boohooramblers

'PeterTheFish' !! - awesome name! Do you drink a lot?

Seriously though - thanks for the information. Do you by any chance know what the rpm limit is for this bearing?
Any chance you can ask them when you order?

[Edit] Just saw this guy's thread - he's selling the DAC32550023 bearing.

l3iGD

I found a place out of California that I found mine ~6 months ago. I will try and find them again.

PeterTheFish

Thanks BooHoo! I've been known to enjoy the occasional frosty beverage which is definately where the name comes from.

I'm actually hoping I can order via phone w/ Houston Bearing. If not, I will definately check the speed rating on these. But I think that in the absence of an OEM bearing, I'm going to have to be content with these being a wearable part.

I did see the other thread, but don't run K&N's so it's about $100 of stuff I don't need...

PeterTheFish

So I confirmed this morning that the S/C bearing is indeed failing, and taking the two nearby idlers with it. Oddly, the S/C bearing is relatively quiet, but it has a pretty substantial amount of play in it.

I did call Houston Bearing and placed an order for a couple of the DACs to be overnighted - had to send in credit card details via email () which I'm not a big fan of, but it is what it is. Hopefully I'll get this and the two pulleys taken care of early next week, in time for my cross country sprint to the East coast - weary of running 14 hours at a time on a dying bearing...

c32used

Hey the original pics and videos are not showing repost links and pictures please.

c32used

c32used

Thanks for the info

I have a new SC pulley since late 2008 so no need to replace but good to see its available and easy to change.

1qikctr

I need to change mine again... car hit 70k now.

jturkel

are there any tell-tale signs or certain sounds I should be looking for or listening for to determine if the bearing is going bad?

also, where exactly does this bearing go? it isnt actually on the s/c pulley is it?

FrankW

ignore the exhaust note, the loud grind you hear in my video is the bearing went bad.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LAcmJ...eature=channel

the rest, just scroll up.

steve_bris

I replaced the SC bearing yesterday but havent started the car yet as I dropped the guide pulley and broke the plastic ..... doh. getting a new one tomorrow.

So is it ok if the SC clutch and the clutch plate touch a tiny little bit when I spin them, and I mean only a tiny little bit .... will they find the correct position after it is engaged a few times ?

TemjinX2

there should be some shims that were there keeping a very thin distance so they dont touch. they should not touch, you might have misplaced one when you took it off.

steve_bris

Hmmmmm, I left all the shims on the shaft. The clutch definatly spins freely, it is just the tiniest touch .... should I try and get another shim, or start it and it will readjust itself by like a tenth of a millimeter when it is engaged ?

TemjinX2

code3 directions state there should at least be a .20-.30mm distance.

http://www.code3performance.com/C32/...y_install.html

I would try to find another shim.

heyamgslk

I have a 2002 SLK32, just checking but this is the same powertrain (thus same bearing part number) as the C32's you are discussing?

I am 99.9% sure it is the clutch bearing. Anything above 1800 RPM (in drive) and the supercharger is quiet and sounds great. In park or reverse, if I rev it up the noise remains since the clutch on the SC doesn't engage in Park or Reverse.

I am hoping to make this about a $20 bearing and find a shop to press the bearing out for another $50.00 versus pay a repairshop $1150 for the replacement SC Clutch Pulley!! I have seen Code3 makes a performance pulley for $600 and someone claimed swapping it out was 15 minutes?!? Is it that easy to take this pulley/clutch assembly off?

02C32guy

Yes, code 3 does make a pulley for that and it is that easy to swap. The first time, it might be more like half an hour. You can also get the bearing here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-M...#ht_602wt_1165

It's 50 bucks and he had it to my door in two days. The machine shop down the road from me pressed the old one out and the new one in for $10.

60n5pt1

So you're saying you have a stock pulley and think it's the bearing. If you stop the clutch (not the pulley) from spinning the pulley bearing will keep turning and if it still makes noise, that's the problem.
The Nachi and the Houston Bearing are about $27.00 total. I'd get the NSK (Japan and not China made) for $50.00 total.

You will need help when turning the Belt tensioner counterclockwise to loosen the belt. Someone to turn the belt tensioner as you slip the belt off and vice versa. You will need the proper tools, torx wrenches.
Plan on replacing this bearing every 40K miles if you're lucky.
I got my trusted mechanic 'Jose' to remove and press fit the bearing for $5.00.
This DIY should not take more than 45 minutes unless you end up breaking stuff in the process.

heyamgslk

Thanks 60n5pt1;

So you do recommend the $50.00 NSK (OEM) over the 32BG05S1-2DST Nachi from BearingsDirect.com? I do have Male Torx's for my ratchet, but I need to get some torx sockets (but I need to have those anyway if I plan to work on German cars).

Can I ask another stupid question. Where is the belt tensioner? I wonder if it is the same location on the SLK32 as the C32. I thought I would loosen the torx on the alternator to create slack in the belt. I am assuming once I have some slack in the belt, I hold the clutch housing next to the supercharger from spinning and loosen the standard hex-head bolt on the center of the pulley and then I can slide the whole clutch/pulley assembly straight forward. I can see a bearing retaining ring on the OD of the bearing (pulley) and the press fit that I will need the shop to do is on the id that bolts to the SC. Right?

Thanks.

02C32guy

I've never needed two people to do it, Just use your right had to turn the tensioner pulley to take tension off the belt and slip the belt of with the other hand. You'll see, the hex bolt on the tensioner doesn't loosen, The whole pulley moves. As for the bearing /retaining ring etc, it will be obvious when you get it off. Attached is the directions for the Code 3 pulley. The same thing holds true for the stock pulley.

heyamgslk

Thanks... Yes, I found a video that shows which pulley is the tensioner at:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...er-pulley.html

My tensioner is a torx not a hex, but I will have someone around if I need a third hand. Guess I might need to put this off till next weekend if I am going to order the $50 one from the ebay seller in Taiwan, I was going to get the Nachi one from a local guy for $28 plus tax. Just got back from Sears with my set of "external" torx sockets since previously I only had the standard torx heads for my rachets from doing a brake job on it a few months ago.

02C32guy

Yeah, hex was a mistype. All the sizes you need are in the attachment above. I don't have an E11, so i either use an e10 or e12 (I forget which) for the tensioner. It works fine for me without any stripping.

jayitx

Hey guys,

I removed my SC pulley and noticed something that doesn't look right. In the picture below, there seems to be some plastic rings missing. Does anyone know where I can get these? I'm sure I've driven the car without them for a while, so what damage could them missing potentially cause?

Thanks!

heyamgslk

Just a quick thanks to all that helped answer my questions. I got the bearing from BearingsDirect.com, the external Torx sockets from Sears and found a local automotive machine shop open on Saturday that pressed the bearing out and put the new one in for $12.00. Just completed this $1400 (replacing whole bearing assembly with labor) to $500 (to get a mechanic to pull the pulley and replace the bearing like I just did) by myself for $58.00 including the torx sockets I now have. You guys just helped me save $500 to $1300!!!! Great website! The only problem I had was getting the pulley off without a wheel puller... think I will use my savings and go down to Harbor Freight and buy me a wheel puller for the next time I have a use for one.

She's purring like a kitten now at idle. Thanks again!

02C32guy

Just buy a rubber banded oil filter wrench. Works like a dream. Something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-Pc-...#ht_801wt_1165

c32jet

Replacing my SC bearing tonight. It is on there pretty good. Should this thing slide off or can I wedge it off by sticking a screw driver in between the pulley and the clutch? Is there a trick to getting it off? Yes, I have the bolt, clip ring and washer off. Thx.