2014 C350 RWD transmission swap
The transmission was slipping on shifts and shuddering it was running perfect then the next day is was not. The transmission cooler portion of my radiator is faulty allowing coolant and transmission fluid to mix causing catastrophic failure of the transmission. A local transmission shop told me they wanted 13,000$ to fix to.
So in one week I am going to fix it myself.
I am new to Mercedes Benz so advice is appreciate, this will not be the 1st time I have removed and reinstalled a transmission i done maybe a dozen transmissions with friends of the decades just never on a car like this
I have bought a transmission with 27,000 miles on it for 2,700$ shipped to my door I ordered a new radiator, thermostat, transmission service kit,1/4 torque wrench, and fluid pump to fill he transmission and a lot of other stuff from FCP euro. I have about another 1,300$ in the parts and tools.
I am concerned about a few things like the programming of the conductor plate and valve body ..my plan was to swap the conductor plate from the original car and the solenoids the donor transmission which came out of a 2013 c350 RWD car
Do I need to swap the valve body too? I'm hoping to get around the conductor plate reprograming procedure.
I am going to be putting the car on jack stands and do this on my back is there and special tools I might or any tricks.. Other than normal removal of a transmission on your back stuff
Do anyone know where to find a book on this topic
Last edited by BlackBenzC350; Nov 12, 2022 at 02:13 PM.




The transmission was slipping on shifts and shuddering it was running perfect then the next day is was not. The transmission cooler portion of my radiator is faulty allowing coolant and transmission fluid to mix causing catastrophic failure of the transmission. A local transmission shop told me they wanted 13,000$ to fix to.
So in one week I am going to fix it myself.
I am new to Mercedes Benz so advice is appreciate, this will not be the 1st time I have removed and reinstalled a transmission i done maybe a dozen transmissions with friends of the decades just never on a car like this
I have bought a transmission with 27,000 miles on it for 2,700$ shipped to my door I ordered a new radiator, thermostat, transmission service kit,1/4 torque wrench, and fluid pump to fill he transmission and a lot of other stuff from FCP euro. I have about another 1,300$ in the parts and tools.
I am concerned about a few things like the programming of the conductor plate and valve body ..my plan was to swap the conductor plate from the original car and the solenoids the donor transmission which came out of a 2013 c350 RWD car
Do I need to swap the valve body too? I'm hoping to get around the conductor plate reprograming procedure.
I am going to be putting the car on jack stands and do this on my back is there and special tools I might or any tricks.. Other than normal removal of a transmission on your back stuff
Do anyone know where to find a book on this topic
Mercedes 722.9 Conductor Plate TCM Repair Solution (circuitboardmedics.com)
Last edited by JettaRed; Nov 13, 2022 at 10:26 AM.
I Agree with the valve body being full of mix fluids and I was going to open it up and clean it out. I was only going to split it in half and not pull the valves out but after draining the fluid out and see how bad (white looking) I'm thinking I should completely disassemble it and clean it, I just don't know the torque specs for tighten the plates that hold the valves in. Do you know how tight to get them?
My vin number is WDDGF5HBOEA903790
I'm under the impression that my valve body is calibrated to my conductor plate, this is the reason I am swapping the VB and the conductor plate instead of just the conductor plate
I only have a few bell housing bolts left and it's out of the car so far it's been one of the easiest transmission I've pulled out
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I Agree with the valve body being full of mix fluids and I was going to open it up and clean it out. I was only going to split it in half and not pull the valves out but after draining the fluid out and see how bad (white looking) I'm thinking I should completely disassemble it and clean it, I just don't know the torque specs for tighten the plates that hold the valves in. Do you know how tight to get them?
My vin number is WDDGF5HBOEA903790
I'm under the impression that my valve body is calibrated to my conductor plate, this is the reason I am swapping the VB and the conductor plate instead of just the conductor plate
I only have a few bell housing bolts left and it's out of the car so far it's been one of the easiest transmission I've pulled out
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