Jun 4, 2015, 07:26 PM
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DIY - Brake pad and rotor replacement. W204 C300 C250
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 410
Likes: 2
From: Orlando FL
2009 C300 4Matic Sport
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2009 C300 Sport 4Matic
Only one sensor is required (one each for the front and rears), I ordered Akebono EUR pads and they came with two sensors. BTW the Akebono pads are great, very little brake dust, and they stop on a dime. Good luck....
Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 245
Likes: 0
From: Northern Cali
2011 W204 C300 mm pano
Awesome write up!!! Just wanted to add one thing didn't see it in your DIY. Don't know if you left it out for simplicity or if aftermarket doesn't supply it. There are two metal clips in the cradle that the pads slide into they should be replaced also the pads should be snug. My friend made it a point to tell me this cause he sees it all the time at the dealership . When they are not the pads move and sweak or the back pad can crack. He only deals with oem and says it only takes a second when you have the pads out so why wouldn't you unless they don't come with the other ones? You can see one in pic 5 and both in pic 8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 2,601
Likes: 28
From: Atlanta, GA
2008 C300 Sport 6 Speed Manual, 1953 Chevy Bel-Air, 2015 Audi allroad, 1963 Chevy Apache
Great DIY. One thing to note that may affect some.
When retracting your calipers, you should remove the cap on the brake master cylinder to allow the fluid to push back easier. If you are doing all four wheels or if someone has "topped off" the brake fluid you may need to remove a bit of brake fluid to keep from overflowing all over everything. Use a turkey baster or something similar. Don't remove too much yet (down to the max line) as it will take some fluid to push the pads back against the rotors the first time out.
When retracting your calipers, you should remove the cap on the brake master cylinder to allow the fluid to push back easier. If you are doing all four wheels or if someone has "topped off" the brake fluid you may need to remove a bit of brake fluid to keep from overflowing all over everything. Use a turkey baster or something similar. Don't remove too much yet (down to the max line) as it will take some fluid to push the pads back against the rotors the first time out.
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2012 C250
Anybody offer impressions of these rotors if you have used them?
@theruleslawyer, thanks for the zipty tip.
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Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 402
Likes: 6
C350
Typical bedding procedure is something like-
Take 4-5 45-5mph runs in a parking lot. Brake hard, but don't come to a complete stop. You should probably get the the point where you feel the brakes starting to fade. After you do this you need to let the brakes cool. Either you can drive at a high speed (highway, etc) where you won't have to stop or you can park it. If you park it don't use the brakes to come to a complete stop. Shift to N at low speed and apply the parking brake to stop. Once your brakes are cool you can use them normally. The point of not stopping completely is it can leave a ridge of semi-melted pad material on the rotor that will cause pulsing. It's important to plan where you are going to let it cool before starting so you don't end up having to stop.
Take 4-5 45-5mph runs in a parking lot. Brake hard, but don't come to a complete stop. You should probably get the the point where you feel the brakes starting to fade. After you do this you need to let the brakes cool. Either you can drive at a high speed (highway, etc) where you won't have to stop or you can park it. If you park it don't use the brakes to come to a complete stop. Shift to N at low speed and apply the parking brake to stop. Once your brakes are cool you can use them normally. The point of not stopping completely is it can leave a ridge of semi-melted pad material on the rotor that will cause pulsing. It's important to plan where you are going to let it cool before starting so you don't end up having to stop.
Last edited by TheRulesLawyer; Apr 7, 2014 at 04:42 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa, Ontario
2012 C250 Coupe
Great write up 
Just a couple quick questions.
1) Usually rear brakes last a lot longer than the front. Is this the case with the C250? My "check brake pad" light just came on and am wondering if it's just the fronts or both.
2) I've got ZERO shimmy when braking, will I still need to replace the rotors? Usually when I need brakes my rotors are warped but since this isn't the case I thought I'd check.
Sorry to ask these questions but am guessing I'll have to order these parts on line and want to get the order right the first time.
Just a couple quick questions.
1) Usually rear brakes last a lot longer than the front. Is this the case with the C250? My "check brake pad" light just came on and am wondering if it's just the fronts or both.
2) I've got ZERO shimmy when braking, will I still need to replace the rotors? Usually when I need brakes my rotors are warped but since this isn't the case I thought I'd check.
Sorry to ask these questions but am guessing I'll have to order these parts on line and want to get the order right the first time.
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2012 C250
Great write up
Just a couple quick questions.
