Adi-Benz

Hey guys,

Just a few questions on hid retrofit

1) I think I have to drill the caps. Do SLIM style HID kits prevent the need for drilling? What is the benefit?

2) Do HID retrofits require an error cancellor/separate attachment? Not just for a particular brand, in GENERAL for w204.

I see some brands w/ reviews do not look like they need a cancellor. So does it depend on brand then?

Any tips or tricks for installing them? Drilling holes, mounting, etc?
Thanks

AZN Optics

You're going to still need a canbus kit (what you're referring to as cancellers) regardless. And you'll need to drill holes to feed wires. Slim ballast isn't going to make a difference. People shouldn't stuff their ballast in headlight housing as ballast relies on engine airflow to cool.

VeronSvn

I had same dilema as you.
I ended up buying new headlights (Depo) with projector. But Depo projector sux (despite putting "slim" xenon kit).

So I took apart the headlight and installed bi-led i-lens projector and it's super.

Adi-Benz

Thanks Mike. Does this mean some have integrated canbus? I see on some of these kits the reviews (with other C300's) say that they worked error/blinking free. Btw you still have your C300?

I have prefacelift which have halogen projectors. Swapping out projectors is a bit too much work than I'm looking to do. HIDs should be enough for me as it should be an improvement anyways.

AZN Optics

So it just depends on design. Some kits have the canbus canceller embedded within the ballast and some have it external. The better design is external because the canbus canceller is basically packed with giant resistors and should be the highest heat generating component. By separating it from the ballast, you should enhance the life of the ballast. However, for ease of install, some people are less intimidated by having one less component piece they have to deal with. It's also a cost savings for the manufacturer by integrating the canceller into the ballast as they don't have build out the extra housing component and wiring for the kit.

Adi-Benz

Sounds good.

I'm thinking ballpark 6k, but I do like a hint of blue so I'm curious, will 8000k be brighter than halogen still? I would assume 6k would be the sweet spot with best brightness though (non yellow)

AZN Optics

5500k (pure white) has slightly higher lumen compared to 6500k (white with a slight bluish hue).

Adi-Benz

Thanks! Any difference/preference between the AC and DC for our models?

Edit: Seems like AC is more reliable so AC it is

C300CA

There is a feed-through for the stock Halogen bulb. Can we use that to avoid drilling hole on cap? I'd imagine it's a very difficult access without taking the entire light assembly out.