Has anyone tried these DRLs?
#26
Yea, that's also how I'm understanding it. Also the mounting tab in the back of the assembly being shaved off leads me to believe there's no bumper modification needed. However, I would like to have it on whenever the engine is on. So that means going the sidemarker or cig lighter route. I saw a wiring diagram made in paint on the other thread. lol it looked pretty simple. i guess.. lol
#27
Just get this harness and don't worry about tapping into the sidemarkers or cig lighter.
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
#28
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2010 C250 4Matic
Just get this harness and don't worry about tapping into the sidemarkers or cig lighter.
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
#29
Just get this harness and don't worry about tapping into the sidemarkers or cig lighter.
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
#30
Just get this harness and don't worry about tapping into the sidemarkers or cig lighter.
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
I've had it for over a year and no issues whatsoever.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00552...dsc_automotive
#31
Dolvio/Chuey/Katuga...
Going this route is basically connecting the new DRLs you're thinking about purchasing directly to the battery, thereby bypassing all stock systems and not interferring with anything. The little black box has the caps/diodes to control on/off depending on the key being turned on or not.
Being in Oregon, I have no need for the fog lights, so I left the stock connectors dangling. I put in H7 LEDs and used this harness to provide the DRL funtionality. By not hacking up the stock connectors, this mod is 100% reversible.
Because the stocks fogs are dangling, I get no bulb-out msgs. Actually, I may have gotten it once, but none after that.
Layout is: one pair of postive/negative on the battery side of the black box, then two pairs of wires for each of the fogs. Passenger side pair is shorter, naturally, and the driver's side pair is plenty long to reach. After I buttoned everything up and put the wires inside black split-loom tubing, it all looks completely stock.
Going this route is basically connecting the new DRLs you're thinking about purchasing directly to the battery, thereby bypassing all stock systems and not interferring with anything. The little black box has the caps/diodes to control on/off depending on the key being turned on or not.
Being in Oregon, I have no need for the fog lights, so I left the stock connectors dangling. I put in H7 LEDs and used this harness to provide the DRL funtionality. By not hacking up the stock connectors, this mod is 100% reversible.
Because the stocks fogs are dangling, I get no bulb-out msgs. Actually, I may have gotten it once, but none after that.
Layout is: one pair of postive/negative on the battery side of the black box, then two pairs of wires for each of the fogs. Passenger side pair is shorter, naturally, and the driver's side pair is plenty long to reach. After I buttoned everything up and put the wires inside black split-loom tubing, it all looks completely stock.
#32
Thanks. I know exactly how your DRL Controller works. It has nothing to do with the car electrical wiring because switching is controlled by input voltage. Thus when the engine runs, the battery get charge up to 13.5V minimal. And the cutoff threshold should be down below 13V when engine is off.
Having said that, what if your battery died and you charge it at home using one of those Rapid Batt Charger or similar. I am guessing DRL will turn on the whole time batt is on charge, right? Please correct me if I misinterpret the theory.
Btw, that is a smart way of eliminating the bulb error code.
Having said that, what if your battery died and you charge it at home using one of those Rapid Batt Charger or similar. I am guessing DRL will turn on the whole time batt is on charge, right? Please correct me if I misinterpret the theory.
Btw, that is a smart way of eliminating the bulb error code.
Last edited by katuga; 09-08-2013 at 12:05 AM.
#34
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2010 C250 4Matic
Dolvio/Chuey/Katuga...
Going this route is basically connecting the new DRLs you're thinking about purchasing directly to the battery, thereby bypassing all stock systems and not interferring with anything. The little black box has the caps/diodes to control on/off depending on the key being turned on or not.
Being in Oregon, I have no need for the fog lights, so I left the stock connectors dangling. I put in H7 LEDs and used this harness to provide the DRL funtionality. By not hacking up the stock connectors, this mod is 100% reversible.
Because the stocks fogs are dangling, I get no bulb-out msgs. Actually, I may have gotten it once, but none after that.
Layout is: one pair of postive/negative on the battery side of the black box, then two pairs of wires for each of the fogs. Passenger side pair is shorter, naturally, and the driver's side pair is plenty long to reach. After I buttoned everything up and put the wires inside black split-loom tubing, it all looks completely stock.
