Gentle Warning - Service your 722.9 Transmission every 39K miles 60K Km's
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Gentle Warning - Service your 722.9 Transmission every 39K miles 60K Km's
Guys and gals. This is not intended to cause alarm but to respectfully suggest that you service your 722.9 transmission every 39K miles or 60K Km's as in ROW. We are seeing an increased number of TC et al failures as mileage increases & feel it prudent to inform you while we try to fully understand the failure mode. We should also state that forums such as these concentrate problems as many only post when they have a problem.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...need-help.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...need-help.html
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From: Florida, USA
2012 e350, a BMW, an Audi, a Camaro
Thanks for the advice Glyn. What is the OEM fluid manufacturer and spec? What is a comparable aftermarket? Is there a drain for the torque converter as well and must this also be done. Thanks again.
cheers! Mike
cheers! Mike
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2008 W204
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Thanks LSA!
Go here to my W209 version for a little added info to John's great thread.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
Go here to my W209 version for a little added info to John's great thread.
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
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From: Montreal, Canada
2011 E550 Coupe
Just had both my B and C transmission serviced at below 60,000km. What are your thoughts on brake fluid flush, I haven't done that and at this point don't really believe in it. Is it a must?
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Brake fluid should be flushed every 2 to 3 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic i.e. it absorbs water. Aside from brake fluid boiling at the wheel if water content gets too high & resulting in brake failure, the cost of a new ABS block these days if it gets contaminated & damaged by corrosion by-products is also high & remember the ABS pump semi circulates the fluid.
Flush your brake fluid. It's a very minor job for the potential savings & safety issues.
Flush your brake fluid. It's a very minor job for the potential savings & safety issues.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 15, 2012 at 08:58 AM.
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From: Florida, USA
2012 e350, a BMW, an Audi, a Camaro
Thank you for the links. Much appreciated. It appears all of them on the list are not fully synthetic lubricants including the one that touts itself as factory fill. Has anyone found a higher quality fully synthetic fluid that is within the same specs as those on the list?
Thanks
cheers! Mike
Thanks
cheers! Mike
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
These are the latest & only approved fluids. Presume you are only talking ATFs & not brake fluid? There is only one approved additive system & these are the ONLY fluids that should be used.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Here:
Ryder fleet products have by far the best deal on this product by Shell at under US$ 6 per quart. Most dealers are charging over $20/quart. The Shell product is fully approved. Many use Fuchs Titan 4134 as well.
See description. It is Shell product in a Shell container - Pennzoil is owned by Shell. Many have confirmed correct product in Shell packaging on receipt.
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do
Ryder fleet products have by far the best deal on this product by Shell at under US$ 6 per quart. Most dealers are charging over $20/quart. The Shell product is fully approved. Many use Fuchs Titan 4134 as well.
See description. It is Shell product in a Shell container - Pennzoil is owned by Shell. Many have confirmed correct product in Shell packaging on receipt.
http://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/ry...oductDetail.do
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From: Florida, USA
2012 e350, a BMW, an Audi, a Camaro
I can definitely appreciate those on the approved list but i'm also wondering about more longer term than satisfying warranty requirements. If we in the US had taken MB word for it we'd be thinking this non synthetic fluid is a "lifetime" fill. So knowing MB (or anyone) is not always perfect with their recommendations, i'm wondering if anyone has found a higher quality fully synthetic with greater shear stability, similar cold and hot viscosity, etc that would work better than the approved ATF that uses group III base stocks. Fluids like Pentosin ATF or Liqui Moly ATF 1600? Would they be better?
http://www.pentosin.net/pressrelease...in_ATF1_V3.pdf
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/m...%201600_EN.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=30704
Just curious. If there is evidence that fluids like this will not be better that's ok but I had to ask for curiosity sake if there is a better option out there that the oil experts know of.
Thanks. Mike
http://www.pentosin.net/pressrelease...in_ATF1_V3.pdf
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/m...%201600_EN.pdf
http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=30704
Just curious. If there is evidence that fluids like this will not be better that's ok but I had to ask for curiosity sake if there is a better option out there that the oil experts know of.
Thanks. Mike
Last edited by bhvrdr; Jan 15, 2012 at 12:15 PM.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
No they won't. It's a good question which I can answer very simply. Full synthetic or very high Group number base oils, GpIII & above have their downfalls. Additive miscibility steadily becomes more & more of an issue. i.e. the additive will not dissolve or disperse in the base oil.
So to achieve the desired performance we use the synthetic base fluid for the high VI, oxidation stability etc. properties it brings to the formulation while using a small proportion of petroleum base stock as a co-solvent to get the additives into the blend & stable.
100% synthetic is not always better - in fact far from it.
Don't worry. Benz & the oil industry have really done their homework on this product through it's many generations from 236.1 to 236.14.
So to achieve the desired performance we use the synthetic base fluid for the high VI, oxidation stability etc. properties it brings to the formulation while using a small proportion of petroleum base stock as a co-solvent to get the additives into the blend & stable.
100% synthetic is not always better - in fact far from it.
Don't worry. Benz & the oil industry have really done their homework on this product through it's many generations from 236.1 to 236.14.
