Freeway stall (?)
#51
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
good + better
I checked Amp this morning on the way in.
It hovered around 20A for the first ten minutes of driving (heat on, radio on) then when I got on the freeway it went steadily down and did not go above 6A for the duration of the drive, about 30 more minutes.
Voltage was pretty much the same as last night.
It hovered around 20A for the first ten minutes of driving (heat on, radio on) then when I got on the freeway it went steadily down and did not go above 6A for the duration of the drive, about 30 more minutes.
Voltage was pretty much the same as last night.
Your test drive shows battery was discharged and then got charged all the way to 6Amp.
Alternator and battery are proven working.
> Check/clean/protect main chassis GND strap undercarriage. This is what connects the battery (-) and all the computers to the ALT (-) source at the engine.
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Aging C300 (02-21-2024)
#52
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
FCP has tranny service kits. You may find a shop that lets you provide the parts and pay only for labor. My Mercedes dealer does that for me. Last tranny service cost $300 in labor and the tranny service kit was about $200. The good thing is that the next time you service the tranny and buy the parts from FCP, you will get refunded when your return the used parts, that includes bolt, filter, stand-off pipe, pan gasket, and fluid! Damned good deal.
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Aging C300 (02-21-2024)
#53
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Fuel Filler Flap Update
Before filling up I got out and locked my car and checked the flap and IT WAS UNLOCKED. So yeah, it does in fact look like it isn’t locking any more. It closes— but doesn’t lock.
#54
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I listened to mine and can hear it locking/unlocking after the doors lock/unlock. Try listening to see if you can hear the actuator trying to move at least. You may get lucky and its just an alignment issue. Try locking with the filler flap open while listening.
I tried to look through the trunk but couldnt see it, its hidden behind insulation. I think it is meant to be removed from the trunk, I could be wrong though.
I found an actuator on ebay to see how it works. Looks like it is clipped into the surrounding. I havent located a mercedes part# so not sure its meant to be replaced if its broken or they sell you a complete assembly.
I wonder if the actuator can be function tested on a mercedes obd scanner. That is how i found my mirrors were heated, I stumbled upon the function to test it.
I tried to look through the trunk but couldnt see it, its hidden behind insulation. I think it is meant to be removed from the trunk, I could be wrong though.
I found an actuator on ebay to see how it works. Looks like it is clipped into the surrounding. I havent located a mercedes part# so not sure its meant to be replaced if its broken or they sell you a complete assembly.
I wonder if the actuator can be function tested on a mercedes obd scanner. That is how i found my mirrors were heated, I stumbled upon the function to test it.
Last edited by TimC300; 02-23-2024 at 07:00 PM.
#55
Newbie
i experienced this before, as my mechanic said w204 problem are almost all identical :
1. ECU
2. Alternator
But in my experience, this is likely alternator issue, because your alternator is failing, and cannot supply electricity to your battery, voltage drop, and cannot sustain the car, and the car went limp mode, should the steering wheels feels stiff to operate, and all your dashboard light up like christmas tree, i suggest u use the mdi in your car to check, use turn off phone + OK button to check before starting the engine, the "vehicle data" should display in your dashboard, click, and start the car..
if voltage is 12.4v or lower, and ampere is -20A and below, it is alternator problem
1. ECU
2. Alternator
But in my experience, this is likely alternator issue, because your alternator is failing, and cannot supply electricity to your battery, voltage drop, and cannot sustain the car, and the car went limp mode, should the steering wheels feels stiff to operate, and all your dashboard light up like christmas tree, i suggest u use the mdi in your car to check, use turn off phone + OK button to check before starting the engine, the "vehicle data" should display in your dashboard, click, and start the car..
if voltage is 12.4v or lower, and ampere is -20A and below, it is alternator problem
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Aging C300 (02-24-2024)
#56
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Actuator
I listened to mine and can hear it locking/unlocking after the doors lock/unlock. Try listening to see if you can hear the actuator trying to move at least. You may get lucky and its just an alignment issue. Try locking with the filler flap open while listening.
I tried to look through the trunk but couldnt see it, its hidden behind insulation. I think it is meant to be removed from the trunk, I could be wrong though.
I found an actuator on ebay to see how it works. Looks like it is clipped into the surrounding. I havent located a mercedes part# so not sure its meant to be replaced if its broken or they sell you a complete assembly.
I wonder if the actuator can be function tested on a mercedes obd scanner. That is how i found my mirrors were heated, I stumbled upon the function to test it.
I tried to look through the trunk but couldnt see it, its hidden behind insulation. I think it is meant to be removed from the trunk, I could be wrong though.
I found an actuator on ebay to see how it works. Looks like it is clipped into the surrounding. I havent located a mercedes part# so not sure its meant to be replaced if its broken or they sell you a complete assembly.
