Thanks Rich for one of the best advice but how and where do I go to have this boost guage installed and approx. how much? Will it interefere with any other electronics?

Do you have any suggestions on how to cool the car down? I've heard Mist but it sounds a bit crazy. Won't the moisture cause the engine components to rust?

I will definitely give Mech Tech (Jim and/or Travis) a call. I did'nt know that they even had a hand in the design either.

BTW. Did anyone have a hard time installing the Lorinser Roof Spoiler on
a C55? I ordered one from Eurotech (Neal) and the antenna hole seems to be too small. Just curious.

 

I'm quite certain Jim and his crew @ Mech Tech is up for the task in installing a boost & fuel pressure gauge (you really need both), the HPS system runs on the lean side, at least mine did....so it's imperative you don't starve the fuel rails. Being that your dealing with HPS, it's not advisable to jump from one tuner to another and then another...it's risky business. Your in So Cal., and if Mech Tech is too much of a drive, Ralph at RBTech from my understanding is a recommend HPS installer, pls confirm with Adam or the HPS team.

A dual pod should cost around ($50), I had my pod custom-match upolstered to my A pillar ($225), Autometer vac/boost ($75), Autometer fuel pressure gauge ($260), installation ($200-250). The numbers can go deeper into your pocket as you get into the higher-end gauges. Also, I've never had any issues with electronic interference on both the E430 or the Vette. I can email you a picture of my setup if you like, or Mario (E55cent) can post a picture of his...if he ever stops lagging and gets it installed!

I used the Aquamist 1s with good results in combo with upgraded cooling hardware, the only tedious issue with the 1s is calibrating the pressure switch to spray at your desired PSI, factory set is at 3PSI. I suggest you do your homework and research if your unsure with the water/methanol injection idea. I was constantly on the mustang forums, not becuz I was a big Ford fan, but those guys heavy modded their SVT Eatons; NOS, ported blower, alky injection. The Vette guys are in the same boat with their MP112s too. Also, your not limited to Aquamist; Cooling Mist, Snow Performance, Alky Control are a few vendors.

Here's a water injection forum that may interest you, Richard Lamb (inventor of Aquamist) is a member and brings his 2 cents.

http://www.waterinjection.info/phpBB2/

OK...it's late and I'm ranting!!!

Good Luck

 

I saw your car at the auto show, it is a beaut! Great car, can't wait to see what your plans are for it!

 

I think the advise of cams and ecu is not really the best.

You posted a dyno sheet with A/F it clearly that its is mostly under 12:1. The HPS GEN II using a piggy computer to modify for A/F and also reduce timing. If you get a computer you will mostly ruin your A/F and possibly damage your motor. Tuning for NA motor and blown motor is completely different. Most ECU that do exist for the C55 is for NAd are only applications.

Now if you could get a completely reprogrammed ECU that had different target A/F in open loop, and had it retard your timing, and remove your speed limitor and etc that would be great.

IF you make any changes you can always have a reputed shop modify the piggy box to insure properly operation.

Now we talked about more boost and etc and this where effective compression ratio is used. The formula is ((boost pressure/14.7)+1)*Static Compression Ratio.
For say running 7.5 PSI
((7.5/14.7)+1)*11=16.6:1 Effective compression ratio
Now for reference its not uncommon to see say 17PSI on a 8.5:1 compression ratio car
((17/14.7)+1)*8.5=18.3 effective

Personally I run 20PSI on 93 octane in a turbo charged applications. And 25PSI with water injection and etc. Which ends up witha very aggressive effective compression ratio. Not something I would recommend for a supercharged application atleast not with some metering of air intake temps, Cylinder head temps, and etc.

For reference I would be aggresive and run 10PSI which would be ((10/14.7)+1)*11=18.47 pretty much the same as a boosted car.

Now I don't recommend anything much higher than that. Domed pistons used on NA applications versus dished used have different heat properties.

Lastly a cam is the heart of engine performance anyone who attempts to tell you different is mistaken. Now the question becomes is there a properly designed cam for a supercharged application? I am not sure but if you are in the business of performance certain cams produce different results. Engine dyno simulators used by people in the business will give them a baseline as to what to use. Cams are of the biggest secrets in performance and in theory could make an engine. So if you want to try a cams go for it tho I could not recommend you which ones to try as I have no specs on any them.

 

thats some great numbers!!! congrats!

 

don't forget our engine are high compression. 11:1

don't get carried away with the boost.

 

If anyone has pics of AMGSC's C55 from the auto show, please post pics.

Thanks

 

I've been reading about the various LSD's availble and have made up my mind that the Quaife ATB LSD is the best based on the forum feedback. Does anyone agree or disagree? I know Kleeman, Brabus, Renntech and even AMG has an LSD but I read that the Quaife has a fully variable lockup.

Does anyone have an updated availability schedule? Where can I place my order? Through EVOSPORT? or some other dealer or directly with Quaife? What does the dealer offer besides a mark-up? Will they provide additional warranties or installation assistance?

 

the last time i spoke with quaife the word was lsd's would be ready late feb/early march

i have ordered mine direct from quaife but
so far i have had no word on a fixed price or completion date so i will contact them again early next week to try and get an update on progress

 

I spoke to someone who said they just saw the car. It appears that the s/c is a stock eaton unit with a custom CNC'd top cover bolted into the same eaton holes. What is the difference with their s/c?

