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MB must be making a killing off these failing parts! Seems to happen to many folks, including myself I'm getting code p0002 on ODBCII/ loss of power on hard acceleration, but goes back to normal after turn car off/on.
I wanted to know if you usually replace all three parts when customers report the problem?
I'm referring to the 2 parts in the fuel tank pump/pump assembly (204-470-02-94-MBZ/212-470-13-94-MBZ) AND the high pressure fuel pump behind the engine (271-070-37-01-80-MBZ)
Or if you just replace the high pressure fuel pump?
Trying not to buy parts I don't need.
Also, wondering if I can continue driving the car until I get the parts without worrying about the car not starting. Does anyone have any history with car NOT starting at all?
Thanks.
I've I've driven mine for 40,000 mi with the issue. Long time it runs perfect is when The engine is cold in the morning after that no firm acceleration without the issue.
Just did another one of these yesterday, 2013 SLK. .... Took me about 27 min from start to finish.
Thread resurrection, maybe, as I haven't read till the end yet.
2013 E350 here, have lost power occasionally maybe three four times in the past 6 months. Car has around 70,000 miles. Last time I had about an eighth of an tank but I'll keep my eye on it if it does it with more fuel.
Whereabouts are you (Major city)? I'm in the Toronto area and if it gets worse I need an independent or mechanic willing to do a side job.
Quick question. Why does the hp fuel pump have to be synchronized to a particular position to the engine? Are the pulses timed a specific way kind of like a distributor? So the pump has marks to align it before putting back on the engine also?
Thread resurrection, maybe, as I haven't read till the end yet.
2013 E350 here, have lost power occasionally maybe three four times in the past 6 months. Car has around 70,000 miles. Last time I had about an eighth of an tank but I'll keep my eye on it if it does it with more fuel.
Whereabouts are you (Major city)? I'm in the Toronto area and if it gets worse I need an independent or mechanic willing to do a side job.
Quick question. Why does the hp fuel pump have to be synchronized to a particular position to the engine? Are the pulses timed a specific way kind of like a distributor? So the pump has marks to align it before putting back on the engine also?
Doesn't apply to your V6, this is a 4 cyl issue. You may have a fuel pump failing but it's a different system on that engine. I'm in south FL, quite a distance from you.
It doesn't get timed, but it only stops at certain points, so you need the cam at a certain point to line it up, it has a cross shaped drive on the pump, so only every 90 degrees will work to mate up. It's not 'timed' to the engine, it's just that the pump will rest in certain angles due to internal design, so you set up the engine at the right point and it slips right in.
Doesn't apply to your V6, this is a 4 cyl issue. You may have a fuel pump failing but it's a different system on that engine. I'm in south FL, quite a distance from you.
It doesn't get timed, but it only stops at certain points, so you need the cam at a certain point to line it up, it has a cross shaped drive on the pump, so only every 90 degrees will work to mate up. It's not 'timed' to the engine, it's just that the pump will rest in certain angles due to internal design, so you set up the engine at the right point and it slips right in.
how do u replace the fuel pump and the lpfp on a 2014 c250 sedan and can any of yall send me a link to botch lpfp and fuel pump please id greately appreciate it guys
how do u replace the fuel pump and the lpfp on a 2014 c250 sedan and can any of yall send me a link to botch lpfp and fuel pump please id greately appreciate it guys
Assuming you are asking about both the high and low pressure pumps, the low pressure (in tank pump you just remove the rear seat cushion, there is a cover that unbolts over it, remove the lines and plugs and locking ring and it comes out. The high pressure pump on the back of the engine, I remove the oil filter and work through there, two bolts hold it to the engine and there is a small support bracket, one metal line and one rubber hose, the metal line just unscrews, the rubber line you gotta release the crimp-on clamp and replace with a new one, that's probably the toughest part with the limited space you have. But it's a fairly simple replacement.
Corrosion probably from plastic water pipe running along top of engine..
Originally Posted by Btrthanterrific
While I cannot determine the reason for the corrosion, I can assure you it has nothing to do with water. The engine cover and the way the ignition coils are mounted certainly surprised me that there would be corrosion on the third cylinder. I have never had the engine cleaned or pressure-washed. The spark plugs and coils had never been serviced either. The car has 88,000 miles. Many others have had the problem as well. The recommendation is to apply Dielectric grease to prevent further corrosion. But no one has designated a Cause for the corrosion especially with a single cylinder.
That's about where the joint is located on water pipe you can't buy from Mercedes. Amazon has tons of them available.........
I’ve been having this issue a lot recently with my c250 even after I took it into the dealer for the fuel pump warranty extension which the dealer said that it wasn’t causing the p0002 code so what else could be Causing it I’ve included some of the freeze frames from when it gets triggered
I’ve been having this issue a lot recently with my c250 even after I took it into the dealer for the fuel pump warranty extension which the dealer said that it wasn’t causing the p0002 code so what else could be Causing it I’ve included some of the freeze frames from when it gets triggered
so was this resolved? I experienced the exact issue while driving on the highway this weekend - will check the code tomorrow - which codes are necessary to get the dealership to replace the HPFP under the extended warranty?
I got similar issue, but its a diesel c220cdi, mainly throwing out following issue (with other 12 DTC)
but i can start motor without issues....
P0615 [0x0615]Starter motor relay - circuit malfunction
P0091 [0x0091] Fuel pressure regulator 1 - short to earth; Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low Voltage
Italian Joe, you seem to really know these cars. My girlfriend's 2014 C250 sport (102,000 miles) is throwing a P0002 code and the diagnostic tool said it's the high pressure fuel pump. Would you happen to know the part number and a ballpark about how much the price is for one of these? I'm on Oreilly and Autozone and they're showing like $1200 just for the part. Any help you can give is much appreciated!
Didn’t mention it, but there is a 10 year 110,000 miles extended warranty on the HPFP. If the car was put in service after June 2013, it may still be covered - call your local dealer and check.
I've driven my 2014 c250 for three years and 50,000 miles with the issue. It has not deteriorated any further, but the failure is minimized buy premium fuel, octane booster, and s mode when driving. The only codes I get are p0002 and p008a. Turning the car on and off resets the car from limp mode, and the check engine light usually goes off within a day. My gripe is that this appears to be a design flaw. If one of the components was failing surely it would get worse over time. Too many people have replaced components multiple times and still had the issue.
Hows that P008A code doing? Ever need a new fuel pump? I got one keeps coming and going. No loss in power or limp mode reset yet.
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