Post your C450 with Aftermarket Wheels
05-30-2016, 02:33 PM
#201
Within the wheel wells.
Your car, so if you like it that's all that matters. I'm just after the flush look. So as aggressive as possible but within the body of the car.
FYI, I gained about 5mm of extra clearance after the h&r springs.
Your car, so if you like it that's all that matters. I'm just after the flush look. So as aggressive as possible but within the body of the car.
FYI, I gained about 5mm of extra clearance after the h&r springs.
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Star4life (07-24-2017)
05-31-2016, 08:22 AM
#203
If you lowered the car they might actually camber tuck in and look decent, but as it stands it looks god awful.
This does not fit, regardless on your standard or style preference. This is coming from someone who can get behind bagged cars with stretched tires, etc.
This is laughably bad. A cheap and uneducated attempt at fitment.
05-31-2016, 09:56 AM
#204
Super Member
I gave up on wheels for the C450. After seeing all aftermarket options and the aftermarket photos here, I have come to conclude that the stock wheels look best no matter what you guys do to it. ::drops mic::
05-31-2016, 11:29 AM
#207
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2016 Mercedes C450 AMG
Then why are you here on the aftermarket wheels post trying to bash everyone.. Create a new thread called how good my c450 looks with factory wheels and you guys can have all the fun you want... This thread is not the right one for you. That's why I still own a Grancoupe all my buddies on the BIMMER forums are not afraid to get a proper stance without affecting performance.. Stick with your factory car how u love it and be merry.
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05-31-2016, 11:51 AM
#208
Then why are you here on the aftermarket wheels post trying to bash everyone.. Create a new thread called how good my c450 looks with factory wheels and you guys can have all the fun you want... This thread is not the right one for you. That's why I still own a Grancoupe all my buddies on the BIMMER forums are not afraid to get a proper stance without affecting performance.. Stick with your factory car how u love it and be merry.
Think you're missing the point. But, hey if you want to defend some **** *** set up, go for it (not referring to yours).
You are generalizing. I have defended your set-up. Don't be a tool.
When I defended you: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-wheels-6.html
A set-up I would like more than stock if it weren't for the machined look:
Last edited by alexasa; 05-31-2016 at 12:04 PM.
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NYCSoiL (06-01-2016)
05-31-2016, 12:26 PM
#210
MBWorld Fanatic!
^That does look really good.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
05-31-2016, 12:32 PM
#211
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^That does look really good.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
Many agreeable points here.
I think some are losing sight that there are hundreds of aftermarket wheel options that work for this car without the need of spacers. Completely custom forged offerings from the likes of HRE, Adv.1, and Rotiform to name a few, are readily available. It just comes down to C450 owners willing to dish out the cash for it.
I think some are losing sight that there are hundreds of aftermarket wheel options that work for this car without the need of spacers. Completely custom forged offerings from the likes of HRE, Adv.1, and Rotiform to name a few, are readily available. It just comes down to C450 owners willing to dish out the cash for it.
05-31-2016, 12:53 PM
#212
^That does look really good.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
Not that I don't agree with you, also adding stress to the suspension components with spacers etc. But typically aftermarket wheels weigh less than oem. So we remove a bit of weight in the process which usually allows the suspension to react a little quicker.
Weird, now it's not censored. Must be my phone
05-31-2016, 12:59 PM
#213
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Calgary, AB
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2016 Mercedes C450 AMG
^That does look really good.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
I once asked my kid brother, who's a mechanic, what the harm might be in lowering offset with spacers, or in using a wheel with lower offsets than OEM. (I've done both BTW). He said to get two bowling *****, one in each hand and hold them with your arms extended straight down and resting at your side.
That, he said, is the front suspension geometry with factory offsets.
Now with your arms held straight, raise the bowling ***** up and outward away from your side and hold them in that position. That's the effect on the suspension of lowering the offsets.
When I asked him if that was "bad", he said it depends on how strong my arms were. In other words, the suspension may or may not be able to compensate for the way the load changes.
He asked me why I wanted to change offsets in the first place and I said it was because I wanted my car to look cooler. He said it sounded stupid that he spent all day fixing cars that had broken down for people who needed reliable transportation to work and I was contemplating spending a couple grand to f up my brand new Mercedes because it didn't more closely resemble a race car. (My brother is kind of crotchety. His wife never puts out.)