 

Why does everyone refer to the Eaton as an old unit that is inefficient?

Based on what I've read and after speaking to some engineers this unit MP112 is radically different from the old roots blowers. Please go to the Eaton website and read about this unit.

The claims about the inefficiency of roots blower should not apply to the MP112 with all of it's changes. You can see from my dynos that I easily gained 147bhp with a green engine WITHOUT ANY other upgrades. This car was dynoed on a warm day in Escondido, CA with no super-cooling fans or high octane gas.

When I read about overheating concerns with the Eaton unit I called Adam at HPS and he reminded me to look at the HPS Picture Gallery where it cleary shows that not only does the SC have a ultra heavy duty intercooler but ALSO a seperate HEAT EXCHANGER for duel cooling effects. The fans are also reprogrammed to kick on as a third backup although rarely if ever needed. If the temperature still creeps up after the upgrade then I will inquire with HPS about mist sprays and such.

By the time I get the car back from HPS after the show. They will add another pulley kit, larger fuel injectors, K&N filters,reprogrammed ECU and other "proprietary engine mods" that should result in a difference between "Night and Day" according to their chief engineer and his tuner experts. In fact there is another CLK 55 of theirs that had these similar things done and is much much more powerful than my car according to Bill. He also assured me that these upgrades are absolutely safe and there are no risks at all to my engine.

I am expecting/hoping for a minimum of another 50bhp :v which is reasonable considering that the car only had 600 miles on when I first dyno'd it. I will have all these upgrades completed by the end of January and hope to post my new dyno's from Mechtech a week later along with videos of Bill, Adam, Mechtech's owner Jim and I test-driving it after the dyno. After I install a set of Quaife LSD's I will then take it to track and post some times (0-60, quarter mile, etc...).

 

This all sounds very good and promising to me.

 

I have no problem with the Eaton unit. Just saying it is probably not a modified unit, but a stock blower and that's fine. I saw another C55 with this same blower on it and the air boxes and splitter were so high that the hood neeeded to be pounded with a hammer to make it all fit and there were still impact marks on the air boxes in multiple places where the hood touched. Maybe this was a prototype unit on this car. The air boxes were also spray painted mat black. I assume your installation is neater and does not have these problems. Very impressive hp gains. An interesting alternative.

 

what about rods? heat rap, heat shield, weight removeal?

 

Dude......for the very last time !!! HPS changed the fmu, injectors..etc !!! Just look at the power band and air fuel ratio... ..IT BEAUTIFUL !!!

 

I spoke with another owner of C55 HPS in the Los Angeles area and he told me that the ONLY thing he did was remove the resonator and replace the straight pipes to 2 1/2" from the stock 2" and got an additional 179 HP! The total cost was only $500. As a matter of fact he is going to take me to the same muffler shop that did the job on his.

He did not add anything else since I called him Friday and asked. He is also waiting on the results of my HPS pulley kit, larger injector and ECU upgrade which add another 2 lbs if boost (Currently running 5lbs yielding +147 HP) We both want to add the headers and possibly camshafts. I am probably going with additional cooling even though Brandon nor HPS felt it was necessary.They fine with the intercooler and heat exchanger but have modified the fan to turn on at a lower temperature setting (10 F earlier). I am paying him a visit since he lives only 20 miles away from me this week.

Here are his dynos.

 

Let us know what happens. I would guess removing the resenator would give you maybe 5hps and make the car louder but not 32hps. I'm guessing his car just has more power than your with or with out the resenator. I removed my res and I didn't notice one ounce of power gain, but it does make a nice rumble.
I'm really interested in your new kit with the extra 2lbs of boost.
Take care

 

AMGSC - How many pounds is the kit currently pushing?

Now you need to get your car to the track and see what it will run. I believe I hold the title with an 11.997 @ 117 on street tires.

I'm hitting the track again this friday with my new Mickey Thompson drag radials... guessing I'll probably run an 11.6... we'll see.

 

droppin this much might as well get a e55 with low miles

 

yeah, if you want a much bigger car...

 

yeah thats the downside!

 

I think you might get some competition from this Brandon guy and maybe even my self when I'm ready. Once again he told me that he did NOT install any headers. He just had a muffler shop cut off the straight pipes running underneath the cut and replaced them with a 1/2 wider diameter pipes and removed the resonator. He only spent less than $600 so it can't be headers which cost alot more. I am going to see him and the car sometime this week and verify if he is B.S'ing or not but I doubt he is lying.

 

If that is the case than the HPS system is putting down more power than the Kleemann system. I have the complete Kleemann package with the exception of the cams... my car is putting down 450 rwhp.

I don't know if you've ever seen the inside of a c55 resonator, but it is straight thru. Replacing it with a straight pipe shouldn't make a single shred of hp.

You never did answer my question - how much boost is the HPS s/c running?

 

I am currently running at 5 lbs of boost.(See previous post). I don't know how Brandon does it with just cutting out the straight pipes either but I'll find out in person when I meet him. He actually wanted me to see what he did and offered to take me to the muffler shop to get it done. Can you do me favor and post your latest dynos? I'd like to see your A/F Ratio compared to his.

 

Dragon is right about the OEM resenator. I really don't see how the other car can make more HP's just with having the res removed. I did mine and it only cost me $75.00 at a muffler shop and I gained no power. BTW $600 seems way too high, just to add straight pipe. I wouldn't pay more than $150