Check Engine Code P052E
With your information I think I am better informed. I am deciding now to get the part and attempt the fix or bring it into a mechanic. Had a very good email exchange with Excellerate Sevrice out of Branford CT regarding this issue. anyway thank you for your post and all of the information you provided
With your information I think I am better informed. I am deciding now to get the part and attempt the fix or bring it into a mechanic. Had a very good email exchange with Excellerate Sevrice out of Branford CT regarding this issue. anyway thank you for your post and all of the information you provided
I have not installed this yet
I tried a simple fix first
I knew the engine had 0w-40 in it and the level on the dipstick was just over the max line
I am taking a guess that the 40 weight oil was to thick and the level was too high
I changed out the oil to 5w-30 full synthetic and made sure the level of oil was right in the middle of the min and max line on the dipstick
with my OBD reader I erased the code and have not seen the code reappear for about three weeks now
I have not installed this yet
I tried a simple fix first
I knew the engine had 0w-40 in it and the level on the dipstick was just over the max line
I am taking a guess that the 40 weight oil was to thick and the level was too high
I changed out the oil to 5w-30 full synthetic and made sure the level of oil was right in the middle of the min and max line on the dipstick
with my OBD reader I erased the code and have not seen the code reappear for about three weeks now
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
One day, while at a red light, I had this occur but on the restart, there was black smoke and a burning smell. The car failed to start after that. Went into limp mode. Had to tow to a local Mercedes shop. After a little runaround, was told battery voltage is low and that starter was bad, and the crankcase breather assembly needed to be replaced. Quoted ~ $3k job. I found it hard to believe all this went bad.
I had replaced the battery about 1.5 yrs ago on my own and had no issues so I got a free warranty replacement from advance auto parts. I put that in and bought a Bosch OEM starter for $300 and had them install along with OEM Mercedes Crankcase Breather Assembly which they got from the dealer. Given the difficulty in installing those parts and the fact the car was in limp mode, I had them do that work and negotiated to $2k.
The car started and works fine. I was able to drive it away. No error code or check engine light on the dashboard. I still get the eco start stop stall issue when restarting from a red light. I can put it into P or N and it restarts. Also if I turn off ECO start-stop, no issues. I try to remember to turn off but sometimes my wife drives it or I'll forget and we stall at a red light.
Any ideas why this is happening even with a new crankcase breather assembly, starter, and battery? Is there a fairly simple fix? I've read everything from the fuse, battery programming, fuel pump, but just not sure. BTW I did change the auxiliary battery under the passenger about 2 yrs ago but it said auxiliary battery dysfunction on the dashboard back then. There are no error messages now. As a kicker, I do at times smell gas in the cabin when starting the car as described on the forum but I wonder if that's another issue.
Last edited by MBenzOwner; Mar 9, 2021 at 12:00 AM.
One day, while at a red light, I had this occur but on the restart, there was black smoke and a burning smell. The car failed to start after that. Went into limp mode. Had to tow to a local Mercedes shop. After a little runaround, was told battery voltage is low and that starter was bad, and the crankcase breather assembly needed to be replaced. Quoted ~ $3k job. I found it hard to believe all this went bad.
I had replaced the battery about 1.5 yrs ago on my own and had no issues so I got a free warranty replacement from advance auto parts. I put that in and bought a Bosch OEM starter for $300 and had them install along with OEM Mercedes Crankcase Breather Assembly which they got from the dealer. Given the difficulty in installing those parts and the fact the car was in limp mode, I had them do that work and negotiated to $2k.
The car started and works fine. I was able to drive it away. No error code or check engine light on the dashboard. I still get the eco start stop stall issue when restarting from a red light. I can put it into P or N and it restarts. Also if I turn off ECO start-stop, no issues. I try to remember to turn off but sometimes my wife drives it or I'll forget and we stall at a red light.
Any ideas why this is happening even with a new crankcase breather assembly, starter, and battery? Is there a fairly simple fix? I've read everything from the fuse, battery programming, fuel pump, but just not sure. BTW I did change the auxiliary battery under the passenger about 2 yrs ago but it said auxiliary battery dysfunction on the dashboard back then. There are no error messages now. As a kicker, I do at times smell gas in the cabin when starting the car as described on the forum but I wonder if that's another issue.
I have the same problems. Besides the PO52E I occasionally smell gas in the cabin. Also I have a message that auxiliary battery malfunction. It’s 2015 C300 4 matic.
what is the deal?

Last edited by Alexander S; Mar 29, 2021 at 01:59 PM.
1. The auxiliary battery is below the passenger footwell. Can be changed as there are videos online but takes about 1-2 hrs and about $50-100 of parts. This only affects start-stop so it's not a critical repair but more of a nuisance.
2. The P052E is the crankcase vent assembly. It's a snake-like monstrosity part that can not be changed by most home mechanics. I've seen non-Mercedes OEM quality parts online for 350 but the dealer charged around 700. It is like a 7-11hr job though, so labor can add up. I had an abrupt car failure with it but people have reported driving for a while without issues.
3. The fuel issue is very common and due to a leak at the hose connections to the fuel rail. You can prob have any knowledgeable mechanic order the hoses for $50-100 and put them in. The mechanic also replaced the o-ring for the high-pressure fuel pump. This whole repair was only 1-2 hrs labor. One issue i had was just changing the rubber hose at the bottom as it didn't solve the issue. Since the parts are cheap, it's best to just change both.
i owned 2015 MB GLA250 and has reached to 56,000 miles. I have been having On/OFF Check engine light. I used the my friend scanner and got the code P052E, has detected a signal coming from the CKP (crankcase pressure sensor) that is inappropriate for the existing degree of pressure. Contacted my regular MB mechanic and he told me its a big and costly job. Any assistance appreciated ....
i owned 2015 MB GLA250 and has reached to 56,000 miles. I have been having On/OFF Check engine light. I used the my friend scanner and got the code P052E, has detected a signal coming from the CKP (crankcase pressure sensor) that is inappropriate for the existing degree of pressure. Contacted my regular MB mechanic and he told me its a big and costly job. Any assistance appreciated ....
I don't know if it comes back, I will post here in such case.
Long story short, the whole modern philosophy of the car repair is very simple: nobody is interested to actually fix the item. The dealer must sell you the whole system. Soon enough they will offer you to change the whole engine if any error comes up. Of course, mercedes is supposed to be luxury brand for the rich people who do not care about the price and repairs, but I assume that people in this forum does not belong them.
Believe me, I thought of everything to try and fix this on my own but in the end, it is difficult to access and given the labor involved, it seems better to replace the whole part given it is available for ~$350, even on amazon. Hate to have to put the labor in twice. Even the dealer Mercedes one is made by the other company (Kayser?) so generic may be ok. It is an odd part so I can't imagine many generic companies wanting/needing to make this. Those that have had the part replaced have not had recurrent issues. I think fundamentally, the part is poorly designed given its numerous failures. The failure point may even be in the oil separator portion attached low on the engine. Hopefully, with it occurring more frequently now as cars get older, mechanics will get more familiar and possibly offer lower labor charges.
Or did the code come back?






