A turning point in Mercedes tuning...Performance Supercharger Pulley

Also, anyone know of a good source for a used ML-55 supercharger??? i AM IN THE MARKET FOR ONE for the 2001 ML 55??
Glenn
Chicago IL
Glenn
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
So, the shop has a piece for me to inspect and test. I couldn't make it down today though. I scheduled to meet with them tomorrow to pick up the piece. I will make sure all is well, get it on the dyno tomorrow night, and hopefully give it the thumbs up to finish the rest. I will have an assembled final piece in my hands tomorrow that I will post pictures of...The only difference will be the backplate is not coated, since they pulled it out to use for a test piece.
On a side note, we are going to be testing a little old school hp trick. Mercedes actually has a $70 part available that just might free up some ponies
If it does, I will post a separate thread about it.
On a side note, we are going to be testing a little old school hp trick. Mercedes actually has a $70 part available that just might free up some ponies
If it does, I will post a separate thread about it.[/QUOTE]Come on, there's lots of old school tricks. I thought thermostat too?? More air in tires, nah??? Thats doesnt add horsepower. Drill holes in airbox, nah, that doesnt cost $70.00. Hurry, the suspense is killing all of us, on both the pulleys and the old school tricks. Smokey Yunick tried to reverse the coolant flow, thats way old school, but I DONT THINK THATS WHERE you're headed. Plugs???? Nah, they just help ignition???
Glenn
I figured, its worth a shot. We are going to put it on the dyno tomorrow, and try it out.The $70 is for the belt. Its actually more expensive than the stock length belt, go figure...


Is it still ghetto if it makes power?
I rarely turn the AC on, even when its real hot. Turning the AC off is not the same thing. By using the shorter belt, you are eliminating drag by bypassing the compressor altogether. If we had to add a regular pulley to make it work, then yes, it would be the same thing. The only point then is that you could remove the AC to save weight. But this is different.
If you turn the AC off, you still have the belt turning the pulley with the clutch off.
Because the AC compressor is in our systems whereby it creates an 'apex' due to its location, it robs the system of power due to friction when the AC is in the 'off' position.
So.. if one wanted to be nit-picky and scrounge around for every ounce of power, you could probably work on all the pulleys making them less of a drain on the system. (a la AMS).
That said - for the sake of a 10 minute belt change, this is a pretty cool strategy and such a quick method to possibly pick up a few hp. It'll be interesting to see dyno / datalogging numbers on this.
I figured, its worth a shot. We are going to put it on the dyno tomorrow, and try it out.The $70 is for the belt. Its actually more expensive than the stock length belt, go figure...


Brandon, if clearance becomes an issue, can you just make the AC pulley smaller or modify it in some small way to clear??? The old trick we used was to remove all belts before the drags since some fans ran right off the engine and thus there were no parasitic losses for the AC nor the alternator. Basically ran it without belts and this can be done (if not cooling related). Although its ***** putting an belt back onto a hot engine for the ride home.
Glenn
I'm assuming that the speed runs were done with a lower gear pre-selected. I did not hear any downshifts (and I'm damn sure I would have heard them!).
[/QUOTE]AND???? .................................................. ...........................
Impatient and Inquiring Minds want to know???
(1) Take a BONE STOCK C32 to a drag strip with professional timing devices. Stock filters, stock ECU, street tires, stock everything. Permissible mods: NONE.
(2) Do 0-60, 1/8 mile and 1/4 mile runs. Do at least three and average them. No brake rev, no tricks. Just mash the pedal and go straight.
(3) Drive to a safe place and execute the 15 minute install of the pulley.
(4) Proceed immediately (16th minute) to the starting line at the same track with the same driver and repeat "(2)" above exactly.
(5) Post the results.
I do not care about dyno numbers, or boost levels. I don't care what the final 0-60, 1/8 or 14 times are. I care about how much FASTER the car gets solely as a result of the new pulley wheel.
If you want glory-times with brake revs and open intake and drag slicks, do that AFTER this test.
Show me some numbers and some of my money is yours.
Last edited by Fifth Ring; Apr 17, 2008 at 02:20 PM.









