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DIY - Facelift Tail Lights
10-09-2012, 10:19 PM
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DIY - Facelift Tail Lights
The original post that I found the tail lights from is this:
Now... to the DIY!
This is what worked for me, and I believe you can finish this DIY in less than 45 minutes even for a first timer.
0) Pull off the two covers for the first aid and fuse box
1) Remove the keeper pin and keeper from the trunk carpet. This is the only pin like this you will need to remove. (See picture for which pin)
2a) Remove the keeper pin from the hook on both sides of the trunk and then pull out the hook. Pull the pin from BOTH SIDES, STRAIGHT out. I have a feeling if you don't, it will break the pin. You will need to use force to get both the pin and the hook out.
2b) You can peel back the carpet to get a good view of the 4 bolts/nuts. You have plenty of room to work with once you pull the carpet out from under the black weather stripping.
3) Remove the tail light connector.
4) From here, you will have access to the inside of the tail light. Unscrew the (4) nuts holding it in place, making sure to note that the biggest winged nut goes on the slot. All the others are the same.
5) Work the tail light out by pushing a little bit on each bolt showing through to break it loose and shimmy it out by pushing little by little on each bolt. Rotate through the bolts while pushing, it should break free and come out easily.
6) Stick in the tail light. Mine fit perfectly. Be sure to not pinch the connectors or anything between the tail light and the tail light housing. This will cause the tail light to not seat properly (obviously).
7) Fasten the nuts starting with the 3 identical ones and then tighten the slotted winged nut last. Don't over tighten - you could crack the tail light.
8) Connect the connectors. ON THIS PARTICULAR TAIL LIGHT the brown wire was the ground, so I matched the brown wire with side with the black wires on the existing tail light female connector.
9) Test everything.
10) Do the other side
Note:
- When doing the passenger side, be sure to not touch the trunk light once you get access to internals. It burns!
- You can plug the tail light in without even removing the existing one to ensure that it will work.
Edit:
When the link stops working: the tail lights were purchased from dotcomracing from ebay, part number: DC-LT-BW20408RCLED-APC
http://www.ebay.com/itm/08-11-BENZ-W...5d0a1c&vxp=mtr
they look decent, eh??? Anyone have these yet?
they look decent, eh??? Anyone have these yet?
This is what worked for me, and I believe you can finish this DIY in less than 45 minutes even for a first timer.
0) Pull off the two covers for the first aid and fuse box
1) Remove the keeper pin and keeper from the trunk carpet. This is the only pin like this you will need to remove. (See picture for which pin)
2a) Remove the keeper pin from the hook on both sides of the trunk and then pull out the hook. Pull the pin from BOTH SIDES, STRAIGHT out. I have a feeling if you don't, it will break the pin. You will need to use force to get both the pin and the hook out.
2b) You can peel back the carpet to get a good view of the 4 bolts/nuts. You have plenty of room to work with once you pull the carpet out from under the black weather stripping.
3) Remove the tail light connector.
4) From here, you will have access to the inside of the tail light. Unscrew the (4) nuts holding it in place, making sure to note that the biggest winged nut goes on the slot. All the others are the same.
5) Work the tail light out by pushing a little bit on each bolt showing through to break it loose and shimmy it out by pushing little by little on each bolt. Rotate through the bolts while pushing, it should break free and come out easily.
6) Stick in the tail light. Mine fit perfectly. Be sure to not pinch the connectors or anything between the tail light and the tail light housing. This will cause the tail light to not seat properly (obviously).
7) Fasten the nuts starting with the 3 identical ones and then tighten the slotted winged nut last. Don't over tighten - you could crack the tail light.
8) Connect the connectors. ON THIS PARTICULAR TAIL LIGHT the brown wire was the ground, so I matched the brown wire with side with the black wires on the existing tail light female connector.
9) Test everything.
10) Do the other side
Note:
- When doing the passenger side, be sure to not touch the trunk light once you get access to internals. It burns!
- You can plug the tail light in without even removing the existing one to ensure that it will work.
Edit:
When the link stops working: the tail lights were purchased from dotcomracing from ebay, part number: DC-LT-BW20408RCLED-APC
Last edited by aMsupp; 10-10-2012 at 07:42 AM.
10-10-2012, 07:39 AM
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No error codes on these tail lights.
They are not identical 2013 face lift lights, so the SAM doesn't need to be reprogrammed. They're just plug and play. However, they are about as identical as you can get without copyright infringement. They are BRIGHT and look fantastic.
