Has anyone tried these DRLs?
09-20-2013, 08:08 AM
#76
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C300
Then why are you making it more complicated? Buy the $30 relay/harness I linked, then hook it up directly to the battery as Katuga showed you above.
When you turn the key, the DRLs turn on. Take the key out, a few secs later, they turn off.
If you never try to activate the fogs by pulling the headlight switch outward, then you'll never get any error messages.
When you turn the key, the DRLs turn on. Take the key out, a few secs later, they turn off.
If you never try to activate the fogs by pulling the headlight switch outward, then you'll never get any error messages.
09-20-2013, 11:30 AM
#78
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'11 C350 '13 F150 lariat
for you guys looking for 30a power for these just use the 30 amp fuse in ur front fuse box that is for the sindshield wiper circuit. thats how I install these in w204s and its only powered when key is in first turn position, so its lights on w key and lights off w key. If you want any other mode of operation use a relay circuit, I have posts on here detailing the setup. A relay is just a "switch" to power an accessory w whatever size amperage u want but using a very low amp circuit to trigger it, so u can jump the "trigger" wire off ANYTHING in the car that has 12v and power it without needing power from that circuit.
somebody early on in this thread said run a power wire from the cigarette lighter, dont do that, no need at all. U could just as easy go from the batter or jumpstart post and throw a fuse on it, way easier. Anybody doing this install can make the install look factory. I have a 2011 and rewired them for full brightness and to flash w unlock, I have a dual relay w isolation, u would never know looking under the hood tho
somebody early on in this thread said run a power wire from the cigarette lighter, dont do that, no need at all. U could just as easy go from the batter or jumpstart post and throw a fuse on it, way easier. Anybody doing this install can make the install look factory. I have a 2011 and rewired them for full brightness and to flash w unlock, I have a dual relay w isolation, u would never know looking under the hood tho
09-20-2013, 12:13 PM
#79
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2013 W204
for you guys looking for 30a power for these just use the 30 amp fuse in ur front fuse box that is for the sindshield wiper circuit. thats how I install these in w204s and its only powered when key is in first turn position, so its lights on w key and lights off w key.
Modders, get ready with your homework...read here!https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ing-issue.html
09-20-2013, 01:34 PM
#80
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w211, s204
Thanks for sharing but I'm 
. The idea is to make the LED bar lit when the engine started and LED off when engine is off. Based on the Schematic, why would I need the Startup Module and DC/DC Converter to accomplish just that? Don't you think tapping the LED bar Vcc directly to the relay isn't enough?
. The idea is to make the LED bar lit when the engine started and LED off when engine is off. Based on the Schematic, why would I need the Startup Module and DC/DC Converter to accomplish just that? Don't you think tapping the LED bar Vcc directly to the relay isn't enough?
IF the module had working OK in the first place, then you do not need this DC/DC Converter and relay. Relay is needed to switch off dc/dc converter and I didn't want to add any additional load to CDI Module (I took ignition signal from CDI module). Startup module is still needed because I want LEDs to dim (like OEM) when parking lights/xenons go on. When I connected LEDs directly to +15, they were VERY VERY dim, I measured the voltage between startup module and led bar, it was 14,9V. So this startup module is also somekind of dc/dc converter, but has poorly designed voltage detection circuit. Maybe in winter when I have more time I replace this startup module with couple of regular diodes. Diodes have 0.5-0.7 voltage drop and I thik this would be perfect for dim function. 
09-20-2013, 02:14 PM
#81
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2010 C250 4Matic
for you guys looking for 30a power for these just use the 30 amp fuse in ur front fuse box that is for the sindshield wiper circuit. thats how I install these in w204s and its only powered when key is in first turn position, so its lights on w key and lights off w key. If you want any other mode of operation use a relay circuit, I have posts on here detailing the setup. A relay is just a "switch" to power an accessory w whatever size amperage u want but using a very low amp circuit to trigger it, so u can jump the "trigger" wire off ANYTHING in the car that has 12v and power it without needing power from that circuit.
somebody early on in this thread said run a power wire from the cigarette lighter, dont do that, no need at all. U could just as easy go from the batter or jumpstart post and throw a fuse on it, way easier. Anybody doing this install can make the install look factory. I have a 2011 and rewired them for full brightness and to flash w unlock, I have a dual relay w isolation, u would never know looking under the hood tho
somebody early on in this thread said run a power wire from the cigarette lighter, dont do that, no need at all. U could just as easy go from the batter or jumpstart post and throw a fuse on it, way easier. Anybody doing this install can make the install look factory. I have a 2011 and rewired them for full brightness and to flash w unlock, I have a dual relay w isolation, u would never know looking under the hood tho
I have read a lot of your posts primarily in the other LED thread and you seem to really know what you are doing. People all have different experience levels and mine would next to new with respect to electrical wiring. I am wanting to do this aftermarket LED upgrade. I like the idea of plugging right into the FOG's and having the car reprogrammed to run the FOG's as DRL's. I think this would be the absolute cleanest install and would also keep my Low Beams off during the daytime. (Canada always on/stupid). I have posted this question on the forum with no response yet.
