C-Class (W204) 2008 - 2014: C180K, C200K, C230, C280, C300, C350, C200CDI, C220CDI, C320CDI

how hard is it to replace the shift solenoid seals and clean shift plate?

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Old Apr 17, 2025 | 11:32 AM
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2011 c300 4matic
how hard is it to replace the shift solenoid seals and clean shift plate?

just wanted to see what problems i can potentially run into while doing that
2011 c300 4matic updated transmission
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Old Apr 17, 2025 | 01:27 PM
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2014 c300 w204.080 3.5 v6
I dunno I've never done that job but inside the trans is always somewhat challenging but doable.
You can look on this website and see if you can find your answer.

https://charm.li/Mercedes%20Benz/
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Old Apr 17, 2025 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by raverx3m
just wanted to see what problems i can potentially run into while doing that
2011 c300 4matic updated transmission
Why do you want to do this?
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Old Apr 18, 2025 | 11:07 AM
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2011 c300 4matic
second gear shift delay
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Old Apr 18, 2025 | 02:00 PM
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2014 c300 w204.080 3.5 v6
Originally Posted by raverx3m
second gear shift delay
Have you tried the relearn process that's activated thru a good scanner or Xentry? It may fix your shifting issue as you usually cant feel these cars shift much. This is a picture of the adaption learn page from Xentry.
Attached Thumbnails how hard is it to replace the shift solenoid seals and clean shift plate?-weistec_xentry_7229_3.jpg  
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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 11:23 AM
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2011 c300 4matic
previous idiot owner put old fulud into this. and probably bunch of other additives.
car would shake when it was in gear in every gear
i replaced fluid then shaking slowly went away.
but as shaking went away the second gear shift delay became more and more pronounced. sometimes it happens in first and second gear also. very rarely the car would jut not go in gear until i let go the gas pedal only in low gears though
never happened when i smash off the light hard. only low throttle low gear.

i havent done second transmission flush yet.
but i did reset the tcm and everything else multiple times... nothing changed.

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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 11:57 AM
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S550 V8, CL600 V12, SLK32 AMG
if you have the 5 speed, its fairly easy but messy.
- Drain transmission fluid
- Take off pan
- Take off valve body. Be careful. Take out electrical plug first
- Do whatever you want to do with valves
- Install new conductor plate and plug holder. The transmission will leak into the plug and up the wires.
- Put everything back together

The other transmissions should be similar, but you cannot just get a new conductor plate, it has to be programmed to the car.

Last edited by waterzap99; Apr 21, 2025 at 12:38 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2025 | 08:55 PM
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He has the 7G tranny. He cannot purchase a new conductor plate from the dealer for self-install; the dealer will only sell it if they do the install.

We don't know what this problem is. It could be the conductor plate, or solenoids, or clogged fluid channels.
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Originally Posted by raverx3m
previous idiot owner put old fulud into this. and probably bunch of other additives.
car would shake when it was in gear in every gear
i replaced fluid then shaking slowly went away.
but as shaking went away the second gear shift delay became more and more pronounced. sometimes it happens in first and second gear also. very rarely the car would jut not go in gear until i let go the gas pedal only in low gears though
never happened when i smash off the light hard. only low throttle low gear.

i havent done second transmission flush yet.
but i did reset the tcm and everything else multiple times... nothing changed.
Wrong fluid is not fatal if it didn’t cause abrading of the clutch packs or TQ lock up. The problem may be clogged solenoid screens. Screen and o-ring kits are available. Don’t disassemble anything you don’t have to. Wrong fluid won’t harm the valve body. A tyro inside the transmission thinking he can make it better will. I suggest scanning the TCU/ECU for any codes if you haven’t already. If you must, you can rebuild this whole thing if you have patience of Job and nerves of steel. I don’t, but my old neighbor (RIP) did. And when working on the solenoids, maintain absolute cleanliness. Micro grit and cloth or shop towel fibers can and will hang up the valve body.
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Old May 4, 2025 | 10:10 AM
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Same thing but different

I just went through pulling the valve body off my GLK (w204), so same thing. Relatively easy, but messy. The oil pan removal is pretty straightforward, 6 bolts. The valve body is 10 bolts and the electrical fitting. Once the valve body is out, the solenoids are held in place in pairs, with a single bolt and spring-clamp. The solenoids can be safely cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner. With the solenoids out, you can coax most of fluid out of the valve body by flipping it end over end, side over side, corner over corner, until nothing else comes out. I recommend testing all solenoids by resistance, and for action with a 12v power supply. I also recommend replacing the solenoid o-rings while you’re in there.
valve body and transmission pan bolts are aluminum one-time use bolts
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