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Joined: Nov 2011
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From: Florida, USA
2012 e350, a BMW, an Audi, a Camaro
No they won't. It's a good question which I can answer very simply. Full synthetic or very high Group number base oils, GpIII & above have their downfalls. Additive miscibility steadily becomes more & more of an issue. i.e. the additive will not dissolve or disperse in the base oil.
So to achieve the desired performance we use the synthetic base fluid for the high VI, oxidation stability etc. properties it brings to the formulation while using a small proportion of petroleum base stock as a co-solvent to get the additives into the blend & stable.
100% synthetic is not always better - in fact far from it.
Don't worry. Benz & the oil industry have really done their homework on this product through it's many generations from 236.1 to 236.14.
So to achieve the desired performance we use the synthetic base fluid for the high VI, oxidation stability etc. properties it brings to the formulation while using a small proportion of petroleum base stock as a co-solvent to get the additives into the blend & stable.
100% synthetic is not always better - in fact far from it.
Don't worry. Benz & the oil industry have really done their homework on this product through it's many generations from 236.1 to 236.14.
cheers! Mike
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From: East Texas
2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
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From: Wichita, KS
2009 C300 Luxury P1 w/Multimedia, Arctic White
I think i'm going to drop mine down to a 30K mile service. The cost of a fluid change is nothing compared to replacing transmission parts. Plus, that number is easier to remember.
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
In fact - Johnand - who I consider the board's guru on this transmission is advising a 30K change to all W203 members who have the early generation & more troublesome versions of this transmission.
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Wayne
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
I wish we had this sensible response from all. On the W209 forum we have an Indy recommending the use of non-approved Valvoline Maxlife which has the wrong frictional properties just to start with. We support Indy's on this forum & it makes me mad when they somehow think they know more than the designers of the transmission working in conjunction with the oil industry to look after their design & their customers.
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From: NJ
2008 C350 Sport
I just called my dealer (where I purchased the car) as well as the MB dealer most local to my place of business. My dealer quoted $459 for the trans flush/service while the dealer close by work quoted $365...
Any clue why the service prices vary so much for the same job (fyi - I also looked on line for specials and there is a dealer by the name of Hoffman MB in Illinois, if I remember correctly, quoting $299 for the same service)
Also - I questioned both service managers regarding the torque converter being drained and received the same reply from both "We no longer pull the trans to complete the service, therefore the torque converter is not included" - Glyn, is this accurate?
I am at 42K miles, last service was at 34k and I was told at that point to wait until service indicator for the next due service was on, and complete the trans at that time...
Any clue why the service prices vary so much for the same job (fyi - I also looked on line for specials and there is a dealer by the name of Hoffman MB in Illinois, if I remember correctly, quoting $299 for the same service)
Also - I questioned both service managers regarding the torque converter being drained and received the same reply from both "We no longer pull the trans to complete the service, therefore the torque converter is not included" - Glyn, is this accurate?
I am at 42K miles, last service was at 34k and I was told at that point to wait until service indicator for the next due service was on, and complete the trans at that time...
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
I can't believe these @ss---- dealers. You don't have to pull the transmission to change the converter. There is a rubber plug in the bellhousing. You remove it, rotate the engine until the TC plug lines up. You undo the plug & drain the converter.
The converter MUST be drained. It holds 4 litres of oil - nearly half the charge. Just insist they do it. Take the latest WIS method from Johnands service thread in the stickies & tell them to follow it EXACTLY.
Don't know why prices vary. The parts & fluid cost is nearly $200.
The converter MUST be drained. It holds 4 litres of oil - nearly half the charge. Just insist they do it. Take the latest WIS method from Johnands service thread in the stickies & tell them to follow it EXACTLY.
Don't know why prices vary. The parts & fluid cost is nearly $200.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jan 23, 2012 at 03:26 PM.
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From: East Texas
2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
I just called my dealer (where I purchased the car) as well as the MB dealer most local to my place of business. My dealer quoted $459 for the trans flush/service while the dealer close by work quoted $365...
Any clue why the service prices vary so much for the same job (fyi - I also looked on line for specials and there is a dealer by the name of Hoffman MB in Illinois, if I remember correctly, quoting $299 for the same service)
Also - I questioned both service managers regarding the torque converter being drained and received the same reply from both "We no longer pull the trans to complete the service, therefore the torque converter is not included" - Glyn, is this accurate?
I am at 42K miles, last service was at 34k and I was told at that point to wait until service indicator for the next due service was on, and complete the trans at that time...
Any clue why the service prices vary so much for the same job (fyi - I also looked on line for specials and there is a dealer by the name of Hoffman MB in Illinois, if I remember correctly, quoting $299 for the same service)
Also - I questioned both service managers regarding the torque converter being drained and received the same reply from both "We no longer pull the trans to complete the service, therefore the torque converter is not included" - Glyn, is this accurate?
I am at 42K miles, last service was at 34k and I was told at that point to wait until service indicator for the next due service was on, and complete the trans at that time...
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ce-thread.html
Open and print this PDF:
2)Automatic Transmission Oil and Filter Change - This is the latest up to date MB WIS document on how to service the transmission.
You may also want to print the torque converter draining instructions.
EDIT: And this...
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ce-thread.html
Take this information to the dealership. Show them that you know what M-B requires for a fluid & filter change. Watch them crawfish and squirm.
Wayne
Last edited by venchka; Jan 23, 2012 at 03:39 PM.
