I got a "Simoniz Random Orbit Polisher" as a present. I have never used a power tool like that. Is it safe and effective to remove the minor paint scratches or swirls? I'm afraid it will actually create swirls as opposed to remove them. Thought I would get your input. Thanks.

 

learning to properly detail you car is a great thing to learn, go on meguiars website or detailer domain,

steps are simple and satifying when u learn them

wash, dry, clay, polish if needed, and wax

 

Thanks. I know a lot of those things but not power tools. I do all of this by hand and my question was to get input on experience with power tools. Do you get a better result? Or is it just saving time?

 

not necessarily saving time, but u do get better results, esp if the paint is older, or has some old water drops, or fine scratches,

i dont know what your machine looks like but the ideal ones are the porter cable 7436 series.
professionals will probably go with rotary, but that takes some practice or else youll be going through paint

 

I made my education on autogeek.net. Lots of useful videos on different combinations of tools, pads and products. Now I know what I need (and I don't need the one I got as a present unfortunately).

 

I have a couple of them Dewalt and porter cable . A word of Advance ,,, watch videos on proper techniques and evaluating your paint surfaces , washing, claying if necessary and use the right car polishes and clear coat cleaners..Know your polishes and cleaners , waxes. The Main thing is practise your techniques on your less expensive cars and cars with swirls and faded paint.. If u make mistakes it doesnt matter as much compared to a 50 grand vehicle .Practise makes perfect you dont just wheel a car out like its nothing, the buffer will burn the clear coat and damage paint if used improperly . Badm
And buffers do perform a better job than hand polishing generally

 

Fortunate that you found out! I wouldnt know about your polisher but will reccomend a powerful DA - mains powered (all DAs are random orbit) with speed control.
As you have no exp with machine avoid a rotary (good ones are the trusty PC, makita, 3m(mine), festool, fein etc.) and go for a DA (-strikethrough very very unlikely on a new car unless one has a rare skill for destruction and is inattentive- you strike me as neither and are going about your reasearch well).

Megs mf system yields similar results. Otherwise for MB oem clear(quite hard) I use hexlogic pads with menzerna pf2500 and then 3000ff with finishing pad. Guessing you dont need a lot of correction otherwise a ptg is a good investment. I've foamed, bilberry rims, iron x body, fairy liquid washed to remove old wax, rinse, clayed, rinse leafblower drythen ipa wipe then opti coat 2.0(please research on correct application). lasting in polluted London over a year car not garaged. This is considered to be a LSP prep wash. Your choice of waxing or sealant.

My car is irridium silver and difficult to achieve depth and as I'm fairly time poor opted for the convenience of a sealant. I certainly can recommend opticoat. On a black cls such as yours, i'd go for a good wax for greater gloss and depth. of course this requires greater maintenance as defects will show more readily but will achive depth, gloss and 'wetness'.

good wash 2bm regime when time permits and contactless prevents future swirling/ rids - sorry about jargon but autogeek has it all. Also see detailingworld.

while there may be a lot of general well meaning advice, it is not that daunting if you have the correct tools. I have considered MB specific oem clear hardness, age of your vehicle and colour.

 

Thank you all of your input! Your comments are complementing well what I have been able to find by myself. It seems to be quite rewarding to do it yourself (especially with a black car). I'm getting keen to get equipped properly and start to have fun. Thanks again!