Check Engine Code P052E
#26
code P052E MB C300 4matic
With your information I think I am better informed. I am deciding now to get the part and attempt the fix or bring it into a mechanic. Had a very good email exchange with Excellerate Sevrice out of Branford CT regarding this issue. anyway thank you for your post and all of the information you provided
#27
Member
Thread Starter
I just wanted to thank you for posting all of the info regarding this code P052E . I am going through this right now on a 2015 C300 4 matic it has 59 k on the odometer.
With your information I think I am better informed. I am deciding now to get the part and attempt the fix or bring it into a mechanic. Had a very good email exchange with Excellerate Sevrice out of Branford CT regarding this issue. anyway thank you for your post and all of the information you provided
With your information I think I am better informed. I am deciding now to get the part and attempt the fix or bring it into a mechanic. Had a very good email exchange with Excellerate Sevrice out of Branford CT regarding this issue. anyway thank you for your post and all of the information you provided
#29
I had this code come up about a year ago and brought it to the dealer where they replaced the PCV valve under warranty and said the issue will not come back. In the past week I had the code come up again so I will be bringing it to the dealer once again. Does anyone know what would cause this problem to happen again?
#30
P052e code in 2015 C300About one month ago this code came up on my wife's 2015 C300 4 matic I did buy the part online (274-090-17-29-80 - Intake Line) cost was $260
I have not installed this yet
I tried a simple fix first
I knew the engine had 0w-40 in it and the level on the dipstick was just over the max line
I am taking a guess that the 40 weight oil was to thick and the level was too high
I changed out the oil to 5w-30 full synthetic and made sure the level of oil was right in the middle of the min and max line on the dipstick
with my OBD reader I erased the code and have not seen the code reappear for about three weeks now
I have not installed this yet
I tried a simple fix first
I knew the engine had 0w-40 in it and the level on the dipstick was just over the max line
I am taking a guess that the 40 weight oil was to thick and the level was too high
I changed out the oil to 5w-30 full synthetic and made sure the level of oil was right in the middle of the min and max line on the dipstick
with my OBD reader I erased the code and have not seen the code reappear for about three weeks now
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5p0rt0 (10-24-2020)
#31
I'm not sure of the Check Engine Code but it sounds similar to what part is being replaced; the vent kit according to my SA. 2016 C300 4Matic @ 75K km's. $600 parts + $1000 full day labor. Luckily I still have a week left til my factory warranty ends. CEL was on for a few hours then turned off but dealer diagnosed it while the CEL is on.
#32
Have you seen the code after you did that oil fix? Stated 3 weeks, but any updates?
P052e code in 2015 C300About one month ago this code came up on my wife's 2015 C300 4 matic I did buy the part online (274-090-17-29-80 - Intake Line) cost was $260
I have not installed this yet
I tried a simple fix first
I knew the engine had 0w-40 in it and the level on the dipstick was just over the max line
I am taking a guess that the 40 weight oil was to thick and the level was too high
I changed out the oil to 5w-30 full synthetic and made sure the level of oil was right in the middle of the min and max line on the dipstick
with my OBD reader I erased the code and have not seen the code reappear for about three weeks now
I have not installed this yet
I tried a simple fix first
I knew the engine had 0w-40 in it and the level on the dipstick was just over the max line
I am taking a guess that the 40 weight oil was to thick and the level was too high
I changed out the oil to 5w-30 full synthetic and made sure the level of oil was right in the middle of the min and max line on the dipstick
with my OBD reader I erased the code and have not seen the code reappear for about three weeks now
#34
I’m a Tech for MB, maybe I can shed some insight. The component we replace has an oil separator and the actual crankcase vent valve, we call them vent valves for short since the oil separator is including in the line. It’s also called an intake line since it is also connected to the intake system off the turbo. Most dealers are gonna ask for 5+ hours because it is very labor intensive and if you do not have the required tools it is almost impossible. You have to have some way to support the engine as the vent valve lives behind the drivers side engine mount. You also need long thin extensions, universal external torx sockets, torx sockets, a screw jack of one that sits on top of the engine end holds it from the top. Definitely not a DIY without those tools and a hoist.
The following 3 users liked this post by Jrounsborg:
#35
Have a 2015 C300 W205 RWD with 100k miles. I had this P052E issue come up periodically with the check engine light about 6 months ago. It would also fail to restart sometimes when at a light using the ECO/Start-Stop feature. So basically you would stall at a red light, all dashboard lights would come on, and you would have to put into P or N to restart the car. I had looked up the code and it pointed to the crankcase breather assembly. I was planning to get it replaced but it didn't seem critical.
