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Yeah you should be able to find just one. The guy I bought my pair from sold them individually.
I probably should have waited for that whole Brexit thing to play out
So you're hoping to get the low/mid bass handled by the footwell sub? I think in theory with the DSP it's possible. You'd basically treat the system like a sub/sat set up, since the lows are non directional. I think despite having one sub, if it's in the Frontbass resonating chamber, it should still fill the cabin.
Last edited by Mike5215; Jun 29, 2016 at 04:23 PM.
Yes, that's the idea. The Frontbass should be a 15l chamber as far as I remember. That should be plenty for a higher quality 8" speaker. As you say, there'll be a lot of DSP work to make it sound right, but I have the time
I'm making changes all the time trying to find the sweet spot...
As for the woofers, have you installed your pair? Will you be doing it yourself? I'm not sure how to get to it. What needs to be removed to get the carpet out of the way?
I have one spare 8" shallow mount sub from my previous 221 you can have for whatever it costs to ship to Norway
99% sure it's the same piece in the Burmester. I actually left them in place in my 221 (they were in the front doors). They're really stout and they pound like hell.
Definitely bury the mids entirely and bring in just enough treble so the sound isn't dull and lifeless. Treble -7, Mid -10, Bass +10 or something along those lines.
If you use an IPhone for playback of Apple Music or local ITunes files, go to Settings>Music>EQ and select the Bass Boost preset. This both increases bass and decreases treble and mids.
Well I finally did it. I made a setup that I'm happy with. (when I say I made it, I mean the Real Time Analysis software did it )
Here's my setup using the stock woofer and rear speakers and front Focal 100KRS's (with HU eq at T,M,B=0,0,10):
There's no earth shattering bass but the kick is pretty good. Front
That's how it's done fellas! So how long do you think you'll hold out for a sub
My Focal 8" replacement subs came in yesterday. I just set one up free air on my workbench and I think it's probably what we've both been looking for. Should save you having to run cable to the trunk. I'll let you know how my install goes.
When you get a chance do a brief write up and I'll create a companion blog to my site.
If you can send me the Match config file I can add it to the blog so other owners who may not be as handy with RTA can just download it.
I'll definitely have to get a sub. The RTA helps a lot, but there's nothing under 60Hz to work with, too messy...
I updated the pics in the post above. There's a bit of a distortion when using the bass in the EQ of the HU (100 to 120Hz). So I set everything to 0,0,0 and made a new setup. It's better now.
Sure, I can make a write up for the blog
It's a joke. The speaker grilles are probably the most expensive parts. Don't blame Burmester though. None of their equipment is in the car. They're a German niche builder known for extremely high end home audio gear. How MB conned them into putting their name on this turd is beyond me, although I'm guessing a very large check was involved.
It's a joke. The speaker grilles are probably the most expensive parts.
Lol! I just remember the salesman telling me "this is the stuff they put into bentleys" and I'm thinking to myself... no freaking way might be the same name but definitely not the same system. What do you have in yours Mike?
I started with the Burmester, replaced the front door components with Focal, bypassed the factory amp with an Audison Prima DSP, and added a JL sub and amp.
The good news is I think MB uses the same speakers in both the base and Burmester. The base just gets less of them.
I started with the Burmester, replaced the front door components with Focal, bypassed the factory amp with an Audison Prima DSP, and added a JL sub and amp.
The good news is I think MB uses the same speakers in both the base and Burmester. The base just gets less of them.
Can u share the parts of Focal, Audison and JL plus amp ?
Yikes. I guess any sub would work. I wanted the dual 8" since they're easier to tune than a single 10 or 12, and I wanted them to play up a bit to meet the factory "subs" in the footwells. I'm happy with my system, although now that I'be had a chance to see the cheap little 6" woofers they used for "Frontbass" I know I can do better. I ordered a salvage W205 left front footwell sub module on EBay so I can play around with sizing a nice woofer in there.
I think the A20 can get really good cheaply enough to make the Burmester guys feel like the true victims. Especially since they have the same speakers. I need to dig into that Frontbass module. I have an outstanding 4 ohm 6 1/2" woofer by Goldwood (you've never heard of them) I want to see if I can get in there. They're $40 each and they hit like crazy.
If those won't fit I have a bunch of other options. I should have the module mid-week.
A20 guys would just need to grab a driver's side module off eBay to get dual Frontbass going. While I was looking for the module, there were a lot of vendors selling those nice Burmester grilles for cheap.
I started with the Burmester, replaced the front door components with Focal, bypassed the factory amp with an Audison Prima DSP, and added a JL sub and amp.
The good news is I think MB uses the same speakers in both the base and Burmester. The base just gets less of them.
That's one hell of a system you have there Mike good choice!
Thanks. I already had most of it from my previous S Class. It's not an earth shattering system on paper but anything I play on it sounds great. Kind of how I expected the Burmester to sound when I bought the car.
The MTX are coaxial, so the tweeter is already mounted to the woofer and it's a single assembly. Just mount it, connect + and - , done! I really think from a cost standpoint, a power standpoint and a quality standpoint, the coaxials make way more sense than high end separates.
If the cabin was starved for midrange and you needed something really powerful and bright, the Focals are great. But in the A20 where literally every speaker but the "sub" is a shrill, 4" midrange, the goal is to fill the midbass space between the sub and the mids, kill the shrillness and find a way to introduce the ultra highs.
The MTX woofers are a good bit warmer and fuller, and play lower than OEM, and the built-in tweets solve the other problem of getting the ultra highs in.
If you heard the Focals on the factory amp after spending $400 you'd shoot yourself. Trust me. In this application the MTX will sound better than the Focals.
The last bit is to get the low bass out of the 8" Frontbass using the Equalizer in A20 so it's primarily reinforcing midbass and shift the sub frequencies to an outboard trunk sub and amp. The controls on the amp will let you dial back in the lows and get the "hit" without adding boominess.
One last thought: If you don't want to mess with the MTX but still want front tweets...
Buy a pair of generic 1" silk dome tweets, pop the mirror sail panels off, pop them in the unused tweeter pockets and run a short speaker wire from them to the OEM 4".
I am struggling to find used tweeters on eBay (might be my search queries). Now that you know the speakers are only 2-ohms will the suggested pioneer silk tweets still be acceptable?
I did find new OEM tweeters for W205 on eBay, but they are being sold from Latvia for $70 a piece, would that be best as then you know they are 2-ohms?
I am starting my build slow and it appears that adding tweets to the mirror panels is the cheapest way to get a little better sound, not sure wife will be happy if I go spend 650-800 dollars on the DSP being discussed.
Are there any DSP W/ Amps designed for 2-ohm speakers, so I don't have to replace all the speakers?
Don't worry about the impedance on the tweets, or on the existing speakers at all with respect to adding an amp. An amp rated for 4 ohms will simply produce double the wattage into 2 ohms, and run a little hotter. Most modern amps are 1 ohm stable.
Don't worry about the impedance on the tweets, or on the existing speakers at all with respect to adding an amp. An amp rated for 4 ohms will simply produce double the wattage into 2 ohms, and run a little hotter. Most modern amps are 1 ohm stable.
For the tweets, any 1" silk dome will do it.
Cool thanks. I figure my upgrade path is tweets then DSP W/amp. Although in a different thread someone bought a 6.5" 3-way system and successfully installed the woofers into the footwells (of course he has a C200, so not sure if that is different from the USA C300), so maybe going with a 3-way system and an Amp would be a better approach.
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