You disable auto eco start/stop on the W205 by unclipping a single plug.
On your battery negative terminal, there is the usual big clamp. On the side of that clip is another clip, with a 2 prong plug.
This 2 wire plug is the auto start/stop system.
Simply unplug that system, and it disables and removes the whole start/stop nonsense.
This does not trigger a check engine light or anything like that. The system just literally no longer exists. You can reverse that by plugging it back in.
That's it. I ran my car for over a year this way, no issues.
This clip controls the variable charging rate from the alternator and having it disable will force your alternator to run 100% at all time even if battery is charged to full and won't trickle charge. Thus my increased load on the engine by 200 rpm.
If you don't want dead alternator or dead overcharged agm battery after warranty ends, better to use the eco button or purchase obd2 device or switch to individual mode like I been doing for past summer.
Last edited by stockbmw; Oct 5, 2020 at 06:34 PM.
This clip controls the variable charging rate from the alternator and having it disable will force your alternator to run 100% at all time even if battery is charged to full and won't trickle charge. Thus my increased load on the engine by 200 rpm.
If you don't want dead alternator or dead overcharged agm battery after warranty ends, better to use the eco button or purchase obd2 device or switch to individual mode like I been doing for past summer.
I would love to know how you determined it’s “idling 25% more”. More what, exactly? RPM? Engine hours? Get outta here 😆
anyways that doesn’t even make sense. The cars are built entirely without the system, then the system is added in some markets. It’s not even a Mercedes system, it’s Hyundai, and it’s the same one Jaguar uses.
on top of that, the AGM hasn’t used a battery in years. It’s a capacitor bank now. It’s fine. Disconnecting the system is fine. Sorry you wasted money on a Chinese dongle that does the same thing.
No loss of any other features like brake hold. No warning lights or error codes are triggered.
The only difference I've noticed is that, with the plug disconnected, there are no longer battery 'stats' being reported (current draw, rate of discharge, etc.) in the gauge cluster display when it is in service mode. This supports the story that disconnecting the plug puts the charging system into a "dumb" mode, but whether thats actually a bad thing remains unclear.
Simple trick is to reconnect the clip and see if your idle drops from 700 to 500. In your case xxx to 600. And think for a moment why increase in rpm?
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Last edited by Andy74; Oct 9, 2020 at 06:33 AM.
On your battery negative terminal, there is the usual big clamp. On the side of that clip is another clip, with a 2 prong plug.
This 2 wire plug is the auto start/stop system.
Simply unplug that system, and it disables and removes the whole start/stop nonsense.
This does not trigger a check engine light or anything like that. The system just literally no longer exists. You can reverse that by plugging it back in.
That's it. I ran my car for over a year this way, no issues.




1. Press ignition start button
2. Press start/stop button
It’s torture I’m telling ya! (sarcasm alert for anyone impaired)



Last edited by midcityeng; Mar 11, 2021 at 04:54 PM. Reason: Added picture.
On your battery negative terminal, there is the usual big clamp. On the side of that clip is another clip, with a 2 prong plug.
This 2 wire plug is the auto start/stop system.
Simply unplug that system, and it disables and removes the whole start/stop nonsense.
This does not trigger a check engine light or anything like that. The system just literally no longer exists. You can reverse that by plugging it back in.
That's it. I ran my car for over a year this way, no issues.
Last edited by stockbmw; May 18, 2024 at 07:41 PM.
There is also variant coding, some forum members are trying to figure out how to use it to enable ILS.




