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PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by JettaRed
I thought you were just being a Gray Man.
I used to be an intelligence officer (and apparently not a very good one).
Haha : ) no no
I see, ah no don't say that! I am sure you were better than others you worked with, you have a kind heart and dedicated in helping people which I can see through your contribution on the forums.
OP, I am sorry you have to deal with all this. We all would want to try to help if possible.
Sounds like you already spent quite a bit of money on this vehicle. We need to know more about the history of the vehicle, was it purchased since new or you got it used? How was the maintenance history, like a carfax or dealership printout of the vehicle's services (vehicle master inquiry, VMI). This is other than the fact that you put regular gasoline on the vehicle. How is your driving style? That also plays a role, is it commonly short commutes (so engine potentially never reaches operating temperature?). What about the annual mileage you drive the vehicle? What is the brand and oil weight the mechanic used for the oil changes over the years, etc.
Your vehicle has an M272 engine if I am not mistaken (pre-facelift W204 C 300), it is not a bad engine if I recalled correctly. I forgot how much is shared in common with the M276 which is the most reliable one, I went ahead and did a quick google search and came across this thread: https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...2-vs-m276.html
I am not sure how accurate is the information on the thread so further research is needed.
So, for that reason, we need more information before we can recommend if you should keep the vehicle or not, please send us the pictures of the glitter your mechanic showed you as well.
If you want to stick with mb, find a vehicle with a m276 engine, which there are plenty, it comes in 3.5L naturally aspirated and 3.0 turbo charged versions.
I will not recommend CLS especially with the V8 if you are worried about running cost and maintenance cost. The CLS is also closer to an S-Class but it is really the sportier version of the E-Class. The higher tier MB commences higher prices in maintenance and running cost as a result.
The W212 is a solid E-Class platform, yes you pay E-Class tax in a way when it comes to maintenance but it is pretty close to a W204 C-Class. The W212 is generally reliable and it is built very well.
If you really want a SUV, you have the option of getting ML or even GLK (if I recalled correctly, the GLK is reliable too).
Although the M276 is one of the most reliable engines in MB's lineup, it isn't free from issues. Make sure the vehicle you are looking at doesn't have the dreaded startup rattle caused by failing camshaft adjusters. That is one of the major ones but otherwise the engine is very solid. Although uncommon but make sure there is no oil in the wiring harness that might fry the ECU, the prevention is to install pigtails.
Just that if you do end up replacing the vehicle, it is always recommended to get a qualified mechanic to do a thorough inspection, maintenance history is very important.
no problem mentioning other brands at all : ), it is good to have competition after all and honestly the most important is to get what you want with the money you want to pay, that is what matters, it doesn't have to be an mb but if you want an mb that is fine too.
I guess you don't like bmw since you didn't mention it, purely from engine wise, the B58 six cylinder has been one of the more reliable engines in BMWs.
This is really good stuff my bud, thank you for the recommendations.
Didn't realize the E350 was such great option - specifically year 2012+ with that m276 engine. And the prices seem really good too. Not really against bimmers. I owned a 335 xi, 6 speed manual for a while and really enjoyed it but not really feeling like going back to them again.
Regarding your other questions about the C300 - I'm the 2nd owner, purchased it from a dealership in 2013 w 55k miles and previous maintenance was done accordingly as far as I remember. Unfortunately I can't find the original Carfax - I think I lost some of the original documentation when I moved to another condo.
My driving style: basically very few miles - 6k per year, mostly short commutes 2-3 times a week, always under the speed limit and never pushing the revs. Car has always been kept under a roof inside a building garage, oil changes every 5-6k miles. Only major work done in the past 11 yrs have been: new steering lock, new suspension, engine mounts, vacuum pump and PCV valve replacement.
I wouldn't mind keeping this car if I know this current situation is fixable at a decent price and the car looks good for another 50k miles. I'm taking it this week to a couple of the authorized Mercedes shops I found on Benzshops.com so I can hopefully get a very real diagnostic.
@Jval your Option C is all over the place, from SUV to sedan to sports car. What are you going for?
