C32 AMG, C55 AMG (W203) 2001 - 2007

Need Advice on Adding More Power to HPS SC

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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 02:50 AM
  #501  
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Hi guys,

I always had some questions about SC a naturally aspirated car such a C43 and a C55. Those engines/transmissions/suspension etc are designed from the manufacturer for that particular horsepower.
- Isn't a SC going to mess up the engine and and transmission a lot sooner before its time?
- Isn't it true that the manufacturer will actually reenforce the engine of a SC car such as the C32 to be as reliable as a N/A engine?
- Why didn't they SC the C55 for example? It could have been a better strategy for them since it costs a lot more and it is as fast as the C32! Is it maybe because a supercharged C55 will have too much power for that chassis meaning that it wil be difficoult to hadle?

Take for example the Hartge H50 vs the stock M3 in this test comparison:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...15883&q=Hartge

The Hartge H50 is a great car but it apears that the extra HP makes it hard to handle.
BTW check this video of H50 in the manufacturer's webpage it is quite addictive. I wish that I can find similar test drives for the AMG vehicles.
http://www.hartge.de/video/hartgeh50e.avi
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 03:28 AM
  #502  
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Originally Posted by kchristos
Hi guys,

I always had some questions about SC a naturally aspirated car such a C43 and a C55. Those engines/transmissions/suspension etc are designed from the manufacturer for that particular horsepower.
- Isn't a SC going to mess up the engine and and transmission a lot sooner before its time?
- Isn't it true that the manufacturer will actually reenforce the engine of a SC car such as the C32 to be as reliable as a N/A engine?
- Why didn't they SC the C55 for example? It could have been a better strategy for them since it costs a lot more and it is as fast as the C32! Is it maybe because a supercharged C55 will have too much power for that chassis meaning that it wil be difficoult to hadle?
Powertrain parts are never made to operate at the upper end of their capacity, and most of the parts are not specifically designed for each particular chassis. The 5.5L engine can be found in several different chassis, and transmissions find their way into other models as well. Both the engines and transmission are able to handle much more power output than they come with from the factory.

I'll ask you a question - even if you're an aggressive driver, how often are you actually going to stand on the pedal? My guess is 10-15 percent of the time. The extra power doesn't even get used most of the time, and the small amount of time it actually is used isn't drastically going to shorten the lifespan of a properly maintained car (I'm assuming, of course that the supercharger is problem free and tuned to perfection).
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 03:52 AM
  #503  
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Originally Posted by AMGSC
I got a tip from Richard023 that I should upgrade the SC water and fuel pumps on the HPS unit. What capacity water and fuel pumps do the Kleemanns, Renntechs, Brabus or Carlsson's use? Just curious.

Has anyone installed boost gauges, fuel pressure gauges and AFR meters on their SC'd rides? I know that the boost gauge is important if you are running on 7.5-8lbs of boost but what about AFR and fuel pressure gauges. I'm having these installed next week but I don't if I should go through with it if they don't add any real value.
Upgrading would really depend on what hardware you are currently using! The low grade TEEL pump included on my kit was not in my favor, so I opt for a Bosch marine pump that could provide the adequate gpms. Here's what I mean:

TEEL vs Bosch


As for the fuel pump, I ran with the stock FP and installed a KB BAP 20 amp, but at the time I replaced the fuel filter so did the OEM FP to a Bosch 420LPH ( P/N 0580254044), this pump is thicker in Dia. and cannot utilized the OEM FP bracket. With either setup, FP was at a steady 60PSI.

I had a A/F gauge on the vette and removed it, I've never found it to make sense when I'm at WOT. Air/fuel moves around so much you'll never be able to tell if you're leaning out at 6500RPM or if you're leaning out when you let off the throttle at 6800RPM.

The only way I've ever made sense of air/fuel is using my laptop to log RPM vs. Boost vs. Air/fuel through a Zeitronix WB02.

If your game in using a 3 pod pillar, drop a EGT gauge instead.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 03:58 AM
  #504  
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Originally Posted by Richard023
Upgrading would really depend on what hardware you are currently using! The low grade TEEL pump included on my kit was not in my favor, so I opt for a Bosch marine pump that could provide the adequate gpms. Here's what I mean:
That TEEL pump looks exactly like the one in my car! I'm going to ask HPS to replace it. Does this add any horsepower?

So can you tell me the estimated parts and labor to replace both pumps with the ones you're recommending? Thanks in advance for the GREAT advice.

