How about a little discounted price for those who have anxiously followed this post in anticipation of the pully being released?

Looking forward to seeing the intake set up as well.

 

Brandon, not to sound stupid here, BUT what would a combination of the phenolic spacers, IAT EXCHANGER & the intake and pulley do for performance?? What Horsepower gains? Any ideas here??? I am new to this so be gentle

Also, anyone know of a good source for a used ML-55 supercharger??? i AM IN THE MARKET FOR ONE for the 2001 ML 55??

Glenn
Chicago IL

 

I would guess that a discounted price is out of the question since demand will be extremely high to start.

 

 

I can not wait. Looking forward to this

 

do you have any idea on what the boost level is with the new pulley?

 

Just a couple threads above this one is the answer

This is Brandons Comment:

"The pulley is making 16.88psi of boost in third gear. The Evosport pulley makes 15.5psi in third gear"

 

The silence is killiing me Brandon!! Where are they??? Send us a photo!!! I want one!!


Glenn

 

Sorry guys, some last minute tax return filing has been keeping me busy...

So, the shop has a piece for me to inspect and test. I couldn't make it down today though. I scheduled to meet with them tomorrow to pick up the piece. I will make sure all is well, get it on the dyno tomorrow night, and hopefully give it the thumbs up to finish the rest. I will have an assembled final piece in my hands tomorrow that I will post pictures of...The only difference will be the backplate is not coated, since they pulled it out to use for a test piece.

On a side note, we are going to be testing a little old school hp trick. Mercedes actually has a $70 part available that just might free up some ponies If it does, I will post a separate thread about it.

 

How about an update on the intake mod? We have not heard a thing about it lately.....

 

Mercedes has parts that cost less than $100 retail? This I gotta hear... lol.

 

Modified Thermostat?

 

[

On a side note, we are going to be testing a little old school hp trick. Mercedes actually has a $70 part available that just might free up some ponies If it does, I will post a separate thread about it.[/QUOTE]

Come on, there's lots of old school tricks. I thought thermostat too?? More air in tires, nah??? Thats doesnt add horsepower. Drill holes in airbox, nah, that doesnt cost $70.00. Hurry, the suspense is killing all of us, on both the pulleys and the old school tricks. Smokey Yunick tried to reverse the coolant flow, thats way old school, but I DONT THINK THATS WHERE you're headed. Plugs???? Nah, they just help ignition???


Glenn

 

Its the ol' AC Delete trick. The difference is, MB gave us a way to bypass the AC because of the way the belt is routed. They provide a short belt as a way to diagnose AC clutch noise issues. So you can run the short belt around the power steering pump (3), and straight to the crankshaft (1), while bypassing the AC completely. Its a tight fit, but it clears. Those that have tried this on other cars know its good for some power I figured, its worth a shot. We are going to put it on the dyno tomorrow, and try it out.

The $70 is for the belt. Its actually more expensive than the stock length belt, go figure...

 

lol...no AC for winter = power...seems kinda ghetto tho...

 

doesn't hitting the AC off button do pretty much the same thing?

 

Because its a Mercedes and not a Mustang? I would say the guys that have lowered their 1/4 times and raised their trap speed would disagree

Is it still ghetto if it makes power?

I rarely turn the AC on, even when its real hot. Turning the AC off is not the same thing. By using the shorter belt, you are eliminating drag by bypassing the compressor altogether. If we had to add a regular pulley to make it work, then yes, it would be the same thing. The only point then is that you could remove the AC to save weight. But this is different.

 

Looking at the belt route it doesn't look like the bypass would work with a larger crank pulley. But would with a S/C pulley. Will be interesting to see what the a/c is pulling though.

 

A logical question, but... no.

If you turn the AC off, you still have the belt turning the pulley with the clutch off.

Because the AC compressor is in our systems whereby it creates an 'apex' due to its location, it robs the system of power due to friction when the AC is in the 'off' position.
So.. if one wanted to be nit-picky and scrounge around for every ounce of power, you could probably work on all the pulleys making them less of a drain on the system. (a la AMS).

That said - for the sake of a 10 minute belt change, this is a pretty cool strategy and such a quick method to possibly pick up a few hp. It'll be interesting to see dyno / datalogging numbers on this.

 

Wrong belt came in...That little experiment will have to wait till next week. OH well, at least we are getting a production pulley today

 

Brandon, if clearance becomes an issue, can you just make the AC pulley smaller or modify it in some small way to clear??? The old trick we used was to remove all belts before the drags since some fans ran right off the engine and thus there were no parasitic losses for the AC nor the alternator. Basically ran it without belts and this can be done (if not cooling related). Although its ***** putting an belt back onto a hot engine for the ride home.




Glenn

 

Are we getting a "production" picture today?? I just have to see this, as well as the rest of the crew!!

 

Jeebus, that supercharger noise is ....... weird?

I'm assuming that the speed runs were done with a lower gear pre-selected. I did not hear any downshifts (and I'm damn sure I would have heard them!).

 

OH well, at least we are getting a production pulley today [/QUOTE]


AND???? .................................................. ...........................

Impatient and Inquiring Minds want to know???

 

When the pulley is ready to go:

(1) Take a BONE STOCK C32 to a drag strip with professional timing devices. Stock filters, stock ECU, street tires, stock everything. Permissible mods: NONE.

(2) Do 0-60, 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile runs. Do at least three and average them. No brake rev, no tricks. Just mash the pedal and go straight.

(3) Drive to a safe place and execute the 15 minute install of the pulley.

(4) Proceed immediately (16th minute) to the starting line at the same track with the same driver and repeat "(2)" above exactly.

(5) Post the results.

I do not care about dyno numbers, or boost levels. I don't care what the final 0-60, 1/8 or 14 times are. I care about how much FASTER the car gets solely as a result of the new pulley wheel.

If you want glory-times with brake revs and open intake and drag slicks, do that AFTER this test.

Show me some numbers and some of my money is yours.