I have a 2004 Mk1 Audi TT 225 with 250k miles. (Well, actually, it's my son's now, but I still think of her as mine.) Major replacements have been the clutch (a couple of times), rear differential, shocks, and front control arms. For 20 years old, that ain't bad. If you can get a good one, they are awesome cars. I've used mine in the snow to pull some kids out of a ditch when they went off the road with their WRX. While more practical than most sports cars, they are not the sedan you currently have. Two adults is it!
I'd probably stay away from the Boxter if you are worried about service/maintenance and repair costs.
Lexus? Meh! Good cars, but not for me.
Haha, totally all over the place. I think the SUV idea was a combination of a slight panic mode with a voice of judgement trying to convince me to settle down and think about family. But not really feeling it tbh so gonna leave that option out until wifey comes into the picture. At that time, I think Macan will probably be the choice with Lexus NX as a plan B with new wheels and maybe a body kit.
So, as for my daily driver, if I sell the w204,I really would like to have something a bit more fun and sporty. I had a Cayman once but for a very peculiar situation I sold it about a month later because a great opportunity came up. So I kinda want it back because I never really had it. But the prices for a 2009+ are similar to a 10 yr newer Macan...
Maybe the E350 coupe could work now that I know that the w212 chassis / m276 engine is a solid option. But I'm also very curious about the TT knowing that yours has been so reliable. I've been hesitant about Audi's reliability but your post brings me lots of hope and joy. I actually really like the almost useless back seat. It does come in handy in those few occasions when a third wheel needs a short ride, to put any extra stuff like a coat, laptop, girl's purse, etc without opening trunk / frunk, and, most importantly, foldable back seats for bigger stuff.
Would you be so kind to recommend the years / models I shall consider and stay away from please?
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Jval
This is really good stuff my bud, thank you for the recommendations.
Didn't realize the E350 was such great option - specifically year 2012+ with that m276 engine. And the prices seem really good too. Not really against bimmers. I owned a 335 xi, 6 speed manual for a while and really enjoyed it but not really feeling like going back to them again.
Regarding your other questions about the C300 - I'm the 2nd owner, purchased it from a dealership in 2013 w 55k miles and previous maintenance was done accordingly as far as I remember. Unfortunately I can't find the original Carfax - I think I lost some of the original documentation when I moved to another condo.
My driving style: basically very few miles - 6k per year, mostly short commutes 2-3 times a week, always under the speed limit and never pushing the revs. Car has always been kept under a roof inside a building garage, oil changes every 5-6k miles. Only major work done in the past 11 yrs have been: new steering lock, new suspension, engine mounts, vacuum pump and PCV valve replacement.
I wouldn't mind keeping this car if I know this current situation is fixable at a decent price and the car looks good for another 50k miles. I'm taking it this week to a couple of the authorized Mercedes shops I found on Benzshops.com so I can hopefully get a very real diagnostic.
If not, a 2012 E350 might be a solid alternative
no worries : ) as long as what I provided ended up being helpful, glad to help!
Hmmm, you can always pay for another copy from carfax then it should have the previous history before you acquired the vehicle but keep in mind, not everything shows up on carfax that is why pre-purchase inspections were important.
I see, I wish you had the vehicle master inquiry (VMI) though when you bought the vehicle, it is a detailed break down of all the services performed at an MB dealership (assuming the previous owner did all the services at MB) otherwise, try to find a MB dealership willing to provide it for you or find a friend or someone that have access to XENTRY and print it off from the control module. I think it was under the VGS module I can't remember. VGS was part of the transmission module so that might not be it.
That is very light usage and a very calm and pretty common a to b driving style, my main concern is if the vehicle never reaches operating temperatures during the commute, carbon deposit build up especially at low rpm and not reaching operating temperature due to short commutes. Might recommend to have more frequent oil changes due to condensation but 5K miles is not too bad so I will stick with that routine, make sure to always do an oil change at least once a year because oil breaks down overtime.