One day, while at a red light, I had this occur but on the restart, there was black smoke and a burning smell. The car failed to start after that. Went into limp mode. Had to tow to a local Mercedes shop. After a little runaround, was told battery voltage is low and that starter was bad, and the crankcase breather assembly needed to be replaced. Quoted ~ $3k job. I found it hard to believe all this went bad.
I had replaced the battery about 1.5 yrs ago on my own and had no issues so I got a free warranty replacement from advance auto parts. I put that in and bought a Bosch OEM starter for $300 and had them install along with OEM Mercedes Crankcase Breather Assembly which they got from the dealer. Given the difficulty in installing those parts and the fact the car was in limp mode, I had them do that work and negotiated to $2k.
The car started and works fine. I was able to drive it away. No error code or check engine light on the dashboard. I still get the eco start stop stall issue when restarting from a red light. I can put it into P or N and it restarts. Also if I turn off ECO start-stop, no issues. I try to remember to turn off but sometimes my wife drives it or I'll forget and we stall at a red light.
Any ideas why this is happening even with a new crankcase breather assembly, starter, and battery? Is there a fairly simple fix? I've read everything from the fuse, battery programming, fuel pump, but just not sure. BTW I did change the auxiliary battery under the passenger about 2 yrs ago but it said auxiliary battery dysfunction on the dashboard back then. There are no error messages now. As a kicker, I do at times smell gas in the cabin when starting the car as described on the forum but I wonder if that's another issue.
One day, while at a red light, I had this occur but on the restart, there was black smoke and a burning smell. The car failed to start after that. Went into limp mode. Had to tow to a local Mercedes shop. After a little runaround, was told battery voltage is low and that starter was bad, and the crankcase breather assembly needed to be replaced. Quoted ~ $3k job. I found it hard to believe all this went bad.
I had replaced the battery about 1.5 yrs ago on my own and had no issues so I got a free warranty replacement from advance auto parts. I put that in and bought a Bosch OEM starter for $300 and had them install along with OEM Mercedes Crankcase Breather Assembly which they got from the dealer. Given the difficulty in installing those parts and the fact the car was in limp mode, I had them do that work and negotiated to $2k.
The car started and works fine. I was able to drive it away. No error code or check engine light on the dashboard. I still get the eco start stop stall issue when restarting from a red light. I can put it into P or N and it restarts. Also if I turn off ECO start-stop, no issues. I try to remember to turn off but sometimes my wife drives it or I'll forget and we stall at a red light.
Any ideas why this is happening even with a new crankcase breather assembly, starter, and battery? Is there a fairly simple fix? I've read everything from the fuse, battery programming, fuel pump, but just not sure. BTW I did change the auxiliary battery under the passenger about 2 yrs ago but it said auxiliary battery dysfunction on the dashboard back then. There are no error messages now. As a kicker, I do at times smell gas in the cabin when starting the car as described on the forum but I wonder if that's another issue.
Last edited by MBenzOwner; 03-09-2021 at 12:00 AM.
#36
Hi, I have a 2017 I bought in October 2020. I bought the extended warranty plan, and the car still has less than 25k miles. My check engine light was on, and this was the issue - but I am being told this is NOT covered under any warranty. Is this true? The dealer quoted my $900. The light went off before I went in for the diags, so wondering how urgent this repair is.
#37
Hi, I have a 2017 I bought in October 2020. I bought the extended warranty plan, and the car still has less than 25k miles. My check engine light was on, and this was the issue - but I am being told this is NOT covered under any warranty. Is this true? The dealer quoted my $900. The light went off before I went in for the diags, so wondering how urgent this repair is.
#39
Have a 2015 C300 W205 RWD with 100k miles. I had this P052E issue come up periodically with the check engine light about 6 months ago. It would also fail to restart sometimes when at a light using the ECO/Start-Stop feature. So basically you would stall at a red light, all dashboard lights would come on, and you would have to put into P or N to restart the car. I had looked up the code and it pointed to the crankcase breather assembly. I was planning to get it replaced but it didn't seem critical.
One day, while at a red light, I had this occur but on the restart, there was black smoke and a burning smell. The car failed to start after that. Went into limp mode. Had to tow to a local Mercedes shop. After a little runaround, was told battery voltage is low and that starter was bad, and the crankcase breather assembly needed to be replaced. Quoted ~ $3k job. I found it hard to believe all this went bad.
