Wow I want to thank everyone for their input concerning this dreaded code. I read everything about this online and I opted to buy the parts, which totaled $ 311.00 with the $ 30.00 core charge, online versus the dealerships quote of a few hundred dollars more.
I took it to my mechanic here in Maryland along with the printed out "step by step" instructions that are stated in this thread and it took him 3 hours @ $84.00 an hour totaling around $ 264.00. So with the parts of $ 311.00 the total was $ 575.00 less the core return rebate of $ 30.00 brought it "out the door" of $ 545.00.
I was lucky that my mechanic knew about this, was experienced about this, and though it was labor intensive he got through it using his knowledge and a few peeks at the "step my step instructions".
The dealership had quoted me $ 1682.00 for this repair and it was NOT covered by my extended warranty. Man,. I should have gotten the Mercedes Benz extended warranty as I read here that in some cases they covered it.
If everyone here that had the same problem reported it to NHTSA there may be enough data to mandate a recall. It takes about 10 minutes to fill out the online complaint. Here is the link https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/
THANK YOU again to everyone here at MB World for you all are truly the best.

 

Nice. You made out quite nicely. 3hrs Labor is also quite a saving from the official listed hrs. You should list the name / shop for anyone in the area that needs to get this done or anyone willing to travel for a good deal.

 

The name of the shop is Rivera Tire Center in Hagerstown, MD 21742. They are close to Pennsylvania, and West Virginia line and about an hour from Northern Virginia about about 1 1/2 from Washington DC.
I have used them for everything from tune ups to oil changes to this and they have over 105 5-star reviews on Google. They live up to it. THANK YOU for your response

 

The code came back but 3 months later. Cold weather but only with maybe 1,000 miles on the oil change. Seeing more recent posts about just the PCV replacement, instead of the whole line, but that particular part is in the middle of the intake line, under a bunch of compression fittings that are not easily removable. Also a number of posts mention dealer representatives stating that the new part is 'redesigned', implying it's an improvement and won't break down again. PCVs do break down though so skeptical of that.

I am going to have a look at this diaphragm if I can get to it.

PCV Diaphragm replacement post
https://mbworld.org/forums/glc-class...ml#post8309784

Intake Line part number
274-090-17-29-80 - Intake Line

 

Before attempting to take a look at the PCV diaphragm part a good friend suggested that I check the oil level one more time, which I did last night. I drained about 3/4 of a quart and cleared the code, and this morning took it for a drive. The CEL has remained off. My wife even ran a bunch of errands with the car and the CEL is still off.

Will certainly continue to monitor and post updates but for now I’m just going with that engine oil viscosity/weight and oil level, and maybe it’s really just the oil level.

 

I just extracted the engine oil from max level to min level about 1 inch, 1 liter.

Then I got 3 times CEL during 30km driving. I will try extracting 1 more liter
But not expecting much

 

Yeah my CEL did come back on after about 50 miles. Being a Saturday I just drained out another 1/2 quart so it's close to the MIN level on the dipstick. Still, not expecting much from this latest oil level adjustment.

 

I extracted all 6 liters remaining oil, and poured fresh 5w40 synthetic oil 5.1 liters, which make the dip stick as the minimum level.

After driving 200 km, I got twice CELs.

 

hi
i would i know if my car is covered under warranty or not with p052e code coming???

 

what are the warranty eligible period for fixing p052e ?

 

I had a local Benz dealer complete the repair. After discounts and haggling I believe the cost of parts and labor was around $1,300. I asked to keep the old part because I wanted to inspect it. It seems to be the diaphragm cracks or splits and is then faulty.

I don't believe I caused this small rip.. so here it is. A rip in the crease of the very thin diaphragm.

Upon keeping the now old part, and taking the cap off of the diaphragm housing, I was able to carefully take the diaphragm off after taking the spring and retaining plastic cap off.

This was the questionable part from a number of other posts on this topic.. this little rubber diaphragm.

 

how does the piece that bolts to the engine look ? I always figured a failure was that getting gummed up.

 

I took this photo from the front end of the engine compartment and focus the camera right in on that housing for the diaphragm. The green arrow shows the only bolt holding it in but is terrible to get out. Not to mention almost impossible to snap the top off of the diaphragm housing in order to change out the diaphragm part.

 

i mean the back side that actually bolts to the engine. Since you have the part off I was curious what it looks like

 

this piece / area

 

I don't have any better pictures than you have or could find. The dealer replaced (whole) part on my C300 is what I attached above, but I think I abandoned the project once I determined that it would take me 12 or 18 hours of work. The "U" shaped hose and even the diaphragm piece are not the most difficult to reach. As you are aware I'm sure.. it's the end part you attached the picture of that is most complicated by far. No idea where that ends up in the engine compartment. I could find it.. again though.. just had to make a decision for myself that I was going to have the Benz service department do the work. Luckily I religiously rate them all 10s each and every time so that is why they were able to provide some goodwill and give me some discounts.

 

Please list the name of the shop. I'm in VA and need mine repaired. BTW I submitted a report to NHTSA.

 

I replaced mine by myself for my 2017 GLC300.
Not easy for the normal/entry DIYers.
See
https://mbworld.org/forums/glc-class...ml#post8395488

 

de

I recently got the same code in my 2015 c300, along with P0597-00z. just brought it to the dealership today…. Total was $2850, but just for the crankcase vent it is $1400 plus $180 diagnostic fee. Warranty just ran out 2k miles ago! 😡

 

I had a bad week since Monday. Check engine started on Tuesday night. By Thursday I had someone to check my car. Its the code P052e. Now he charged me $200 for the diagnose that he will discount me the price at the end.
funny thing is now that the engine light turned off by itself. Should I countinue with the replacement? My technician is looking for the replacement part.

 

I was able to fixed the P052E on my B250 after a lengthy thinking with the headache for months. All you need to do is the part number A000997012 called Car Vacuum Solenoid Valve. Just cut off the hose and reattach it with the clamp.

 

Hi Jeff,
Could you please share the link(s) to the part(s) you bought online?
And, if you still have those step-by-step instructions on you, could you attach them as images/pdf here?
Would be very helpful since the same code P052E has popped up on my boyfriend's 2017 C300 at 55k miles (and the warranty period has passed!)

 

Hello all.. from what I see I can tell the v6 Turbo engines are more reliable that the 2.0L engines but I want to know if any one had this problem for their v6 and replaced this part and how they did it.
There is so many post around C300 but very little on fixing and replacing parts on the C450/C43 AMG engines.

 

delete

 

Sang Vo - Where did you buy the part? Did remove any other parts to get to it?