But I did it anyway, and to an extent he was right. Eventually vibrations crept in up front and despite changing tires, rebalancing and all the other stuff you try when you don't want to give up the cool look, I went back to OEM offsets (same wheels, same tires, no spacers) and everything smoothed right out again.
From an engineering perspective, the "proper" stance retains the factory geometry. I try to stay at the OEM offsets up front, but the rear is less sensitive and I've gone very aggressive 20mm spacers back there with no problems.
The guy who suggested the OEM wheels are the best choice has a point in that when you're considering aftermarket options, don't forget to consider that your favorite wheel might be the ones already on the car.
Here's my last comment on wheels, and drops as well for that matter, and I'm not referring to any of the cars in this thread specifically. It's one thing to look at a beautiful picture of a dropped car with flush Plus One or Plus Two wheels and fall in love, but you can't drive a photograph. If you could drive them, you might discover that sometimes the price of beauty is steep in terms of ride degradation. Of course, you may decide the trade off is worth it, or you may feel there's no trade off at all.
I've done drops, Plus Ones, Plus Twos, lower offsets/big spacers, and there was always a trade off as far as I could tell.
05-31-2016, 01:19 PM
#214
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yeah, I get that to an extent. Definitely true with audio. But it's not like lower offset wheels would cost Mercedes more, and they know that a flush fitment is a more attractive aesthetic. Same with ride height. Shorter springs aren't any more expensive.
Which is why every one-off non functional show car any manufacturer ever builds has enormous wheels filling the wells, rubber band sidewalls and is slammed. The design guys get full reign.
I don't think a low, aggressive ride height and low offset wheels get nixed by the accounting department. I think they get killed by the engineering department, especially on a mass produced, bread and butter car like the C, which has to suit a broad swath of drivers.
Which I guess goes to your point that in some cases like the C, if you want the cool stuff you have to go aftermarket. On a car like the GTS for example, Mercedes knows that car serves a very narrow sliver of the market and they can go ***** out on the aggressive stuff.
Which is why every one-off non functional show car any manufacturer ever builds has enormous wheels filling the wells, rubber band sidewalls and is slammed. The design guys get full reign.
I don't think a low, aggressive ride height and low offset wheels get nixed by the accounting department. I think they get killed by the engineering department, especially on a mass produced, bread and butter car like the C, which has to suit a broad swath of drivers.
Which I guess goes to your point that in some cases like the C, if you want the cool stuff you have to go aftermarket. On a car like the GTS for example, Mercedes knows that car serves a very narrow sliver of the market and they can go ***** out on the aggressive stuff.
05-31-2016, 09:54 PM
#215
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Current :2018 E63S and a 2017 GLE 63S . Prior, CLA 250, C450 AMG, 2017 AMG C63S
Looks good, worthwhile investment.
Wheels are the biggest change to the look of a car, and it can also be the most expensive modification, so it is easy to appreciate when someone has spent the money to do the right set up. Everyone knows that a cast wheel from China retails for about $300-400 each depending on brand and finish, and most may or may not know that doing a Forged wheel whether 1pc or multi pc will cost depending on size, brand, and finish minimum $900-1500ea. but hey, people could have bought a Camry instead of starting with a Mercedes and driven the same miles, but I think most will prefer the Mercedes! So enjoy!
Jim
Wheels are the biggest change to the look of a car, and it can also be the most expensive modification, so it is easy to appreciate when someone has spent the money to do the right set up. Everyone knows that a cast wheel from China retails for about $300-400 each depending on brand and finish, and most may or may not know that doing a Forged wheel whether 1pc or multi pc will cost depending on size, brand, and finish minimum $900-1500ea. but hey, people could have bought a Camry instead of starting with a Mercedes and driven the same miles, but I think most will prefer the Mercedes! So enjoy!
Jim
Avant Garde M368, Dolphin Grey with Milled Spoke Pockets
Front, 19x8.5, ET20, 5x114.3
Rear 19x9.5, ET40, 5x114.3
05-31-2016, 11:54 PM
#219
Former Vendor of MBWorld
ET20 is not going to work. I think some here have settled on running a 8.5 with a ET30, maybe 35? Which probably gives the clearance for the brakes and suspension needed, but is pushing pretty far out the fender...running with the smaller tire probably allows the tire stretch and round the shoulders to compress within the fender under load and going in driveways at an angle, but this might be just a little too aggressive for some.