Short commutes will also put some strain on the starter battery, not allowing it to be charged enough. Recommended to drive the vehicle on the highway for 30 minutes at least, avoid bumper to bumper traffic to get all fluids up to temperature and the battery charged once a week.
Good luck in sorting the current car out : ) hopefully there are no big issues : )
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Jval
Haha, totally all over the place. I think the SUV idea was a combination of a slight panic mode with a voice of judgement trying to convince me to settle down and think about family. But not really feeling it tbh so gonna leave that option out until wifey comes into the picture. At that time, I think Macan will probably be the choice with Lexus NX as a plan B with new wheels and maybe a body kit.
So, as for my daily driver, if I sell the w204,I really would like to have something a bit more fun and sporty. I had a Cayman once but for a very peculiar situation I sold it about a month later because a great opportunity came up. So I kinda want it back because I never really had it. But the prices for a 2009+ are similar to a 10 yr newer Macan...
Maybe the E350 coupe could work now that I know that the w212 chassis / m276 engine is a solid option. But I'm also very curious about the TT knowing that yours has been so reliable. I've been hesitant about Audi's reliability but your post brings me lots of hope and joy. I actually really like the almost useless back seat. It does come in handy in those few occasions when a third wheel needs a short ride, to put any extra stuff like a coat, laptop, girl's purse, etc without opening trunk / frunk, and, most importantly, foldable back seats for bigger stuff.
Would you be so kind to recommend the years / models I shall consider and stay away from please?
Hmmm, if you want a fun car, you might not like the E 350 coupe W212, not saying it isn't fun but it is meant to be, it is an executive sedan after all.
audi focuses on fun more but BMW touts the ultimate driving machine so is purely focusing on fun.
MB if you want fun, you got to go some sort of amg or buy one of their lighter cars so you can throw it in a corner. As MB's regular models main focus is comfort and luxury. Problem is amg is a high cost of ownership type of vehicle, especially talking about the 55 and 63. The 43 is pretty good (from experience) but I understand why you don't want a W205 as despite being a W205 owner, I am still going to say it is not built as solid as a W204 and especially not as solid as a W212.
The W204 is a pretty sporty C-Class as well compared to the more recent MB lineup.
I am not sure how much you like roadsters but maybe an SLC roadster might be your style if like to stick with MB or SLK but I am not sure about the reliability of those, I think the SLC based on the W205 platform if I recalled correctly.
I personally don't like the Macan after driving one but that is just me : )
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Jval
Would you be so kind to recommend the years / models I shall consider and stay away from please?
Generally, the 1.8T 5V (5 valves per cylinder) motor is very reliable. The TT225 (factory 225 hp) with the BEA engine designation has some beefed up internals. It comes from the factory with a K04 turbo (the other versions have a K03). Mine has been chipped (Revo) from when I bought it with about 20,000 miles on it in 2006, bumping the hp to around 260. Over the years, it has also had water injection, though I've removed that now. I live in the Mid-Atlantic region of the US east coast, so not bad winters normally. Mechanically, the car is in great shape, though 20 years exposed to the elements has done a little number on the clear coat. The headlight lenses were a little cloudy, but I used this Turtle Wax Lens restorer kit and was really amazed at the results that saved me hundreds of dollars (even thousands for new original headlights). To answer your question, I would stay with the MK1 from 2004-2006 (I don't know enough about the MK2 generation). Go with the quattro (all-wheel drive), but find out how well the Haldex rear diff has been maintained (oil change ever 20k miles and oil and filter every 40k miles). The earlier models did NOT have a rear spoiler and need to be updated with a spoiler. The rear spoiler on the TT is functional. Without one, there were road stability problems at speed--it is shaped like an air foil. It seems there are a lot of enthusiasts in the UK if you look for TT videos on YouTube. As always, get a PPI from a mechanic that knows these cars.
I think the idea that the vibration is from a problem with the torque converter makes sense, especially if there’s metal or copper contamination. Damaged torque converters can cause vibrations because they can’t smoothly transfer power from the engine to the transmission.
no worries : ) as long as what I provided ended up being helpful, glad to help!