They are not identical 2013 face lift lights, so the SAM doesn't need to be reprogrammed. They're just plug and play. However, they are about as identical as you can get without copyright infringement. They are BRIGHT and look fantastic.
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10-10-2012, 02:15 PM
#8
No error codes on these tail lights.
They are not identical 2013 face lift lights, so the SAM doesn't need to be reprogrammed. They're just plug and play. However, they are about as identical as you can get without copyright infringement. They are BRIGHT and look fantastic.
They are not identical 2013 face lift lights, so the SAM doesn't need to be reprogrammed. They're just plug and play. However, they are about as identical as you can get without copyright infringement. They are BRIGHT and look fantastic.
These replicas have a shorter signal/silver "bar" by two LED widths.
10-10-2012, 02:50 PM
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My main concerns were the smooth finish (no dips in the physical shell), darker red shell, two bright LED strips across the back and an updated look. It accomplished all of them, so I'm happy.
10-10-2012, 04:32 PM
#11
It doesn't really bug me at all, because they are miles above what was on there already. If I truly cared about having them be an exact match, I'd obviously opt for stock 2013s and reprogram the SAM at about $650. $230 is pretty good for getting something 95% identical.
My main concerns were the smooth finish (no dips in the physical shell), darker red shell, two bright LED strips across the back and an updated look. It accomplished all of them, so I'm happy.
My main concerns were the smooth finish (no dips in the physical shell), darker red shell, two bright LED strips across the back and an updated look. It accomplished all of them, so I'm happy.
10-10-2012, 08:11 PM
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I'm not seeing how OEM are "so much cleaner"....?? The brightness of your LED strips is only captured well if you have a good camera with a good lens. I have a good camera, not so great lens. Other than that, they are so similar it's almost not even noticeable - at least in my opinion.
No need to come in to a DIY and act "holier than thou". This thread is here to educate people how to swap tail lights, not for you to express your "OEM IS THE BEST EVER AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS SH*T" attitude.
No need to come in to a DIY and act "holier than thou". This thread is here to educate people how to swap tail lights, not for you to express your "OEM IS THE BEST EVER AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS SH*T" attitude.
Last edited by aMsupp; 10-10-2012 at 08:29 PM.
10-10-2012, 10:01 PM
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Op it looks FING SICK and yes for the price its great and no headaches on IF you can find someone to program your SAM.
caligreenzzz hates on mods that are not oem. ie the 10+ mirror mod which BTW is not wrong but you are just beating a dead damn horse man!
caligreenzzz hates on mods that are not oem. ie the 10+ mirror mod which BTW is not wrong but you are just beating a dead damn horse man!
10-10-2012, 10:07 PM
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I just don't see the reason to come into an educational thread and spout off like that. 
10-11-2012, 11:36 AM
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[QUOTE=aMsupp;5389269]I'm not seeing how OEM are "so much cleaner"....?? The brightness of your LED strips is only captured well if you have a good camera with a good lens. I have a good camera, not so great lens. Other than that, they are so similar it's almost not even noticeable - at least in my opinion.
No need to come in to a DIY and act "holier than thou". This thread is here to educate people how to swap tail lights, not for you to express your "OEM IS THE BEST EVER AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS SH*T" attitude.
try to get some pics side by side with the oem tails
No need to come in to a DIY and act "holier than thou". This thread is here to educate people how to swap tail lights, not for you to express your "OEM IS THE BEST EVER AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS SH*T" attitude.
try to get some pics side by side with the oem tails
10-11-2012, 11:36 AM
#21
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I'm not seeing how OEM are "so much cleaner"....?? The brightness of your LED strips is only captured well if you have a good camera with a good lens. I have a good camera, not so great lens. Other than that, they are so similar it's almost not even noticeable - at least in my opinion.
No need to come in to a DIY and act "holier than thou". This thread is here to educate people how to swap tail lights, not for you to express your "OEM IS THE BEST EVER AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS SH*T" attitude.
No need to come in to a DIY and act "holier than thou". This thread is here to educate people how to swap tail lights, not for you to express your "OEM IS THE BEST EVER AND EVERYTHING ELSE IS SH*T" attitude.
10-11-2012, 12:02 PM
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10-11-2012, 12:40 PM
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It's not "fake"... it's just different, but similar. I still don't see a huge difference. But more power to you if you want to go OEM. It's just an unnecessary cost for something so similar. I like your CV1s though.