I discussed wiring the LED's with a local shop and they recommended using a relay harness and wiring straight to the battery. This idea sounds the simplest. In this case, how can you have the LED's dim at night? Maybe it's best to keep them at full brightness at night too.
In your opinion, what is the absolute best way to wire these in to work as factory as possible?
Cheers,
Adam
09-20-2013, 10:25 PM
#82
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C300 Sport 6MT
The posts from jimmythegreek regarding relays are basically the same as this harness. He built them up from scratch and added more functionality, but it's the same concept.
As for the duration of them staying on, I do believe it's the same as the eyelids, but I can't confirm right now as the car is at the dealer w/ the dreaded steering lock malfunction.
09-20-2013, 10:51 PM
#83
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Hey, no worries here. Just re-iterating how simple/straight-fwd this could be vs the discussions about converters, tapping the cigarette lighter, etc.
The posts from jimmythegreek regarding relays are basically the same as this harness. He built them up from scratch and added more functionality, but it's the same concept.
As for the duration of them staying on, I do believe it's the same as the eyelids, but I can't confirm right now as the car is at the dealer w/ the dreaded steering lock malfunction.
The posts from jimmythegreek regarding relays are basically the same as this harness. He built them up from scratch and added more functionality, but it's the same concept.
As for the duration of them staying on, I do believe it's the same as the eyelids, but I can't confirm right now as the car is at the dealer w/ the dreaded steering lock malfunction.
Only 1 bulb lights up wtf.
09-24-2013, 06:08 PM
#84
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'11 C350 '13 F150 lariat
Hey there,
I have read a lot of your posts primarily in the other LED thread and you seem to really know what you are doing. People all have different experience levels and mine would next to new with respect to electrical wiring. I am wanting to do this aftermarket LED upgrade. I like the idea of plugging right into the FOG's and having the car reprogrammed to run the FOG's as DRL's. I think this would be the absolute cleanest install and would also keep my Low Beams off during the daytime. (Canada always on/stupid). I have posted this question on the forum with no response yet.
I discussed wiring the LED's with a local shop and they recommended using a relay harness and wiring straight to the battery. This idea sounds the simplest. In this case, how can you have the LED's dim at night? Maybe it's best to keep them at full brightness at night too.
In your opinion, what is the absolute best way to wire these in to work as factory as possible?
Cheers,
Adam
I have read a lot of your posts primarily in the other LED thread and you seem to really know what you are doing. People all have different experience levels and mine would next to new with respect to electrical wiring. I am wanting to do this aftermarket LED upgrade. I like the idea of plugging right into the FOG's and having the car reprogrammed to run the FOG's as DRL's. I think this would be the absolute cleanest install and would also keep my Low Beams off during the daytime. (Canada always on/stupid). I have posted this question on the forum with no response yet.
I discussed wiring the LED's with a local shop and they recommended using a relay harness and wiring straight to the battery. This idea sounds the simplest. In this case, how can you have the LED's dim at night? Maybe it's best to keep them at full brightness at night too.
In your opinion, what is the absolute best way to wire these in to work as factory as possible?
Cheers,
Adam
09-24-2013, 07:17 PM
#85
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2010 C250 4Matic
Anytime u tap a factory light source u will get errors UNLESS u properly measure the voltage/amperage and use resistors to make it the same, that is a PIA IMO. Its very hard to reprogram these cars, the dealer WILL NOT do it unless ur related to the service manager or u find a developer who has STAR and can access ur car, so thats a long shot. U will never have an error with your fogs by unhooking them and zip tieing the harness behind the bumper unless u pull ur headlight switch out trying to turn them on. So......keeping it simple u just disconnect the fogs, grind out the bezel to install the OEM LED assembly and wire it w a relay using the 30amp windshield fuse as teh trigger wire and the battery as your power source, fused of course. Thats how I do them and thats what I recommend. If you REALLY want them to dim (which I think looks poor, they glow nice at night and Ive been running them almost 2 yrs this way no problems w other drivers+police) there are aftermarket LED controllers than will drop the voltage down using a switch or another "trigger" wire with voltage, this you would jump to a + power source like ur headlight or markers or whatever u want to switch on to dim the LEDs. I think the stock LEDs dim too much for my taste, I would like to see in between dim and full brightness like 3/4 power but its never gonna happen
Thank you,
A.
10-10-2013, 10:27 PM
#86
MBWorld Fanatic!
My OEM DRL LED are up for sale now for more details please click here.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-sale-oem.html
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