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1st oil change C300 4matic

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Old Jan 28, 2017 | 11:00 PM
  #1  
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1st oil change C300 4matic

I'm not going to go over all the steps on oil change because they have been well documented on the site already. However, I will say that I opted to drain the oil the traditional way by using the oil drain plug at the bottom of the oil pan.

Looking underneath the car you can see where the oil dipstick fits into the oil pan. Given the complex curves of the dip stick port at the bottom prior to getting into the sump, I would guess that even bottoming out the vacuum tube of the Mitevac in the dipstick port would only allow you to get about 90% of the oil out of the sump. So, for those people who want to complete an oil change the traditional way, you will need the additional part, the copper oil drain o-ring, part number 00076-014106. The oil drain plug is 13 mm and the oil canister is 27 mm. Doing it this way will change the required 7.5 quarts to about 7.6 quarts of oil to read full on the dipstick after cycling the engine. I took a couple of photos since I had the car on my lift to give people a birds eye view of the oil pan.

I also took a pic of the underside of the car to include the exhaust system as I was considering replacing it with a nice mandrel bent system. Looks like I won't have to, the OE system is very nicely done. There are a couple compression bends (the tell tail signs are ripple bends inside the radius of the bend) post cat but they are still very open, even the one 90 degree I found in the system. Very well done Mercedes
Attached Thumbnails 1st oil change C300 4matic-image.jpeg   1st oil change C300 4matic-img_1348.jpg   1st oil change C300 4matic-img_1349.jpg   1st oil change C300 4matic-img_1350.jpg  

Last edited by Myron Ybarra; Jan 29, 2017 at 12:04 AM.
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 09:41 AM
  #2  
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Good timing on this post. I just changed my oil yesterday in my 2016 with a pump. The electric pump I first tried using was terrible. It pumped about a quart, very slowly then it quit pumping. I went to Northern and purchased the Topsider vacuum pump. It worked much better, especially considering the oil was cold by the time I was able to continue with the job. I was able to get just over 7 quarts out. Aside from the trouble with the pump it was relatively easy to pump it out, just need to do it next time with warmer engine oil to speed the process. I thought about putting the car on my lift to finish the job after the first pump quit working but I had already drained about a quart and I didn't want to start the car to move it to the lift. Good info and pics.
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 11:44 AM
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2016 C300 2015 VW TDI Golf 2006 MINI S
If these drain plugs are as finicky as my VWs in the past I would highly recommend the Fomoto valve. I have runt them on both VWs and MINIs without any issues.
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Old Jan 29, 2017 | 01:54 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by mikec35
Good timing on this post. I just changed my oil yesterday in my 2016 with a pump. The electric pump I first tried using was terrible. It pumped about a quart, very slowly then it quit pumping. I went to Northern and purchased the Topsider vacuum pump. It worked much better, especially considering the oil was cold by the time I was able to continue with the job. I was able to get just over 7 quarts out. Aside from the trouble with the pump it was relatively easy to pump it out, just need to do it next time with warmer engine oil to speed the process. I thought about putting the car on my lift to finish the job after the first pump quit working but I had already drained about a quart and I didn't want to start the car to move it to the lift. Good info and pics.
I really struggled over this because the Mercedes procedure calls for using a Mityvac to pull the oil from the sump. I have a Mityvac so it would have been no problem for me to do this. However, my curiosity got the best of me and as soon as I found the part number for the drain plug washer, I figured that it's also a viable option to drain the oil from the sump. The oil drain process isn't any different from any other vehicle I've changed before. The sump appears to be cast aluminum with a steel threaded insert for the drain plug so I was concerned about over torquing the plug as i didn't want to strip out the insert. I searched but couldn't find any torque setting for the drain plug so I tightened it to 20ft lbs based on torque settings on sumps that have the same material/design (Mazda Miata). The copper crush washer deformed a bit so I know there is a good seal. As of this morning, no leaks.

Originally Posted by Crankster
If these drain plugs are as finicky as my VWs in the past I would highly recommend the Fomoto valve. I have runt them on both VWs and MINIs without any issues.
The drain plug is very accessible and isn't any more difficult to remove or install than any other vehicle. The Fomoto drain plugs are nice but IMHO, not necessary.

Last edited by Myron Ybarra; Feb 1, 2017 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 12:13 PM
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I only have 100 miles so far so it will be a while before I do it. But I like the idea about draining. My CTS had a lower cover which was a little tricky to remove.

