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You're going to still need a canbus kit (what you're referring to as cancellers) regardless. And you'll need to drill holes to feed wires. Slim ballast isn't going to make a difference. People shouldn't stuff their ballast in headlight housing as ballast relies on engine airflow to cool.
You're going to still need a canbus kit (what you're referring to as cancellers) regardless. And you'll need to drill holes to feed wires. Slim ballast isn't going to make a difference. People shouldn't stuff their ballast in headlight housing as ballast relies on engine airflow to cool.
Thanks Mike. Does this mean some have integrated canbus? I see on some of these kits the reviews (with other C300's) say that they worked error/blinking free. Btw you still have your C300?
Originally Posted by VeronSvn
I had same dilema as you.
I ended up buying new headlights (Depo) with projector. But Depo projector sux (despite putting "slim" xenon kit).
So I took apart the headlight and installed bi-led i-lens projector and it's super.
I have prefacelift which have halogen projectors. Swapping out projectors is a bit too much work than I'm looking to do. HIDs should be enough for me as it should be an improvement anyways.
Thanks Mike. Does this mean some have integrated canbus? I see on some of these kits the reviews (with other C300's) say that they worked error/blinking free. Btw you still have your C300?
So it just depends on design. Some kits have the canbus canceller embedded within the ballast and some have it external. The better design is external because the canbus canceller is basically packed with giant resistors and should be the highest heat generating component. By separating it from the ballast, you should enhance the life of the ballast. However, for ease of install, some people are less intimidated by having one less component piece they have to deal with. It's also a cost savings for the manufacturer by integrating the canceller into the ballast as they don't have build out the extra housing component and wiring for the kit.
I'm thinking ballpark 6k, but I do like a hint of blue so I'm curious, will 8000k be brighter than halogen still? I would assume 6k would be the sweet spot with best brightness though (non yellow)
There is a feed-through for the stock Halogen bulb. Can we use that to avoid drilling hole on cap? I'd imagine it's a very difficult access without taking the entire light assembly out.
I had same dilema as you.
I ended up buying new headlights (Depo) with projector. But Depo projector sux (despite putting "slim" xenon kit).
So I took apart the headlight and installed bi-led i-lens projector and it's super.
I'm thinking about doing the same for my headlights since the projector is trash.
I know it's been many years, but do you remember if you had to modify a lot to change the projector?
I just replaced my drivers side aftermarket hid ballast due to it failing. I have the Innovited can-bus 35w kit, installed Jan 2021 and they worked perfectly until the end of Nov this year. Coincidently my yearly car inspection sticker expires this month. I ordered a replacement set to instal;l and was waiting to get them to go get my car inspected. But after wiggling the wires the light started working fine again,. I stopped in to get my car inspected, the guy drove it in and i saw the headlights light fine for the testing, drove it out with a new sticker. I get in the car and start it to drive away and the bulb out message popped up. I got lucky. Went right home and replaced the ballast, now its working fine so far.
I just found it funny how right as my sticker is due something seems to always pop up.
For bulbs I have Morimoto XB H7-B 4500k. The Innovited ballast has everything wired together. Very simple to install. Nothing gets hot, just warm.
I'm thinking about doing the same for my headlights since the projector is trash.
I know it's been many years, but do you remember if you had to modify a lot to change the projector?
all I had to drill the mounting holes in existing socket. Because led projector was a lot shorter, I had to mount it on "front" part of mount. Everything else was untouched.
I was looking around and came across Morimoto bulbs at Lightwerkz for $25. With the savings code it came to $32 with shipping. I think my current ones I paid $50 + shipping. I figure why not have a spare set. They are the same ones I have currently installed, the H7B-4500k.