I'll take your advice and get a EGT instead of an AFR meter also.

Last edited by AMGSC; Feb 19, 2006 at 04:02 AM.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 04:47 AM
  #505  
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Originally Posted by AMGSC
That TEEL pump looks exactly like the one in my car! I'm going to ask HPS to replace it. Does this add any horsepower?

So can you tell me the estimated parts and labor to replace both pumps with the ones you're recommending? Thanks in advance for the GREAT advice.

I'll take your advice and get a EGT instead of an AFR meter also.

An efficient air-to-water intercooling system requires a proper heat exchanger assembly & water pump to cool the discharge temperatures. By keeping the air cool, the ignition timing will stay within optimal performance control limits. In my personal opinion, this aspect of their system design wasn't addressed enough by the HPS team. The importance here is not added HP but enduring less heat soak effect.

Before you jump the gun on replacing the parts, speak with HPS if they're keen on assisting with these upgrades. If I recall correctly the Bosch WP was $150 (BTW: The TEEL pump is $30), the Bosch FP is approx. $250. As for labor rates, it varies, perhaps Jim can provide you with a quote.

I only suggested the EGT gauge if you were to use a 3 pod pillar, however the 2 pod boost & FP gauge should provide sufficient monitoring unless you decide to use N20 in the future.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 09:36 AM
  #506  
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Originally Posted by AMGSC
I got a tip from Richard023 that I should upgrade the SC water and fuel pumps on the HPS unit. What capacity water and fuel pumps do the Kleemanns, Renntechs, Brabus or Carlsson's use? Just curious.

Has anyone installed boost gauges, fuel pressure gauges and AFR meters on their SC'd rides? I know that the boost gauge is important if you are running on 7.5-8lbs of boost but what about AFR and fuel pressure gauges. I'm having these installed next week but I don't if I should go through with it if they don't add any real value.
I have an HKS EGT guage and I use a LM1 AFR guage in my car.I think knowing your AFR is more important than knowing the exh gas temp.I highly reccommend you getiing one(AFR). Here are two good examples and they wrk perfect when custom tuning the car:http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/xd16.php and I would read the complete website.I use the LM1 data logger to tune my 413whp car.I had a wide band O2 sensor installed in my AMG so that I can datalog the AFR in my AMG when custom tuning the SW.Next week I plan on doing some dyno tuning by the way.I'm not happy with m mph in the 1/4mile and I think it has to do with the fuel at the topend.This is why the AFR is very very important to know at all times imop. Another good unit to use for AFR and I also recommend highly is AEM's Uego wideband AFR.:http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/a...ler/universal/ I highly recommend either of the items over an EGT.If your AFR is good under boost on the dyno thru the whole rpm range,chances are your EGT's are going to be safe ,low and acceptable. Yes I have both EGT and Afr guages but I always look at the AFR and hardly ever evr look at my EGT's under full boost.21psi to be exact.I now have a fully built motor that will theoretically make 550+awhp without breaking with 950cc inj, I will install when the weather is favorable here in NY.With my laptop,and the help of my trusty wideband AFR guage I'll be able to tune my beast on the fly as well as on an in house dyno with an AFR reading.

Last edited by ProjectC55; Feb 19, 2006 at 10:00 AM.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 01:13 PM
  #507  
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Man...You are a serious tuner! Do you own a shop on the side? I thought Vadim was the only "hands on" expert but I was wrong. You and Richard really know your sh#t. Thanks again.
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Old Feb 19, 2006 | 01:21 PM
  #508  
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Originally Posted by kchristos
Hi guys,

I always had some questions about SC a naturally aspirated car such a C43 and a C55. Those engines/transmissions/suspension etc are designed from the manufacturer for that particular horsepower.
- Isn't a SC going to mess up the engine and and transmission a lot sooner before its time?
- Isn't it true that the manufacturer will actually reenforce the engine of a SC car such as the C32 to be as reliable as a N/A engine?
- Why didn't they SC the C55 for example? It could have been a better strategy for them since it costs a lot more and it is as fast as the C32! Is it maybe because a supercharged C55 will have too much power for that chassis meaning that it wil be difficoult to hadle?
There are quite a few SC'd C55s on this forum including DragonAMG (Kleemann), BennyZ (Renntech) and me (HPS). I still have excellent control of the vehicle when acclerating hard or cornering. The only slight problem is the traction when I accelerate from a standstill. The wheels tend to spin but that was true in the stock C55 as well. The Quaife LSD that I am installing will take car of that. DragonAMG tracks his car all the time and has listed his time-slips. BennyZ has NOS on his car and hasn't wiped out yet so I think it's safe. The stock C55 tranny can handle 600rwp according to Vadim with no problems.
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 09:01 PM
  #509  
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so? what's the update?
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 10:51 PM
  #510  
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Originally Posted by Josh K
so? what's the update?
Car feels very strong but got check engine light. 1st time was overload on tranny codes, 2nd time was running too rich on banks 1 and 2 codes 720, 724 I think I recall. On cold mornings car stutters for a split second when accelerating hard into fast lane from FWY onramp. Could be fuel being too rich, could be exhaust getting choked, don't know for sure. They are looking into it. Odd thing about it is that Gas Mileage is incredible at 27.5-28.0 when cruising on FWY for 30-40 miles. Tranny downshifting still not corrected yet. Need to correct to maximize next dyno results.

