Oh Lord Want You Fix My Mercedes Benz!




Remove the air box, reach behind the block on the drivers side (in usa) and unplug the connector. Use remove the "inverted torx" screw and pull out crank sensor.
Removing the MAF helps some and I will say, its more difficult if there is a vacuum pump on the rear of the engine.
Last edited by xjmoe83; Apr 21, 2015 at 12:51 PM.
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The irony haha.
Thread derail, xjmoe83, you mind pointing me in the direction of the fuse for the wiper washer sprayer? As a former Volvo master tech something about taking a car in for a warranty inop complaint seems asinine without first checking the basics. It's a 2014. Dug through the manual and although they list fuse box locations, no fuse map, really?!
This is my 1st Mercedes. Everything that I know about them I have learned since I purchased the car a few weeks ago. I have read some bad reviews about the C300 on this forum. I am wandering if these cars have a history of bad ECU modules? I am also suspicious of all of the heat shielding in the engine compartment. With the splash panels underneath the engine and the heat shielding in the engine compartment against the firewall and along the wheel wells, it seems to me that there may not be enough ventilation and the sensors-O2, and crank sensors, may be enduring significant temperature changes and extremes, resulting in premature failure. I'm not sure what to think except that Mercedes may be the world's most overrated vehicle.
By the way XJmoe83, previously you had mentioned something about reinitializing the crank after replacing the sensor but you did not elaborate. I did try a method that I read about where you slowly increase revs over a couple minute period. This seemed to clear the CEL and extinguish the crank sensor code. But I still have a rough idle and 0V up-stream O2. Would you mind elaborating on the crank re-initialization thing?