1) Usually rear brakes last a lot longer than the front. Is this the case with the C250? My "check brake pad" light just came on and am wondering if it's just the fronts or both.
2) I've got ZERO shimmy when braking, will I still need to replace the rotors? Usually when I need brakes my rotors are warped but since this isn't the case I thought I'd check.
Sorry to ask these questions but am guessing I'll have to order these parts on line and want to get the order right the first time.
Just a couple quick questions.
1) Usually rear brakes last a lot longer than the front. Is this the case with the C250? My "check brake pad" light just came on and am wondering if it's just the fronts or both.
2) I've got ZERO shimmy when braking, will I still need to replace the rotors? Usually when I need brakes my rotors are warped but since this isn't the case I thought I'd check.
Sorry to ask these questions but am guessing I'll have to order these parts on line and want to get the order right the first time.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
c300
I don't know if it's different for your car, but for a 2008 c300, only two sensors are required... one sensor for the front and one for the rear.
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open?
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open?
Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
C250 2012
I don't know if it's different for your car, but for a 2008 c300, only two sensors are required... one sensor for the front and one for the rear.
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open?
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open?
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
c300
I just don't want to run the risk of damaging the abs unit on my mom's car.
Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
C250 2012
I don't know if it's different for your car, but for a 2008 c300, only two sensors are required... one sensor for the front and one for the rear.
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open?
Anyways, I am about to change the brake pads on my mom's 2008 c300 and I've been reading up on some DIYs and watching a couple YouTube videos just to familiarize myself with her car. I noticed that no one mentioned opening the bleeder valve while compressing the caliper pistons. Is it safe no compress the caliper piston while not having the bleeder valve open?
I used Centric Rotors and Akebono Ceramic Pads.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2010 C300 4Matic
Trying to find correct Rotors
I have a C300 4Matic (4-door). Are front and back Rotors are different? I want to get the Drilled version but it's getting really confusing.
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though).
Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)?
I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled).
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though).
Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)?
I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled).
Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 197
Likes: 1
From: Australia
C220 CDI SLK 200
I have a C300 4Matic (4-door). Are front and back Rotors are different? I want to get the Drilled version but it's getting really confusing.
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though).
Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)?
I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled).
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though).
Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)?
I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled).
drilled rotors are not necessary
Here are the part numbers of non sports/amg model rear rotors
124 423 0512,
124 423 0612,
124 423 1012,
201 423 0512,
210 423 0412,
210 423 0912,
Have a look here http://www.rexbo.eu/mercedes/c-class...e-discs-100626
Last edited by Big Daddy; Sep 28, 2014 at 07:51 PM.
Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 129
Likes: 1
From: So Cal
2012 C250
I have a C300 4Matic (4-door). Are front and back Rotors are different? I want to get the Drilled version but it's getting really confusing.
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though).
Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)?
I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled).
For instance on Amazon (trying really hard to buy everything from there) shows "Bosch 36010991" as Rear rotor but on other sites it shows as Front Only (I know that left and right are the same for all brands though).
Can someone please point me to anywhere to buy decent all 4 rotors for up to around $85 each (all Drilled)?
I went to OReilly today. They had BrakeBest but not sure if it's any good (and Rear ones not Drilled).
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
2010 C300 4Matic
Help Please: Replacing Front Brakes and Rotors
Hi All,
I bought a set of brake pads and rotors for my 2010 C300 4Matic, watched the youtube video and started to change them (starting from rear brakes).
I replaced the rear ones really easy and then I removed the tire is front and realized it's nothing close to rear (or the youtube video). Pictures in initial post are dead links too (maybe it's explained there).
I am attaching pictures of front driver side to this email. Would you please let me know what are the steps to replace them. I see 18mm screw there and should I find a huge Trix and open those four in back?
Thanks,
Homer
I bought a set of brake pads and rotors for my 2010 C300 4Matic, watched the youtube video and started to change them (starting from rear brakes).
I replaced the rear ones really easy and then I removed the tire is front and realized it's nothing close to rear (or the youtube video). Pictures in initial post are dead links too (maybe it's explained there).
I am attaching pictures of front driver side to this email. Would you please let me know what are the steps to replace them. I see 18mm screw there and should I find a huge Trix and open those four in back?
Thanks,
Homer
Super Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
C300 Sport 6MT
Refer to my post in the following thread. Pretty straight forward, but my caliper carriers have std 18mm bolts vs the Torx ones on yours. shouldn't matter, though. Same process.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ke-change.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ke-change.html