Going this route is basically connecting the new DRLs you're thinking about purchasing directly to the battery, thereby bypassing all stock systems and not interferring with anything. The little black box has the caps/diodes to control on/off depending on the key being turned on or not.
Being in Oregon, I have no need for the fog lights, so I left the stock connectors dangling. I put in H7 LEDs and used this harness to provide the DRL funtionality. By not hacking up the stock connectors, this mod is 100% reversible.
Because the stocks fogs are dangling, I get no bulb-out msgs. Actually, I may have gotten it once, but none after that.
Layout is: one pair of postive/negative on the battery side of the black box, then two pairs of wires for each of the fogs. Passenger side pair is shorter, naturally, and the driver's side pair is plenty long to reach. After I buttoned everything up and put the wires inside black split-loom tubing, it all looks completely stock.
Cheers,
Adam
#35
I would imagine the under carriage would glow when the stock fog is switch on Unless he concealed the bulbs really good.
Last edited by katuga; 09-08-2013 at 12:36 AM.
#36
As Katuga said, I did not do the conversion to the new-style LED bar. I only replaced the stock H7 halogen foglight bulbs with LED units and directly connected them via the harness.
However, I didn't leave the stock halogen bulbs in tact, Katuga. Having a glow coming from the bumper would look kinda weird. Only the stock foglight CONNECTORS are dangling, i.e. there is nothing connected to them. The H7 LED bulbs plug into the foglight carrier as normal and I plugged the harness wires into the back via female spades.
Bottom line, I just wanted DRL functionality for the foglights. Instead of using H7 LEDs I could've just used Sylvania Silverstars or Philips Diamond Vision Plus. I chose the specific LED bulbs because of the layout of each individual diode. Knowing that these bulbs are not meant to provide enough light to illuminate the road, they look very good as DRLs. The pic doesn't do them justice because the camera cannot pickup/discern each LED. In person, the "tower" of LEDs along w/ the star pattern on the end is very distinct.
Back to your guys' topic at hand. If you're going to do the full LED bar conversion, use this harness. Done.
To answer your question about a dead battery, Katuga, if you need to rapid-charge, etc., just disconnect the two harness wires from the terminals before charging. Why risk blowing out your DRLs? Done.
However, I didn't leave the stock halogen bulbs in tact, Katuga. Having a glow coming from the bumper would look kinda weird. Only the stock foglight CONNECTORS are dangling, i.e. there is nothing connected to them. The H7 LED bulbs plug into the foglight carrier as normal and I plugged the harness wires into the back via female spades.
Bottom line, I just wanted DRL functionality for the foglights. Instead of using H7 LEDs I could've just used Sylvania Silverstars or Philips Diamond Vision Plus. I chose the specific LED bulbs because of the layout of each individual diode. Knowing that these bulbs are not meant to provide enough light to illuminate the road, they look very good as DRLs. The pic doesn't do them justice because the camera cannot pickup/discern each LED. In person, the "tower" of LEDs along w/ the star pattern on the end is very distinct.
Back to your guys' topic at hand. If you're going to do the full LED bar conversion, use this harness. Done.
To answer your question about a dead battery, Katuga, if you need to rapid-charge, etc., just disconnect the two harness wires from the terminals before charging. Why risk blowing out your DRLs? Done.
Last edited by Doanster; 09-08-2013 at 12:57 AM.
#37
hmmmm...and NO error code? Are you suggesting newer W204 models will not throw an error either? Just curious!
Absolutely! Just expect DRL to illuminate when batt is on charge.
Absolutely! Just expect DRL to illuminate when batt is on charge.
#38
I cannot speak/vouch for any other model year, but I do believe the msgs are based on the load presented when a bulb is connected, but burned out vs leaving the circuit open by not having a bulb connected at all.
Easy test for you... completely disconnect one of the tail lamp connectors and see if the car throws msgs for rear parking, brake, and signal lamps being out. That's basically what I did with the foglights.
#39
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2010 C250 4Matic
Okay, I have a better understanding of this black box now. So this is going to have to work in conjunction with the resistor boxes and wiring that come with the LED's. Couple Questions:
1) So it does work off the battery voltage. When car on lights on, when car off, lights off?