Am having car retuned and dyno'd at independent shop in next few days. Who do recommend for installation of gauges (boost, fuel pressure, EGT, AFR) on center console or window pillar at reasonable prices?
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Old Feb 21, 2006 | 11:35 PM
  #511  
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Amgsc

Sounds like you are making progress. Sorry to hear about the tranny and the small glitches, you are having.
I will be porting out my intake pipe that goes to my supercharger this week. I'm hoping to get more flow so I won't have to spin the superchager faster. Last week I re-installed the blower, becasue I had a all new rotor and bearings installed. The cars feels much faster and quieter, I'm guessing I have an extra 15whp and an even 5lbs of boost. The Aquamist chemical cooler is next to keep the heat under control, I'm sure it will help because my car has been running incredible with the cold weather lately. The Aquatmist should lower the intake temps by 40-50 degrees.
So far my biggest problems are warped rotors and rear tires only lasting 2 months
I will be headed down to your area next week, maybe a friendly race is needed.
Mario

Last edited by E55Cent; Feb 22, 2006 at 12:00 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:02 AM
  #512  
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Originally Posted by E55Cent
I will be porting out my intake pipe that goes to my supercharger this week. I'm hoping to get more flow so I won't have to spin the superchager faster. Last week I re-installed the blower, becasue I had a all new rotor and bearings installed. The cars feels much faster and quieter, I'm guessing I have an extra 15whp and an even 5lbs of boost. The Aquatmist chemical cooler is next to keep the heat under control, if sure it will help because my car has been running incredible with the cold weather lately. The Aquatmist should lower the intake temps by 40-50 degrees.
So far my biggest problems are warped rotors and rear tires only lasting 2 months
I will be headed down to your area next week, maybe a friendly race is needed.
Mario
Sounds good. I guess I can't port the intake being that it's a Gen II. Does Magnuson warranty the warped rotors and broken bearings? What could be causing your rotor and bearing problems? I heard from Adam that installing aquamist will void my HPS warranty. Is there a chance that Aquamist can hurt the engine or supercharger?
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 02:16 AM
  #513  
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Originally Posted by AMGSC
Sounds good. I guess I can't port the intake being that it's a Gen II. Does Magnuson warranty the warped rotors and broken bearings? What could be causing your rotor and bearing problems? I heard from Adam that installing aquamist will void my HPS warranty. Is there a chance that Aquamist can hurt the engine or supercharger?
Maggie does warranty their stuff but HPS didn't. I only had my blower about 200 miles when the rear bearings of the blower blew up. My kit was partly used but it came with a 12 month warranty. Adam said he could help me but I would have to bring the blower to him. 120miles each way. My E55 is my only car so that was a no, for me. Magnusun is only 2 miles from my house, so I took it there and it was fixed in one day for $280 and I asked Adam to only pay half, but he said very nicely, "I'm sorry Mario, but my hands are tied". The second and third time Magna replaced everything for free (great company)

I have only heard good things about Aquamist and other Chemcial cooler kits. It is a simple system that has been around for decades, even used in supercharged 1940 airplanes. I have about 10 friends that are using chemical coolers and the only thing I hear is praise. Three of them stopped using 100 octane gas because the Aquamist solved the detation problems they were having. 100 octane fuel is very expensive if you haven't used it. What about the headers and cams you want, won't those void the HPS warranty? Is HPS going to do the ECU tunning when you get the cams?