I had replaced the battery about 1.5 yrs ago on my own and had no issues so I got a free warranty replacement from advance auto parts. I put that in and bought a Bosch OEM starter for $300 and had them install along with OEM Mercedes Crankcase Breather Assembly which they got from the dealer. Given the difficulty in installing those parts and the fact the car was in limp mode, I had them do that work and negotiated to $2k.
The car started and works fine. I was able to drive it away. No error code or check engine light on the dashboard. I still get the eco start stop stall issue when restarting from a red light. I can put it into P or N and it restarts. Also if I turn off ECO start-stop, no issues. I try to remember to turn off but sometimes my wife drives it or I'll forget and we stall at a red light.
Any ideas why this is happening even with a new crankcase breather assembly, starter, and battery? Is there a fairly simple fix? I've read everything from the fuse, battery programming, fuel pump, but just not sure. BTW I did change the auxiliary battery under the passenger about 2 yrs ago but it said auxiliary battery dysfunction on the dashboard back then. There are no error messages now. As a kicker, I do at times smell gas in the cabin when starting the car as described on the forum but I wonder if that's another issue.
One day, while at a red light, I had this occur but on the restart, there was black smoke and a burning smell. The car failed to start after that. Went into limp mode. Had to tow to a local Mercedes shop. After a little runaround, was told battery voltage is low and that starter was bad, and the crankcase breather assembly needed to be replaced. Quoted ~ $3k job. I found it hard to believe all this went bad.
I had replaced the battery about 1.5 yrs ago on my own and had no issues so I got a free warranty replacement from advance auto parts. I put that in and bought a Bosch OEM starter for $300 and had them install along with OEM Mercedes Crankcase Breather Assembly which they got from the dealer. Given the difficulty in installing those parts and the fact the car was in limp mode, I had them do that work and negotiated to $2k.
The car started and works fine. I was able to drive it away. No error code or check engine light on the dashboard. I still get the eco start stop stall issue when restarting from a red light. I can put it into P or N and it restarts. Also if I turn off ECO start-stop, no issues. I try to remember to turn off but sometimes my wife drives it or I'll forget and we stall at a red light.
Any ideas why this is happening even with a new crankcase breather assembly, starter, and battery? Is there a fairly simple fix? I've read everything from the fuse, battery programming, fuel pump, but just not sure. BTW I did change the auxiliary battery under the passenger about 2 yrs ago but it said auxiliary battery dysfunction on the dashboard back then. There are no error messages now. As a kicker, I do at times smell gas in the cabin when starting the car as described on the forum but I wonder if that's another issue.
I have the same problems. Besides the PO52E I occasionally smell gas in the cabin. Also I have a message that auxiliary battery malfunction. It’s 2015 C300 4 matic.
what is the deal?
#40
Hello from the Europe here. I am driving 2015 c300 w205 , USA model. Got that code after 50k km. There is no any other effect on the engine, everything works well. I asked the official dealer about the repair, he asked for 600 eur for the parts (attached picture) and the labour 700 eur = 1300 eur. I checked with other unofficial services and found a guy who changed only the valve itself (attached picture) and cleaned everything around. The error disappeared, everything works fine. I paid 130 eur ( ~150 USD). I like the real, actual prices of the work
Last edited by Alexander S; 03-29-2021 at 01:59 PM.
#41
I had the auxiliary batter malfunction error. The clamps of the battery were loose and did not charge properly. I fastened them, the error disappeared, no more problems.
#42
1. The auxiliary battery is below the passenger footwell. Can be changed as there are videos online but takes about 1-2 hrs and about $50-100 of parts. This only affects start-stop so it's not a critical repair but more of a nuisance.
2. The P052E is the crankcase vent assembly. It's a snake-like monstrosity part that can not be changed by most home mechanics. I've seen non-Mercedes OEM quality parts online for 350 but the dealer charged around 700. It is like a 7-11hr job though, so labor can add up. I had an abrupt car failure with it but people have reported driving for a while without issues.
3. The fuel issue is very common and due to a leak at the hose connections to the fuel rail. You can prob have any knowledgeable mechanic order the hoses for $50-100 and put them in. The mechanic also replaced the o-ring for the high-pressure fuel pump. This whole repair was only 1-2 hrs labor. One issue i had was just changing the rubber hose at the bottom as it didn't solve the issue. Since the parts are cheap, it's best to just change both.
