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Hello all! Par the course anything I buy a car I'd like to keep for a long time, I join a forum! I am in the middle of purchasing a 2013 C300 Sport with just barely over 40,000 miles on it. It seems to have nearly every option available thst year. I have always wanted to own a luxury German car and this seems to be my time. The owner just barely bought it along with another luxury car and then his place of employment asked if he would move and he agreed but doesnt want to take all the cars. We've come to an agreement on the price of $10,000. He is actually taking a loss on it from what he owes but he has only 10 days left before he moves.
I plan to make this my summer car and use an older but well maintained Subaru Forester for a winter car.
From all my research, this seems to fornone of th most reliable years/models for Mercedes. I know this is introductions but I also have some general questions.
1. I've already looked it over and took it for a test drive. I didnt want to kick the tires too much since it seems like a great deal. Is there anything I should have looked harder at other than typical things you can see and feel driving it?
2. Honestly my days of doing massive amounts of work to cars are behind me. I can do things like change the oil and filters, spark plugs, disc brakes, etc etc etc. Will i be able to continue that in this? Keeping in mind I have no lift.
3. Is there any maintenance around these miles i shluld be looking at? I read the previous years a transmission service would be due but these ones can wait until 80k miles.
Hello all! Par the course anything I buy a car I'd like to keep for a long time, I join a forum! I am in the middle of purchasing a 2013 C300 Sport with just barely over 40,000 miles on it. It seems to have nearly every option available thst year. I have always wanted to own a luxury German car and this seems to be my time. The owner just barely bought it along with another luxury car and then his place of employment asked if he would move and he agreed but doesnt want to take all the cars. We've come to an agreement on the price of $10,000. He is actually taking a loss on it from what he owes but he has only 10 days left before he moves.
I plan to make this my summer car and use an older but well maintained Subaru Forester for a winter car.
From all my research, this seems to fornone of th most reliable years/models for Mercedes. I know this is introductions but I also have some general questions.
1. I've already looked it over and took it for a test drive. I didnt want to kick the tires too much since it seems like a great deal. Is there anything I should have looked harder at other than typical things you can see and feel driving it?
2. Honestly my days of doing massive amounts of work to cars are behind me. I can do things like change the oil and filters, spark plugs, disc brakes, etc etc etc. Will i be able to continue that in this? Keeping in mind I have no lift.
3. Is there any maintenance around these miles i shluld be looking at? I read the previous years a transmission service would be due but these ones can wait until 80k miles.
1. Get a pre-purchase inspection
2. If this vehicle has a dipstick, you can extract the engine oil, the filter is on the top as well if that is the case.
3. Many fluids, transmission, etc.
2013 with only 40,000 miles is great. I have a 2010 C300 4matic Sport with around 157,000 miles. Its been a New England vehicle. I have done quite alot of stuff so far and it will never stop with this car.
Is it a PZEV spec? If so that means the car has an extended 15yr/150,000 mile warranty on anything to do with emissions. Covers things like spark plugs, air intake, exhaust, purge valve, fuel filter etc. My exhaust manifold developed a leak and needed to replace it, its such a pain to do I ended up paying thousands for the MB dealer to replace it, the kicker is it was just over the 150,000 miles or else it would have been covered.
Based on the cars age I would closely inspect the rear axle carrier (subframe) for rust which is a known issue with MB's, fortunately MB will replace it for free. But they wont pay for rusted brake lines which is another known issue, i had to replace a severely rusted section last year and will be replacing another section once it gets warmer to work on the car.
For maintenance I do all the work myself minus the exhaust manifold. C300 is pretty easy to work on. There should be a Maintenance Manual in the glove box with the Operators Manual, just go thru that and make sure all the recommended service is complete based on age/mileage.
You should be fine for everything else because of the low mileage. Should just be normal Service A and Service B for awhile. From my experience once the car hits 100,000 miles then things start going like suspension, bushings, maybe even starter and alternator.
Do you have a Mercedes specific OBD scanner, its a good idea to check the computer for any fault codes.
2013 C 300 has the M276 engine if I recalled correctly then yes, get an oil extractor such as mityvac and then extract from the dipstick tube.
Oh wow a couple of you said this. I had no idea this was a thing. I avoid doing my own oil change on my Sentra because of rhe dang undercarriage plastic.
2013 with only 40,000 miles is great. I have a 2010 C300 4matic Sport with around 157,000 miles. Its been a New England vehicle. I have done quite alot of stuff so far and it will never stop with this car.
Is it a PZEV spec? If so that means the car has an extended 15yr/150,000 mile warranty on anything to do with emissions. Covers things like spark plugs, air intake, exhaust, purge valve, fuel filter etc. My exhaust manifold developed a leak and needed to replace it, its such a pain to do I ended up paying thousands for the MB dealer to replace it, the kicker is it was just over the 150,000 miles or else it would have been covered.
Oh wow a couple of you said this. I had no idea this was a thing. I avoid doing my own oil change on my Sentra because of rhe dang undercarriage plastic.
It is much easier plus that is the official way (extraction) for the M276.
I have replaced the oil both ways and it seems to take me the same amount of time. Draining it out the bottom gives me a chance to inspect everything under there. I made a set of wooden ramps to drive up so it goes fairly quick. The oil has to be pretty hot in order to extract it quickly.
To fill the oil I just dump it in the oil filter housing before putting the filter back in.
I have replaced the oil both ways and it seems to take me the same amount of time. Draining it out the bottom gives me a chance to inspect everything under there. I made a set of wooden ramps to drive up so it goes fairly quick. The oil has to be pretty hot in order to extract it quickly.
To fill the oil I just dump it in the oil filter housing before putting the filter back in.
So about the rear suframe. I was looking at another 204 for sale and they mentioned they had to subframe replaced by a Mercedes dealer. Is this an issue that eventually plagues every 204? I am sure there is a video of how to but I like to ask questions of people, how do you inspect this?
I talked to the garage he took it too, pretty reputable place. They did any maintenance on it and went over it when he bought the car. And just a few months ago they installed new mufflers on it. They have the originals too. The garage said they never saw anything wrong when performing the work they did.
Same question about the WSL issue. Is thst something thst just will eventuallt happen?
So about the rear suframe. I was looking at another 204 for sale and they mentioned they had to subframe replaced by a Mercedes dealer. Is this an issue that eventually plagues every 204? I am sure there is a video of how to but I like to ask questions of people, how do you inspect this?
I talked to the garage he took it too, pretty reputable place. They did any maintenance on it and went over it when he bought the car. And just a few months ago they installed new mufflers on it. They have the originals too. The garage said they never saw anything wrong when performing the work they did.
Same question about the WSL issue. Is thst something thst just will eventuallt happen?
If you are in the UK or USA, don't they have an extended warranty on the subframe as part of a lawsuit settlement?
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