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C300 4Matic, BMW Z4, BMW 428i xDrive, Lamborghini Gallardo
Hardwire Radar Detector
Hello All,
I am new to this forum.
I searched through the forums on hard wiring a radar detector (first thing I usually do to any new car I get). Didn't really find any good details or step by step instructions, so I figured I would contribute.
I am sure this is applicable to other series MB cars, but these instructions are for 2016 C Class (W205). I used the fuse box by the drivers side front.
What you will need: Some basic tools (see Image 1 below)
Difficulty level: 3 (on a scale of 1 to 10)
Time: Approximately 20 minutes
Radar Detector of your choice (I am using Escort 9500iX).
Image 1
Start by opening the drivers side fuse box using a plastic pry tool. Start in the middle and slowly work your way around.
Image 2
You will see the fuses as shown below.
Image 3
I used the direct wire Smart cord purchased directly from Escort
Image 4
Pass the wires of this cord through the opening behind steering wheel. I like having the warning indicators and mute button within easy reach.
Image 5
The trim piece easily pulls out
Image 6
Image 7
Use a wire puller or hanger
Image 8
Tie wires to the end of wire puller or hanger
Image 9
If you remove the bottom trim piece under the steering this will make pulling the wires a bit easier.
Image 10
You will need T20 Torx screw remove the trim pieces
Image 11
I used Fuse 216 – this will turn the detector on and off when you turn the car on and off(see image below)
Image 12
Pull the fuse out using either a Fuse puller or set of needle nose pliers.
Image 13
Strip the end of the wire and wrap it around the fuse as shown.
Image 14
Reinsert the fuse as shown below
Image 15
To the left of the fuse box (where the door hinges), you will see a bolt. This is a perfect place to use for ground. You will need 13mm socket to loosen the bolt. Slide the ground wire behind the nut as shown and re-tighten the bolt.
Image 16
Image 17
That takes care of the hard part.
Now you need to run the wire for the radar detector. I mounted mine just to the left of the rear view mirror, behind driver’s side sun visor.
Image 18
I was able to run the wire along the trip on the left edge and up the A-pillar.
Image 19
Image 20
Use the plastic edge trim piece to slide the wire under the trim so it is not visible.
Image 21
Bundle up excess wires and hide under the trim piece.
Image 22
Replace all the trim. You are all set.
Hope this is helpfull. If you have any questions or need additonal information, let me know.
Nice! You can also tap 12v switched power from the rear view mirror housing if you don't need to wire in a Smart Cord and want a shorter cable run.
Mike, where did you pull power from for this method?. I haven't seen this attempted? I used the Homelink in prior cars... Can you give us a quick write-up on this, as I definitely want a shorter run....
I just got a Passport Max 2 after being out of the radar detector market for 7-8 years. What is the point of the SmartCord in a setup like this where the actual detector is easily within reach being mounted to the left of the rear view mirror? It looks like the info the SmartCord provides and the ability to mute on it just duplicate info and ability to mute that you already have on the detector. I would get if the detector was mounted in a location that wasn't easy to reach and mute so the SmartCord mounted closer would be helpful. But in this situation, what's the point of the SmartCord?
C300 4Matic, BMW Z4, BMW 428i xDrive, Lamborghini Gallardo
For me it was two reasons.
1-I already owned the cable with SmartCord. When I sold my previous car I simply removed it and reused it. In my previous car I had the detector on the passenger side of rearview mirror, because I couldn't completely close the sun visor on drivers side where the detector was mounted. In that case it was nice to have the mute button within easy reach.
2-I like having the lights in my line of sight. Most detectors have "Auto Mute" feature, and sometimes you forget there's an active threat.
If you were buying a new cord, it's your preference. It would be much faster and easier to have just one cord to run to the detector.
BTW, Max 2 is nice. I recently upgraded the 9500ix to Max 360. They had a Black Friday sale when it was 30% off the original price.
Great walkthru. I just hard wired my escort 9500xi. Been wanting to do this for awhile.
Also took the time to install a dashcam. The power cord that came with was the perfect length to run in the headliner next to the windshield and down the A piller and down to the bottom of the dash and back to where the carpet meets the dash on passenger side and then tucked the wire under the center console and back to the 12 volt on the back of the armrest. The cord literally had 5 inches extra length like it was made for our car. The dashcam I got was DOD460w.
Good job with good pictorial instructions. I did my V1's fuse hookup the same way; and, as you did, I ran the wiring up the A column to the headliner, but placed the V1 into its visor clip placing it on the right side of the driver's visor. This way the V1 was not showing as much as it would if I had used the suction cups. Just saying...
Curious why you wrapped the wire around the fuse blade instead of using a fuse doubler. Clearance? Also noticed that your fuses do not have the little "s" next to the amp rating. Some OEM fuses have that designation and they are impossible to find.
C300 4Matic, BMW Z4, BMW 428i xDrive, Lamborghini Gallardo
Originally Posted by auditoamg
Imho, fire waiting to happen without a proper fuse doubler.
Have been doing it this way on all my cars for the last 20 years. Have owned 39 cars to date. If you feel safer with fuse doubler, then by all means...
Have been doing it this way on all my cars for the last 20 years. Have owned 39 cars to date. If you feel safer with fuse doubler, then by all means...
I just paid my dealer to re-wire.
It was well worth it.
They actually wired my cam, detector and 2 other accessories into the spare slots i the fuse box by ordering additional fuse receptacles, etc.
I've also learned there's a junction in the car called Bus25 (I believe) that will provide voltage until the battery gets to 11.5 volts (perfect for dashcams in parking mode) where the relay shuts it down automatically.
It can be reached behind the fusebox, but we chose an alternative route....
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I believe the OP used Fuse 216 (5 Amp Fuse). Not Fuse 208 (7.5 Amp Fuse). I think OP only pulled Fuse 208 for picture purposes to show how to pull the fuse.
OP states "Fuse 216 – this will turn the detector on and off when you turn the car on and off".
Personally, I think you could use both Fuse 216 OR Fuse 218, as long as both are "switched" Fuses. Meaning once the car turns off, the Radar wired to that fuse will also turn off. Same when you turn the car on, radar should turn on.
Sorry to bring up an old thread but I believe the OP used Fuse 216 (5 Amp Fuse). Not Fuse 208 (7.5 Amp Fuse). I think OP only pulled Fuse 208 for picture purposes to show how to pull the fuse.
OP states "Fuse 216 – this will turn the detector on and off when you turn the car on and off".
Personally, I think you could use both Fuse 216 OR Fuse 218, as long as both are "switched" Fuses. Meaning once the car turns off, the Radar wired to that fuse will also turn off. Same when you turn the car on, radar should turn on.
So if I used fuse 208, would that kill the battery in my car? I use an escort max 360c and the screen shuts off but I’m not sure if the car is supplying power at all times to the gauge cluster
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