Last edited by E55Cent; Feb 22, 2006 at 02:19 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 02:37 AM
  #514  
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Originally Posted by AMGSC
I heard from Adam that installing aquamist will void my HPS warranty. Is there a chance that Aquamist can hurt the engine or supercharger?
If you have access to good fuel and the tune is kept in check, why bother running the risk of voiding your HPS warranty. I personally didn't care much for the warranty! Maybe just throw in a bottle of Torco now and then.

I seem to recall a Magnacharger tech saying that using straight methanol can destroy the rotor coating in due time. If the coating is destroyed then unit gets louder, but more importantly tolerances are lost and pump slips more thus you loose some boost. This is if you spray/inject at inlet. I used Manhattan Oil Top Lube that contains corrosion prevention properties while using methanol. Incidentally, Aquamist does not recommend spraying straight meth.,the seals on the sensor grommets will not last.

Mario - No doubt the Aquamist is a great product, but also look into East Coast Superchargers (ECS) Alky kit, it uses SS pressure lines vs nylon, includes a LED (red to green when it senses pressure in the line), competitve price....overall I'm happier with this kit than the Aquamist!
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 05:43 AM
  #515  
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Originally Posted by Richard023
If you have access to good fuel and the tune is kept in check, why bother running the risk of voiding your HPS warranty. I personally didn't care much for the warranty! Maybe just throw in a bottle of Torco now and then.

I seem to recall a Magnacharger tech saying that using straight methanol can destroy the rotor coating in due time. If the coating is destroyed then unit gets louder, but more importantly tolerances are lost and pump slips more thus you loose some boost. This is if you spray/inject at inlet. I used Manhattan Oil Top Lube that contains corrosion prevention properties while using methanol. Incidentally, Aquamist does not recommend spraying straight meth.,the seals on the sensor grommets will not last.

Mario - No doubt the Aquamist is a great product, but also look into East Coast Superchargers (ECS) Alky kit, it uses SS pressure lines vs nylon, includes a LED (red to green when it senses pressure in the line), competitve price....overall I'm happier with this kit than the Aquamist!
Hey Rich,
I was looking at a company called CoolMist, for my porject. My buddy Craig uses this kit on his 500whp SRT-4 (26psi). I will only be spraying with the flow of the air and after the supercharger. I was going to use 10%meth and 90% distilled water in the window washer tank.
I did have a question about the stock window washer tank. Since I have headlight washers on my car. The washer tank has two metal lines running through it from the radiator to keep the water heated. My question is did you have any problems bypassing this? I don't want my meth/distilled mix to be extra heated.

Last edited by E55Cent; Feb 22, 2006 at 05:46 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 12:34 PM
  #516  
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My guess would be to remove and plug the lines :0)
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 03:02 PM
  #517  
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Originally Posted by AMGSC
Car feels very strong but got check engine light. 1st time was overload on tranny codes, 2nd time was running too rich on banks 1 and 2 codes 720, 724 I think I recall. On cold mornings car stutters for a split second when accelerating hard into fast lane from FWY onramp. Could be fuel being too rich, could be exhaust getting choked, don't know for sure. They are looking into it. Odd thing about it is that Gas Mileage is incredible at 27.5-28.0 when cruising on FWY for 30-40 miles. Tranny downshifting still not corrected yet. Need to correct to maximize next dyno results.

Am having car retuned and dyno'd at independent shop in next few days. Who do recommend for installation of gauges (boost, fuel pressure, EGT, AFR) on center console or window pillar at reasonable prices?

The exhaust should not be causing the sputterring unless something was drastically clogged. It would only limit the power, if everything is really tuned & running properly.

Also, have you manually verified this MPG reading, or is this what your on board computer is telling you? If it's the OBC, I wouldn't believe it. Larger injectors, the s/c and everything you've had done, will let you cruise by on less throttle & has likely completely thrown out the window the calibration the factory did to estimate fuel mileage. Check it manually to be sure.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 07:00 PM
  #518  
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Originally Posted by AMGSC
Car feels very strong but got check engine light. 1st time was overload on tranny codes, 2nd time was running too rich on banks 1 and 2 codes 720, 724 I think I recall. On cold mornings car stutters for a split second when accelerating hard into fast lane from FWY onramp. Could be fuel being too rich, could be exhaust getting choked, don't know for sure. They are looking into it. Odd thing about it is that Gas Mileage is incredible at 27.5-28.0 when cruising on FWY for 30-40 miles. Tranny downshifting still not corrected yet. Need to correct to maximize next dyno results.