Hmmm, you can always pay for another copy from carfax then it should have the previous history before you acquired the vehicle but keep in mind, not everything shows up on carfax that is why pre-purchase inspections were important.
I see, I wish you had the vehicle master inquiry (VMI) though when you bought the vehicle, it is a detailed break down of all the services performed at an MB dealership (assuming the previous owner did all the services at MB) otherwise, try to find a MB dealership willing to provide it for you or find a friend or someone that have access to XENTRY and print it off from the control module. I think it was under the VGS module I can't remember. VGS was part of the transmission module so that might not be it.
That is very light usage and a very calm and pretty common a to b driving style, my main concern is if the vehicle never reaches operating temperatures during the commute, carbon deposit build up especially at low rpm and not reaching operating temperature due to short commutes. Might recommend to have more frequent oil changes due to condensation but 5K miles is not too bad so I will stick with that routine, make sure to always do an oil change at least once a year because oil breaks down overtime.
Short commutes will also put some strain on the starter battery, not allowing it to be charged enough. Recommended to drive the vehicle on the highway for 30 minutes at least, avoid bumper to bumper traffic to get all fluids up to temperature and the battery charged once a week.
Good luck in sorting the current car out : ) hopefully there are no big issues : )
Appreciate your feedback bud.
So, by fun, I basically just mean something a bit more sporty looking and refreshed. Not really engine tune up and handling. Speeding tickets are costly, hah. So mostly looks becuase I've had my C300 Luxury for 11 yrs. That's why I want to spice up my 204 if I keep it or tempted to get the W212 in a coupe version or even the Sedan (as executive as it may be) with some AMG wheels and spoiler and maybe exhaust. Or try out something else in other brands as long as it is reliable.
Took the car today to a Benz authorized shop so prayers up that is no big issue. Asked him already too to see if he can get me the Carfax to check previous owner's maintenance.
Generally, the 1.8T 5V (5 valves per cylinder) motor is very reliable. The TT225 (factory 225 hp) with the BEA engine designation has some beefed up internals. It comes from the factory with a K04 turbo (the other versions have a K03). Mine has been chipped (Revo) from when I bought it with about 20,000 miles on it in 2006, bumping the hp to around 260. Over the years, it has also had water injection, though I've removed that now. I live in the Mid-Atlantic region of the US east coast, so not bad winters normally. Mechanically, the car is in great shape, though 20 years exposed to the elements has done a little number on the clear coat. The headlight lenses were a little cloudy, but I used this Turtle Wax Lens restorer kit and was really amazed at the results that saved me hundreds of dollars (even thousands for new original headlights). To answer your question, I would stay with the MK1 from 2004-2006 (I don't know enough about the MK2 generation). Go with the quattro (all-wheel drive), but find out how well the Haldex rear diff has been maintained (oil change ever 20k miles and oil and filter every 40k miles). The earlier models did NOT have a rear spoiler and need to be updated with a spoiler. The rear spoiler on the TT is functional. Without one, there were road stability problems at speed--it is shaped like an air foil. It seems there are a lot of enthusiasts in the UK if you look for TT videos on YouTube. As always, get a PPI from a mechanic that knows these cars.
Definitely a sweet and reliable car you got there man. Love your Mk1 but need to do more research about the Mk2 for sure. As my daily driver and as an "upgrade", I'm not getting some older than my 2009. I hope the newer model is as reliable as yours and with a little extra stuff convenient for daily driving too.
I think the idea that the vibration is from a problem with the torque converter makes sense, especially if there’s metal or copper contamination. Damaged torque converters can cause vibrations because they can’t smoothly transfer power from the engine to the transmission.
Thank you man. That gives me a bit of peace of mind that I can finally get rid of that thing and some hope that my car can probably still be a keeper for a few more years. Hopefully is that and just that. The car is at the Benz authorized shop as we speak so prayers up for good news soon.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Jval
Appreciate your feedback bud.
