2010 C300 4Matic, watched the youtube video and started to change them (starting from rear brakes).
I replaced the rear ones really easy and then I removed the tire is front and realized it's nothing close to rear (or the youtube video). Pictures in initial post are dead links too (maybe it's explained there).
I am attaching pictures of front driver side to this email. Would you please let me know what are the steps to replace them. I see 18mm screw there and should I find a huge Trix and open those four in back?


Thanks,

Homer

Refer to my post in the following thread. Pretty straight forward, but my caliper carriers have std 18mm bolts vs the Torx ones on yours. shouldn't matter, though. Same process.

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ke-change.html