I've put a couple of days on the springs, and overall I am very happy.

Appearance: It is an absolute MUST to install the rear springs with the MB #4 (tallest) rear spring shims in order to achieve a relatively even ride height drop front-to-back. With the tallest spacers, the front fender gap (tire to lip) is still a bit more than the rear, and in a perfect world, I would want it evened up. (I wish there was a #5 shim!). As I thought, the lowered car looks longer and sleeker. (Pics soon.)

Ride: The ride is noticeably firmer, but by no means harsh. Sharp bumps are soaked up gently, and longer humps and dips are handled more swiftly with a lot less float and reaction time. The ride is simply more "serious" and less luxurious. I used the stock shocks and I don't regret it.

Handling: The real test will be next week at the track, but so far, it's pretty clear that turn-in is sharper, and the car stays flatter. I feel that it is a good compromise -- any better for the track would degrade street use. I'm not expecting any change in the relentless understeer, but that's impossible to tell on the street on cold tires. We'll see what kind of speed I can hold through the uphill "S" turns at VIR!

TireRack did a comparison of H&R Sports, Eibach and OEM springs, and the H&R and Eibach were very, very similar. I have to confess that I was influenced by price (H&Rs were cheap), but I have no regrets.

how much did the spring pads run you?

Cheap. $20 for both.

Thanks for your thorough report.

Certainly, a rather substantial improvement in overall vehicle feel. An excellent modification for the investment. Don’t know how many hours your technicians billed, (none of my business) but I’m pleased you are satisfied with the results. Did my install in the garage, therefore the ~$240 for springs was easy to rationalize. For me, it’s good therapy.

Prudent of you to source and specify the #4 pads prior to the installation. Because I had previously shared with the forum a heads up about the potential lack of rear suspension jounce travel with the #52732 H&Rs, I don’t want you to think I’m a nattering nabob of negativity. I merely installed the #52792-2 (W203 wagon) rear springs to retain sufficient ride height while carrying a load. IIRC, you have a MDX as the family car. My C32 is her daily driver, as I drive a GMC for business. When we are on a road trip, it’s in the AMG. The Mrs. is okay with it, though. She has shared on occasion; “...it holds the road like a magnet...!”

That our cars now appear a bit more significant and purposeful is merely a pleasant side effect.

Good review.

May I ask how many miles on your stock shocks? I am about to put same springs on my car but wondering about shock life with 65K on the stock shocks. Also, what wheel/tire setup are you running?

hm..it seems like i'm the only one that hasn't lowered my c32 yet . Does anyone know what problems can occur after lowering? The last thing I want to do is pay money to lower my car so that I can pay more money to fix something because i lowered it. Thanks guys.

I have 44,000 miles on the car, so I figured my shocks were good for another 15K at least. If I was at 55K+ I would change them. The labor virtually overlaps so you will pay a lot less to do shocks while you do springs.

I spoke directly to H&R using your post and part numbers, and he seemed completely in the dark. With the original spacers, the rear would be too low, adversely affecting ride and appearance. Unfortunately, you buy springs as a set, and TireRack isn't going to sell you a mismatched set. I'll bet the wagon rear springs are a better choice.

Yea, this is what I am afraid of. At 65K I assume my shocks are on it's last legs and putting lowering springs on em will further the process. I definetly don't want to go through all the troubles again of replacing them 5K later. Maybe I should sell these springs and go for the cup kit or even coilovers... anyone interested in a brand new set of H&R lowering springs for C32?

YGPM!

Also sent you a message!

i put H&R springs on my car @ 86,000miles and i have had no issues at all...car now has 107,000miles...

For these MB pads, can you get these at something oempartsdirect or my dealer and they will know what I'm talking about, or is this an H&R part?...

Thanks for the write up!

Bif

MB dealer.

P/N for #2 pad is A2103250284

My local dealer had no problem finding the part on their system. It must be VERY easy because the same employee seems unable to locate the correct bulb for a brake light. The "shim" that I used was the #4. I don't have the paperwork with me, but if you ask for the #4 shim for the rear spring perch on a W203 C class sedan, they'll find it.