I still think the 450 would be best fit with a 19x8.0 ET32 with a 19x9.0 with a ET37 rear with the factory 225/255 combo. Just my 02!
This may not be big enough for some, but then all your really doing is taking away the 1/2 inch from the inside that no sees or cares about what's on the inside, so not really sure how to please your request, but I think a Mercedes-Benz is not a car you play with like you would a VW or a Honda, I think the wheels on a Mercedes should be an investment, not a purchase...you're spending top dollar on the car, why all of a sudden shop for cheap inexpensive wheels...which make the biggest change on the appearance of the car? Think of it as wearing a nice Hugo Boss suit and then with the jacket open you are wearing an Armani Xchange T-shirt
Just My 02
06-01-2016, 06:33 AM
#220
Long shot but can anyone help me?
I have 2015 300c will these wheels fit?
Will these wheels fit my car without any problems?
( not comming out of fenders)
Model Name: 195112MERM143MB / 195112MERM143MBR
Wheel Size: F 19x8.5 R 19x9.5
Wheel Fitment: This set up is for 2008 and newer C Class 2009 and newer CLK and 2011 and Newer E Class and More!
Tire Size:
Please See Other Add!
Center Caps: Wheels Pictured with OEM Factory Caps!
Finish: Matte Black Machined Stripe
Bolt Pattern: 5x112
Offset:: F +45 R +45
I have 2015 300c will these wheels fit?
Will these wheels fit my car without any problems?
( not comming out of fenders)
Model Name: 195112MERM143MB / 195112MERM143MBR
Wheel Size: F 19x8.5 R 19x9.5
Wheel Fitment: This set up is for 2008 and newer C Class 2009 and newer CLK and 2011 and Newer E Class and More!
Tire Size:
Please See Other Add!
Center Caps: Wheels Pictured with OEM Factory Caps!
Finish: Matte Black Machined Stripe
Bolt Pattern: 5x112
Offset:: F +45 R +45
Last edited by futbol90x@gmail; 06-01-2016 at 06:35 AM.
06-01-2016, 08:09 AM
#221
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2018 GT R; Tesla M3P
Place to check offsets and fitment
I didn't like OEM set up because i didn't feel the car steady. It felt wobbly. With +1 size it feels steady. Exactly what i was looking for. As far as for the suspension, i don't mind if it will last 30k miles instead of 60k. I will return it at the end of the lease with maximum 20k miles on it. And i agree that lowering springs are bad. Coilovers are way to go if you want to be lower..
I didn't like OEM set up because i didn't feel the car steady. It felt wobbly. With +1 size it feels steady. Exactly what i was looking for. As far as for the suspension, i don't mind if it will last 30k miles instead of 60k. I will return it at the end of the lease with maximum 20k miles on it. And i agree that lowering springs are bad. Coilovers are way to go if you want to be lower..
06-01-2016, 05:49 PM
#222
Senior Member
06-01-2016, 10:55 PM
#223
Junior Member
This looks horrid. This is what they call mexi-flush. On a MB.
If you lowered the car they might actually camber tuck in and look decent, but as it stands it looks god awful.
This does not fit, regardless on your standard or style preference. This is coming from someone who can get behind bagged cars with stretched tires, etc.
This is laughably bad. A cheap and uneducated attempt at fitment.
If you lowered the car they might actually camber tuck in and look decent, but as it stands it looks god awful.
This does not fit, regardless on your standard or style preference. This is coming from someone who can get behind bagged cars with stretched tires, etc.
This is laughably bad. A cheap and uneducated attempt at fitment.
You sound like a uneducated tool. If you could read you would read that I stated it was getting lowered to complete the stance and look. Everyone on this thread hating needs to get a life. Everyone has a prefrence. I like aggressive stances. Plain and simple you can like yours stock and Boring and my opinion.
06-01-2016, 11:19 PM
#225
MBWorld Fanatic!
Don't misunderstand. We all like the look of flush offsets and an aggressive stance. You just went past flush and the consensus is it looks bad. On the rears especially. At the end of the day it's your car, so if you like it, our opinions don't really matter.