So, by fun, I basically just mean something a bit more sporty looking and refreshed. Not really engine tune up and handling. Speeding tickets are costly, hah. So mostly looks becuase I've had my C300 Luxury for 11 yrs. That's why I want to spice up my 204 if I keep it or tempted to get the W212 in a coupe version or even the Sedan (as executive as it may be) with some AMG wheels and spoiler and maybe exhaust. Or try out something else in other brands as long as it is reliable.
Took the car today to a Benz authorized shop so prayers up that is no big issue. Asked him already too to see if he can get me the Carfax to check previous owner's maintenance.
Haha : ) totally understand, fair fair!
Sounds like you are on the right track then : ) if you ever need to look for a vehicle.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
OP, I forgot to mention, for the W212 in case you ever need to look for a replacement vehicle (hopefully not), then don't get ones with air suspension as if it fails it can be pretty expensive to repair.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by W205C43PFL
I see, I wish you had the vehicle master inquiry (VMI) though when you bought the vehicle, it is a detailed break down of all the services performed at an MB dealership (assuming the previous owner did all the services at MB) otherwise, try to find a MB dealership willing to provide it for you or find a friend or someone that have access to XENTRY and print it off from the control module. I think it was under the VGS module I can't remember. VGS was part of the transmission module so that might not be it.
OP, I forgot to mention, for the W212 in case you ever need to look for a replacement vehicle (hopefully not), then don't get ones with air suspension as if it fails it can be pretty expensive to repair.
Totally man, thank you. Read that too somewhere else. Avoid Airmatic and even 4matic too. And V6 better than turbo, right? Also heard a timing chain issue was fixed in 2014
So, are both sedans and coupes W212 with m276 engines after year 2012?
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by Jval
Totally man, thank you. Read that too somewhere else. Avoid Airmatic and even 4matic too. And V6 better than turbo, right? Also heard a timing chain issue was fixed in 2014
So, are both sedans and coupes W212 with m276 engines after year 2012?
You're very welcome!
Yup that and make sure the camshaft adjuster issue is resolved.
Ya the regular naturally aspirated 3.5L V6 is solid so is the 3.0L V6, same engine just different displacement and with the additional of turbo. Turbo is another thing that can break (I am saying this despite me having the turbo version of this engine) but turbos can be very reliable still though.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Jval
Definitely a sweet and reliable car you got there man. Love your Mk1 but need to do more research about the Mk2 for sure. As my daily driver and as an "upgrade", I'm not getting some older than my 2009. I hope the newer model is as reliable as yours and with a little extra stuff convenient for daily driving too.
Be sure to research on the VW/Audi 2.0 liter turbo. The early ones had problems.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Pierregirard
I think the idea that the vibration is from a problem with the torque converter makes sense, especially if there’s metal or copper contamination. Damaged torque converters can cause vibrations because they can’t smoothly transfer power from the engine to the transmission.
That means the filter is failing. I just don't know how it was determined that there was metal particles in the TC if no fluid was drained. Also, metal floating around would cause more serious problems than what has been described. I would think some of the oil paths in the valve block and the valves themselves would be clogged, causing real shift problems.
PFL205.064 with M276.823 (Oil pump solenoid defeated)
Originally Posted by JettaRed
That means the filter is failing. I just don't know how it was determined that there was metal particles in the TC if no fluid was drained. Also, metal floating around would cause more serious problems than what has been described. I would think some of the oil paths in the valve block and the valves themselves would be clogged, causing real shift problems.
Definitely a mystery, OP's car doesn't have a transmission dipstick either I wouldn't think plus you can't really see much from the dipstick in terms of if there is metal.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
It's easy enough to drop the pan and remove the conductor plate and valve block. Also, drain the TC (if it has the drain plug). That could be done at the same time a tranny service is being performed. That would be my first step. (I happen to have a valve block and conductor plate from a 2004 7G tranny (red fluid). Not sure if there were modifications to the actual block or not when going to later models. In my case, the dealer replaced both the conductor plate and valve block when I was having problems. At the time, everything was less than $2000 out the door. That was about 5 years ago. Not sure what it would cost today, thanks to inflation.
