Belt tore/replacement
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Belt tore/replacement
Long story short:
Questions:
- my belt tore last night
- it has 100k miles on it
- took me monthS to get the car running with the ESL being down & now this (SIGH*)
- Dealership says $270 for just the belt and the pulley (this is me purchasing the parts, not them doing it)
Questions:
- What is everything you all think I should replace? The belt, tension holder, and the pulleys?
- Do you think these parts would work? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...BoCMDcQAvD_BwE
- prices vary a lot online so idk what to think. I'm teaching myself how to do all these by research, sorry if questions sound stupid.
- 2010 C300 (i believe sport)
- 100k (maybe 110k) miles on it
idk what engine type it is. As in 272 or 273...idk any of- typed my VIN online and I got this: V6 GASOLINE ENGINE M272 E30 GA - Automatic
Last edited by Logan_Volcan; 12-10-2019 at 12:45 PM.
#2
Super Member
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
One of the easier DIY's/ FCPEuro is a good source for parts also. They have a DIY link in addition to the above for changing the serpentine belt. The various pulleys, belt tensioner may or may mot be failing. A frozen pulley could have caused the belt failure. Easy enough to change them out if you have the torx sockets needed for removal/installation. With the belt off, they should spin freely without a rough, grinding noise or "feel". I'd change them out with the kit to be on the safe side..not terribly expensive and you can get a some experience auto wrenching on your W204.
One of the easier DIY's/ FCPEuro is a good source for parts also. They have a DIY link in addition to the above for changing the serpentine belt. The various pulleys, belt tensioner may or may mot be failing. A frozen pulley could have caused the belt failure. Easy enough to change them out if you have the torx sockets needed for removal/installation. With the belt off, they should spin freely without a rough, grinding noise or "feel". I'd change them out with the kit to be on the safe side..not terribly expensive and you can get a some experience auto wrenching on your W204.
Last edited by gamma300C; 12-11-2019 at 06:16 AM.
#3
Senior Member
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ce-thread.html
Check out the MISC section, it will tell you everything you need to know about replacing your tensioner/pulleys/belt, with all the part numbers you need.
Check out the MISC section, it will tell you everything you need to know about replacing your tensioner/pulleys/belt, with all the part numbers you need.
The following users liked this post:
Logan_Volcan (12-11-2019)
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
One of the easier DIY's/ FCPEuro is a good source for parts also. They have a DIY link in addition to the above for changing the serpentine belt. The various pulleys, belt tensioner may or may mot be failing. A frozen pulley could have caused the belt failure. Easy enough to change them out if you have the torx sockets needed for removal/installation. With the belt off, they should spin freely without a rough, grinding noise or "feel". I'd change them out with the kit to be on the safe side..not terribly expensive and you can get a some experience auto wrenching on your W204.
One of the easier DIY's/ FCPEuro is a good source for parts also. They have a DIY link in addition to the above for changing the serpentine belt. The various pulleys, belt tensioner may or may mot be failing. A frozen pulley could have caused the belt failure. Easy enough to change them out if you have the torx sockets needed for removal/installation. With the belt off, they should spin freely without a rough, grinding noise or "feel". I'd change them out with the kit to be on the safe side..not terribly expensive and you can get a some experience auto wrenching on your W204.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ce-thread.html
Check out the MISC section, it will tell you everything you need to know about replacing your tensioner/pulleys/belt, with all the part numbers you need.
Check out the MISC section, it will tell you everything you need to know about replacing your tensioner/pulleys/belt, with all the part numbers you need.
#5
Senior Member
You can try to test your pulleys/bearings and tensioner, it would give you some good experience with checking these things and it could make a problem reveal itself (seized pulley/etc.)
After that, with a 100k mileage, a broken belt and if I don’t know the last time they were replaced (if ever), I would buy a kit and replace everything.
After that, with a 100k mileage, a broken belt and if I don’t know the last time they were replaced (if ever), I would buy a kit and replace everything.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
You can try to test your pulleys/bearings and tensioner, it would give you some good experience with checking these things and it could make a problem reveal itself (seized pulley/etc.)
After that, with a 100k mileage, a broken belt and if I don’t know the last time they were replaced (if ever), I would buy a kit and replace everything.
After that, with a 100k mileage, a broken belt and if I don’t know the last time they were replaced (if ever), I would buy a kit and replace everything.
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
That makes so much more sense. Thank you Gamma, you all have been a great deal of help! I ordered all of the parts and they should be here by monday hopefully. Let's see if I can install everything and get the car running again by monday (fingers crossed)
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Update:
FCP/euro were freaking incredible and very helpful. Parts are so far working perfectly and their price are jaw dropping.
Installing everything was super easy (way easier than a locked ESL that's for sure lol). Thank you everyone for being so helpful! I'm so happy everything is fixed now
FCP/euro were freaking incredible and very helpful. Parts are so far working perfectly and their price are jaw dropping.