2)Is there a better place to wire this other than the battery?
3) how are there not "bulb out" error codes from leaving Fog Light bulbs out..?
1) So it does work off the battery voltage. When car on lights on, when car off, lights off?
2)Is there a better place to wire this other than the battery?
3) how are there not "bulb out" error codes from leaving Fog Light bulbs out..?
#40
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2010 C250 4Matic
For my '09, I've only gotten an error msg one time, that's it.
I cannot speak/vouch for any other model year, but I do believe the msgs are based on the load presented when a bulb is connected, but burned out vs leaving the circuit open by not having a bulb connected at all.
Easy test for you... completely disconnect one of the tail lamp connectors and see if the car throws msgs for rear parking, brake, and signal lamps being out. That's basically what I did with the foglights.
I cannot speak/vouch for any other model year, but I do believe the msgs are based on the load presented when a bulb is connected, but burned out vs leaving the circuit open by not having a bulb connected at all.
Easy test for you... completely disconnect one of the tail lamp connectors and see if the car throws msgs for rear parking, brake, and signal lamps being out. That's basically what I did with the foglights.
Adam
#41
For my '09, I've only gotten an error msg one time, that's it.
I cannot speak/vouch for any other model year, but I do believe the msgs are based on the load presented when a bulb is connected, but burned out vs leaving the circuit open by not having a bulb connected at all.
I cannot speak/vouch for any other model year, but I do believe the msgs are based on the load presented when a bulb is connected, but burned out vs leaving the circuit open by not having a bulb connected at all.
#42
Okay, I have a better understanding of this black box now. So this is going to have to work in conjunction with the resistor boxes and wiring that come with the LED's. Couple Questions:
1) So it does work off the battery voltage. When car on lights on, when car off, lights off?
1) So it does work off the battery voltage. When car on lights on, when car off, lights off?
Recommended, unless you're willing to run wire. Either way, you must install fuse for safety reason. I bet you've seen cars went up in smoke.
Ditto.
Last edited by katuga; 09-08-2013 at 01:45 AM.
#43
hmm.. this thread is making me a bit more confident that this mod could work.. So if I'm understaind this correctly, we are to use the relay switch to gain full DRL functionality and the capacitors to eliminate the flickering issue?
#44
You guys are making this more difficult than it needs to be, IMO.
Worry first about the actual LED bar conversion, then decide whether you want to manually wire/tap into the sidemarkers/cig lighter. If you don't want to go that route, drop the $30 and get this harness, if for nothing more than just an experiment. Going straight to the battery is the safest as you're not tapping into anything and it provides 100% reversibility. This is akin to wiring up an amp for a sub. You should go directly to the battery vs trying to tap into the +12V in the trunk...
#45
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2010 C250 4Matic
Actually this now has me thinking you would not need resistors that come with the LED's... Those would be used if they were wired into the cars electrical system. What we are discussing above is adding an external light source off the battery itself... hmm...
#46
Sheesh, don't think I've ever posted this much in one day. Hopefully we're done...
#47
I doubt if the LED Bar will flicker with the Controller since the connections has nothing to do with the car internal wiring system. LED's normally flickers during system ECU bulb check but at fast rate and unnoticeable. Worse case scenario, install the caps.
Like wise, you don't need to install the Load Resistor supplied with the LED Bar. Doing so will put more load into the DRL Controller resulting in premature failure. Dunno know what's the box max load limit.
Hope this helps
Like wise, you don't need to install the Load Resistor supplied with the LED Bar. Doing so will put more load into the DRL Controller resulting in premature failure. Dunno know what's the box max load limit.
Hope this helps
#48
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2010 C250 4Matic
Thinking more about this, there is no way error codes will not be thrown. My car flips on the Fog lights when I hit the unlock button from the remote. It will detect no bulb and throw a code upon start up. I will maybe try and unplug my fog connector tomorrow and try a few things.
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2010 Mercedes-Benz C300 Sport
These guys seem to have the full set of instructions for hooking these up to the battery on their auction:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-daytime-...-/321145861880
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-daytime-...-/321145861880
#50