(PS: Two more days on the springs and I love them more every day. I feel much more connected to what the tires are doing. Anyone thinking about switching -- to ANY aftermarket spring -- do it. The lowered look is an added bonus.)

Thanks for the input. Wow, that's pretty impressive if your shocks are still good at 107K miles and 20 of it on lowering springs. Which leads into my question... How do you know when your shocks are worn? Also, what is the normal life span of our OEM shocks?

They are worn when you feel the car is not like it used to be when new! I tend to think shocks feel correct for about 50k miles then they need to be replaced. They normally are pretty soft by 100k and by 150k the car is a caddy!

I think a C32 on oem shocks and lowered springs is not ideal with new shocks let alone 100k mile old shocks but thats me! So clearly we all have different ideas on what is ok as far as shock valving.

i agree, i am not saying it is optimal, just not the end of the shocks life either...

i will eventually upgrade to something stiffer, probably some C55 shocks...

Not to , but I can't seem to find specific info on what exactly is needed to install springs on the front. I'll be installing H&R springs (thanks ultraman ). After reading these 'how-to' docs from the Maintenance DVD, I can definitely do the rears myself, but the fronts - well...they scare me! Unfortunately, I don't have access to a spring compressor and local shops are unwilling to loan one to me citing liability reasons (and they're probably right in my case!)

From the attached pdfs I made, can you guys confirm that there are several nuts that will have to be replaced?
Also, the DVD docs say that chassis alignment is not necessary unless in the case of accident repairs. Have all of you who lowered with springs got alignment done to be safe? I just want to make sure whatever shop who does them is going to do it right.
Thanks guys!

Few things in my experience are more compelling than having parts for the car which are not yet installed. They just sit there and taunt you…

The MacPherson strut front spring exchange is indeed a bit of a challenge without the correct tools. Okay, it’s impossible! The #203-589-00-07-00 strut nut tool is essential, unless you make your own. The requisite spring compressor is available at most rental yards.

Yes, the specified fasteners should be replaced. They are critical pieces. If you don’t replace them, then it is imperative that they be inspected, cleaned, and a thread-locking compound is applied. Many technicians don’t feel the need to do so. Being the ****-retentive idiot that I am, I purchased new fasteners. They are not expensive, but the peace of mind when getting after it is easily justified with the accounting department.

Had the alignment checked before and after my DIY installation. Because the front (and rear) of the W203 is not readily adjustable for castor and camber, those specifications were, not surprisingly, within specification. Gained more than a degree of negative camber in the rear which, while contributing to inner tread wear, improves adhesion at the limit. The front remained essentially unchanged, with only a slight decrease in toe. In addition, you will find the reduction in front toe aids turn-in and helps to reduce understeer. You may notice the chassis to be less stable during highway jaunts, and under heavy braking.

As with any recipe, one must adjust to taste. Do let us know how it goes, and please post some pics!

John

Here's my most recent H&R experience:

I had five people in the car for the first time yesterday. I pulled out of my parking spot and heard an awful metal grinding noise. The car was so low with five people that it was rubbing at all times. We had to take a different car.

Renntech springs are on order . . .

Was this with the #4 spring shims in back? I hope the RennTechs are better for you. I'm surprised that the higher spring rates do not compensate for the lower ride height. Are you on stock size wheels/tires?

I've had three adults + 2 kids (equivalent to 4 adults) and no rubbing.

I have #4s in the back. One of the three guys sitting in the back was pretty big, 250lbs+. They were stuffed back there, so I wasn't really surprised that it slammed the car down. There really shouldn't be that much weight in the back seat anyways. It was far from comfortable.

Regardless, I want the slightly taller Renntech springs. I was never happy with how the rear looks lower than the front with the H&Rs. I don't want to buy a coilover system either.

Why not?

$$.