Installing everything was super easy (way easier than a locked ESL that's for sure lol). Thank you everyone for being so helpful! I'm so happy everything is fixed now
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Xzero (12-17-2019)
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I should of just responded to this one instead of making a new thread but when I accelerate the belt now makes noise and it seems like it is being rubbed against something and slowly degrading one side of it but idk what is causing it. I checked everything and I installed the belt exactly like the examples online had it. On idle it doesn't make any noise only when accelerating.
#11
Super Member
Are you sure you put the pulleys on in the right direction..sometimes easy to reverse install and the offset will be slightly off rubbing one edge of the belt and squealing.. Take off the belt and see if all the pulleys freely spin if you are sure the pulleys are 'in line".
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Are you sure you put the pulleys on in the right direction..sometimes easy to reverse install and the offset will be slightly off rubbing one edge of the belt and squealing.. Take off the belt and see if all the pulleys freely spin if you are sure the pulleys are 'in line".
#13
Super Member
Yes, the idler pulleys should spin pretty darn freely. When I have reverse mounted pulleys on other cars, they have binded. A correctly mounted pulley that doesn't spin freely obviously has a shot bearing.
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Okay that's good to know. I'm going to take off the belt and see if they spin on themselves now. Will update on the progress. Thank you for the help
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I pulled it off yesterday and one of the pullies the smooth side wasn't the one that was toward the car and after googling and youtubing it I found out that the smooth side is one that needs to be towards the engine so I reversed it but now it squeaks even more.
I recorded a video of it so put idk if it would help. All the pullies spin easy when you spin them with your finger and they don't make any noise.
I recorded a video of it so put idk if it would help. All the pullies spin easy when you spin them with your finger and they don't make any noise.
#18
Super Member
So you are pretty sure ALL the pulleys are on right now ? Is it possible the alternator or PS brackets are a bit loose so their pulleys are off kilter ? Give them a good grab and see if they move/wobble even a touch. How much deflection does the belt have to finger pressure at midpoint at its longest free length..should be 1/4" ideally, less than 1/2". Can you located the squeaking to a more localized area using a cardboard tube as a stethoscope ? With the belt running, spray some water with a spray bottle on each pulley area individually to see if you can reduce/make the squeak stop. Try not to soak the belt too much so it is running wet over all the pulleys. The anterior edge of the belt is the only rubbed area ,right? Forward facing edge of all ribbed pulleys have no rough areas, burrs ? If all else fails, an old trick was, with belt running, was to use a wooden slat like a ruler with a slot the width a bit bigger than the belt edge on one end and push the belt towards the rear at each pulley (lt/rt of the pulley) to see if the squeak changed. I presume the squeak is pretty continuous on acceleration, still quiet at idle? You'll need to have a helper for these tests.
#19
Junior Member
Thread Starter
So you are pretty sure ALL the pulleys are on right now ? Is it possible the alternator or PS brackets are a bit loose so their pulleys are off kilter ? Give them a good grab and see if they move/wobble even a touch. How much deflection does the belt have to finger pressure at midpoint at its longest free length..should be 1/4" ideally, less than 1/2". Can you located the squeaking to a more localized area using a cardboard tube as a stethoscope ? With the belt running, spray some water with a spray bottle on each pulley area individually to see if you can reduce/make the squeak stop. Try not to soak the belt too much so it is running wet over all the pulleys. The anterior edge of the belt is the only rubbed area ,right? Forward facing edge of all ribbed pulleys have no rough areas, burrs ? If all else fails, an old trick was, with belt running, was to use a wooden slat like a ruler with a slot the width a bit bigger than the belt edge on one end and push the belt towards the rear at each pulley (lt/rt of the pulley) to see if the squeak changed. I presume the squeak is pretty continuous on acceleration, still quiet at idle? You'll need to have a helper for these tests.
I'm going to see if I can re-read these and test things out and make a video of what is happening and post it. Not gonna lie, I'm shocked that I was even able to change my ESL and get that fixed and even change the belt. I think since one thing after another has been happening to this car my mind is f&*cked on it but I have to fix it myself since it cost way less.
#21
Junior Member
Thread Starter
#22
Super Member
Sounds like you undid the lower splined part of the steering column...did you have to send the whole assembly in since the ESL was locked ? If unlocked you could have just dropped down the steering column from the upper side, right?
#23
Junior Member
Thread Starter
My aux cable has also gone out so once I have some money saved it up I'm going to install an android auto that I found from alibaba/aliexpress in it. My car had that little ipod connection and navigation system that are all connected to a box in the glove compartment and apparently mercedes (based on what's been posted) charges $1500 to fix those. The day my ESL went out my battery had also gone out in a parking garage and after I fixed the ESL 3 weeks later my belt tore while I was driving lol.
#24
Super Member
Yikes !! Was your belt so old that it shredded or is there something going on to cause to break...something that still persists ?
Last edited by gamma300C; 01-15-2020 at 04:51 PM.
#25
Junior Member
Thread Starter
During these time my service A came up as well and I couldn't believe how easy it was to do it and that I use to pay so much for someone else to do it.