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How did you make out. Hows car running? I ended up putting in brand new axle from gkn. Holding up fine for now. I know eventually I'll have to replace pan but don't wanna pay someone to do it. Might try to do it at a do it yourself garage they charge 100 a day for lift and tool rental. Just curious how long the job is total. You think I could do it in 2 days? With right tools
that shaft you replaced was supposed to be removed first, put in a vise and then an air chisel can be used. I did that and used a torch and a slide hammer to get the beast off. It was not easy. Going to use lots of anti seize on the replacement
Keep us posted on how well the aftermarket axles work. I was always skeptical and there seems to be a lot of mixed reviews. It's hard to justify paying 1500$ for a new oem one but how many of you are running after market axles?
I got mine from GKN. They make the cv joints for OEM Audi. They make mb also. They were $518 ea
After reading this, i guess the w203 isnt so bad.. i 'only' had to lower the subframe and let it hang on the suspension arms (just the roll bar drop links removed) for my car. Anyway, heres the wis instructions for this w204 c300.
After reading this, i guess the w203 isnt so bad.. i 'only' had to lower the subframe and let it hang on the suspension arms (just the roll bar drop links removed) for my car. Anyway, heres the wis instructions for this w204 c300.
There are 2 different oil pans. The wis you posted is for non 4matic models. Do u have the 4matic wis? Ty in advance
Thanks, it returned these after searching 204.081 Hmm can you check these 2... engine code 272?
*ive uploaded the lower on accident. check the 204-08 document.. surely thats the correct one? lol
*sealant paths also (again, i hope the one you need is in there somewhere!)
I also bought the mb sealant. Looking forward to not having a 180$ applicator lol I took engine out and the rear seal wasn't leaking but the base of the seal at the pan is a little. More from the vacuum pumps on both heads. The pan will be easier on the stand
How long it took you to get the engine out? Any difficulties with removing transmission (upper bolts)? I have leak from oil pan on my W221, it has similar design, and I’m thinking to remove the engine to fix it..
I have a spare 2043301400 passenger side axle from gkn brand new I paid 550 for it will sell for 350. If
anybody is interested lmk. It's on ebay for 399
Hey guys, just had this horrific problem. The cv axle intermediate shaft was rust frozen to the cv axle. When banging on the cv axle to get it to slide off the shaft the Circlip holding the intermediate shaft broke out of the upper oil pan housing and cv axle didn't come off the shaft.. Ruining the housing circlip channel and to make it non re-installable. Doing research to find several other who have had this same issue. Of course this happens AFTER I replaced the rotted rear subframe, replace the motor mounts, (both of those are big jobs) replaced all 4 tires, front brakes and rotors, and several other items. The cv axle boots were worn out and split, so I decided to replace the axles while I was doing everything else. Well that was a bad call. LOL. So the intermediate shaft bearing would still seat in the housing but no way to hold it in. I even put it back together and hoped it would just stay on its own.. NOT. Drove it around for 2 days, third day it popped out and had to have car towed back. So, after all these other insane jobs I just finished I'm now looking at an upper oil pan job. What seems like a monumental job on its own. This car has 175k on it, is in beautiful condition inside and out and all the work done to it already makes it impossible to just throw away. So, I decided to give something a try as the oil pan was kinda ruined anyway. I decided to Epoxy weld the bearing on the intermediate shaft into its seat. It just needs to be held there to avoid being pulled out. I slathered the seat with weld epoxy, and the outside race of the bearing on the intermediate shaft and re-installed. No doubt I am not the first to try this but hey, its worth a shot. If I need to replace the pan because it wont hold I still need to replace the pan. The only other item is I may also need a replacement intermediate shaft as the epoxy on the bearing may be a problem. I can get both the parts for under $500 new, used half that I am sure. I am hoping the bearing on the shaft will stay in the seat with the help of the epoxy. Its a gamble out of desperation I know, but desperate times.... I will update after a few weeks if this actually works.
I feel.your pain. I made a makeshift square washer and bolted intermediate shaft onto oil pan. Wasn't easy but it's still holding. Used a door hole cutter and 4 self tapping screws
How the hell did you get in there with power tools? I thought about fashioning something to hold the bearing in place. But no way to really get tools in there. Hopefully the weld epoxy will hold fast. Fingers crossed!