Do you have any words of advice for gaining access to the drain plug?
Thanks.
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Old Jan 30, 2017 | 10:22 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by celmem
I only have 100 miles so far so it will be a while before I do it. But I like the idea about draining. My CTS had a lower cover which was a little tricky to remove.

Do you have any words of advice for gaining access to the drain plug?
Thanks.
Really there's no special equipment needed to do a traditional oil sump drain on your W205. I'll try to alleviate some of your worry about the job though; the oil sump does kinda look like the bottom of a trans sump (there is a black cover at the bottom of the engine oil sump reminiscent of a valve body cover for a transmission sump) but it's actually the engine oil sump. The lower body cover is held on with eight, 8mm bolts that thread into threaded clips. I recommend a little 1/4 drive lithium ion battery impact driver to remove/install them, it will make the oil change go much faster. Taking the bolts off is a no brainer but when you re-install them, use a bit of mechanical empathy or you will strip out the threaded clip fasteners. Beyond that, a jack, a couple jack stands, a 13 and 27mm socket (for the oil drain plug and oil filter canister) your replacement oil (229.5) and filter coupled with a time investment of less than an hour and you're golden.

Last edited by Myron Ybarra; Jan 30, 2017 at 11:40 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 12:16 PM
  #7  
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2017 C300 Coupe (C205)
Originally Posted by Myron Ybarra
Looking underneath the car you can see where the oil dipstick fits into the oil pan. Given the complex curves of the dip stick port at the bottom prior to getting into the sump, I would guess that even bottoming out the vacuum tube of the Mitevac in the dipstick port would only allow you to get about 90% of the oil out of the sump.
Can you go a little further in describing this or even circle the area where the dipstick fits into the oil pan? I only have the parts diagram and the dipstick tube doesn't look like it has any complex curves, but it also doesn't show where exactly it comes into the upper or lower oil pan (see item #11 & 12).

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Old Jan 31, 2017 | 10:06 PM
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Here you go...
As you can see, the entry point of the dip stick doesn't even get anywhere near the deepest part of the sump. Think about it; the oil level notches in the dip stick end are about 2 inches apart from "low" to "full". I can promise you the oil sump is deeper than 2 inches.
Attached Thumbnails 1st oil change C300 4matic-mb-oil-pan-diagram.gif  

Last edited by Myron Ybarra; Jan 31, 2017 at 10:09 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 11:42 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Myron Ybarra
Here you go...
As you can see, the entry point of the dip stick doesn't even get anywhere near the deepest part of the sump. Think about it; the oil level notches in the dip stick end are about 2 inches apart from "low" to "full". I can promise you the oil sump is deeper than 2 inches.
From the diagrams, is certainly does appear that the bottom of the sump is not in the range of the dipstick. However, I now ask why do you think that MB uses a vacuum pump when it may not reach the bottom of the sump? Perhaps, their pump has an extension? BTW, I've changed the oil on my 2 previously owned two new BMWs (annually for a total of 14 years for the two cars) via a pump and when I sold the cars (both 11 years old with 45K and 65K miles) their engines purrrrred. Furthermore, I as my car is leased for three years, I'll be pumping it myself and doubt if there will be any problems when I return the car to MB.
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Old Feb 1, 2017 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by flycaster
From the diagrams, is certainly does appear that the bottom of the sump is not in the range of the dipstick. However, I now ask why do you think that MB uses a vacuum pump when it may not reach the bottom of the sump? Perhaps, their pump has an extension? BTW, I've changed the oil on my 2 previously owned two new BMWs (annually for a total of 14 years for the two cars) via a pump and when I sold the cars (both 11 years old with 45K and 65K miles) their engines purrrrred. Furthermore, I as my car is leased for three years, I'll be pumping it myself and doubt if there will be any problems when I return the car to MB.
I believe MB techs use the pump for convenience sake, although who's to say. I can't comment on the good fortune of your experience with using a pump vs draining the oil sump and the resulting purring engines, lol. I can say with tighter piston ring to cylinder wall clearances, I don't want to mix very much suspended solids and/or fuel contaminated old oil with new oil so I'll be draining the conventional way. That way, I'm virtually assured that I'll have no internal engine issues as a result of mixing large amounts of old with new oil. FYI, even with draining at the sump, there is oil inside the engine (up in the head, in the HLA's and in the oil passages throughout the engine) that can't be drained so I'm aware that there will be some level of mixing old with new oil. I just want to minimize that amount by draining at the sump.
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 10:32 AM
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I plan to do the vacuum method once we hit 10k miles. Since our car is a lease, it should be fine.
Even though the dipstick doesn't reach down, I'm curious how much I'll be able to extract since the extraction tube goes way further down than the actual dipstick. Once we hit 10k miles (we're only at 2k now), I'll try to remember to report back!
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Old Feb 2, 2017 | 12:26 PM
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I am a drainer also...will be doing my first oil change this weekend on the c300...since i had to buy 10 quarts I might pour some in the filler after it is drained, but before i put the drain plug back in. This might flush out some of the galleys...probably overkill, but I am having a hard enough time waiting for the 10,000 mark to do oil changes.
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 08:04 AM
  #13  
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2015 C300 4matic - W205
All good stuff and did all (or most of you) stick with 0w40 Mobil 1 or did you move to 5w30 Mobil 1 ?
Also Local shop near me has been working on Benz /BMW's for years have had concerns with going 10,000 mile changes as they have seen some of their long term customers having challenges around the 100,000 mile mark in doing the 10, 000 intervals., Now not sure what oils they were using but according to the shop which maintained most of those cars they were using the Spec'd synthetic.

