Cylinder Bank 1 and Bank 2 TOO RICH?
My car is a 2009 C350
I have the check engine light on for a while now.
Have had it reset many times but it still comes back.
The car still seems to run normal, engine temp I think is still almost the same as before. I had my MAF Sensor cleaned using "CRC MAF Sensor Cleaner" few months back, past mechanic "said" he is sure that he installed the MAF sensor back into the car properly.
The computer diagnosis says that:
0746 The Mixture (Cylinder Bank 1) is TOO RICH current and stored.
0750 The Mixture (Cylinder Bank 2) is TOO RICH current and stored.
What does this exactly mean???
Symptoms:
a. Check engine light is on.
b. A "humming/whooshing" sound can be heard INSIDE the car (particularly the front left side) its loud but not very loud. This happens when I'm slowly accelerating from 0-25mph, the sound is also there while I'm "COASTING" (foot off the accelerator) at those speeds. If the car is on PARK, and I press the accelerator, the sound can also be heard, but its not as loud as when the car is moving.
I went to 2 shops:
1. The first repair shop I went to, they said that they are positive my catalytic converters have problems and needs to be changed. (This is a very very expensive repair, and parts are not available yet), they said that the broken ceramics inside the catalytic converters are making the humming/whooshing sound and also causing the check engine light at the same time.
2. Yesterday, I went to the second repair shop for a second opinion, they said that the "Humming/whooshing sound" and the "Check Engine Light" is not related.
This means that I have 2 different problems with my car! They asked me to leave the car next week so that they can check for "air leaks or bearing problems" and also check the "catalytic converters"The shops already charges money just by finding what the problem is. This means that they can check all they want with the car, even on "unrelated parts" and charge everything to me. Hopefully they'd be honest.
On the other hand, if the catalytic converters are really the problem, then they are also freaking expensive to replace for an old car.(is it possible to just totally remove the cats and bypass the check engine light by doing an ecu reflash? cause someone told me this might be possible.)
and lastly, I definitely don't wanna waste my money by changing a wrong part that is not actually causing the check engine light and the humming sound problem.
So what does "The mixture (Cylinder Bank 1 and Cylinder Bank 2) is TOO RICH" exactly pertain to? Pls. help.

Has anyone encountered this problem?
Thanks.
if cats were bad down stream oxygen sensors is suppose to set off a check engine light with a non efficient cat operation.
read below how to test for exhaust pressure
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...aust-upgrades/
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w204/634654-c350-error-0746-0750-a.html
Any idea?
Last edited by pttk; Aug 15, 2016 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Link
if cats were bad down stream oxygen sensors is suppose to set off a check engine light with a non efficient cat operation.
read below how to test for exhaust pressure
http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/...aust-upgrades/
^This.
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I would have your mechanic remove the intake manifold to check if the intake runners are damaged. One of the intake manifold runners came apart once removing the intake manifold throwing a red flag. I decided to bite the bullet and open the intake manifold, which if opened cannot be resealed, to see if there was more damage. Once it was open we found that one of the plastic intake flaps were broken. Replaced the complete intake manifold with vacuum hoses because they were off. No check engine and the responsiveness improved significantly. Would still recommend checking the Air Mass Meter, Air Filter, and vacuum hoses before going this route, but if all of this was done or checked the intake manifold is most likely your issue.
Put a video of the intake manifold flap that broke inside the manifold. It should be secured with the rest of the intake manifold flaps and should be only be allowed to move once the intake runner actuates. It would be difficult to tell if you put a camera inside. So, if you're a shop looking at this I would recommend letting the customer know that you want to open the intake manifold to confirm if it's damaged internally because as I said above the is no going back once opened and the part itself is around $800.
Also, replaced all the fuel injectors at the same time because they are relatively cheap and they have to come off the remove intake manifold. Vehicle had over 170,000 miles and is running like a champ again.
Note for mechanics if this is the issue you will have to tap the new intake manifold to reinstall throttle body due to new intake manifold not coming with it unfortunately. Obviously a bit more of a process so tell your parts guy not to be cheap and get you new aluminum bolts once the intake manifold is tapped to install the throttle body.
Best,
Uli
Last edited by ulipacmotor; Mar 2, 2023 at 07:00 PM.






