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Doing New Rear ABS Tone Ring - how to get axle back into the bearing...
Hello! I am replacing the ABS tone rings on my 2013 C300 4matic Sport. Taking it all apart was fine but now, I cannot get it all to go back together. Biggest issue is getting the axle back into the wheel carrier/bearing.
It seems to be lined up for I can get the axle in to where you just see the top of bolt beginning to peak through. But I cannot get it to seat in and when you look from behind the bearing, you can see that it still needs to move forward into the bearing about another 2-3 inches.
How do I get this back together. All the online videos don't show it going back together...they just say to repeat the steps in reverse. But it's not that easy...
Thanks for the help. This ABS issue has been a bear...
You should have removed the wheel bearing from the spindle carrier. Once you doing that putt the whole thing back together and ther bearing will be there last part you put on before assembling the brakes.
Clean the bearing splines and lube then with anti seize or something like grease. Be 100% sure the axle is all the way into the differential then install the wheel bearing. Use the larger butt to pull it all the way into the bearing or tap slightly with a hammer to get it all the way in. Putt it all back together and the tire on. Then let three car until the wheel just touched three ground or have someone step on the brake firmly and torque the larger axle nut and you're finished.
Airways torque three large nut. No impact or you can damage the bearing.
Last edited by RobertR728; Nov 22, 2025 at 05:32 PM.
I dont think its possible to install the axle without the bearing already installed. I dont think there will be room to bolt it back on in the back?
I would grease the splines, make sure the shaft and the hub splines are lined up then tap on the wheel carrier to force it onto the axle. Rubber mallet 1st, then if that isnt working wood block and hammer.
The manual seems to mention drilling a new hole for a bolt so you can pull the axle back thru the hub. See info below.
I havent worked on the rear axles so dont have personal experience. I have done the front cv axles and those fit thru the hubs very easy, I could pull them off and on by hand.
Attached are two quick snaps. Sorry for the mediocre quality.
The first shows the axle (red line), and points I disconnected (blue arrows). The other photo is just looking straight down and you can see my new tone ring. As you can see, the carrier and bearing are still on.
First thing is I zoomed in on the new ring and to me it doesnt seem pressed on all the way, looks a little crooked. Seems to be a gap when i compare it to other photos of used axles I found on ebay. Not sure if this may effect the sensor when installed.
To get the axle in the flange I would first apply a little grease in the splines of the flange to make the axle splines fit easier.
I wouldnt be concerned with the inner part of the axle so much. The part with the splines you are trying to get in the flange articulates at the outer joint of the axle. I had to do this with my front axles, I lifted the axle shaft up, then articulate the outer joint so the splines of the shaft were tilted downwards to line up with the splines in the hub. I marked a phot I have of the front axle i did.
To match up the splines you may have to rotate the flange as you are pulling the axle on.
Red line is where the splines were facing, green line is where it needed to be to fit in the flange.
Thanks all! Very helpful. A friend of mine came by this morning (Toyo tech), and he helped me get the axle through. I put the outer nut back on but not torque tight. The trick now is getting the three control arms lined up to their seats on the carrier/brake system. Holy cow....I can move the carrier around with a crowbar and was able to get the lower forward arm back on nicely (the bolt threaded in very nice so that was nice...fear of cross-thread). But the other two are TOUGH! I can move the carrier enough to get the knuckles close but lose it when I go for a bolt. Almost seems insane how much torque is involved to move this carrier around. Just hope I'm on the right path and cry a little knowing I still have the other side to do).
I used a scissor jack that helped lining things back up for the front axle. Used it to raise the wheel carrier so I only had to worry about pushing the top in while lining up the holes of the strut.
Have you confirmed the wheel speed sensor is working at this point? Since the axle is in I would connect the sensor and spin the wheel seeing if its working. Will need both rear wheels off the ground to spin.
I used a scissor jack that helped lining things back up for the front axle. Used it to raise the wheel carrier so I only had to worry about pushing the top in while lining up the holes of the strut.
Have you confirmed the wheel speed sensor is working at this point? Since the axle is in I would connect the sensor and spin the wheel seeing if its working. Will need both rear wheels off the ground to spin.
I did the same with a little hydra floor jack I had. It does help with the up/down angle and does also begin toeing in as I jack it higher but not much. The crowbar I am using is moving the carrier side to side-ish,,,the bar is braced against the shock or sometimes spring. This job is toughest yet and I've done a few. A lift would be nice...IDK...I guess i just need to keep at it but looking for the secret move. :-)
When I did mine on my 14 c300 I was able to pry the axle end off the axle out of the carrier once I had the wheel bearing out. I didn't take any control arms off at all.
So to close this one off, my guy came back today and knocked the job out in 3 hours. great work and the car runs as it should. no abs lights, no lose of traction, and no errors. Great to have my C back after 7 weeks of no go.
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