I wonder if the actuator can be function tested on a mercedes obd scanner. That is how i found my mirrors were heated, I stumbled upon the function to test it.
#57
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
voltage chaos
i experienced this before, as my mechanic said w204 problem are almost all identical :
1. ECU
2. Alternator
But in my experience, this is likely alternator issue, because your alternator is failing, and cannot supply electricity to your battery, voltage drop, and cannot sustain the car, and the car went limp mode, should the steering wheels feels stiff to operate, and all your dashboard light up like christmas tree, i suggest u use the mdi in your car to check, use turn off phone + OK button to check before starting the engine, the "vehicle data" should display in your dashboard, click, and start the car..
if voltage is 12.4v or lower, and ampere is -20A and below, it is alternator problem
1. ECU
2. Alternator
But in my experience, this is likely alternator issue, because your alternator is failing, and cannot supply electricity to your battery, voltage drop, and cannot sustain the car, and the car went limp mode, should the steering wheels feels stiff to operate, and all your dashboard light up like christmas tree, i suggest u use the mdi in your car to check, use turn off phone + OK button to check before starting the engine, the "vehicle data" should display in your dashboard, click, and start the car..
if voltage is 12.4v or lower, and ampere is -20A and below, it is alternator problem
Where I differ is I bet 95% chance ALT is fine.
The cause is remote... the SAM modules are reliably unstable ---> REBOOT + GND campaign.
> The most IMPORTANT IS TO BE SAFE:
-- Keep an eye on battery display while driving !!
-- Turn ON HL to force a fixed 13.7V voltage
-- Float-charge battery to preserve it
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 02-24-2024 at 05:35 PM.
#58
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yes, there is a lot of positive truth to that.
Where I differ is I bet 95% chance ALT is fine.
The cause is remote... the SAM modules are reliably unstable ---> REBOOT + GND campaign.
> The most IMPORTANT IS TO BE SAFE:
-- Keep an eye on battery display while driving !!
-- Turn ON HL to force a fixed 13.7V voltage
-- Float-charge battery to preserve it
Where I differ is I bet 95% chance ALT is fine.
The cause is remote... the SAM modules are reliably unstable ---> REBOOT + GND campaign.
> The most IMPORTANT IS TO BE SAFE:
-- Keep an eye on battery display while driving !!
-- Turn ON HL to force a fixed 13.7V voltage
-- Float-charge battery to preserve it
it looks like float charging requires me to remove the battery from the vehicle…?
Last edited by Aging C300; 02-24-2024 at 09:06 PM.
#59
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
#60
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#61
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
#62
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
regular charging + float charging in car is no problem.
But "AGM mode" or "Reconditioning mode" put out higher voltages that are detrimental to the car electronics while connected.
Simply unplug the GND ( - ) to disconnect Batt out of circuit in that case.
Then also disconnect AUX to prevent draining it while MAIN is disconnected. (AUX is used as a backup power source).
#63
Junior Member
Thread Starter
W204 auxiliary battery?
That much is simple:
regular charging + float charging in car is no problem.
But "AGM mode" or "Reconditioning mode" put out higher voltages that are detrimental to the car electronics while connected.
Simply unplug the GND ( - ) to disconnect Batt out of circuit in that case.
Then also disconnect AUX to prevent draining it while MAIN is disconnected. (AUX is used as a backup power source).
regular charging + float charging in car is no problem.
But "AGM mode" or "Reconditioning mode" put out higher voltages that are detrimental to the car electronics while connected.
Simply unplug the GND ( - ) to disconnect Batt out of circuit in that case.
Then also disconnect AUX to prevent draining it while MAIN is disconnected. (AUX is used as a backup power source).
Looking around it looks like W204 may not have an AUX battery…?
Last edited by Aging C300; 02-25-2024 at 11:14 AM.
#64
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2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
#65
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#66
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MY'14 W212 M276 3.5NA @60kMi
dual battery setup.....
Be happy you don't have ECO S/S - It is a perfect chassis stressor!
Ok, you don't have a large AUX battery in trunk .... then you likely have a smaller battery located inside the dashboard driver side.
It serves similar purpose to supply voltage when MAIN is defective.
Disconnect it temporarily as needed to power down chassis.
Let the power bleed out 5mn before opening doors or interacting with car to prevent ESL or ISM from engaging safe-mode.
Ok, you don't have a large AUX battery in trunk .... then you likely have a smaller battery located inside the dashboard driver side.
It serves similar purpose to supply voltage when MAIN is defective.
Disconnect it temporarily as needed to power down chassis.
Let the power bleed out 5mn before opening doors or interacting with car to prevent ESL or ISM from engaging safe-mode.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 02-26-2024 at 01:05 PM.
#67
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Thread Starter
Battery died
Battery totally died after all. In panic mode since I had to get to work on time that morning I had AAA replace it.