When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2008 c300 4matic Upper oil pan damaged will need to replace
Does anybody know the procedure for removing the upper oil pan. I know the front subframe has to be removed. And maybe engine lifted. Before I take it somewhere wanna have an idea how much work is involved so I dont get ripped off. The oil pan was cracked when drivers side axle was being removed. Ty in advance
I have a c300 2011 4matic. Busted oil pan trying to remove cv joint. Future reference there was a ring clip and the shaft would come out then it can be removed. Im doing this job myself and my plan is to just pull it out the top. I haven't come across why it would need to be put on a lift and dropped out the bottom after removing sub frame. My biggest hang up is the gear box. Ill have to undo the shaft. The bolts that hold the brace on are in the way of the frame so I may leave it attached when I pull the motor. Im almost all the way there except fuel and a/c. I would estimate $1000 but I asked Google and she would do the job for around $800 LOL!
I took mine to a shady mechanic who told me oil pan needed to be replaced. I questioned it and had car towed. When I went under car to look at what was going on I could see where he has tried to air hammer axle off destroying the the part where snap ring holds intermediate shaft in the oil pan. I called the shop. Was told mechanic never touched car. Complete bs. So your going to remove engine? Sounds like alot of work. What i temporarily did was make a square washer and bolted intermediate shaft into oil pan. It worked for awhile but getting crunching noise now. I have completely refreshed suspension. I just wanna do it right now. Here is a pic of bolted shaft
Pretty labor intensive. Remove exhaust, disconnect front drive shaft, remove front CV axles and intermediate shaft. I opted to leave the rack and pinion attached to the front axle carrier (subframe). Then remove front diff from side of engine then the oil pan.
Back story: I needed to replace drivers CV axle and it was rust welded to intermediate shaft. Slide hammer attempt yanked intermediate shaft out of oil pan pass through breaking the flange. Sure wish I had seen the C Clip holding it in.... The culprit Subframe out Lift holding engine up Oil pan exposed
Engine is staying in place, just suspended with the lift. Not interested in disconnecting coolant lines, wiring harnesses or transmission. Job is already way more involved than initially planned!
Finally got the broke pan out. Had to make a run to Lowe's for a 12mm hex bit to get access to the last two bolts holding the pan on. Now to begin assembly...
Last edited by GunDriver; Nov 8, 2020 at 05:45 PM.
How did you make out. Hows car running? I ended up putting in brand new axle from gkn. Holding up fine for now. I know eventually I'll have to replace pan but don't wanna pay someone to do it. Might try to do it at a do it yourself garage they charge 100 a day for lift and tool rental. Just curious how long the job is total. You think I could do it in 2 days? With right tools
Finally got the broke pan out. Had to make a run to Lowe's for a 12mm hex bit to get access to the last two bolts holding the pan on. Now to begin assembly...
how much was that pan? It looks new. I found a used one out of NJ total of 250 ship inc. Also did you use mb sealant? I know mb is picky about where and how much to use.
Stanley and FLM I will try to answer you both in this reply. First the parts came from Ebay: I did use MB specified sealant I bought at the dealer. About $20 for 50ml tube. They have a special gun to dispense for about $180 but I just muscled it and had sore hands.
Two days is possible. A lift would make the work underneath alot easier than laying on your back, however supporting the engine would be a challenge.
I'm on the road now, but later if you want I can post a step by step
Last edited by GunDriver; Nov 27, 2020 at 10:42 AM.
Keep us posted on how well the aftermarket axles work. I was always skeptical and there seems to be a lot of mixed reviews. It's hard to justify paying 1500$ for a new oem one but how many of you are running after market axles?
Last edited by W204Motorsports; Nov 29, 2020 at 11:03 PM.
If you buy aftermarket be careful. There are 2 different types one with a 4.25inch shaft and a 5.5 inch shaft. Personally I would invest in one from gkn. They are 500 but come with warranty.
If you buy aftermarket be careful. There are 2 different types one with a 4.25inch shaft and a 5.5 inch shaft. Personally I would invest in one from gkn. They are 500 but come with warranty.
I was not aware of the two different sizes, is that just an aftermarket thing? Because the part number is the same for all 4matic w204, the E350/E550s also share the same axle and lastly even the w205 front axles have the same part numbers.
This is the long version. Usually the short version is the one you should get. But like the description says measure it. I ordered the long version from partsgeek. I didnt know there were different versions so when I took out axle I was like wth. This doesn't match. Had to send back. Anyway that was the beginning of a whole new suspension overhaul. Took over a year and the one thing I learned. Dont use aftermarket parts unless they are from lemforder or gkn.
I also had no idea about the different lengths. I measured the one I got on Ebay and it is the shorter version. Guess I lucked out for once on this car. Several hundred miles on it now and so far so good.
Personally, and this is only my opinion based on my own experience, as long as its a physical match I am getting the cheapest CV I can find. I've never had a problem with the actual mechanical parts in the many CVs I've replaced. It has always been torn boots. If a boot kit is available I will just disassemble, clean, inspect, regrease, clamp a new boot on and call it a day....
Last edited by GunDriver; Dec 3, 2020 at 02:23 AM.
I also had no idea about the different lengths. I measured the one I got on Ebay and it is the shorter version. Guess I lucked out for once on this car. Several hundred miles on it now and so far so good.
Personally, and this is only my opinion based on my own experience, as long as its a physical match I am getting the cheapest CV I can find. I've never had a problem with the actual mechanical parts in the many CVs I've replaced. It has always been torn boots. If a boot kit is available I will just disassemble, clean, inspect, regrease, clamp a new boot on and call it a day....
I've read through a lot of horror stories with aftermarket mercedes front axles. A lot of people say they start making noise right after the 12 month warranty period ends. Keep us posted if they give you trouble. I personally went with low mileage used front axles, the original ones made it to 280 000km so the oem axle are definitely good quality.
Stanley and FLM I will try to answer you both in this reply. First the parts came from Ebay: I did use MB specified sealant I bought at the dealer. About $20 for 50ml tube. They have a special gun to dispense for about $180 but I just muscled it and had sore hands.
Two days is possible. A lift would make the work underneath alot easier than laying on your back, however supporting the engine would be a challenge.
I'm on the road now, but later if you want I can post a step by step
I also bought the mb sealant. Looking forward to not having a 180$ applicator lol I took engine out and the rear seal wasn't leaking but the base of the seal at the pan is a little. More from the vacuum pumps on both heads. The pan will be easier on the stand
How did you make out. Hows car running? I ended up putting in brand new axle from gkn. Holding up fine for now. I know eventually I'll have to replace pan but don't wanna pay someone to do it. Might try to do it at a do it yourself garage they charge 100 a day for lift and tool rental. Just curious how long the job is total. You think I could do it in 2 days? With right tools
that shaft you replaced was supposed to be removed first, put in a vise and then an air chisel can be used. I did that and used a torch and a slide hammer to get the beast off. It was not easy. Going to use lots of anti seize on the replacement
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
