meazz1

Have the spark plugs and coil packs tested out ok?
You might have mentioned it but I did not read closely.

heatmiser2003

The plugs were replaced last summer 1 because they were from 2010 lol and 2 because of this issue (I thought maybe it would fix it)

I haven't tested the coil packs, I'm assuming I would need a scanner? I was looking at this one that Jetta posted iCarsoft MB V3.0 ; I was reading reviews though and people were saying that out of the box it doesn't do much and a lot of the features you need to buy, not sure if anyone has had good luck with that scanner

TimC300

Have you tried putting a bottle or two of Techron in the gas tank? I have been using it for years now, if i notice its running a little rough usually at stop lights ill put a bottle in and then i always forget about the issue because it seems to go away. Im cheap and dont just buy stuff for the heck of it, but the techron does seem to make the engine run better after using it. Not saying its a miracle cure, wont fix an obvious issue but maybe it will help clean the injectors.

I also know gas treatment products do work, at least at keeping gas fresher. I put seafoam in my gas containers for all my small engine equipment and never have any issues even with gas a year old. I was at Lowes last fall and picked up two craftsman pressure washers being sold "parts only" for $25 each. I asked what the deal was and was told they were customer returns and would not run and too expensive to fix. I bought them both, turns out it was just really bad gas, turned brown like varnish and had a horrible smell. Took the carbs apart and cleaned them and that was the issue. basically the pilot jets were clogged, used a bread tie wire to unclog them. There was also a green scale built up in the bowls. They started right up and ran perfectly. Ive had the same gas with seafoam in the tank for months, I recently pulled the bowl just to check and they look as good as the day I cleaned it. It starts right up 1st pull. I even have the same spark plugs in it came with. Sold one for a profit. Dont even have a need for a pressure washer, just wanted something to work on.

I have a Foxwell scanner, ill go out later and fiddle around with it, im curious what i can check with it.

TimC300

Try inspecting the intake manifold, see if theres anything wrong with the linkage for the intake flaps. Damage can cause rough running, usually a check engine light along with it. These are on the front. Common issue with higher mileage engines.



Part circled in red.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Out of the box, the iCarsoft MB V3.0 is fine. There is nothing to add or can be added, unlike other scanners that may require annual subscriptions or purchase of additional features. I use both my iCarsoft MB V3.0 and my LAUNCH Creader Elite Benz all the time. If I think I need something more, I use my Autel MaxiDAS DS808K. If I need something less, I use my BlueDriver scanner just to check for codes. I also have a XENTRY clone that I rarely use or need to use because the set up is a bit more complicated.

If you want to be able just to read and clear codes, BlueDriver is your least expensive choice. If you want to do more, get one of the others. But you're not going to really know what is going on until you get a scanner.

TimC300

Are you using 91 minimum fuel? I happen to be reading my operators manual and they even mention using an approved fuel additive. I cant seem to locate it but i know that Techron is approved for use by Mercedes.

heatmiser2003

Hey guys sorry I was not getting the emails saying the thread was updated!

I am using and have been since I got the car 93 octane. I’m not opposed to Seafoam I use it all the time in my snow mobiles.

I think the issue might be the secondary air pump. I have just replaced it unfortunately the CEL is still on (I also replaced the fuse and relay). I read that if that is not working properly it could cause loss of power and your rpm’s to drop (idk that’s sort of my issue).

I guess now I have to check the 2 check valves, air injection control valve, air injection pump check valve.

I think I am going to get the icarsoft or whatever it’s called, can that clear the check engine light?

heatmiser2003

Does anyone know where the

Mercedes Secondary Air Injection Pump Check Valve goes?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-secondary-air-injection-pump-check-valve-slk300-g550-mer-0025401897#fitment

I replaced the following items
Secondary air pump
Fuse / relay
Secondary air injection control valve
The two blue check valves

TimC300

It is on the front of the intake. May have to remove the intake to get to it, not sure.

TimC300

If you need a new one they have it for a good price at eEuroparts. 2yr warranty. And you can get $10 off your first order for signing up to there loyalty program, which gives you points for every purchase. Just saying.


https://eeuroparts.com?wlpr_ref=eEuro_atc0xpy6j

heatmiser2003

Thanks Tim, of course not an easy fix apparently. Will the scan tools show me exactly which part is having an issue to throw the error code P0410, I replaced almost all the parts

TimC300

I looked at the photo above more closely and it looks like there are 2 change over valves. I didnt see the one behind the hose. Heres a better photo of them.

TimC300

I just reread the last post. Is that the only code youre getting, the P0410? I see you replaced a few things. Have you check the secondary air check valves, i read some people have luck with either replacing the check valves or cleaning them or cleaning the ports they lead to.

Im not too familiar with exactly what a scanner will show, if it will be able to test/monitor the 2 changeover valves. Im sure there's a way to narrow it down if those are not working.

If you havent already it is failry easy to remove the check valves to inspect them, inspect the ports for carbon blocking them. Make sure to order new gaskets if working on them. I picked up the gaskets on a previous parts order, just havent gotten around to working on them. I just wanted to clean them up inside for fun. They are fairly expensive, I wouldnt just buy new ones unless really needed.


Passenger check valve held on by 3 torx head bolts. Its connected to air pump by the big hose.