So they wound up putting 5w30 in my 2015 C300 and yes the manual says you can use it, but the dealear on serivce A used 0w40. So now I am confused / concerned if I should tell them to dump the 5w30 and put in the 0w40

Any thoughts on above items appreciated
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 03:14 PM
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I think you'll find out that the manual specifies both. If your part of Georgia has really cold winters then 0W40 else 5W30 is fine.
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 04:11 PM
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Thanks, Yes manual does specify both and I am in the south part of Georgia south of ATL.
Just I would always stay with what the engine was broken in with which was 0w40. Mechanic said should be no issue with 5w30. You just never know with so much out there on oil
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Old Feb 4, 2017 | 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by ljpzap
Thanks, Yes manual does specify both and I am in the south part of Georgia south of ATL.
Just I would always stay with what the engine was broken in with which was 0w40. Mechanic said should be no issue with 5w30. You just never know with so much out there on oil
Based on where you live, 5W40 would be my choice.

Last edited by larrypmyers; Feb 4, 2017 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 10:05 PM
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Well found out 3 things today
1) Local MB dealer who did my service A used 5W40
2) Factory fill for C-Class in the US was 5W30
3) Mobil 1 website recommends 0W30 for 205 C-Class made in USA. http://www.mobil1.co.uk/which-synthe...t_id=EFt8Pma9w
So how in the world is anyone to make sense out of this as to what is optimal and right to use in the car. Just crazy
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 10:44 PM
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Hilarious
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Old Feb 7, 2017 | 11:34 PM
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I purchased my car in Greenville Sc. The shop advisor said to use 5w40. I went to the parts department and they recommended 5w40 as well. I'm going to buy all my oil and filters from the dealer so atleast if I have a problem with the engine down the road they will know I'm using the right oil and filters since I am doing my service myself and don't want to void the warranty.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 09:32 AM
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W205
Now I'm confused, I thought it's 0W40 oil for the W205. I'm in NJ, Northeast US.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 09:49 AM
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that is what i read and just used in my oil change over the weekend and I am in NY. Very confusing information out on the 2016..it has lead me to buy the wrong size wipers (24" in every post and book at the stores) and wrong oil filter cartridge socket....
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 10:33 AM
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I'd say in the colder climates 0w is probably recommended. I'd check with the service advisor at the dealership.
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 11:36 AM
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I know this is going to be a wake up call for and really hard for a lot of you guys to digest, but the information you seek is clearly listed in your Owner's manual.
The approved engine oil for the W205 is listed in the Mercedes Benz Sheet/Specification 229.5
Certain brands and types of oils are approved with oil weights of 0w-30, 0w-40, 5w-30 and 5w-40.

The specific list of oils (brand, type and weight) approved for use can be found here:
https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html
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Old Feb 8, 2017 | 12:11 PM
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Yeah....but we are guys....we don't read or ask directions!
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Old Feb 9, 2017 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by clifish
Yeah....but we are guys....we don't read or ask directions!
Based on your response, it looks like you DID read! LOL
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