Am having car retuned and dyno'd at independent shop in next few days. Who do recommend for installation of gauges (boost, fuel pressure, EGT, AFR) on center console or window pillar at reasonable prices?
Check the plugs they may be fouled.Car sounds like it's running very very rich at idle and the onset of boost.This could also be ,like I said a sign of bad plugs after all this trial and error.Sputter,sputter sputter! Check that first!Clean new set of plugs can make a world of a difference.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 07:09 PM
  #519  
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Originally Posted by rbaker
Also, have you manually verified this MPG reading, or is this what your on board computer is telling you? If it's the OBC, I wouldn't believe it. Larger injectors, the s/c and everything you've had done, will let you cruise by on less throttle & has likely completely thrown out the window the calibration the factory did to estimate fuel mileage. Check it manually to be sure.
I would agree with RBAKER. I remember when I added cams to my M3 with HFM, software and larger injectors that my MPG read wrong. The stock OBC couldn't communicate with the new motor software and injectors. There is a chance you are getting the MPG's the computer is saying but I would check for yourself, the old school way.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 10:46 PM
  #520  
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Bought an engine today...

Found an outrageous deal on a w220 S500 engine w/49k miles on her also comes w/6month warranty It'll be swapped in this time next month @ Mechtech and we'll see what an S500 (no more S430 bye bye bye....) w/all these new HPS upgrades can put down to the rear wheels

Motor cost $3000 + my core exchange + install labor @/MT $2200
Totals $5200
Modding value to me priceless, I luv HorsePower
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 10:52 PM
  #521  
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Originally Posted by thericker55
Found an outrageous deal on a w220 S500 engine w/49k miles on her also comes w/6month warranty It'll be swapped in this time next month @ Mechtech and we'll see what an S500 (no more S430 bye bye bye....) w/all these new HPS upgrades can put down to the rear wheels

Motor cost $3000 + my core exchange + install labor @/MT $2200
Totals $5200
Modding value to me priceless, I luv HorsePower


Some how, I thought you told me, you're getting the 55 engine? That's I asked you why it was so cheap. It mine be just cheaper if you bore and stroke it out.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 10:56 PM
  #522  
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Originally Posted by Clk&Slk
Some how, I thought you told me, you're getting the 55 engine? That's I asked you why it was so cheap. It mine be just cheaper if you bore and stroke it out.
lol I wish!!
No this will work fine I asked Jim (@ Mcdonalds hehe..) about this and this is by far the better route...
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 11:11 PM
  #523  
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Originally Posted by thericker55
lol I wish!!
No this will work fine I asked Jim (@ Mcdonalds hehe..) about this and this is by far the better route...
Congrats on the new motor!!! Horsepower is a powerful drug. I will cross my fingers for you that you make mad HP & TQ. Do you think it will be done in time for dyno day? Don't forget the headers since the motor will be out of the car.
Show down at the O.K. Corral.
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Old Feb 22, 2006 | 11:19 PM
  #524  
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Originally Posted by E55Cent
Congrats on the new motor!!! Horsepower is a powerful drug. I will cross my fingers for you that you make mad HP & TQ. Do you think it will be done in time for dyno day? Don't forget the headers since the motor will be out of the car.
Show down at the O.K. Corral.
I can only hope it will that would be perfect timing.. Mcdonalds will have my car for at least 1 week probably 2 will see
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Old Feb 23, 2006 | 01:05 AM
  #525  
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From: SFV, Ca.
W210, W220, W163, W164, C6
Originally Posted by E55Cent
Hey Rich,
I was looking at a company called CoolMist, for my porject. My buddy Craig uses this kit on his 500whp SRT-4 (26psi). I will only be spraying with the flow of the air and after the supercharger. I was going to use 10%meth and 90% distilled water in the window washer tank.
I did have a question about the stock window washer tank. Since I have headlight washers on my car. The washer tank has two metal lines running through it from the radiator to keep the water heated. My question is did you have any problems bypassing this? I don't want my meth/distilled mix to be extra heated.
I've seen the Cooling Mist deluxe kit on a Cobra SVT and I like the idea with the nozzle clog sensor & Vari-Cool controller, a local shop (B&D Racing) is a distributor. I hear CM and Snow Performance are popular setups amongst the Mustang & SRT-4 crowds. Hey, I still have that video of your friendly run (pre- HPS) against Craig's SRT-4... HEET (yellow bottle) also works well for mixture, and the dual lines can easily be plugged.

Sean - Nice catch on the S500 motor, so I guess the C6 project is put on hold...I do hope in the future you come to your senses and switch over to the side.
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