Torque specs for reinstall.


heres an interesting thread i came across. Deals with code P0410.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-solved-2.html

theres plenty of other threads with all different solutions. Some turned out to simply be a broken brittle vacuum hose. One person forgot to hook the vacuum line back up after working on there car.

heatmiser2003

Thanks for all the follow up, I was going to check the changeover valves yesterday but decided not to since I did not have the new gaskets, all of a sudden today the light turned off on it own, i drove the car multiple times and it has not returned.

So some how we got side tracked into the check engine light lol but now back to the original issue, the stuttering i have no idea what to check with that, the two intake plastic pieces are broken, would the intake manifold sucking in hot air cause this? The issue has definitely gotten worse over the past few months.

TimC300

If you cant fix them I would get new ones. Cant duct tape them for now? Can find an aftermarket set for around $30 on ebay and Amazon. Im not sure how not having them effects the car running, I seem to remember seeing a Legitstreetcars video where he was running a Mercedes with them totally missing and he didn't seem concerned about it. But I have no idea. At least get them and cross it off your list.

Im also forgetting what exactly "stuttering" is, what the cars doing.

heatmiser2003

I’m having a hard time explaining it, the car seems to hesitate or studder at all speeds and rpm’s. When it’s doing it the rpm isn’t raising or dropping the car just seems like it’s losing power or something I don’t know. You can hear it and feel it in the car.

TimC300

Have you inspected the air filter lately? Ive been reading through some posts where others seem to have a similar issue as you describe. One person claimed cleaning the mass air flow sensor fixed it, another said there mechanic reprogrammed some module but forgot which one, someone else claims its a fauly gas pedal. Someone else recommended taking it on the highway and rive it like a race car to clean everything out, another said techron fixed it. Im thinking a dirty/clogged air filter/filters may lead to loss of power when accelerating.

Heres a post i cam across, doesnt seem to have a solution but wondering if your issue is similar?

https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...eleration.html

heatmiser2003

thank you, yeah my air filters haven’t been changed in a long time, and I can look up how to check mas air flow.

I found the paper from Autozone with the other codes. I guess this is all the codes ever? Since I have no CEL

TimC300

Some of those codes may still be active, just not triggering the check engine light to stay on. Like the rear left and right abs sensors may be faulty.

Im seeing a few for throttle/pedal position sensor. Have to dig deeper but could be faulty throttle pedal, or faulty throttle position sensor, or dirty throttle body etc.

I came across an interesting article here:

https://www.mercedesmedic.com/merced...ensor-problem/

Seems you may be able to reset the throttle, ive read this procedure elsewhere so may be true.




With my scanner it lets you view the throttle pedal input, shows the signal of how much its being pressed. I think this would show if the pedal is working properly.

Also maybe you can inspect the mass air flow sensor and throttle body. When I checked mine I noticed a small amount of oil in the elbow going to the throttle body. I did this while I was replacing the air oil separator cover and oil drip pan mounted on the back passenger side of the engine. getting to the throttle body was fairly easy, remove the air box, unclip the mass air flow sensor, then unclip the elbow below. I think i posted tons of photos of it in my UV Dye post.

Also have you changed the spark plugs, ive read that can cause the poor running.

TimC300

Here's the gaskets for the secondary air check valves. I think I may have picked them up from the Mercedes dealer parts dept since they were cheap.

heatmiser2003

Thanks for the info, I am slowly going though it.
I tried resetting the TPS sensor that did not seem to help at all.

Once it stops raining I will try and clean the MAS, and even the throttle body if I can get to it.

I can also try taking out the air filters and running it like that for a bit to see if its the air filters.

Faulty gas pedal is intriguing also

TimC300

Should be able to just inspect the air filters to see how dirty they are. I was replacing mine yearly until I actually read the maintenance manual and it recommends replacing them every 40,000 miles/4yrs. I still remove the air box at least once a year to inspect the filters and clean everything, give everything a wipe down with a clean damp microfiber towel. I was surprised to see how much junk was in the air box, leaves and sand. The secondary air pump also gets its air from the filter box. I think the screws are T25 or T27 to get to the filters.

One thing I always noticed on mine was the metal type hanger clip in the back that fits over the top of the air box in the back was always loose. Not until I was cleaning the throttle body and put everything back did I notice that was wrong, it should snap over tight. I'm thinking whoever worked on it previously maybe didn't put the mass air flow sensor or elbow below it back properly. I cleaned everything while it was apart. I was hesitant to even touch the mas air flow sensor, the plastic tabs holding it on scared me not wanting to snap one. But it was fairly easy to do. Here's a good DIY from Pelican Parts:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...y_Cleaning.htm

With mine there was some oil in the elbow leading to the throttle body. There was also some oil in the breather hose connected to the oil separator cover. The throttle body I just wiped any oil with microfiber towel. Mass air flow sensor looked clean so didn't touch it. If you do clean yours be sure to only use the correct cleaner and let it dry completely before plugging it back in, Be sure to reconnect the hose from the air box to the secondary air pump when done, I sometimes forget to.




If the air filters do need replacing I like the Mann filters. I use there air,oil and cabin filters. Lowest price i found was on eEuroparts. And if you haven't signed up already you get $10 credit for signing for there Loyalty program so its like free shipping on your order.



The oil filters are only $6.50 too. Or they have a package of all 3 filters, air, oil and cabin filters for $37.95.

https://eeuroparts.com/?wlpr_ref=eEuro_atc0xpy6j

heatmiser2003

It’s embarrassing but this is what was in there, I don’t even smoke! I cleaned them out and ordered new ones.