#43
Hello Guys
i owned 2015 MB GLA250 and has reached to 56,000 miles. I have been having On/OFF Check engine light. I used the my friend scanner and got the code P052E, has detected a signal coming from the CKP (crankcase pressure sensor) that is inappropriate for the existing degree of pressure. Contacted my regular MB mechanic and he told me its a big and costly job. Any assistance appreciated ....
i owned 2015 MB GLA250 and has reached to 56,000 miles. I have been having On/OFF Check engine light. I used the my friend scanner and got the code P052E, has detected a signal coming from the CKP (crankcase pressure sensor) that is inappropriate for the existing degree of pressure. Contacted my regular MB mechanic and he told me its a big and costly job. Any assistance appreciated ....
#44
That's great you got it resolved but for most of us, the part is sold as one snake-like monstrosity from dealer or even OEM generic. I suspect the portion with the sensor / electrical components which triggers the code, is not that piece, so the code may come back. Also given the labor involved 7-11hrs, it makes sense to just change the whole part rather than having to do it twice.
#45
Hello Guys
i owned 2015 MB GLA250 and has reached to 56,000 miles. I have been having On/OFF Check engine light. I used the my friend scanner and got the code P052E, has detected a signal coming from the CKP (crankcase pressure sensor) that is inappropriate for the existing degree of pressure. Contacted my regular MB mechanic and he told me its a big and costly job. Any assistance appreciated ....
i owned 2015 MB GLA250 and has reached to 56,000 miles. I have been having On/OFF Check engine light. I used the my friend scanner and got the code P052E, has detected a signal coming from the CKP (crankcase pressure sensor) that is inappropriate for the existing degree of pressure. Contacted my regular MB mechanic and he told me its a big and costly job. Any assistance appreciated ....
#46
That's great you got it resolved but for most of us, the part is sold as one snake-like monstrosity from dealer or even OEM generic. I suspect the portion with the sensor / electrical components which triggers the code, is not that piece, so the code may come back. Also given the labor involved 7-11hrs, it makes sense to just change the whole part rather than having to do it twice.
I don't know if it comes back, I will post here in such case.
Long story short, the whole modern philosophy of the car repair is very simple: nobody is interested to actually fix the item. The dealer must sell you the whole system. Soon enough they will offer you to change the whole engine if any error comes up. Of course, mercedes is supposed to be luxury brand for the rich people who do not care about the price and repairs, but I assume that people in this forum does not belong them.
#47
There is a lot wrong with the modern repair system and it is geared toward saving actual labor time vs the listed labor time but that's a bigger issue. This is what the part looked like in my 2015 W205. Not sure you can change one portion as those are not easily available from the dealer or online parts stores. Maybe junkyard parts but that comes with its own issues. Your video is for an older model. I wish it was that easy.
Believe me, I thought of everything to try and fix this on my own but in the end, it is difficult to access and given the labor involved, it seems better to replace the whole part given it is available for ~$350, even on amazon. Hate to have to put the labor in twice. Even the dealer Mercedes one is made by the other company (Kayser?) so generic may be ok. It is an odd part so I can't imagine many generic companies wanting/needing to make this. Those that have had the part replaced have not had recurrent issues. I think fundamentally, the part is poorly designed given its numerous failures. The failure point may even be in the oil separator portion attached low on the engine. Hopefully, with it occurring more frequently now as cars get older, mechanics will get more familiar and possibly offer lower labor charges.
Believe me, I thought of everything to try and fix this on my own but in the end, it is difficult to access and given the labor involved, it seems better to replace the whole part given it is available for ~$350, even on amazon. Hate to have to put the labor in twice. Even the dealer Mercedes one is made by the other company (Kayser?) so generic may be ok. It is an odd part so I can't imagine many generic companies wanting/needing to make this. Those that have had the part replaced have not had recurrent issues. I think fundamentally, the part is poorly designed given its numerous failures. The failure point may even be in the oil separator portion attached low on the engine. Hopefully, with it occurring more frequently now as cars get older, mechanics will get more familiar and possibly offer lower labor charges.
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Alexander S (03-31-2021)
#49
That's not the same assembly as most W205. I have a 2015 C300 with a M274 2.0L 4 cyl engine and it looks like the picture I attached earlier. This setup may be for a different engine or different version/yr. If you post more details, it may be helpful to others.