220 CDI

Well darn it! Swapped the turbo adjuster now and we keep getting a fault code now idicating that the rail pressure is incorrect.

Car runs good sometimes and then sometimes is very lame again.

Anyone who can help with this? Is there a sensor that should be replaced or do i have to replace the entire engine as they suggest at Mercedes (kidding).

Thanks,

Edward

Carsy

Edward,

Its time for Dr Star, me thinks

As said below in the attachment the CDI control unit should store the errors & point to the problem.

The questions I have are :-

Is the common rail pressure sensor faulty?

Is the high pressure fuel pump delivering the correct pressure & if not why?. Could be fault within HP pump or is there is a restriction in its supply ?.

Good luck & keep at it mate.!!

Big Daddy

Could be the firmware in the ETC. Perhaps the new one is not compatible with one or more of your sensors. I think you need to bite the bullet and get Mb to check

RLE

Sounds like normal fuel flow but choked for intake air at certain RPMs which points to the turbo.

Expensive?

Carsy

Any luck Edward,
JC

Glyn M Ruck

That turbo "adjuster" might need what Benz call "adaption" with Star.

Poor diesel performance is always lack of fuel or air if the engine is sound & the exhaust not restricted.

Big Daddy

Hi Edward
Sorted out the problem yet?

kampatel

Hi BD, no the EGR is different from the throttle body.

eBay item number:
111291878337 this is what the throttle body looks like for the cdi engine (lots on ebay)

found this site with diagrams for the w204 cdi detailing the throttle body (hope this link works) but still hard to find exact location
http://mb.ilcats.ru/part/vin//class/...imgno/1/clid/1

kampatel

http://mb.ilcats.ru/part/vin//class/...imgno/1/clid/1 no 60 intake throttle

cylaptor

I think you have a faulty fuel pressure regulator on common rail !

MrTash

Hi, I know this is a bit late but I had the same issues as you with my 2011 C220 CDI W204 and the problem was the turbo pressure transducer on the top of the engine at the front. The part number you would require is as follows A 009 153 31 28 these are very problematic and I think there is only one in the vacuum circuit but some diagrams show two of them one for the turbo actuators and one for the EGR. Anyone else who might be having this problem should try putting a bit of WD40 down the ports this will free it up and the car should return to normal operation hence proving this is the issue. However, I'd advise replacing it for the reasons already given above as they tend to stick after much use. The other item I'd suggest replacing also is the Vaccum filter part number A 000 078 09 56. I also had to replace the Vaccum converter valve as when I had my water pump replaced they had broken off one of the pipe connectors and tried to glue it back in place and I think this was the main reason for low Vaccum as it was leaking and after replacing that also I've had no further problems. Hope this information helps everyone out. Just to recap the issue is low power, to begin with, and then you feel the car kick in and the reason is the valve is sticking as well as low Vaccum pressure as already stated.

M901324

Hi all,

I have an issue on my MERCEDES-BENZ A-Class (W176) A 220 CDI. The change in gears was really lagging and the car appears to have a loss of power. The engine light came on and I've noticed the button for changing between sports/economy and manual no longer does anything. I took it to local garage and they identified 2 fault codes: boost pressure short circuit p023700 and communication with electronic selector level has a malfunction c29100. They advised taking it to transmission specialist to look at the gear selector side of things. The transmission specialist only identified P023700-Boost Pressure Sensor has a short circuit to
ground fault. This may be due to local garage clearing faults and this is the only one that came back when driving to transmission specialists. The transmission specialist are changing the transmission fluid and filters anyway as it has done 84000 and never had a change, so it was recommended anyway but they have told me to take back to local garage to look at engine performance side of things. Has anyone had an issue like this before as I'm at the point of just changing things to see if it works, which is not cheap! Any support would be appreciated.

Thanks,

MrTash

If it were me I'd get the car to an Independent Mercedes workshop and get them to check the car over as they will have all the right diagnostics (STAR) equipment to find what the true cause is and resolve the faults and what the solution is to do so. It Will cost you less in the long run if you end up having one thing done and not sorting it and then finding you are running back and forth to the garage trying to sort it out. From what you have said sounds like a component has failed and need replacing rather than just a transmission fluid and filters change and 84k is not a lot and how would the garage know it's never been done unless they have access to your service records with Mercedes? As far as I'm aware only Independents and Mercedes workshops have such access to this?.