That means the filter is failing. I just don't know how it was determined that there was metal particles in the TC if no fluid was drained. Also, metal floating around would cause more serious problems than what has been described. I would think some of the oil paths in the valve block and the valves themselves would be clogged, causing real shift problems.
Yeah, you're right. If the filter isn't catching these particles, it could mean there's an issue with the filter or there's just too much debris for it to handle, which is worrying.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by Pierregirard
Yeah, you're right. If the filter isn't catching these particles, it could mean there's an issue with the filter or there's just too much debris for it to handle, which is worrying.
The filter would clog and there would be insufficient pressure for the tranny to function, which may cause the stutter.
So grateful I found this community and also regretful for my neglect. Gonna correct this nonsense issue asap, not only for this car but any other in the future.
Regarding some things mentioned, my regular and trustworthy mechanic does the regular maintenance, oil changes every 5k miles (synthetic), etc and also other bigger things as replacing the whole suspension 1-2 yrs ago, and recently changed a pump because he noticed some oil leaking, engine mounts replacement (transmission mount was still good) and injectors' cleaning. He also knows I've been using the low octane gas but I changed that now. He is almost positive that the vibration issue is not engine. Thats' why he took the car to his transmission expert guy / shop. They inspected it (apparently did a job that would normally cost $400 in labor to reach the diagnose but didn't charged me since my mechanic told him we are good buds). The converter needs to be replaced and the tranny could go up to 140-150k miles before another major work / replacement. They have seen this situation happened before - this whole story of metal inside and vibration so he is positive this is the issue.
My car has been good to me throughout all these years despite my neglect. But the recent expenses plus the current vibration / transmission issue and now this new dashboard signal that probably requires gas pedal replacement is making me worry and think about my options:
Option A:
Is all this money gonna be a good investment to keep the car for the long-run or is it better to fix and sell because other possible bigger things can start happening? Or is it just part of the process of maintaining and old car and I should just get my act together, do everything by the book, take really good care of it, put some extras in it to freshen it up and hold it for up to 200k miles instead of letting it go for such low market value - I guess probably $7k?
Option B:
Sell it and put an extra $8-10k on a Merc upgrade. What do you guys think could be the best option under $20k with less than 70k miles that is reliable to keep long-term and low maintenance?
- W205? some people say it is less reliable than 204
- CLS? heard it is actually pretty reliable and the look is very nice and different from C300 .
- Any coupe?
- SUV if it fits the budget and doesn't look too much as a soccer mom car and if there is a body kit that make it look sporty and cool, hah
Option C:
I know we all love Mercedes here so please don't crucify me just yet if I ask you for any feedback for some other brands / alternatives that might be worth considering for the same price / mileage:
- Lexus NX 300 (plus body kit - soccer mom look... haha)
- Lexus IS
- Audi TT
- Audi Q5
- Porsche Cayman / Boxter (older than previous options)
- Other?
even if the torque converter was the original problem if it has been going on for a while 9/10 the transmission is now messed up are Mercedes are sensitive and have to be done right and to be honest I don't trust noone but Mercedes Benz to work on my car if it is not myself because a lot of mechanics out there think they know how to work on foreign vehicles and end up messing them up in the long run.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by charlesgreer64@
even if the torque converter was the original problem if it has been going on for a while 9/10 the transmission is now messed up are Mercedes are sensitive and have to be done right and to be honest I don't trust noone but Mercedes Benz to work on my car if it is not myself because a lot of mechanics out there think they know how to work on foreign vehicles and end up messing them up in the long run.
op do you also get rpm bounce at cruise and low rpm?
i get same thing with my 2011 c300 4matic
when light acceleration i get this vibration that goes away with harder accel and above 2000rpm
previous owners mechanic put in red fluid and car was almost undriveable when i got it
after draining and filling blue fluid few weeks ago it dreives alot better.
but alot of my clutch material came out with the old oil so my cluthes are probably on their last leg.
i also get that second gear hard shift when car is cold that goes away when warmed up
whats the best way to test for vacuum leaks on this car? and what should i check for leaks.?
what vacuum reading should i see during idle cold and warmed up?
05-19-2024, 07:24 PM