Used a couple of extensions with driver. Had someone with me to help guide it. Use can actually get nuts on the back of two bolts. The other 2 self tapping.
I also feel your pain having done exactly what you did a couple of weeks ago (seperate thread opened). My plan is to have the retaining flange on the oil pan weld-repaired. It will probably not be possible to weld the broken off pieces (which I found laying around after realising what I had just done...) as they are quite small, so most likely it's a build-up and grind job. I've had my fingers crossed for the past couple of weeks that this will be possible, and will report back when it's done (or not).
The square-washer idea is clearly quicker and easier, especially if it can be done with the pan in place, but I have nearly everything necessary removed by now (both cv axles, steering rack, sway bar, cat, drive shaft disconnected, subframe dropped). "just" need to take off diff and AC compressor (the third, back, bolt of which I could not get to when the frame was on >:-( ).
Hey guys, just had this horrific problem. The cv axle intermediate shaft was rust frozen to the cv axle. When banging on the cv axle to get it to slide off the shaft the Circlip holding the intermediate shaft broke out of the upper oil pan housing and cv axle didn't come off the shaft.. Ruining the housing circlip channel and to make it non re-installable. Doing research to find several other who have had this same issue. Of course this happens AFTER I replaced the rotted rear subframe, replace the motor mounts, (both of those are big jobs) replaced all 4 tires, front brakes and rotors, and several other items. The cv axle boots were worn out and split, so I decided to replace the axles while I was doing everything else. Well that was a bad call. LOL. So the intermediate shaft bearing would still seat in the housing but no way to hold it in. I even put it back together and hoped it would just stay on its own.. NOT. Drove it around for 2 days, third day it popped out and had to have car towed back. So, after all these other insane jobs I just finished I'm now looking at an upper oil pan job. What seems like a monumental job on its own. This car has 175k on it, is in beautiful condition inside and out and all the work done to it already makes it impossible to just throw away. So, I decided to give something a try as the oil pan was kinda ruined anyway. I decided to Epoxy weld the bearing on the intermediate shaft into its seat. It just needs to be held there to avoid being pulled out. I slathered the seat with weld epoxy, and the outside race of the bearing on the intermediate shaft and re-installed. No doubt I am not the first to try this but hey, its worth a shot. If I need to replace the pan because it wont hold I still need to replace the pan. The only other item is I may also need a replacement intermediate shaft as the epoxy on the bearing may be a problem. I can get both the parts for under $500 new, used half that I am sure. I am hoping the bearing on the shaft will stay in the seat with the help of the epoxy. Its a gamble out of desperation I know, but desperate times.... I will update after a few weeks if this actually works.
The intermediate shaft slides in pretty easily all the way until the bearing seats in its place. Shouldn’t have to bang hard on it. I was extremely careful when reinstalling the cv axle on that shaft. Didn’t want to disturb the epoxy. I liberally greased the intermediate shaft and the female end of the cv axle before reinstalling. Gentle hammer taps then slid it onto the intermediate shaft. Drove car 2 days now. So far so good.
Did this epoxy deal work? Did it hold? Did the square washer hold?
Originally Posted by craigndee
How the hell did you get in there with power tools? I thought about fashioning something to hold the bearing in place. But no way to really get tools in there. Hopefully the weld epoxy will hold fast. Fingers crossed!
I have same issue wanted to see if square washer or epoxy held long term for you guys?
Yes square washer. I used 2 self tapping screws and 2 screws with nuts. I would have did all screws with nuts but I could only do 2 not enough area to work with I would go epoxy route if the other c300 owner is still driving imo. I got preet good at taking suspension off. Do one side in 45 minutes.
Pretty labor intensive. Remove exhaust, disconnect front drive shaft, remove front CV axles and intermediate shaft. I opted to leave the rack and pinion attached to the front axle carrier (subframe). Then remove front diff from side of engine then the oil pan.
Back story: I needed to replace drivers CV axle and it was rust welded to intermediate shaft. Slide hammer attempt yanked intermediate shaft out of oil pan pass through breaking the flange. Sure wish I had seen the C Clip holding it in....
The culprit
Subframe out Lift holding engine up
Oil pan exposed
can you show the points you used on the engine to suspend it? I’ve looked everywhere for that info and had no luck!
12-03-2020, 12:24 PM