M901324

Thanks MrTash, I know the transmission hasn't been replaced as I've had the car pretty much from new. The plan I had in mind was to collect car from transmission specialists (hopefully tomorrow), take it back to local garage and ask them to check the wiring and pipes leading to the boost pressure sensor (check the sensor if they can). As it looks online that a replacement boost pressure sensor is ~£40 I'm tempted to get the just to replace that and rule it out. After that if the problem still persists then your suggestion is a good one, as I'm concerned it may be an ECM issue which requires the correct diagnostic system. Does this seem like a logical next step?

I've spent ~£400-500 already on the multiple diagnostics and transmission fluid changes so the £40 for new sensor is not a concern if it might rule another thing out.

Thanks,

MrTash

Hi again, yes that sounds good my concern was you start changing stuff without finding the real problem and in turn, starts costing more money than it need be. But I wish you all the best and I'd be interested in what you find was the problem in the end. Like I say to be certain for sure of what has gone wrong it would be worth getting the car on the STAR Diagnostics for what it would cost and that would tell you the real issue and help you get it sorted for as low a price as you can as my concern is that you end up getting parts not needed. Anyway, that's just what I'd do if it were me you need to do whatever you feel is right for you. Good Luck with it anyway hope you get it sorted cheaply. Cars are such pain even more so when it's a Mercedes LOL.

dmbS116

Hello there.I have the same issue with my car E220 CDI. the code error is P00B092 boost pressure control B is malfunctioning. I changed the transducer ( change over valve) but the same issue. I bought the change over the valve with the original Mercedes and also with aftermarketPierburg
but in both of them, the error comes again. I don't know why. is needed to adapt or adjust the rod of the boost turbo charger.

I need help.
Best regard
Musa

MrTash

Regarding my original posts on this subject I also since have had this low Rev issue and this is due to the engine going into limp mode to protect the engine hence why you are getting only around 3000rpm with the pedal to the floor and the car having more or less no power at all. If you turn off the engine for about ten minutes restart you should then get 4000rpm plus showing it's reset and come out of limp mode at least that's what I was getting.
What I've now discovered is that this is not a wastegate or Turbo mechanical issue but an electrical one where in my case the plug that connects to the Boost Pressure Sensor part number A0071530028 was loose and not a good tight fit causing it to make and break the connection. So until I get a replacement plug I've pulled the two items together and used a wire tight to secure it as per my photos. I've also included the message I got on my OBD tester which after clearing has not returned and for the last four weeks so far everything has been fine and the car is running fine again. I think the problem came about due to vibration allowing a loss of electrical signal which in turn triggered the car to go into limp mode. So I suggest looking at this sensor to see if you have the same or if you have a faulty sensor because this will give the problems people have been getting so look at this and see if that solves your issues. One last point I'd make if you can't sort it go to an Independent Mercedes Mechanic who is using the STAR Diagnostics system as this is the only one that will tell you what your issue is for sure as it's Mercedes's own system to find such issues. If you use anything else you may well not find the fault and just end up running after your own tail all the time and getting nowhere with it. So I've provided a few photos.

Just an update since the original posting I made I've found by putting WD40 in both Turbo actuators I've found the problems have been resolved. I was also informed that the reason for going into limp mode was due to the back-pressure sensor and also the main issue is the throttle body actuator which is sticking as the Mechanic informed me that he had the same issues on a Woman's car of the same model in the past and changing the throttle body solved all these issues. I've since had him change this and along with what I've also done seems to have put things right the car is driving better now than it's ever been and for the past couple of weeks and going great. So something worth looking into with this issue I'd suggest. The only other thing I did change as I was advised to do also was the differential pressure sensor at the rear of the airbox that comes from the DPF may not have been an issue but all these things seem to have solved my problem. Anyway, just a few suggestions of things to look at don't cost a lot to sort either apart from the throttle body which you can only access from under the car and was the only part that did cost a fair bit but seems to have been the part causing all the issues anyway.





of what mine is so you know what you are looking for and also the rubber pipe with red strip comes from the turbo. Let me know if this sorts out your issues and if not I can help you check other items that might be an issue hope this information helps.