S/C shuts off - johnosn pump, private label H/E
I know this problem has been discussed here a billion, no - a zillion times, but mine is a tad different.
About 4-5 months ago, i ordered and installed Johnson's pump and Private Label Heat Exchanger which is being advertised here. The weather was too cold to try anything serious, but now it is warmer and i notice that after a few kick downs the S/C shuts off for a while and then everything gets back to normal.
So, what do i have to check? The pump? Or maybe the amount of liquid in the system?
That's some good advise you gave me, thanks. I will check if there is air in the system, the pump, iat and the fuse.
The combo was installed at the workshop, so I hope they'll fix it for free, if the problem is caused by the air.
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When guys at the workshop installed H/E and a pump, they said that they had hard time filling the system with air, as the intercooler circuit was separated from the main cooling system and didn't have any reservoir. I asked if it was custom made and they said that it came this way from factory and they used MB's software to check how exactly it was made by typing in my VIN number. So... The car was made in U.S.. Does anyone here own a car with a separated circuit?
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Some guys here with 55's do have a sep circuit - but it was done that way by them.
Do you have Schraeder valves (looks like an overgrown tire valve stem) near your IC? If so, you can press the stem on that to see if you get air or liquid. Be sure it's not the one on your fuel rail...
Should i look near the S/C or near the HE?
BTW, i just called to the workshop i used to install the combo and they said, that they had to fill the system via the nipple on the S/C, because when they had everything connected the water just wouldn't go into the system and later they found out that the car has separate circuit.
Should i look near the S/C or near the HE?
BTW, i just called to the workshop i used to install the combo and they said, that they had to fill the system via the nipple on the S/C, because when they had everything connected the water just wouldn't go into the system and later they found out that the car has separate circuit.
To be honest, I don't really know my way around the 55k engine. Here's where they are on my V12TT; the location won't help you, but maybe the look will. Post some pics (or pm them to me) and I'll try to help you find them.
I bought it as a used car and actually i don't know if it was modified by the original owner, because i bought it at a kind of auction. Interestingly, guys at the workshop say that there are different modifications of the car and one of them comes with a separate circuit.
I will post pics of the S/C to find out where those valves are located. So, do i just connect the hose and start the engine to bleed the system? What would be a good indicator that the system is bled - flowing liquid?
The schraeder valves, are just like a big tire valve stem. They have the same "core" to them also...that spring loaded "button". You can use a standard valve stem core removal tool to take that out for free flow. Otherwise, you'll just have to push it down with a screwdriver, etc...



